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Table of Content

    15 November 2010, Volume 31 Issue 11
    • 纤维材料
      Preparation and characterization of ZnO-Fe3O4 composite nanofibers
      ZHANG Peipei;XU Shuyan;SONG Lixin;XIONG Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1238 )   PDF (1274KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      PVP/Zn(CH3COO)2/Fe(NO3)3 composite nanofibers were prepared, and by high temperature sintering of the above precursor fibers, ZnO-Fe3O4 composite nanofibers were successfully obtained. Field-emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM), energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS), thermal gravimetric analysis (TG), fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) and X-ray diffraction(XRD) were used to characterize the nanofibers before and after sintering. The results show that the diameters and the crystallinity of the nanofibers are significantly influenced by sintering temperature. When sintering temperature ranges from 400 °C to 700 °C, the average diameter of nanofibers decreases with the increasing of sintering temperature. However, when up to 800°C, the average diameter of fibers increases slightly. X-ray diffraction spectra show that the crystallinity becomes better with the increasing of sintering temperature, and at 700°C, the crystallinity is best.

      Effect of electrospinning parameters on diameter distribution of SCA nanofiber
      WANG Yinli;CHEN Yan;ZHANG Xiaojing;WANG Hongbo;GAO Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 1199 )   PDF (1692KB) ( 395 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of electrospinning parameters on diameter distribution of SCA nanofiber, SCA nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning process. The effect of mass concentration of the solution, distance, voltage, and speed of electrospinning on the morphology of the electrospun SCA nanofibers were investigated. The experiments were optimized and the optimal parameters were determined. SEM was applied to observe the morphology of the nanofibers and Photoshop CS 3.0 software was used for measurement and statistics of the nanofiber diameter. The results showed that SCA nanofiber diameter was more affected by mass concentration of the solution, the distance and speed of electrospinning than the voltage.

      Rheological behavior of cellulose solution with [AMIM]Cl as solvent
      SONG Jun;TAN Xiaorui ;CHENG Bowen ;JI Xiujie ;ZANG Hongjun ;XIA Yucong ;TANG Zanlin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 1627 )   PDF (880KB) ( 337 )   Save
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      The ionic liquid of 1-allyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride ([AMIM]Cl) was used as solvent to dissolve cellulose, and three kinds of cellulose solutions with different mass concentrations were prepared. Static and dynamic rheological properties of cellulose/ [AMIM]Cl solutions were investigated at different test conditions. The experimental data were analyzed, and viscose fluid activation energy and the structural viscosity index of the solutions were calculated. The results of static rheological properties show that cellulose ionic liquid solutions are pseudoplastic liquids in the studied range. Apparent shear viscosity, shear stress and structural viscosity index all decrease with temperature increase, and apparent shear viscosity is tend to be a constant value when temperature is up to 100℃. The results of dynamic rheological properties show that the loss modulus and storage modulus of this system are increased with the increasing of solution concentration, decreased with the increasing of temperature. The curves of loss modulus and storage modulus have a crossing point, before it, viscosity is dominant, and after it, elasticity is dominant.

      Preparation and characterization of silk fibroin/cellulose acetate blend fiber felt
      ZHOU Weitao;HE Jianxin;DU Shan;CUI Shizhong;GAO Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  16-19. 
      Abstract ( 1310 )   PDF (977KB) ( 513 )   Save
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      The blend solution prepared by dissolving Silk fibroin (SF) and cellulose acetate (CA) in formic acid at different mass concentrations was electrospun into SF/CA blend fibers and then processed into SF/CA felt. The SF/CA fiber felt was studied by SEM and XRD. The results showed that the spinnability of SF was remarkably improved with a small quantity of CA (no more than 10%), and the blend fibers were fine and uniform with the fiber diameters ranging from 50 nm to 300 nm. When CA content was 10%, the SF/CA blends showed excellent spinnability without any beads or droplets. However, the spinnability of SF/CA deteriorated seriously when the content of CA was more than 30%, and the electrospun SF/CA blend nanofibers were discontinuous, sticky, and forming dendritic structure with lot of beads. The XRD analysis showed that adding a small quantity of CA (no more than 10%) could induce the conformation transition of SF molecules transforming from random coil to β-sheet. Nevertheless, the phase separation was observed between SF and CA in blend nanofibers when the content of CA was more than 30%.
      Wool blending based on digital image processing
      LI Yuhong;PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong;LIU Jihong;CHAI Zhilei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  20-24. 
      Abstract ( 1113 )   PDF (1174KB) ( 372 )   Save
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      In order to solve the empirical and time-consuming problems associated with wool blending in wool mills, FCM algorithm is proposed to count the proportions of different color fibers in wool top so as to enhance the wool blending efficiency. On the basis of the images captured by a scanner, the images are converted from RGB mode to uniform color space of L*a*b* mode. Then FCM algorithm is used to cluster and analyze all the pixels in the image. Finally, the percentages of different color pixels are obtained and blending ratio are also obtained through statistical analysis of classification results. The effects of scanning resolution and the size scanning area on test results are also discussed. The results show that the percentages of different color pixels is relatively stable and close to the actual value when the scanning resolution and scanning area are not less 3000dpi and 40mm×40 mm respectively.

      纺织工程
      Numerical simulation of three-dimensional flow field inside porous cage roller of compact spinning
      CHEN Wen;ZHU Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  25-29. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (1011KB) ( 352 )   Save
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      A computational fluid dynamic model was established for simulating the flow field in condensing zone of compact spinning with porous cage roller. Their effects of width of suction slot, negative pressure, and splitter plate on the flow movement in condensing zone were analyzed. The results show that the converging air flow is generated by negative pressure effects in compact spinning with porous cage roller. The smaller the negative pressure, the bigger the exit velocity of the exhaust pipe. Suction slot with different widths and a suction hole with different negative pressure bring about different effects on fiber bundle. A compact spinning device with splitter plate is better than the one without splitter plate. The computational results well agree with the experimental values, thus providing reliable theoretical basis for the application of flow aggregation-type spinning device.

      Automatic analysis of woven fabric weave based on notation
      PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong;QIAN Xinxin;ZHANG Xiaoting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  30-34. 
      Abstract ( 1252 )   PDF (840KB) ( 342 )   Save
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      For identification of the basic weaves of the fabric from its notation, two methods based on auto-correlation function and Su index are proposed to extract the repeats in warp and weft directions of the notation to obtain the fabric weave diagram. By comparing the effectiveness and computational complexity of the two methods, Su index method is selected for recognizing the weave of the fabric from its weave diagram. During the recognition, the Su indices in warp and weft directions are calculated respectively. The repeats of warps and wefts can be achieved from the calculated results of Su indices and the woven fabric weave can be finally obtained. Actual examples proved that this identification method is effective.

      Application of plural IFS images to textile designs
      ZHAO Xiaolan;;YANG Xuhong;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  35-38. 
      Abstract ( 943 )   PDF (946KB) ( 303 )   Save
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      For enhancing the speed of generating textile designs, we proposed a new transform method of IFS images, that is, multiplying the original IFS codes by a new determinant, to obtain new IFS codes, and then the new images were generated from these new IFS codes. Many computer images that are unable to be designed by people’s minds can be generated through this method. For getting visual effect, we used the generated images in combination with the basic knowledge of making textile designs, created novel designs and obtained digital printed fabric by using ink-jet printing.

      Overall evaluation and prediction of heat-moisture comfort of coolmax/cotton double-faced effect fabric
      LI Min;;TU Jianwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  39-43. 
      Abstract ( 1212 )   PDF (700KB) ( 417 )   Save
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      In order to study heat-moisture comfort of the Coolmax/cotton double-faced effect knitted fabrics, and to make comprehensive comfort assessment and prediction of the fabrics, conventional objective experiments and human subjective experiments are carried out for 20 kinds of knitted fabrics which include 10 kinds of Coolmax/cotton double-faced effect knitted fabrics developed by College of Textile of DongHua University and 10 kinds of knitted fabrics selected from the market for comparative analysis. Based on experimental data, comprehensive evaluations of heat-moisture comfort of the fabrics are conducted by using the grey cluster analysis method. The results proved that Coolmax/cotton fabrics has good performance of air permeability, water vapor transmission, evaporation compared to the other fabrics selected on market. Then a linear model is built by using factor analysis and the multivariate regression analysis method, and the model which showed the relationship between the physical property indexes and subjective overall evaluation is proved to have good effect for prediction of heat-moisture comfort of the fabrics to a certain extent.

      Analysis of mechanical properties of honeycomb cotton fabrics
      LOU Liqin;FU Yaqin;CHEN Qing;HE Naiwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  44-48. 
      Abstract ( 1250 )   PDF (1079KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      To rationally apply honeycomb type fabric in reinforced composites, different honeycomb weave fabrics were developed with the same materials and same density of warp and weft. The tensile strength, tearing strength, bursting strength of the fabrics were tested and the impact of fabric weave on the mechanical properties was analyzed. The experiment demonstrated that under the conditions of the same materials and the same density of warp and weft, the mechanical properties of the fabrics are significantly different due to different honeycomb weaves. The more interlacing times of yarns, the smaller the honeycomb size, and the greater the fabric breaking strength. Breaking elongation, tearing strength, and bursting strength of fabric firstly increased and then decreased with the decrease of honeycomb size.

      Relationship between worsted fabric formability and structural parameters of weft yarn
      WU Weiwei;ZHANG Yang;ZHU Hongxiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  49-53. 
      Abstract ( 894 )   PDF (747KB) ( 315 )   Save
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      Based on discriminant equation, the study produced some worsted fabrics as samples, tested their mechanical properties and calculated the value of formability and index weight etc. Then the paper obtained fabric formability variation degree (vector module) and direction (vector direction), and investigated the relationship between the dynamic change trend of formability and structural parameters of weft yarn. The results indicate that the same evaluations obtained by equation which describes the relationship between formability vector module and yarn fineness have diffident meanings; within the twist factor limits of 100-160, the difference of formability vector modules between corresponding samples is steady once the variation quantity of the twist factor remains fixed, and the relationship between formability vector direction and twist is defined by factors weights. The verification results show that the obtained relationship between formability vector and structural parameters of weft yarn can be used as theoretical basis for the design of fabric formability.

      Testing and analysis of style of jute blend union fabrics
      PENG Wenfang;SUN Enle;YANG Shubing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  54-56. 
      Abstract ( 1002 )   PDF (637KB) ( 362 )   Save
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      In response to the question that whether jute fiber can be used to replace low-end flax fiber and its potential commercial applications, the paper discusses the features of cotton/jute fabric and compares it with flax /cotton fabric. One kind of flax /cotton blended yarn and five kinds of jute /cotton blended yarn with different blending ratios were tested and analyzed to compare a variety of physical and mechanical properties and basic style value for light weight women outwear. Jute /cotton fabrics and flax /cotton fabrics with the same blending ratio were also compared. The results showed that flax /cotton fabrics are suitable for body-fitting garments that hang loosely while jute /cotton fabrics are suitable for body-fitting leisure clothes that have more definite shapes, especially for light weight holiday clothes with folds.

      Simulation calculation and analysis of 2-D fabric impact response
      SONG Xiaobang;JIN Limin;WANG Chunxia;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  57-61. 
      Abstract ( 972 )   PDF (1700KB) ( 348 )   Save
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      To illustrate the impact resistance ability of fabrics under ballistic impact, we used the finite element software package ABAQUS to investigate the impact resistance properties of one kind of typical 2-D aramid fiber fabric. The velocity curve, energy curve, propagation of stress wave and process of ballistic impact were plotted and analyzed and the impact resistance performances and behaviors of this type of fabric were revealed. Under the ballistic impact which can’t puncture the 2-D fabric, the impact process can be divided into 2 stages, and mutual transformation between internal energy and kinetic energy occurs during the impact process. This work of study provides an effective prediction method for designing impact protective fabrics and impact protective analysis of other materials.

      染整与化学品
      Screening and applications of superior strain for biological retting of wild ramie
      MAO Wei-Kun;Zhang Zhen-zhong;Wang Xiang-don;HUA Jian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  62-66. 
      Abstract ( 1022 )   PDF (953KB) ( 379 )   Save
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      In order to achieve bio-degumming of the wild ramie, 37 strains were isolated from retting water of the wild ramie by agar plate dilution method, and superior stain was screened by transparent circle in combination with DNS method. It was found that transparent circle and enzymatic activity of TJ03 strain were the best. The ratio of transparent circle area and colony area was 19.98,pectinase activity and mannanase activity were 9.54, 8.63U/mL, respectively. Then microbial strain TJ03 was used for degumming of the wild ramie. The optimal conditions of retting wild ramie were pH 7.5, temperature 35℃, bath ratio 1:25 and 15 % inoculum size of strain TJ03, with residual gum content of wild ramie only 14.09%. Fiber bast was separated from the natural gum and woody matter of the stalk of wild ramie.

      Kinetic and thermodynamic of dyeing of polyester with C.I. Disperse Red 60 in supercritical carbon dioxide
      HUANG Gang;ZUO Jinliang;XING Yanjun;DAI Jinjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  67-72. 
      Abstract ( 1149 )   PDF (1041KB) ( 377 )   Save
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      Based on the developed dyeing prototype, the kinetics of dyeing of polyester with C.I. Disperse Red 60 in supercritical CO2 was studied. The diffusion coefficient of the dye in PET in supercritical CO2 increases with the increase of temperature. The activation energy calculated with the Arrhenius equation is 22.22 kJ/ mol, which is far lower than the activation energy in traditional water dyeing process of 163.84 kJ/ mol. The thermodynamics of dyeing of polyester with C.I. Disperse Red 60 in supercritical CO2 was investigated. The uptake of C.I. Disperse Red 60 in PET fiber is linear to the dye concentration applied. The SC-CO2 dyeing is actually a distribution process of the dye between fiber and the fluid. The distribution coefficient and the thermodynamic affinity of the dye decreases with the increase of temperature. Both the enthalpy and entropy of dyeing are negatives, which is -23.63 kJ/mol and -26.18 J/(mol•K) respectively.

      Thermodynamics of dyeing pearl fiber with direct dyes
      Meng Chun-Li;ji-liang Cao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  73-76. 
      Abstract ( 950 )   PDF (575KB) ( 339 )   Save
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      Turquoise Blue 5B (C.I. Direct Blue15) was selected to dye pearl and conventional viscose fibers. Freundlich, Langmuir and Redlich-Peterson adsorption isotherm models were used to fit the experimental isotherm curves. The influence of temperature on the constants of the three isotherm equations was discussed. The results showed that Langmuir equation can be better fitted the absorption of C.I. Direct Blue15 on pearl and conventional viscose fibers than Freundlich equation, but the best result was obtained by Redlich-Peterson equation. The Redlich-Peterson absorption constants KR of C.I. Direct Blue15 on pearl and conventional viscose fibers were decreased with the increase of dyeing temperature, and the hetero factor β and absorption constants aR values showed no obvious change.

      Clean dyeing of silk fabrics with acid dyes
      XIANG Wei ;CAI Zaisheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  77-82. 
      Abstract ( 1293 )   PDF (984KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      Bombyx mori silk fabrics were chemically modified by a self-prepared novel modifying agent [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl dodecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, HSQA] in order to improve the dyeability of acid dyers on silk fabrics and realize low temperature and neutral dyeing. The dyeing techniques were optimized, and the effect of pH values of dye bath, NaSO4 concentration, temperature and time on K/S values of the fabric was investigated. The properties of color fastness, levelling, saved dye quantity of the fabric before and after modification were compared. Adsorption isotherms of C. I. Acid Orange 7 on the treated silk were discussed. It was found that better color shades, good washing fastness and saving of dyes were achieved after silk cationization with HSQA, and it was possible to dye silk in neutral condition at 70℃. Furthermore, adsorption isotherms of C.I. Acid Orange 7 on the treated silk were in accord with Langmuir type.

      Low temperature one bath dyeing of PLA/cotton/PTT core-spun yarn knitted fabric
      LIU Deju;ZHANG Wei;ZHANG Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  83-89. 
      Abstract ( 1476 )   PDF (1097KB) ( 406 )   Save
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      Two-bath process dyeing of PLA/cotton/PTT core-spun yarn knitted fabric is time-consuming and low efficiency. A new low temperature one bath dyeing of PLA/cotton/PTT core-spun yarn knitted fabric is investigated, which is energy-saving and environmentally-friendly. The PLA component is not alkali-resistant. For protecting it, Argazol N reactive dyes which can be fixed under neutral condition were chosen to dye the cotton component. At the same time, the mild temperature disperse dyes which can decrease color contamination were chosen to dye PLA and PTT components. Dyeing prescription by addition of dispersing agent NNO 2.5 g / L into the dyeing recipe can achieve good anti-staining effect. Through investigation of fixing temperature of Argazol N Dyes and applying environmentally-friendly carrier CWP-910, PLA/cotton/PTT core-spun yarn knitted fabric can be dyed at low temperature 90℃. Holding the temperature for 30min during dyeing can ensure higher uptaking rate and union dyeing of PLA and PTT components.

      Synthesis and properties of polyether-polyester mixed waterborne polyurethane
      DIAO Zhengping;MIN Jie;WANG Lili;ZHANG Jiameng;PAN Jianjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  90-94. 
      Abstract ( 1001 )   PDF (786KB) ( 386 )   Save
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      A series of polyether-polyester mixed waterborne polyurethane(WPU) dispersions was synthesized from hexamethylene diisocyanate(HDI), poly 1,4-butylene adipate (PBA), polypropylene oxide glycol(PPG), dimethylolpropionic acid(DMPA). The effects of the polyester/polyether ratio and molecular weight on the properties of waterborne polyurethane emulsion and mechanical properties were discussed. Results indicated that with the increase of polyester content in the soft segment, the strength of polyurethane film increases, and polyurethane film with the soft segment containing pure polyester or polyether exhibits better elongation ratio. The tensile strength of polyether polyurethane film decreases as the molecular weight of soft segments increase, but the tensile strength of polyester polyurethane film increases.

      Synthesis of novel phosphite flame retardant and its use for formaldehyde free durable finish
      WEI Ju;LV Yanyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  95-98. 
      Abstract ( 1119 )   PDF (664KB) ( 357 )   Save
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      Novel flame retardant of penthaerythritol phosphite was synthesized from pentaerythritol and triphenyl phosphite. Cellulose fabric was finished by the flame retardant using toluene-2, 4-diisocyanate (TDI) as crosslinking agent. Chemical structures of the flame retardant agent and the treated cotton fabric were analyzed by the IR spectrum. Flammability of the finished cellulose fabric was tested by vertical flammability tester and limiting oxygen index (LOI) test apparatus. The results indicate that the flame retardant can bond with cellulose by crosslinking agent. LOI of the flame retardant treated cotton fabric still reach 27.8% after 12 washing cycles, having formaldehyde free and durable flame retardant properties.

      Color grading Method of stockings using Color space and FCM Clustering algorithm
      HUANG Heling;LI Ting;YI Jizheng;NI Bingbing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  99-103. 
      Abstract ( 1161 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 340 )   Save
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      For the problem of inspecting the levelness of dyed polyamide filaments, sample images of stockings are extracted by CCD camera, and Quotient image normalization method is proposed for the correction of optical source uniformity of the extracted stocking images, whose color feature processing is carried out by using the polynomial regression model. After processing, their mean/maximum color differences are 0.439/1.328 CIELAB units. Then color features of each sample are obtained via adopting hue percentage histogram of HSV color space algorithm. These features are regarded as input vectors for Fuzzy C-means clustering algorithm (FCM) through empirical equation. Finally, the color levelness rating of the stockings are automatically created by means of FCM. The experiment shows that the maximum number of iterations is 100, the bound of settle-out error is 1×10-5 , the fuzzy weighting index is 2, and the error between the experimental value and eye viewing result is 0.125% as showed when the single digits in the clustering center are 2、3、4、5 respectively. This error is far less than the permit error of production and technical standard.

      Algorithm for color prediction of knited fabrics during batch dyeing
      TANG Yiping;JIN Fujiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  104-108. 
      Abstract ( 1056 )   PDF (726KB) ( 311 )   Save
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      Since it is difficult to directly measure the color of knitted fabric during batch dyeing, this paper proposed a new color prediction method by measuring the dye-uptake rate from the dye bath. Based on dyeing principle and computer color measuring and color matching, this method used mechanism modeling in combination with experiential modeling and developed a math model of fiber’s surface reflectance during dyeing, dye uptake rate and initial concentration of the dye. An algorithm for color prediction of knitted fabric during batch dyeing was thus worked out combining the tri-stimulus value formula. This algorithm for color prediction was verified by dyeing pure cotton fabrics with three reactive dyes as examples.

      服装工程
      Study of dart shift methods in bias cut garments
      DING Xiqiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  109-115. 
      Abstract ( 2015 )   PDF (2773KB) ( 465 )   Save
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      How to transfer a bias cut dart on a paper pattern is demonstrated. This article introduces primary dart shift methods in bias cutting based on the singlet style frock prototype and bias cut prototype paper pattern frame. Practical examples are illustrated including arrangement, positioning and transferring. And how to complete the paper pattern structure design is also discussed.

      Technique and folk costume culture of side opening clothing in Qilu area in modern times
      QI Yan;CUI Rongrong;FAN Xuerong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  116-121. 
      Abstract ( 1133 )   PDF (1433KB) ( 436 )   Save
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      Side opening clothing and its technique “wa da jin” as well as associated folk custome culture in modern Qilu area were analyzed. Through on-spot investigation in combination with folk documents and annals of local history, the technical process and characteristics of “wa da jin” of single side opening clothing were studied from the perspective of folk costume and technology. Six processes including hinging clothing body, opennings, sewing small lapel, digging extension shoulder, sewing collar and after-treatment were analyzed and illustrated. On this basis, the associated folk cultural connotation was summed up as follows: its characteristics such as practical, concise and conservative reflect Qilu farming culture and the local ethnic character traits. Dress behavior and transmission of folk taboos express folk psychologies of Qilu people that aspire to a better life and avoid calamity. The skill level not only expresses thoughts and feelings of Qilu working women, but also determines its position in the family.

      Discussion on symbolic of apparel design elements
      XIAO Jinrong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  122-125. 
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (1184KB) ( 455 )   Save
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      The clothing design is a creative activity, combining emotional invention and artistic expression together. Clothing delivers the cultural connotations to the people with its specific language. By analyzing the theory of semiotics, and the principle and method of design, the internal relationship between them is found. The basic principle and method of the application of semiotics are obtained. Beginning from the characteristics of symbolic elements, this paper elucidates the effective symbolization of design elements, analyzing the impact of symbolization of design elements in the processes of control and propagation of design. The meaning of use of symbolization of apparel design elements is expounded in terms of aesthetics and practical value, especially in the period of economic crisis. The model of symbolization of apparel design elements is established.

      机械与器材
      Study on auto-detecting of spinneret by machine vision
      LI Chunlei;CUI Bin;WU Xingkuan;YANG Chongchang;FENG Pei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  126-130. 
      Abstract ( 947 )   PDF (1324KB) ( 364 )   Save
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      As the bottoms of some spinnerets are spherical and they would become bulge if some blocked microholes bear overpressure frequently, then the CCD can not get clear image of the microholes on the spinneret, so the machine can not detect the microholes correctly. To solve the incorrect phenomenon and the low efficiency of atuo-focusing to every hole, the paper puts forward an auto-focusing method based on machine vision, the machine focuses on the microholes when the lens moves to the next circle or the detected diameter value bigger than the standard one, so that the machine can automatically detect microholes with high accuracy and enhance the efficiency of detection.

      Development of the normal walk state based energy consumption testing system for shorts
      HUANG Li;JIANG Yaming;SUI Xiuwu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  131-134. 
      Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (850KB) ( 319 )   Save
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      This paper develops an energy consumption testing system for shorts based on the normal walk state. The DC motor is selected as power in this system, eccentric wheel swing bar drives the simulated legs for walking, and data acquisition card of PCI2300 is used to collect data. In this way, the energy consumed by shorts can be obtained according to energy difference between loading sate and unloading state. This article also introduces conformation and working mechanism of every unit, obtains the range of walking is ±34.8°from the structure of walking unit. At the same time, the operational procedures and energy consumption formulation were given. The experimental results show that the developed testing system is workable for energy consumption measurement through using it.

      管理与信息化
      Empirical research on effect of apparel network marketing on brand power
      DAI Weiya;NING Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  135-139. 
      Abstract ( 926 )   PDF (940KB) ( 492 )   Save
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      An investigation into the influence of apparel network marketing on brand power,taking men’s wear brand H as an example, used Likert scale to evaluate the operation of the network marketing and the influence of brand H network marketing on brand power and gave them marks accordingly and related data were collected. A multiple response cross frequency analysis was used to describe the basic situation of brand H marketing channels, while factor analysis was used to determined the key factors affecting brand power of brand H network marketing, that is, value-added factor, product characteristic factor, service environment factor, advertisement factor, promotion factor and network marketing factor. Finally, it was found by correlation analysis that there is a positive correlation between H brand network marketing and fit for Chinese male body, high-end brand, well designed product, more advertisement, well designed advertisement, promotion activity and reasonable price. However, warm service and efficient work of the seller, shop convenient, and easy to buy are negative correlated to H brand network marketing.
      Dynamic simulation of three-dimensional avatar based on skeleton coincidence
      LI Duan;ZHONG Yueqi;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  140-144. 
      Abstract ( 1150 )   PDF (1326KB) ( 445 )   Save
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      In the 3D virtual try on system, the characteristics of clothing will be better displayed if the clothing is simulated via vivid animation. In this paper, a method was proposed to embed the captured motions (recorded as BVH format) into a three-dimensional avatar, and to drive it with the same movement. The skeleton of the avatar is extracted via automatic body measurement. The pose difference between the template model and the avatar is compensated via affine transformations. The skeleton-driven skin deformation is reached by assigning weight values to the vertices attached with the bones. To enhance the accuracy of weight distribution, the bones and the joints are employed to constrain the weight boundaries. Experimental results validate that the method is an effective approach in reusing the motion captured files for dressing simulation.

      综合评述
      Development of polymer dye-fixatives for cotton fabrics
      YU Yi-Kai;ZHANG Yue-Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(11):  145-150. 
      Abstract ( 861 )   PDF (1039KB) ( 587 )   Save
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      The development of polymer dye-fixatives for cotton fabrics was reviewed. The related preparations, applications, and properties with focus on relationships between different structures, molecular weight control, and fastness properties were addressed. It pointed out that the structural modification is developing towards non-formaldehyde, nondiscoloring fixatives with multifunctional groups. Control of relative molecular weight can effectively improve fastness properties, except that wet rubbing fastness is not satisfactory, which is a problem to be solved. Through analysis it is considered that further modification of their structures combined with control of molecular weights would be an approach to overcoming the above-mentioned shortcomings and enhance fastness properties.