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Table of Content

    15 October 2010, Volume 31 Issue 10
    • 纤维材料
      Electroconductivity of coated PANI/PA6 fiber
      JIN Xin;;XIAO Changfa;YU Chankun;XIE Chau
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1600 )   PDF (867KB) ( 357 )   Save
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      Owing to the fact the electroconductive coating by traditional coating method tends to drop, this study proposed a dissolving-coating method for preparetion of coated electroconductive fibers, in which the coating liquid was prepared by dispersing polyaniline (PANI) in the formic acid aqueous solution and then evenly applied on the surface of polycaprolactam (PA6) fibers with specially designed equipment. After untrasonic washing, PANI/ PA6 fibers were obtained and woven weftwise into the substrate fabric at a space of 20mm on a laboratory weaving machine. FT-IR, DSC, TG, water washing and heat treatment were employed to investigate the structure and properties of the PANI/ PA6 fibers. The results showed that PANI coating is difficult to peel off after the heating and washing treatment. In addition, PANI/ PA6 fibers doped by organic acid illustrate good electrical property and thermal stability.

      Morphology and mechanical properties of electrospun Poly(butylene succinate) ultrafine fibrous membranes
      WANG Qunwang;XIONG Jie;ZHANG Hongping;XIE Junjun;LIU Guanfeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  6-9. 
      Abstract ( 1059 )   PDF (800KB) ( 292 )   Save
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      Poly(butylene succinate) (PBS) ultrafine fibrous membranes were prepared by electrospinning of PBS solutions with different mass concentrations. The morphology of ultrafine fibrous membranes was observed by field-emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM). The ultrafine fibrous membranes with mass concentration of 6% and cast membranes with mass concentration of 6% were examined by FT-IR, XRD, and DSC. Analytical comparison of their structures and mechanical properties was made. The results showed that the average diameters of ultrafine fibers increase from 195 nm to 389 nm with increasing of PBS mass concentration. Compared with cast membranes, the crystallinity of ultrafine fibrous membranes decreases. Its failure stress is 18.6MPa and lower than cast membranes, but failure strain is up to 120%, almost twice as much as that of cast membranes.

      Influence of low temperature plasma treatment on surface performance of aramid fibers
      QIAN Kun;CAO Haijian;SHENG Dongxiao;ZHUANG Suyu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  10-13. 
      Abstract ( 964 )   PDF (1029KB) ( 331 )   Save
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      To study the influence of low temperature plasma treatment on the surface performance on aramid fibers, samples were made and plasma treatment of the samples was performed. The degree of plasma etching on the surface of aramid fibers were characterized with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and hydrophilicity tests, and tensile strength of aramid fibers before and after low temperature plasma treatment was tested. The results showed that the degree of plasma etching on the surface of aramid fibers increased with the increase of treating time and power. The tensile strength of aramid fibers after low temperature plasma treatment showed little change, but hydrophilicity of the fibers improved significantly, and their adhesion strength with resin increased by nearly 50%.

      Moisture adsorption property of soybean protein / cellulose blend fiber
      ZHU Jin-Zhong;SU Yuheng;MAO Huixian;YAN Guangsong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  14-19. 
      Abstract ( 1174 )   PDF (569KB) ( 409 )   Save
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      With a view to investigate the hygroscopic property of soybean protein/cellulose blend fibers, the moisture regain, hygroscopic and moisture liberation properties of the fibers are tested under standard condition. The hygroscopic and moisture liberation regression equations are achieved, and the regression equations of velocity of hygroscopic and moisture liberation are derived. The hygroscopic properties of blend fibers with different soybean protein ratios are compared, including comparaing with bamboo, flax and jute fibers. The results reveal that the hygroscopic property of soybean protein / cellulose blends fibers increases with increasing the blend ratio of soybean protein. The hygroscopic velocity of blend fiber with 16.2% soybean protein lies between that of bamboo and flax, and the moisture liberation velocity is better than those of bamboo, flax and jute fibers.

      纺织工程
      On compliance improvement of artifical blood vessels made of PTT filaments
      GAO Jie;DING Xin;CHEN Ying;LI Yuling;WANG Lu;ZHAO Xueqian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  20-23. 
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (455KB) ( 276 )   Save
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      In view of the low radial compliance of the current woven artifical blood vessels made of polyester (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) filament yarns are used as the weft in manufacturing artifical blood vessels. Tensile tests show that the initial modulus of woven fabrics made of PTT filaments is much lower than that of common PET filaments. In addition, the former shows much better property of elastic recovery than the latter. The radial compliance of woven artifical blood vessels made of PTT and PET filaments is tested respectively on a newly developed compliance tester. The results show that, under the same pulse pressures, PTT woven artifical blood vessel has good radial compliance and is more suitable to meet the requirements of the body blood vessel in diameter-pressure variation.

      Research on Design of Black-and-White Simulative Effect Jacquard Fabric
      ZHOU Jiu;Yejin JIANG
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  24-28. 
      Abstract ( 989 )   PDF (2152KB) ( 276 )   Save
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      The key of designing the black-and-white simulative effect jacquard fabric lies in its structure design. In view of mutual shading problem caused by parallel yarns sliding with single-layer colorless digital jacquard fabric, this study, combining the traditional black-and-white woven photograph design method and the full color development design method, presents the designing principle and method of black-and-white simulative effect jacquard fabric, including the single-layer structure design and the compound structure design. High simulative design practice of black-and-white jacquard fabric based on digital images is carried out. The results show that this compound structure design enables electronic jacquard fabrics to express accurately the gray level of the black-and-white shading so that high simulative black-and-white digital jacquard fabrics based on digital images is produced.

      Evaluation of fabric pilling based on standard images and image analysis
      ZHOU Yuanyuan;PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong;LIU Jihong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  29-33. 
      Abstract ( 1099 )   PDF (2240KB) ( 488 )   Save
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      For more objective evaluation of fabric pilling, we try to use image processing technology to solve this problem. First, the standard pilling images of the smooth surface of worsted fabric (GB/T4802.3—2008) are scanned, and Fourier transform is used to filter the low frequency areas which represent the texture of fabric in the frequency domain. The filtered standard images can be obtained with inverse Fourier transform. Then the enhanced OTSU local threshold is applied to enhance pilling information, extract the pilling area, and calculate the proportion of the pilling area accouting for the total. On this basis, the relation between the proportion of the pilling area accouting for the total and grades of pilling of fabrics is established. Finally, feasibility of this method is verified by the analysis of actual fabric.

      Simulation of fabric draping shape
      SHEN Yi;QI Hongqu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  34-39. 
      Abstract ( 874 )   PDF (1595KB) ( 414 )   Save
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      The goal of this study was to achieve draping shape prediction through fabric properties such as fabric structure and mechanical properties. It introduces a method that uses fabric draping parameters to rebuild fabric draping shape. The relationship between fabric drape and fabric properties are found out. Starting from draping extent and draping shape, ten draping parameters were proposed to characterize fabric drapability. By using these draping parameters and MatLab language 3-D fabric draping shape was simulated, and an intuitional visual effect to express fabric draping was achieved. The study provides a new method to rebuild fabric draping shape by pulling fabric properties.

      Thermal comfort of single-direction-sweat-transmitting fabric
      WANG Xiuqing;ZHANG Chang;GAO Meng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  40-44. 
      Abstract ( 1051 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 326 )   Save
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      To explore the thermal comfort of the single-direction-sweat- transmitting fabric under the condition of insensible perspiration, a mathematic model was established by analyzing the law of heat and moisture transfer of the fabric. Two typical single-direction-sweat-transmitting fabrics were selected as samples and a common fabric as counterpart in testing heat and moisture transfer properties, and the data on the total heat transfer, and dry and wet bulb temperatures under micro-climate and ambient conditions of the samples, as well as stimulated skin temperatures of human body were obtained. The thermal comfort indexes of dry-bulb coefficient and wet-bulb coefficient of the fabrics were fitted by binary regressive analysis. It was found that under the condition of insensible perspiration, the thermal comfort of the general fabric is similar on both sides, and so is the case with single-direction- sweat- transmitting fabrics.

      Automatic identification method of jacquard warp knitted patterns with net
      ZHANG Dan;JIANG Gaoming;CONG Honglian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  45-49. 
      Abstract ( 1025 )   PDF (1506KB) ( 464 )   Save
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      Jacquard warp knitted patterns with net effect have complex curves, leading to the time-consuming design of jacquard patterns. In order to simplify the design process, an automatic identification approach was developed. After scanning fabric and obtaining images and pre-processing, Laws texture energy measurement, iterative threshold segmentation and edge smoothness algorithm were comprehensively used to get the fabric pattern and then generate notation of jacquard design. Test results show that the method can effectively remove the noise for the image recognition caused by the mesh fabric, rapidly and accurately complete the automatic recognition of the required patterns, and then generate the picture of design. Recognition accuracy can reach 90%, which is of practical value to improve the design efficiency of such fabric.

      Paired analysis of fabric properties as affected by weave and weft yarns
      TANG Hong;HUANG Xiaomei;JI Chao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  50-54. 
      Abstract ( 869 )   PDF (487KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      In order to gain understanding of the effect of bamboo charcoal content and weave on the properties of bamboo charcoal fabric, in paired analysis, we used bamboo charcoal fabrics and polyester fabrics, including plain and twill weaves, to investigate the change of weft density on properties of the fabrics. At a probability of 0.05, it was found that there are no remarkable differences between bamboo charcoal fabric and polyester fabric in terms of warmth retention, heat transfer coefficient, permeability, generation of negative ion numbers, and benzene adsorption ratio, and the case with the samples of twill and plain weaves is similar. However, as to the sample of bamboo charcoal fabric, the average value of health-care function varies with structural parameters.

      GM(1,2) model for analyzing and testing humidity of oven and the moisture regain of textile material
      LI Xiaofeng; Wang Jianjun; Luo Youxin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  55-59. 
      Abstract ( 1019 )   PDF (525KB) ( 258 )   Save
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      In view of the method to investigate the dry state of textile material awaiting measurement by testing the air humidity of oven and the fact that the non-linear regression equation model established on textile material quality difference between pre-and post-weighing and the frequency difference between the two leads to greater error, this paper proposed to establish a gray system GM(1,2) based on the air humidity of oven and the moisture regain of textile material being dried. The fitting error of which has been proven to be much smaller than that of the regression equation model, and it can satisfy the requirement of engineering calculating. Thus, it provides a necessary solution in measuring the air humidity of oven showing dry state of textile material awaiting measurement.

      染整与化学品
      Determination of pectin content on cotton fabric sized with starch
      ZHOU Min′ge;HOU Aiqin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  60-65. 
      Abstract ( 1209 )   PDF (780KB) ( 210 )   Save
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      The wetting property of pretreated cotton fabrics is obviously affected by the pectin on cotton fiber. To measure the property of the pretreated cotton fabric in quantity, the content of pectin is usually determined. For cotton fabric sized with starch, the starch has significant impact on the determination of pectin with the traditional test method. In this paper, a new method was proposed on the basis of DNS-spectrophotometer-method. The effects of absorption wavelength, quantity of DNS, reflux time of starch solution with sulfuric acid, and reflux time of pectin solution with sulfuric acid were investigated. The content of pectin can be determined precisely by this method, avoiding the influence of starch. It has practical significance for investigating the pretreatment with compound enzyme and the effect of pectin on wetting property of cotton fabric.

      Room-temperature bleaching of cotton fabrics with chitosan-metal complexes /H2O2
      YUAN Ailin;WANG Jian;CHEN Tianlong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  66-69. 
      Abstract ( 1035 )   PDF (535KB) ( 287 )   Save
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      Coordination of chitosan with metallic ions Cu2+and Zn2+ was carried out in very thin solution, two kinds of chitosan-metal complexes were formed. The dynamics of catalytic decomposition of the complexes on H2O2 was investigated and room temperature bleaching of cotton with chitosan-metal complexes was performed. The result indicated that chitosan-metal complexes have excellent ability of catalyzing and decomposing H2O2 and the decomposition rate followed the first order reaction dynamics. pH valure, initial concentration of complexes were the dominating factors affecting the catalytic ability of chitosan-metal complexes. The optimized conditions for catalysis by CTS′- Zn(II) were CTS′- Zn(II) 3g/L and pH=11. The optimized conditions of catalysis by CTS′- Cu(II) were CTS′- Cu(II)3 g/L and pH=8. The whiteness of this low-temperature bleached fabric was similar to that by traditional process, and its strength retention was over 90%.

      Application of chitosan quaternary ammonium salt to antibacterial finishing of Bombyx mori silk fabrics
      ZHANG Wei;ZHU Bei;CHEN Yuyue
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  70-74. 
      Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (1340KB) ( 434 )   Save
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      Quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan (HTCC) was prepared with 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and chitosan due to the good biocidal property and water-solubility. The antibacterial activities of chitosan and HTCC were tested and compared by minimal inhibitory method, and they were respectively applied to the antibacterial finishing of Bombyx mori silk fabrics. The antibacterial activities of silk fabrics before and after treatment were tested by oscillation flask method. The results showed that the biocidal properties of chitosan and HTCC to staphylococcus and coli were both significant, and HTCC was better than chitosan. The biocidal properties of silk fabrics to staphylococcus and coli were both significantly improved after treatment with chitosan and HTCC, and the biocidal property of silk fabric with HTCC treatment was better than that of chitosan.

      Kinetics and thermodynamics of UV-absorbers taken up to polyester
      CHEN Weiguo;DAI Jinjin;WANG Xiaofang ;FANG Song;MENG Zhaocheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  75-81. 
      Abstract ( 882 )   PDF (979KB) ( 272 )   Save
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      In order to reveal the regularity of UV-absorbers taken up to PET fibers, three benzotriazole type UV-absorbers (UV-A1, UV-A2 and UV-A3) were dyed onto PET fabrics with high temperature and high pressure dyeing process. The uptakes of three UV-absorbers were determined through extraction with DMF. The thermodynamics and kinetics parameters of the three UV-absorbers were measured and calculated. Through comparison of their thermodynamics and kinetics parameters, it was found that UV- A1 with simpler molecular structure and smaller molecular volume had greater equilibrium adsorption, higher dyeing rate and diffusion coefficient, shorter time of half dyeing when compared with UV- A2 and UV- A3. It is implied that UV- A1 was much easier to take up and penetrate into PET fibers, had better affinity to the fiber, greateer heat and entropy change during dyeing and a stronger trend of leaving for the PET fibers from the dyeing bath.

      Tartrate used as accelerants of reactive dyestuffs
      Shi Zhendong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  82-86. 
      Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (521KB) ( 396 )   Save
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      Both sodium tartrate and potassium sodium tartrate were used as accelerants in dyeing cotton with C. I. Reactive Yellow 84. The influencing factors on dyeing were investigated for the salts. At the same time, accelerating effects of the salts were compared with those of sodium citrate. It was found that the optimal dyeing parameters were as follows: dyeing time 25 min, fixing time 30 min, fixing temperature 85 oC, and concentration of the fixing agent 4-10g/L when sodium tartrate was used as accelerant. Moreover, acceptable accelerating effect could be obtained when the concentrations of all the three salts were 50 g/L. For obtaining the optimal accelarating result, concentrations of sodium tartrate, potassium sodium tartrate, and sodium citrate were 210, 230, 270 g/L respectively. In respect of accelerating result, potassium sodium tartrate surpassed sodium tartrate a little. However, both of them were superior to sodium citrate.

      Preparation and sterilization of quaternary ammonium cationic monomer DBPMA
      Zhang Ronghua;Zhu Xun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  87-91. 
      Abstract ( 917 )   PDF (666KB) ( 396 )   Save
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      A new monomer named quaternary cation N, N-dimethyl, N- benzyl, N-acrylate ammonium chloride (DBPMA) is prepared from acryloyl chloride ethanol dimethylamine and benzyl chloride. The effects of the mole ratio of materials, reaction temperature, reaction time, and solvent on the yield were discussed. In the best reaction conditions, the yield of DBPMA is 82.1%. The bactericidal activity on ATCC6538 bacteria of DBPMA were also studied. The results show that the bactericidal activity of DBPMA is better than that of bactericide 1227. At 25℃, the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of DBPMA is much lower than that of dodecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (DTAB).

      Influences of fabric structure change on bending rigidity during dyeing and finishing
      LI Hong;SHI Xiangbin;YANG Yanfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  92-97. 
      Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (821KB) ( 256 )   Save
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      To improve the bending rigidity of polyester filament lining fabric, the influences of fabric structure on the bending rigidity during dyeing and finishing were studied. Experiments to simulate the dyeing and finishing processes were undertaken, process conditions were varied so that structural change of the fabric as affected by different shrinkages and weight reduction ratio was determined, and the data concerning the bending rigidity versus fabric structure change were obtained. The relationship between fabric structure parameters and bending rigidity is established by the non-linear regression analysis. The bending rigidity is predicted by BP neural network based on the change in fabric structural parameter during dyeing and finishing, and the prediction precision is rather high.

      服装工程
      Effects of grain directions of woven fabrics on skirt style
      LI Jun;KE Ying;LING Xiaoyan;WANG Yunyi;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  98-103. 
      Abstract ( 958 )   PDF (634KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      Garment style was affected not only by basic parameters of fabrics, but also by grain directions. Thin cotton-tabby fabrics were chosen to make skirt shape tests with same pattern but different grain directions. Objective and subjective assessments were made. The purpose was to explore the difference between skirt styles of the same fabric with different grain directions or the same grain direction with different fabrics. The results show that changing grain directions of the same fabric made little effect on objective assessment of skirt style, but marked effect on subjective assessment. Different fabrics with same grain directions showed a marked effect on skirt style. Pattern design affects the subjective assessment of skirt style greatly.

      Study on the Pressure Distribution and the Comfort Pressure Range of Men’s Seamless Underwear
      JIN Zimin;LUO Xiaoju;YAN Yuxiu;TAO Jianwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  104-109. 
      Abstract ( 919 )   PDF (817KB) ( 301 )   Save
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      120 young men of different body sizes were selected to wear seamless underwears made of the same material and style, but different cylinder diameters, weaves and knitting methods under static condition. The seamless underwear pressure on different positions of the upper body was tested, and the wearers were requested to give subjective evaluation of pressure comfort. Fuzzy mathematics, box control graph and other statistical methods were used to analyze the subjective and objective experimental data. The pressure distribution rule and comfort pressure range of the underwears were got. The results showed that on elbow, side part, armhole and back, young men are very sensitive to objective pressure’s variation. Though the objective pressure on forearm and upper arm is large, subjective evaluation is comfort. On the contray, the object pressure on chest is small, the subjective evaluation is bad. The reason is that pressure affordability varies with body parts. It is suggested that the pressure on armhole, back and chest should be decreased as much as possible when designing men’s seamless underwears.

      Research on body build of middle-and-old-aged women in Chengdu area
      LIU Yingmei;DAI Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  110-115. 
      Abstract ( 1173 )   PDF (820KB) ( 393 )   Save
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      Through the static contact measuring of human body of random selected 200 middle-and-old-aged women aging from 45 to 60 in Chengdu area, the data including 36 indexes of body build were analyzed by statistical means of description, factor and K-Means cluster, and four types of body build indexes were computed based on the data, then the features of body build about the middle-and-old-aged women were described qualitatively and quantitatively from different views. Based on the body features, a new standard suggested for the body build classification for the women was presented, and the reference values of main parts of various types of body build were also given.

      Design style of modern men’s wear
      CHEN Bin;CAO Xiaojie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  116-120. 
      Abstract ( 1028 )   PDF (1125KB) ( 289 )   Save
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      Modern men’s wear design emphasizes on style character and image appearance. The basic thoughts for building the design style of modern men’s wear are expounded. The emerging background of modern men’s wear design style is analyzed from different points such as history, culture, popularity of modern men’s wear, and designers’ works, showing its origin and development. The specific ways for expression of the style are discussed, and they include silhouette, structure, color, fabric, craftwork, details and collocation. Inner links of the style are thus clarified. It is considered that in general there are four couples of corresponding styles (classicism & avant-garde, reminiscence & modernism, feminization & masculinity, sports/leisure & elegance) that are the frame of modern men’s wear style. This conclusion is helpful to grasp the tendency, image and soul of brand for the style while designing men’s wear.

      机械与器材
      Dynamic balance optimization of middle shaft system of cotton comber based on ADAMS
      MA Qinghong;XU Bojun;Wang Xiaoxu;Wu Biyun;Xu Jin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  121-123. 
      Abstract ( 1062 )   PDF (753KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      With regard to the vibration and noise problems of CM500 cotton comber, a CAD model of the middle shaft system of headstock is built by 3-D software of Solidworks, and it is found that eccentricity exists with the mass distribution of the system, which generates centrifugal force, and results in vibration. For this reason, a dynamic model of the middle shaft is established according to the theory of dynamic balance and revolving method. The installation positions of some parts on the plan are optimized by software of ADAMS. The minimization of the bearing reaction about the middle system is fixed as the aim of optimization, it changes the mass center positions of flange plate and timing and regulation plate so that the amplitude of its bearing reaction is significantly reduced. Thus, its noise and vibration are decreased and its dynamic characteristics are improved.

      Investigation into rationality of weft handover at the center of shed on a rapier loom with two rapiers
      lei lizhao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  124-128. 
      Abstract ( 1136 )   PDF (630KB) ( 351 )   Save
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      This paper investigates into the failures of weft handover at the center of the shed on a rapier loom with two rapiers, which are caused by improper parameter designs or adjusting. It is revealed from theory and experiment that the success chance of weft handover concerns not only the structure and performance of the rapiers, the installation quality of filling insertion equipment and movement of the rapiers, but also parameters set on the process of filling insertion. This paper puts forward the rapier’s condition required for proper weft handover. Under the premise that both the static (nominal) transfer stroke and the static (nominal) overlap angle are greater than zero, it is required to keep the dynamical (actual) transfer stroke and the dynamical (actual) overlap angle greater than zero. The paper also comes up with two concepts, i. e. the optimum handover condition and the optimum handover zone, and points out the sequence and several important points on specifying the parameters on the process of filling insertion.

      Technology for transfer needle grooves machining
      LUO Zhiping;DING Hao;ZHANG Yongyu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  129-133. 
      Abstract ( 1118 )   PDF (1387KB) ( 348 )   Save
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      High precision and consistency are demanded for transfer needles of computerized flat knitting machines in order to adapt to the rapid development trend of the machines and to meet the requirement of longer service life of needles. Therefore, this paper introduced a new processing technique, which took machining center as the processing platform, utilized a special automatic fixture with PLC, and consisted of cooling and lubrication with oil-mist, optimization of tool types, gripping style and processing parameters, thus realizing high accuracy and automatic processing of needle grooves. Results of batch processing showed that the machining precision could reach mm, better than traditional precision of mm, and the dimensional consistency met operating requirements. Moreover, surface smoothness was upgraded when compared with that by traditional technique.

      管理与信息化
      It is not rare for penetration phenomena to occur between garment and mannequin when 3-D garment is dressed onto various mannequins. In order to enhance the reusability of the 3-D scanned garment model, an algorithm based on same layer penetration compensation has been proposed, in which, the penetration detection and compensation between garment and mannequin are expressed respectively by the crossover and compensation between garment vertex and body triangle, and between garment edge/body triangle. The over-deformation is compensated via the position adjustment procedure. Experimental results verify that this method is an efficient approach for reusing 3-D scanned garment models.
      YANG Gang;;ZHONG Yueqi;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  134-138. 
      Abstract ( 959 )   PDF (874KB) ( 354 )   Save
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      It is not rare for penetration phenomena to occur between garment and mannequin when 3-D garment is dressed onto various mannequins. In order to enhance the reusability of the 3-D scanned garment model, an algorithm based on same layer penetration compensation has been proposed, in which, the penetration detection and compensation between garment and mannequin are expressed respectively by the crossover and compensation between garment vertex and body triangle, and between garment edge/body triangle. The over-deformation is compensated via the position adjustment procedure. Experimental results verify that this method is an efficient approach for reusing 3-D scanned garment models.

      Study on retail service quality of popular casual brand garments
      WU Zhaoshan;HU Danting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  139-145. 
      Abstract ( 916 )   PDF (895KB) ( 247 )   Save
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      The measurement scale of service quality is mainly based upon SERVQUAL scale which was developed by three scholors. The first-hand data were obtained through interviewing and market investigation,and China’s cultural background and industrial characteristics were also taken into consideration. On this basis, a measurement scale of service quality which comprises 22 items that span four dimensions is developed for the retail service quality of popular casual brand garments by using software SPSS 16.0.Then, using structural equation modeling (SEM ), the feasibility of proposed scale which has good structural and fitting has been verified via software AMOS7.0. And analysis of the influence of every dimension of service quality on overall service quality shows that service attitude, reproducibility, reliability but tangible dimension have positive and significant influence on overall service quality.

      Multi-objective programming in clothing wholesale supply chain based on MIP and AHP
      ZHU Yong;;WANG Zhengxiao;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  146-150. 
      Abstract ( 1074 )   PDF (813KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      To balance total cost, delivery time, and average service in clothing wholesale supply chain is an important decision. A new method to solve multi-objective programming (MOP) is proposed, which combines mixed integer programming (MIP) and analytic hierarchy process (AHP). First sequence multiple objects according to their importance and determine the lowest acceptable standard of each object, which is used as constraint and the optimal solution of the most important object is obtained, which is considered as restriction, then the optimal solution of subordinate object is obtained. By lowering the restriction of higher object step by step, these serial solutions are obtained. Then evaluating and sequencing the serial solutions by AHP, the synthetic optimal plan is got. This method is demonstrated by a multiple object programming in a three-tier clothing wholesale supply chain, verifies the efficiency of the proposed model and algorithm.

      综合评述
      Current situation and developing trend for recycling use of fibers in Japan
      YU Yong-ling;LV Li-hua;ZHAO Yu-ping;WEI Chun-yan;CUI Jing;CHEN Chao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(10):  151-154. 
      Abstract ( 897 )   PDF (843KB) ( 268 )   Save
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      Due to the increasing pressure on global environment and natural resource, recycling use of fibers, as a means for easing the above problems, has drawn more and more attention from various countries all over the world, especially from the developed countries. Japan is one of the countries which take the lead in the research and use of recycled fibers. This paper discusses the current status and developing trend as recycling use of fibers in Japan in terms of the related legal system, research institutions, its chief probes for study and so on. This study may be used as reference for China to build a fully recycling society and promote further research in the use of recycled fibers.