纺织学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 46 ›› Issue (03): 49-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240100201

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱及其织物的力学性能

江文杰, 郭明瑞, 高卫东()   

  1. 江南大学 纺织科学与工程学院, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2024-01-02 修回日期:2024-04-09 出版日期:2025-03-15 发布日期:2025-04-16
  • 通讯作者: 高卫东(1959—),男,教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织技术。E-mail: gaowd@163.com
  • 作者简介:江文杰(1996—),男,博士生。主要研究方向为纺纱技术。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(52003105)

Mechanical properties of cotton/polyester staple sheath-core yarns and its corresponding fabrics

JIANG Wenjie, GUO Mingrui, GAO Weidong()   

  1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2024-01-02 Revised:2024-04-09 Published:2025-03-15 Online:2025-04-16

摘要: 为弥补纯棉牛仔纱线性能缺陷,通过开发棉/涤纶皮芯结构短纤纱来保持纯棉纱的触感,并提高纱线性能。为此,提出了一种新型短纤皮芯纱的纺纱方法,通过改进环锭细纱机牵伸机构,实现2根纤维束在前罗拉钳口异速输出,在纺纱张力和加捻作用下,快速纤维束以螺旋线状包缠在慢速纤维束表面,从而形成皮芯结构。重点研究了纱线捻度与皮芯比例对棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱及其织物的拉伸性能和耐磨性能的影响。结果表明:棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱及其织物的拉伸性能均好于纯棉环锭纱及其织物,并在捻度为520、皮芯比为65∶35时取得最大断裂强度和断裂伸长率;纯棉环锭纱的耐磨性能优于棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱。以捻度为430为例,纯棉的耐磨次数分别比皮芯比为75∶25、70∶30和65∶35的棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱高43.1%、38.6%和23.1%。在捻度为430时,织物的强度损失率最小,纯棉织物的强度损失率分别比皮芯比为75∶25、70∶30和65∶35的棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱所织成织物的强度损失率高291.1%、259.8%和400.5%。

关键词: 新型纺纱技术, 棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱, 同轴异径前罗拉, 皮芯比, 拉伸性能, 耐磨性能, 纬编针织物

Abstract:

Objective In order to give full play to the performance advantages of composite staple yarn, a new method of spinning staple sheath-core yarn based on ring spinning machine was developed. Meanwhile, tensile properties and abrasion resistance are important evaluation indicators of textiles, which are directly related to production efficiency and product quality. Therefore, the tensile properties and abrasion resistance of pure cotton ring-spun yarns and cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarns and their corresponding fabrics were also compared.

Method The conventional front roller was replaced with the coaxial front roller of different diameters. The two fiber bundles were simultaneously fed into the back roller. After drafting, they were output with different speeds at the front roller nip. Under the action of spinning tension, the slow fiber bundle was output perpendicular to the front roller nip, while the fast fiber bundle was output from the front roller nip at a certain inclination angle and converged with the slow fiber bundle at the twisting point. As the twist was transferred to the spinning triangle, the slow fiber bundle was twisted around its axis, while the fast fiber bundle was spirally wrapped around the outside of the slow fiber bundle, thus forming staple sheath-core yarn.

Results The breaking strength and breaking elongation of the cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarn are better than those of the ring-spun cotton yarn. And as the core proportion increases, the breaking strength and breaking elongation of the staple sheath-core yarn increase. This is because the tensile properties of polyester fiber are better than those of cotton fiber. As the core proportion increases, the polyester fiber content increases, so the tensile properties of the sheath-core yarn are improved. The tensile properties of staple fiber sheath-core yarn and ring-spun cotton yarn improve as the twist increases. Meanwhile, the abrasion resistance of ring-spun cotton yarn is better than that of cotton-polyester sheath-core yarn. The reason is that internal and external transfer exist between the fibers of ring-spun cotton yarn, and the binding force between fibers is strong and difficult to be extracted. While, the sheath-core yarn has an obvious layered structure, and the cohesive force between the core layer and the sheath layer is insufficient, making the fibers easier to peel off. Therefore, the abrasion resistance of cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarn is worse than that of ring-spun cotton yarn. Similar to the law of yarn tensile properties, the tensile properties of knitted fabrics woven from polyester-cotton staple sheath-core yarns are superior to than those woven from ring-spun cotton yarns. This is because the fiber strength determines the tensile properties of the yarn, which in turn affects the tensile properties of the fabric. Therefore, an increase in the polyester fiber content is beneficial to improving the tensile breaking strength and breaking elongation of the knitted fabric. The strength loss proportion of the knitted fabric woven form ring-spun cotton yarn is much greater than that woven from sheath-core yarn fabric. This is because the strength of the sheath-core yarn is mainly provided by the core layer. During friction, the core layer is covered by the sheath layer and suffers little friction, resulting in less strength loss of the sheath-core yarn. Therefore, the strength loss proportion of the knitted fabric woven from staple sheath-core yarn is much smaller than that woven from ring-spun cotton yarn.

Conclusion A new method of spinning staple sheath-core yarn based on ring spinning machine was developed. the two fiber bundles were output at different speeds at the nip of the front roller by modifying the front roller on the ring spinning machine. Under the action of spinning tension and twisting, the slow fiber bundle was covered by the fast fiber bundle, forming a sheath-core structure. This method has the advantages of high spinning efficiency and good yarn spun properties. In addition, the tensile properties and abrasion resistance of ring-spun cotton yarn and cotton-polyester sheath-core staple fiber yarn were compared. The results show that the tensile properties of cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarn were better than those of ring-spun cotton yarn; However, the abrasion resistance of cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarn is worse than that of ring-spun cotton yarn; and the tensile properties of knitted fabric woven from cotton-polyester staple sheath-core yarn were better than that woven from ring-spun cotton yarn.

Key words: new spinning technology, cotton/polyester staple sheath-core yarn, coaxial front roller of different diameters, sheath-core proportion, tensile property, abrasion resistance property, weft-knitted fabric

中图分类号: 

  • TS104.1

图1

纺纱装置示意图"

图2

短纤皮芯纱展开图"

表1

纺纱实验方案"

纱线类型 皮芯比 粗纱定量/
(g·(10 m)-1)
捻度/(捻·m-1)
皮层 芯层
棉/涤纶短纤
皮芯纱
75∶25 12.3 3.8 430/460/490/520
70∶30 9.6 3.8
65∶35 7.6 3.8
纯棉环锭纱 / 9.6

图3

针织物试样尺寸图"

图4

威士伯织物耐磨仪外观图"

图5

棉纱与不同皮芯比下的棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱拉伸性能对比"

图6

棉纱与不同皮芯比下的棉/涤纶短纤皮芯纱耐磨性能对比"

图7

织物拉伸性能对比"

图8

织物强力损失率对比"

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