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Table of Content

    15 January 2011, Volume 32 Issue 1
    • 纤维材料
      Crystallinity and orientation of PGLA fiber during drawing
      LI Jian;HUANG Qing;LI Xin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (137KB) ( 466 )   Save
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      For better control of mechanical properties and degradation characteristics of poly(glycolide-co-L-lactide) (PGLA) fiber,the influences of drawing on the crystallinity and orientation of PGLA fiber were studied. It was found that as the drawing condition changes, the crystallinity of PGLA fiber presents a section-based linear transformation rule markedly. The strain-induced crystallization dominates the crystal formation during fiber drawing. Under the experimental conditions, kinetics varies with stages during crystallization process. Owing to the fact that there is positive correlation between the amorphous orientation function and the crystallinity and considering the peaks of cold crystallization vary with drawing conditions, as shown by DSC, it is suggested that the crystallizing mechanism of PGLA fiber during drawing is strain-induced crystallization.

      Effect of spinning conditions on structures and properties of bamboo fibers with Lyocell process
      YANG Gesheng;SHAO Huili;HU Xuechao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 1067 )   PDF (330KB) ( 546 )   Save
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      Bamboo fibers were prepared using bamboo pulp as raw material by Lyocell process at different spinning conditions, their supermolecular structures and mechanical properties were examined by wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD) and polarizing optical microscopy ( POM), and strength elongation tester. The results indicated that spinning conditions played an important role in determining the structure and properties of bamboo fibers with Lyocell process. The crystallinity and orientation of bamboo fibers increased as draw down ratio increased, leading to the increase of the tensile strength and initial modulus whereas the fineness and elongation at breaking decreased. Furthermore, with the increase of spinning speed at a constant draw down ratio, although the crystal orientation had no obviously change, the amorphous orientation and the crystallinity increased. As a result, the tensile strength and initial modulus increased while the elongation at breaking decreased.

      Effect of heat treatment on microstructure and mechanical properties of bamboo viscose fibers
      YANG Xuhong;GU Junjing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 1196 )   PDF (316KB) ( 420 )   Save
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      Relaxed heat treatment of bamboo viscose fiber was carried out, and the influence of treatment time and temperature on he crystalline structure, whiteness and mechanical properties of the fiber was investigated and compared with the common viscose fiber. The results showed that the crystallinity of bamboo viscose fiber decreases after relaxed heat treatment under different temperatures. At the temperature of 180℃, its crystallinity decreases obviously with the increase of heating time. Heat treatment brings greater damage to the crystal structure of bamboo viscose fiber than to common viscose fiber, as shown in greater decrease in tensile strength, breaking elongation and specific work of rupture. It is indicates that the heat resistance of bamboo viscose fiber is worse than that of common viscose fiber.

      Absorption and release of zinc ions by alginate fibers
      Qin Yimin;CHEN Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  16-19. 
      Abstract ( 1052 )   PDF (129KB) ( 514 )   Save
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      With a view to better understanding the absorption and release of zinc ions by alginate fibers, this paper prepared pure zinc alginate fibers by a wet spinning process and prepared alginic acid fibers by treating calcium alginate fibers with hydrochloric acid. The absorption of zinc ions by alginic acid fibers was studied under different times, temperatures and zinc ion concentrations. Results showed that by controlling the weight ratio between alginate fiber and zinc sulphate, it is possible to prepare alginate fibers containing different amount of zinc ions. This paper used saline and aqueous solutions with different protein contents to treat zinc alginate fibers and test the zinc ion concentration in the contact solution. Results showed that the amount of zinc ion released is higher at low temperature than at high temperature, with the protein in the solution accelerating the release of zinc ions.

      染整与化学品
      Synthesis and characterization of a new liquid crystal polymer
      TAO Xuchen;LI Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  20-24. 
      Abstract ( 1093 )   PDF (535KB) ( 510 )   Save
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      Two liquid crystal monomers were synthesized: acrylic isosorbide diester and 4- (acrylic ethoxy ester) benzoic acid cholesterol ester. Their structures were identified by IR, 1HNMR and elemental analysis. Hexafluorobutyl acrylate was introduced to the liquid crystal polymer by radical polymerization, and liquid crystal polymer 4- (acrylic ethoxy ester) benzoic acid cholesterol ester with fluoride side chain was synthesized. Its molecular structure was characterized using IR, 1HNMR, 19FNMR and the texture was studied by DSC and POM. The results show that this liquid crystal has low glass-transition temperature,low clearing point, small phase transformation interval, and its glass-transition temperature increased slightly as the ratio of hexafluorobutyl acrylate increased.

      纺织工程
      Design improvement of traditional brocade based on digital technology
      KANG Meirong;ZHOU Jiu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  25-28. 
      Abstract ( 912 )   PDF (941KB) ( 355 )   Save
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      The basic feature and technical limitations of brocades with traditional triple weft structure were analyzed. The improved design principle and method for brocades with triple weft structure was proposed based on digital technology. Digital weave databases were developed using a layered design method. The effect of covering each other in the case of triple weft structure could be realized by flexible use of the databases of various layers. The practicability and effect of brocade based on innovative design is proved by digital jacquard design examples. The application of digital design technology to Chinese brocade made color expression ability and design efficiency enhanced, along with removal of above mentioned technical limitations.

      Fabric image mosaic based on cellular automata
      LIU Suyi;XIA Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  29-33. 
      Abstract ( 929 )   PDF (611KB) ( 402 )   Save
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      Owing to the fact that fabric images exhibit strong periodic and their features are difficult to extract, it is suggested to use cellular automaton to take the cellular space as a two-dimensional one, and the mosaic of image pixels and cellular is performed one-to-one correspondingly. It completes the feature extraction and edge detection through the establishment of cellular automata model and cellular transfer equation. According to the pre-calibration of the camera, it determines overlapping parts of two images, and then searches the maximum similarity in pixel values of the overlapping parts of the two images and conducts iterative search on the principle of maximum correlated factor to get the optimal stitching point. By eliminating apertures generated from mosaicking, image mosaicking is finished and a complete image is gotten. It is shown by verification that using cellular automata can achieve fabric image mosaicking effectively.

      Moisture management ability of waterproof breathable fabrics
      Wu Haiyan;ZHANG Yun;XIE Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  34-40. 
      Abstract ( 1120 )   PDF (155KB) ( 708 )   Save
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      The moisture transfer principles of CoolMax fabric, TPU coated fabric, and TPU film laminated fabric were tested using the moisture management tester ( MMT ) in terms of wetting time of inside and outside surfaces of the fabrics, absorption rate, maximum wetted radius, moisture transfer speed, one way moisture transfer ability, and overall moisture management ability etc. The results indicated that TPU coated woven polyamide fabric showed relatively lower moisture permeability and moisture spreading ability, but its inside surface exhibited better water-proofing power. TUP coated twill woven polyamide fabric had better moisture permeability than its plain fabric. In addition, the impact of different surface treatments on the moisture management ability of fabrics is obvious. Applications and modified way of the above fabrics were discussed as well.

      Numerical simulation of dynamic performance of three-dimensional braided composites
      LIAN jun;GU Bohong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  41-45. 
      Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (445KB) ( 563 )   Save
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      The paper discussed the simulation of the impact on three-dimensional braided composites in terms of the principle, method and steps of solution of the related explicit formulation. Geometric model of three-dimensional braided fabric and resin was built, taking into consideration the nonlinear relationship between fiber and resin and betweent project, fiber, and resin. The residual velocity of the project obtained by simulative computation is basically in agreement with the actual speed got by testing. Accordingly, energy absorbing mechanism of the 3-D braided composites was gained, along with displacement of projectile and contact force. Destructive feature of the target when hit by the project was simulated, and it offered reference for the design of protective material against light impact.

      Mechanical properties of bi-axial warp knitted glass fiberboard under transverse impact
      WAN Guangjian;LU Lihua;YU Yongling;ZHAO Yuping;WEI Chunyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  46-50. 
      Abstract ( 1271 )   PDF (733KB) ( 454 )   Save
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      MTS testing machine and Hopkinson pressure bar were used to test the mechanical properties of reinforced composites with bi-axial warp knitted glass fiber fabric and unsaturated polyester resin under transverse impact. The load-displacement curves, failure modes and energy absorption-displacement curves under quasi-static transverse load and dynamic transverse impact were obtained. The results showed that the entire quasi-static transverse loading process can be divided into two stages, namely the rise and fall phase stages, and the deformation of samples was the overall structure response under quasi-static transverse load. At the same time, the displacement and load increased with the increase of impact velocity under dynamic transverse impact, but the displacement has "hysteresis" phenomenon. During the dynamic transverse impact process, stress wave transmitted very quickly and the samples showed partial destruction and stratified.

      Optimizing technological parameters of manufacturing meltblown nonwovens by BP neural networks
      WU Xionghua;LIU Ya;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  51-54. 
      Abstract ( 996 )   PDF (116KB) ( 373 )   Save
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      In order to get the optimal technological parameters of manufacturing meltblown nonwovens, the BP neural networks prediction model was established by using the first four data of every group as training input and output vectors in the experiment, while others as testing vectors to check the model. The results showed that the relative errors were less than 9% when the BP neural networks model was applied to predict the average values of filtration efficiency and permeability, and the correlation coefficients were both close to 1. It showed that the fitting effect of the BP networks model was very ideal. On this basis, the optimal technological parameters were obtained by computer simulation, that is, temperature, 218 ℃; DCD, 18 cm, and surface density of 469 g/m2. Under these conditions, the filtration efficiency reached 94% and the air permeability was above 400 L/(m2•s) .

      染整与化学品
      Biological enzyme applied to extraction of mulberry fiber
      JIN Penghui;FENG Qinhua;JIANG YaoYaoxing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  55-58. 
      Abstract ( 1021 )   PDF (128KB) ( 427 )   Save
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      Bio-degumming of mulberry fiber was performed with bioenzyme KDN-T01F, and the factors affecting degumming were investigated, using the amount of residual gum as the index of the result of degumming. Single-factor analysis was adopted to find out the parameters range during degumming, and then orthogonal experiment was used to determine the optimal parameters for bio-degumming, that is, the temperature is 53℃, the concentration of bioenzyme solution is 14g/L, pH =9, liquor ratio is 1:30 and treating time is 12h. Under these conditions, the amount of residual gum reduced from 68.04% to 30.36%. After bio-degumming followed by chemical degumming,the amount of residual gum is as low as 3.88%. This indicates that bioenzyme - chemical degumming method is good for extraction of mulberry fiber.

      Bleaching technology of grey down
      ZHUO Lan;TANG Liqiap;YU Hangfang;SHAO Jianzhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  59-66. 
      Abstract ( 1317 )   PDF (646KB) ( 465 )   Save
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      To solve the bleaching problem of grey down, the selective bleaching process was applied. Based on the studies of pretreatment (metal complex), cleaning and bleaching, the factors affecting whiteness and bulkiness in each procedure were investigated and the bleaching parameters were optimized. After combination treatment of selective oxidation bleaching and reduction bleaching, the whiteness of grey down fibers increased from 29% to 68%, while keeping their good bulkiness. SEM and FT-IR analysis indicated that the treatment had little influence on the physical structure of grey down, though it led to some changes in the chemical structure on the surface of the fibers, mainly the oxidation of disulfide bond of cystine. The optimized bleaching technology had excellent bleaching effect which solved the contradictions between whiteness and tendering in the bleaching of grey down, and showed energy saving and consumption reduction.

      Dyeing mechanism of disperse dye on bi-component sheath-core fiber with low melting point
      DING Feifei;WANG Lan;LIN Junxiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  67-72. 
      Abstract ( 1478 )   PDF (165KB) ( 413 )   Save
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      The paper took bi-component sheath-core fiber with low melting point as the main research object. Two typical disperse dyes such as Disperse Red SE-GFL( azo ) and Disperse Blue 2BLN(anthraquinone) were used to dye the fiber. The dyeing kinetics and dyeing thermodynamics of disperse dye on the bi-component sheath-core fiber with low melting point were studied as well. The results showed that the type of adsorption isotherm of disperse dye on bi-component sheath-core fiber with low melting point was the same as that on conventional polyester fiber, both of which are conforming with Nernst distribution mechanism. Compared with dyeing with disperse dye on the conventional polyester fiber, dyeing with disperse dye on the bi-component sheath-core fiber has some features, i.e. the dyeing rate increases greatly, half-dyeing time decreases, diffusion coefficient and dyeing affinity enhance, dyeing heat and dyeing entropy reduce.

      Effects of salt spray on light fastness of dyed fabrics
      WANG Shugen;BO Tianming;SHI Meiwu;WU Yibang;SHAN Shiguang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  73-77. 
      Abstract ( 973 )   PDF (480KB) ( 345 )   Save
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      For searching the cause that leads to somewhat lower light fastness of dyed fabrics in coastal areas, the accelerated neutral salt spray test and acidy salt spray test were used to simulate a marine environment, and the accelerated exposure to sunlight experiment of dyed fabrics was performed, and the light fastness of the fabrics was tested and compared with the control samples, investigating effects of the marine environment on light fastness of dyed fabrics. The experimental results revealed that the salt spray had little influence on the shade of the dyes. However, it was observed that the light fastness of dyes with different structures was not alike in salt spray environment. Under the salt spray environment, the light fastness of the anthraquinone dyes was much lower than that under the normal atmospheric environment. But the salt spray test had less influence on the light fastness of azo dyes.

      Effect of benzoic alcohol on dyeing properties of microfibre synthetic leather
      BAI Gang;LIU Yanchun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  78-81. 
      Abstract ( 1062 )   PDF (602KB) ( 619 )   Save
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      It is difficult to produce dark shades for microfibre synthetic leather. For this reason, benzoic alcohol was used to improve the dyeing properties of microfibre synthetic leather. The effect of benzoic alcohol on the dye uptake, color strength and washing fastness was investigated. The assisted dyeing mechanism of benzoic alcohol was examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The results indicated that with addition of benzoic alcohol the rate of dye uptake increased, half-dyeing time reduced, equilibrium dye uptake percentage improved drastically, and fastness to soaping of the dyed fabrics was not affected. SEM image showed that there was a dye layer on the microfibre surface. DSC measurement showed that the glass transition temperature of the sample reduced because of benzoic alcohol treatment. Benzoic alcohol has a plasticization to the fiber and solublization to the dyestuffs, thus facilitating the diffusion of dye molecules into the microfibre.

      Promoting effect of keratinase in wool anti-felting finishing with protease
      ZHOU Wen;JI Huijin;WANG Qiang;WANG Ping;FAN Xuerong;CAI Chenggang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  82-88. 
      Abstract ( 1387 )   PDF (913KB) ( 480 )   Save
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      A novel keratinase from Bacillus subtilis and protease were used to treat wool in one-bath method, and the change in felting shrinkage, weight loss, strength, wettability, and fibre diameter of the treated wool fabric was tested, along with polypeptide release rate in the hydrolyte solution of enzyme-treated wool and keratin of wool. Combining with wool bromine Allwörden phenomenon, SEM was use to investigate the degradation effect of protein, wool anti-felting property and the removal of wool scales affected by synergistic effect of the two enzymes. Compared with specimens only treated by keratinase or protease, the felting shrinkage of wool fabric treated by keratinase and protease in one-bath dropped significantly, and reached machine washable requirements, but the fabric weight loss was larger, strength reduced, and fibre diameter decreased. UV spectrum of the hydrolyte solution showed that one- bath process could effectively improve the polypeptide release rate, and protease had no obvious effect on the structural stability of keratinase. Wool bromine Allwörden phenomena and wettability test results showed that the lipid above scales had been basically removed. The result of SEM showed wool scales had basically been stripped. All of these results showed that keratinase could promote protease to degrade wool scales, and the synergistic effect of the two enzymes was able to remove wool scales effectively.

      Determination of harmful disperse dyes in textiles by small sized column liquid Chromatography-photodiode array-mass spectrometry
      DING Youchao;CAO Xizhong;CAI Jianhe;ZHOU Jia;QIAN Kai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  89-95. 
      Abstract ( 2037 )   PDF (381KB) ( 574 )   Save
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      A rapid method was developed to simultaneously determine the 22 harmful disperse dyes in textiles, using liquid chromatography-photodiode array-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-PDA-MS/MS). The chlorobenzene vapor reflux extraction method investigated in this paper obtained 2.3~11 times extraction efficiency higher than the ultrasound-assisted methanol extraction method, and the applied of 1.8 µm -column liquid chromatography shortened two thirds of analytical time comparing with the traditional 5µm packed column, and the detection sensitivities were at least increased by 4 times. Furthermore, the ill-defined substance of disperse blue 35(b) in DIN 54231 was identified as dye of disperse blue 26 by electrospray tandem mass spectrometry. The method was evaluated with low quantification limits of 0.8~5 mg/kg for 22 disperse dyes, acceptable recovery of 86.4% - 98.7% and good precision of RSD less than 10%. The harmful disperse dyes, with disperse yellow 23 and orange 37/76 of more frequent, were detected in apparel fabric, lining and some textile accesories such as sewing thread and zip fabric.

      服装工程
      Research on relationship between sleeve height and slanting angle of sleeve midline of raglan sleeve
      YAO Yi;XU Zhengliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  96-99. 
      Abstract ( 1445 )   PDF (492KB) ( 816 )   Save
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      The relationship between sleeve height and slanting angle of sleeve midline of raglan sleeve is the key for designing raglan sleeve. Thus, we adopted 1:1 pattern design based on prototype and made clothing. The empirical regression equation for the sleeve height and slanting angle of sleeve midline of raglan sleeve based on the prototype was obtained, and there is a good linear correlation between them. On this basis, the empirical regression equation was verified and forecasted by making clothing. We also got the calculation formula for the sleeve height and slanting angle of sleeve midline of raglan sleeve under normal circumstances by further mathematical deduction. Analysis shows that the linear regression equation for the sleeve height and slanting angle of sleeve midline of raglan sleeve provides a theoretical basis for improving accuracy of pattern design and computer designing.

      Key points of investigation for forecasting fashion color
      LI Jianzhong;ZHANG Hao;YANG Peiyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  100-104. 
      Abstract ( 1136 )   PDF (119KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      Investigation is the basis for forecasting fashion color and is an important part of its composition, whose key lies in clear points of investigation. Having studied the release of fashion color in terms of the composition, rules of occurring and development, it points out that for fashion color forecasting there are two aspects needed to be investigated, that is, social culture and social color. The former affects public psychology on color requirement, which is the foundation of the theme of fashion color. The related key points of investigation are social developing trend and technology. The latter governs the specific form of fashion color, and the related key points of investigation involve the individuality, color of fashion, the color of new products on fashion exhibition, the color used wrong by brand-apparel and the color of special style garments.

      Study on pressure at top part of man’s socks using finite element method
      DAN Rui;FAN Xuerong;CHEN Dongsheng;WANG Qiang;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  105-110. 
      Abstract ( 1069 )   PDF (537KB) ( 424 )   Save
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      The key for optimal designing of a garment lies in understanding the pressure which has been brought about by the garment on the human body. 3-D body scanning instrument is used to scan the morphology of the inside part of the leg 6cm above the ankle, and the relationship between the pressure brought about on the leg by the top of socks and the displacement is investigated using finite element method. In this study, the human body is regarded as an elastomer and the contact between the lower leg and the top part of socks is elastic contact. After using finite element analysis and fitting curves, the pressure-displacement quadratic equation can be obtained. Meanwhile, we divide the lower leg cross section into four equal regions according to the angle, and the area shrinkage of each region under pressure can be calculated. And finally, we analyze the relationship between factors that affect pressure levels, and then obtain a function formula between pressure and impact factors by principal component analysis.

      Research of menswear design based on chain-cycling mode
      XIA Fan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  111-118. 
      Abstract ( 876 )   PDF (404KB) ( 394 )   Save
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      Aiming at menswear design efficiency,we classify and extract the elements concerning menswear design based on hypercycling, dissipative and coordinative theories and considering contemporary society and life concept of the male as well as the features of menswear design. According to the design process, interdependence and causation relation, its core elements are identified. Then their features are analyzed and interaction and conversion are explored, and in so doing, their changing rules are found out. The working mode and principle of chain cycling are discussed, and a complete set of menswear design pattern based on chain cycling mode is developed. The experimental results proved that this design method is feasible and effective. The findings can be used as reference for preparing development strategy for menswear manufacturer, and as tactical plans, they can quickly provide solutions to problems occurred in the designing.

      机械与器材
      Simulation and analysis of warp tension based on virtual prototyping
      QIU Haifei;WANG Yixuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  119-123. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (357KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      The reasons that cause warp tension are analyzed. The virtual prototype model for warp tension is set up in SolidWorks software. The plain woven fabric is made as object to study, the dynamic simulation and analysis of the stretch tension, vertical tension and horizontal tension of the warp are carried out in COSMOSMotion. Then the law of the warp tension varies during weaving is acquired, and the methods of decomposition and computation of warp tension in dynamic and changing process are put forward. In order to offer a foundation for shedding design, the maximum of warp tension is studied and its distribution characteristic and changing law are obtained by statistical analysis,then analytical comparison between the simulated results and the values measured is made.

      Installation innovation of guide bar on spinning frame
      ZHOU Suolin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  124-128. 
      Abstract ( 1327 )   PDF (386KB) ( 521 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the influence of yarn guide bar on unwinding tension of roving as a function of its installation so as to reduce the unexpected drafting on roving while unwinding and spinning, the roving unwinding tensions were tested when varying the guide bar installation parameters such as the height of installation position, the gap between guide bar and roving, guide bar diameter, types of rotation of the bar, etc. The results demonstrated that the parameters have remarkable influence on unwinding tensions of roving. The optimum guide bar installation parameters were obtained as follows: the height of installation position should be at 1/3 above the bottom of roving bobbin or flush with the bottom, the gap between guide bar and roving as large as possible, the guide bar diameter as fine as possible provided that it can bear the unwinding tension of roving, and transforming the guide bar from fixed type into rotating type makes the fraction between roving and guide bar change from curved surface friction to rolling friction.

      Flow field modeling and eddy current field simulation research of overflow dyeing machine round nozzle
      ZE Xiangbo;ZHANG Chaoyang;YANG Xuefeng;REN Quanyuan;NIE Jingliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  129-134. 
      Abstract ( 1274 )   PDF (884KB) ( 417 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of the gas-liquid two-phase flow characteristics on fabric dyeing inside the nozzle, a computational fluid dynamics mathematical model has been developed to simulate liquid flow characteristics and liquid flow effect on gas on 3-D basis, then according to the simulated results, dynamic and static pressure changes and the velocity and pressure field distribution were analyzed in the nozzle. Study results showed that the rapid movement of liquid phase causes the dynamic pulse of gas, which make subatmospheric pressure generate in the nozzle. The speed of liquid becomes larger and the pressure change more greatly, the tortuous flow phenomenon is marked in the nozzle pipe. According to the related thermodynamics theory and simulation analysis results, the gas sources and power sources of the "tambour" phenomenon and the fabric tangle phenomenon often occurred in the actual production process are ascertained, and then improvement blue print of the nozzle is presented.

      管理与信息化
      Strategy for apparel supply chain coordination based on fashion cycles
      ZHOU Jianheng;SHU Ling;XU Qi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  135-139. 
      Abstract ( 967 )   PDF (303KB) ( 522 )   Save
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      It is commonly understood that the demand for apparel varies with the market. This character which affects the decision-making of the supply chain participants is analyzed. Having different competitive power, price negotiating ability, information channels and organizations, retailers’ risk preference also varies with product life cycles. This paper introduced the concept of fashion index and established a factor-based risk avoiding model. Through analyzing the expected utility function in both centralized and distributed modes, the optimal buy-back strategy is figured. Simulation of actual examples verified that in different fashion cycles retailers’ risk avoiding factor increases with the decrease of fashion index. In order to achieve the perfect coordination of the supply chain, suppliers’ buy-back price should also increase accordingly to encourage retailers. This study indicates that considering the fashion index will better display the market expectation of the members in different periods of the fashion cycle, thus obtaining optimal coordination parameters and maximizing the profits of the supply chain.

      Computer-aided design for warp-knitted seamless tubular fabric
      JIANG Gaoming;GU Luying;DONG Zhijia;CONG Honglian;ZHANG Aijun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  140-144. 
      Abstract ( 966 )   PDF (659KB) ( 576 )   Save
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      Manual designing of double needle bar warp-knitted seamless tubular fabrics is a heavy workload, low efficient and tend to make errors. Based on the study of texture,chain notations and threading-in cycle of warp-knitted seamless tubular fabric,a new mathematical model for describing chain notations and threading-in cycle of warp-knitted seamless tubular fabric was offered. Meanwhile,detailed descriptions of design for the front,the back and the edge of tubular fabric were discussed with focuses on the lapping movement law of tube edge structure,number of bars for tube edge together with the generation and elimination of the “stitch” on the tube edge. With this model,warp-knitted seamless tubular fabrics can be developed visually,rapidly and exactly.

      综合评述
      Research progress of wearable plantar pressure measurement technology
      JIN Man;DING Xin;GAM Yiming;YANG Xudong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  145-148. 
      Abstract ( 1018 )   PDF (124KB) ( 630 )   Save
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      Wearable plantar pressure measurement as a new type of medical monitoring technology is developing rapidly in recent years. This technology has made a breakthrough in breaking the traditional restriction of medical monitoring and diagnosis, realized dynamic monitoring of plantar pressure on routine basis, provided important theoretical basis for medical healthcare, correction of sports posture, and scientific making of shoes. Through the introduction of the wearable plantar pressure measurement technology, including system architecture, type of sensors and related technologies, the acquisition of foot physiological signal when the human body is in natural movement conditions is elucidated, along with the current status and prospects for the wearable plantar pressure measurement technology.

      Current status and development strategy of fabric creative design sector of China
      HU Keqin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(1):  149-154. 
      Abstract ( 1061 )   PDF (139KB) ( 535 )   Save
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      In order to enhance the level of fabric creative designing, the paper firstly analyzed the confronted situations such as poor atmosphere for innovation, low added value of fabric and lack of high-level original designer, and then introduced the related experience in advanced countries and regions, includes research and lead the fashion trend,adoption the innovative system by integrating the strength of industry, government, universities and research institute,use of effective R & D methods and strategies for fabric creative design under the guidance of advanced concepts,create of good atmosphere for the growth of designers. For this, suggestions were put forward,i. e., the government should strengthen its guidance, formulate related protective policies, and speed up the construction of textile bases. In addition, the fashion trend should be researched and traced by the whole industry. The training of fabric designers should bi speed up, and finally, professional fabric design organizations should be fostered with great effort.