Table of Content

15 September 2008, Volume 29 Issue 9

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纤维材料

Studies on coagulation process for cellulose liquid crystalline solution

LI Zhenguo;HU Panpan;HU Zuming;LIU Zhaofeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  1-4. 

Abstract ( 1030 )   PDF (420KB) ( 897 )   Save

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Liquid crystalline solutions of cellulose in phosphoric acid/poly-phosphoric acid compound solvent were prepared in a kneader.The coagulation rate was measured based on microscopic observation of the moving boundary associated with coagulation.The effect of the nature of the coagulant,temperature of coagulation bath,and cellulose concentration on the coagulation rate was studied.The results show that the molecular size and molecular structure of the coagulant play an important role in determining the rate of coagulation,coagulation rate decreases with increasing molecular volume for the three monohydric alcohols,ethanol,1-propanol and 2-propanol;an Arrhenius-type relationship exist between the coagulation rate and temperature,coagulation rate increases with increasing the temperature of coagulation bath,the activation energy for coagulation increases in the order ethanol<1-propanol<2-propanol;coagulation rate decreases with increasing cellulose concentration in the solution.Based on these studies,the effect of coagulation variables on coagulation process was depicted.

Effect of super-high molecular weight cellulose on the spinning properties of Lyocell

东华大学纤维材料改性国家重点实验室

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  5-9. 

Abstract ( 939 )   PDF (550KB) ( 530 )   Save

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The cellulose material formed by mixing general molecular weight pulp(DP=722) with a small quantity of super-high molecular weight pulp(DP≈10 000) was dissolved in N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide monohydrate(NMMO.H2O) and the resultant dope was spun by Lyocell process.It was found that the addition of super-high molecular weight cellulose did not enhance the strength and modulus of Lyocell fiber effectively.Combined with the analysis of the rheological properties of the dopes taken from different positions during spinning process,and the molecular weight and its distribution of cellulose in the dopes,it was clear that the addition of the super-high molecular weight cellulose resulted in dope separation when it flew through filter under the spinning pressure and therefore the mechanical properties of prepared Lyocell fiber could not be improved obviously.

Preparation and properties of the acid-dyeable polyester fibers

WANG Lianjun;LIU Fang;QING Fengling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  10-15. 

Abstract ( 1359 )   PDF (742KB) ( 480 )   Save

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In order to consummate the acid-dyeable polyester(PTT) fibers,realize one-bath dyeing blended fabric,reduce cost,and ensure the dyeing quality of PTT fabrics,a novel polyamide was obtained through polymerization by dimethyl terephthalate(DMT) and triamine used as an additive to improve the acid-dyeable ability of the polyester.The effects of the additive on the mechanical properties and crystallization of the modified PTT fiber were studied. The dyeing test was conducted with acid dyes,at the same time the dyeing mechanism and conditions were also discussed.The results showed that the compatibility of the blends was good,the particles of additive were fully dispersed,the mechanical properties and crystallization of the modified PTT fibers were also good,the maximum dye-uptake of the acid dyeing on PTT fibers was over 65%.

Influence of duration of treatment and media on the properties of PET/PTT filaments

XIAO Hong;LIU Jing;SHI Meiwu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  16-19. 

Abstract ( 971 )   PDF (687KB) ( 835 )   Save

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The PET/PTT filaments will have different crimp properties under different time and with different media at the same temperature.The crimp shrinking rate of the PET/PTT filament will be 80%-90% of the total crimp shrinking rate in the first five minutes when treated at different temperatures,then will reach a balance shrinking rate.The higher the temperature is,the shorter the time reaches balance.The water will accelerate the moving of the macromolecules and the crimp appearance.In relaxation and under low load,the promotion effect to the macromolecules activity from water is higher than from the low load,the filament orientation decreases and the crimp appearances.The crimp shrinking rate and crimp elongation rate of PET/PTT filaments treated in boiling water are 10.2% and 131.9% higher respectively than those treated in the oven at 100℃.

Dynamic mechanical properties of diacetate fiber

NIU Jianshe;CAI Yulan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  20-22. 

Abstract ( 978 )   PDF (777KB) ( 574 )   Save

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Dynamic mechanical properties of diacetate fiber with various moisture contents were investigated by DMA.Various relaxations of the fiber and their mechanisms were analyzed.The investigation showed that the glass-transition of diacetate fiber appeared at 184℃,and theβ*andγrelaxations were humidity-dependent.Theβ*relaxation is associated with the synergy movement between the hydroxyl groups and the water molecules binding with them,whereas it can be considered that the movement of water molecule binding loosely with non-esterified hydroxyl groups is related toγrelaxation.The broaderβrelaxation,which existed in DMA spectrum of cellulose,is tentatively assigned to local motions of the main chain(glucose unit),but the possibility of the synergy movement between lateral groups and main chain can not be excluded.

Influence of fiber end dimension on its bending behavior

LI Dan;YU Pu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  23-25. 

Abstract ( 1286 )   PDF (716KB) ( 527 )   Save

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运用有限元的方法,在准静态条件下将被模拟的单纤维几何尺寸采用多节点、方形、连续的三维有限单元进行离散化,进而研究不同粗细直径纤维端对单纤维弯曲性能的影响。在悬臂梁弯曲模式下,通过有限元模拟计算得出纤维端尺寸的单纤维的抗弯刚度。结果表明:纤维端尺寸不同对单纤维弯曲性能影响明显;对于平均直径相同的单纤维,纤维端直径较细的纤维比纤维端直径较粗的纤维易弯曲。

Effect of ultrasonic treatment on the wettability of wool fibers

FEI Yanna;DENG Bingyao;GAO Weidong;JIANG Rongrong;ZHANG Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  26-29. 

Abstract ( 1181 )   PDF (773KB) ( 434 )   Save

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In order to improve the wettability and add additional functionality to wool fibers,the effect of the three pretreatments ultrasonic water bath,ultrasonic and penetrating agent water bath,and impregnation with penetrating agent on the wettabiliy of wool fiber was investigated.The wettability and the surface morphology of the wool fibers before and after treatment were characterized with single-fiber dynamic contact angle tension meter(CDCA) and scanning electron microscope(SEM).The experimental results indicated that the wettability of worsted fabrics subjected to the three pretreatments respectively was all improved more or less,and the improvement of the wettability of worsted fabrics treated with ultrasonic and penetrating agent water bath was most significantly.SEM indicated that the surface scale layer on the wool fibers was etched and partly stripped after ultrasonic treatment.

Effect of silk fibers in lowering the content of aldehydes in the smoke mainly from lit cigarettes

TIAN Baozhong;YANG Ertao;JIANG Cheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  30-33. 

Abstract ( 1162 )   PDF (761KB) ( 374 )   Save

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To investigate the effect of silk fibers in adsorbing and filtering aldehydes in the smoke mainly from the lit cigarettes,silk fiber filter tips were prepared.Through the simulated smoking,mainstream smoke was collected,and the contents of aldehydes in mainstream smoke,and the amount of aldehydes adsorbed by silk fibers in filter tips were determined with colorimetry.Results indicate that,the larger the filling density of silk fiber filter tips,the lower the content of aldehydes in mainstream smoke of cigarettes,at the same time,the higher the amount of aldehydes adsorbed by silk fibers in filter tip.Silk fibers perform excellently in lowering the content of aldehydes in the smoke mainly from lit cigaretts.

纺织工程

Application of principal component analysis and BP neural network in the worsted roving spinning

LIU Gui;YU Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  34-37. 

Abstract ( 1090 )   PDF (999KB) ( 398 )   Save

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The characteristics of worsted roving procedure and BP neural network have been analyzed.Based on interdependence of all parameters,the principal component analysis(PCA) has been proposed to preprocess the roving procedure′s data collected from a worsted mill.The five general indexes: fiber characteristic,top weight unevenness,top drafting state,top impurities content and top drawing state have been gained,thus eliminating the original variables′interdependence.After PCA the data were inputted to BP network for modeling.The results indicate that the number of node decreased;the network structure simplified;the performance and learning rate of network enhanced.The relative mean error percent between the forecast values ofCVand weight of 20 groups of test samples of roving and the measured values are 2.24% and 1.95% compared to 4.86% and 3.35% before PCA respectively;the precision is improved.The correlation coefficient between the predict value and measured value is also distinctly enhanced.

Digital analysis of fabric smoothness appearance on point-sampled model

CHEN Huimin;GU Hongbo;ZHANG Weiyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  38-42. 

Abstract ( 992 )   PDF (1025KB) ( 410 )   Save

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A systematic scheme on fabric point-sampled model was introduced to objectively assess the fabric smoothness grade.The high precision laser scanner was adopted to obtain the fabric geometry.A point cloud composed of scatter three-dimensional coordinate points was the discrete representation of the fabric surface.Feature points were extracted from the point cloud and neighborhoods at vertices were constructed.The calculations of Gaussian curvature and mean curvature were performed later using surface discrete differential geometry.The statistic results show that Gaussian curvature,mean curvature and their combination estimate the local surface crooked properties and bending type.The digital analysis on fabric point-sampled model supplies believable and reliable data for the objective assessment of fabric smoothness grade.

Application of BP neural network on the identification of fabric defects

LIU Jianli;ZUO Baoqi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  43-46. 

Abstract ( 956 )   PDF (1057KB) ( 477 )   Save

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A 3-layer BP neural network is used to identify fabric defects.An unsuitability rule is proposed innovatively to optimize the neural network structure,improve the training speed and identification correctness,which is executed during the selection of neuron number in hidden layer and the choice of training methods.The designed neural network is trained with test samples,including warp-lacking,weft-lacking,double weft,loom bar,oil stain and hole,according to the unsuitability rule.Experimental results show that the neural network designed with the way proposed in this paper can satisfy the identification requirement and which possesses advantages of high identification veracity and speed.

Prediction of fabric formability based on fuzzy neural network

PAN Yonghui;FAN Rui;WANG Shitong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  47-50. 

Abstract ( 970 )   PDF (979KB) ( 426 )   Save

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Based on the relationship between FAST extension,bending properties,and fabric formability,this paper applies FCM clustering to determine the number of fuzzy rule,and proposes an objective evaluation system of fabric formability by using fuzzy neural network.Fabric samples are cut every 10°(45°included) from warp-wise to weft-wise,and 66 and 33 groups of data obtained are used for neural network learning and stimulation respectively.The experimental results demonstrate that the proposed system can be used as a prediction system for fabric formability according to its weave structure and physical properties.It gives evaluation indexes quickly and accurately,with absolute value of the maximum relative error less than 7.7%.

Coefficient of 3-D draping test of fabrics and 3-D reconstruction

CHEN Ming;ZHOU Hua;YANG Lanjun;LI Bin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  51-55. 

Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (1090KB) ( 457 )   Save

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织物;悬垂系数;匀称度;美感指数;悬垂形态;三维系数

Thermal protective performance of heat and flame resistant fabrics in flame exposure

CUI Zhiying;ZHANG Weiyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  56-58. 

Abstract ( 1156 )   PDF (995KB) ( 473 )   Save

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The thermal protective performance of 13 heat and flame resistant fabrics made with aromatic polyamide(aramid),polybenzimidazole(PBI),Kermel,PSA,flame-resistant cotton,and blends of Kermel with flame retardant rayon fibers was evaluated in laboratory tests using flame exposures to convective and radiant heat sources.Factors such as heat flux,stillness air layer,fiber type,fabric thickness,weight of fabric,and air permeability were discussed.Experimental results revealed that fiber type,heat flux were important variables.With the weight and thickness increasing,TPPwas increasing.However,air permeability was negative forTPP.

Relationships between thermal protective performance and properties of fabrics

LI Hongyan;WU Xuanrun;ZHANG Weiyuan;YANG Kai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  59-61. 

Abstract ( 1143 )   PDF (982KB) ( 525 )   Save

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amples are taken from 13 kinds of fire-retardant fabrics that are suitable for thermal protective clothing′s outer layer,TPPvalues of the samples were tested through thermal radiation and thermal convective integrated experiments,and mass loss before and after combustion was calculated,then SPSS software was used to analyze the effect of mass loss before and after combustion,thickness and weight of single layer fabric on its TPPvalues.It is concluded that theTPPvalue is almost no influenced by mass loss before and after combustion,but more influenced by fabric thickness and weight.The impact of weight on thermal protective performance is not as significant as thickness.And a simple linear regression equation is developed between TPPvalue and thickness.

Calculation of fiber volume fraction for multidirectional filament wound glass-fiber/epoxy tubes

XIE Xia;JIANG Yaming;QIU Guanxiong;WANG Peng;XU Aifen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  62-66. 

Abstract ( 1479 )   PDF (1025KB) ( 530 )   Save

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Based on the hypothesis that the yarns′cross-section shape is race-track and the analysis of microstructure,a mathematical model was proposed for the fiber volume fraction of multidirectional filament wound glass-fiber/epoxy tubes.According to the model,the fiber volume fraction is related to tow bandwidth,tow thickness,total number of winding cycles,helical winding angle,the inner radius of the product and the yarn gap,but not to the length of the cylinder.Furthermore,four specimens were wound with the same materials but different process parameters,and the results indicated that the fiber volume fraction from the model are in basic agreement with that of the experiment,which means though some variations exist,the model is practical.Finally,the main factors leading to the deviations of the theoretical value were analyzed,they were probably attributed to the ideal assumptions,influence of the porosity and so on.

Evaluation of the properties of decating blanket

ZOU Qingyun;MAO Huixian;WANG Guohe

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  67-71. 

Abstract ( 1031 )   PDF (974KB) ( 408 )   Save

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To investigate the influence of material and fabric structure on the properties of decating blanket and improve the decating quality of wool fabrics,this paper has developed 13 kinds of decating blanket samples according to the requirements of decating blankets.The properties of the developed decating blankets such as strength,work-to-break,permeability,water vapor permeability and thickness are tested.The evaluative value of combined properties of each decating blanket is obtained by fuzzy mathematics to analyze and calculate the testing results.It is found that the wool decating blankets which use pure Tencel or Tencel/cotton as weft yarn can get good decating effect,and the productivity is up and energy consumption is down.When compared with pure cotton decating blankets,they have longer service life.However,when the weft density of the decating blanket should be increased to a proper extent,or otherwise its combined properties will decrease.

染整与化学品

Effect of ester structure of water-soluble polyester sizes on the sizing properties of polyester warp yarns

JIN Enqi;ZHU Zhifeng;QIU Guoji;LI Yonghu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  72-74. 

Abstract ( 1441 )   PDF (1120KB) ( 581 )   Save

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In order to study the effect of ester structure of water-soluble polyester(WSP) sizes on sizing properties of polyester warp yarns and investigate the size recipe of WSP sizes,two kinds of WSP sizes with different ester structures were synthesized through choosing different diol monomers and a series of sizing experiments was carried out on pure polyester warp yarns with WSP size blended with acidified starch.The results show that ester chemical structure of WSP sizes has great effect on sizing properties,and the sizing properties of blended size are remarkably improved if WSP size taking glycol as ester structure unit is employed.Moreover,the properties of starch sizes for pure polyester warp yarns are obviously improved if WSP sizes are properly used and the weight percentage of WSP to the blended size is 20%.

Tolerance of sodium alkyl carboxylic acid auxiliaries to hard water

ZHU Zhifeng;XU Menghua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  75-77. 

Abstract ( 1210 )   PDF (1019KB) ( 440 )   Save

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The tolerance of sodium alkyl carboxylic acid auxiliaries to hard water was evaluated through measuring the influence of auxiliary upon the adhesion of starch to cotton.The relation between the alkyl carbon chain of the auxiliary and the tolerance to hard water was examined.The relevant relations between the adhesion and electrolyte type as well as electrolyte dosage were investigated.The experiment results demonstrate that the existence of electrolytes in starch paste decreases the serviceability of sodium alkyl carboxylic acid,which means that the adhesion to fibers reduces.Different carbon chain length in sodium alkyl carboxylic acid auxiliaries gives different tolerance to hard water.The tolerance increases with the decrease in length of the carbon chain when the carbon atom number of the chain is within 8 to 18.

Effects of heat setting temperature on the properties of knitted polyester fabrics

ZHANG Cuiling;ZHAO Guoliang;WANG Tiantian;WANG Xiaochun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  78-81. 

Abstract ( 2990 )   PDF (1135KB) ( 602 )   Save

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The purpose of this paper is to research effects of heat setting temperature on the properties of knitted polyester fabrics,especially the effect on anti-blood coagulation.The structures,activated partial thromboplastin time(APTT),prothrombin time(PT),blood platelet adherence property,water-absorbing property and dyeing property were tested on heat-set knitted polyester fabrics at different temperatures.The results showed that with rising of the heat setting temperature,the shrinkage rate of the fabric in transverse and machine directions increases.The water-absorption,anti-blood coagulation and dyeing properties of the fabric become the worst when heat setting is conducted at 150℃.By comparison of APTT and PT,can see that the heat setting of the fabric greatly inhibits its activation of exogenous coagulation factor PT.

Thermosol dyeing of polyester fabrics with high light fastness vat dyes

CHEN Weiguo;DAI Jinjin;WANG Junsu;JIA Chengtong;WANG Zhiyong;MENG Zhaocheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  82-86. 

Abstract ( 2852 )   PDF (1171KB) ( 582 )   Save

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To provide more dyes with high light fastness for selection for polyester dyeing,thermosol dyeing of polyester fabrics were performed with vat dyes with high light fastness.The effects of dyeing parameters on K/Svalue on polyester fabrics were investigated.The color fastness to rubbing,washing and light on cotton and polyester fabrics dyed with same vat dyes,in which there are similarK/Svalue between them,were compared.The results showed that medium dyeing color depth could be obtained with these vat dyes in thermosol dyeing,and theK/Svalue of polyester fabrics increased with the rising of curing temperature,liquid uptake,dye concentration,and addition of thickening agent and urea to the dyeing liquids.The fastness of rubbing and washing on polyester fabrics dyed with these vat dyes was slightly lower than that on cotton fabrics,while they had similar light fastness.

Dyeing property of kaolin-modified polyester fibers

李唯唯;陈国强;张瑞欣

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  87-90. 

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为提高聚酯纤维的染色性能,用高岭土对聚酯纤维进行改性,并探讨改性后聚酯纤维的一些基本染色特性,包括染色温度对上染百分率的影响、不同应用性能染料的升温上染特性和不同结构的分散染料在改性聚酯纤维上的提升性能。实验结果表明:高岭土改性聚酯纤维在较低温度下具有良好的可染性,可在100~110℃染色,高岭土改性聚酯纤维的染色转变温度比普通聚酯纤维低,应选择较低的始染温度;杂环结构的分散染料在高岭土改性聚酯纤维上的提升性并不好,这与普通聚酯纤维的提升性规律有所不同。

Relationship of the wrinkle recovery angle and temperature of fabrics finished by shape memory polymer

LIU Xiaoxia;HU Zifeng;HU Jinlian;WANG Shanyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  91-93. 

Abstract ( 1102 )   PDF (1175KB) ( 514 )   Save

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Under the hot environment the changing of wrinkle recovery angle(WRA) of fabrics finished by shape memory polymer with temperature is discussed.The result shows that under both hot water and air environment the fabrics can respond to temperature with a significant increase of the WRA at stimuli temperature about 60℃.It indicated that at about switch temperature the shape memory fabrics remember its set shape and recover to flat shape.Under the same temperature the wrinkle recovery time in hot air is much longer than in hot water due to the different coefficients of heat transmission.Nonlinear regression analysis method was used for finding the relationship between the wrinkle recovery angle and the temperature of shape memory fabrics in hot environment.The result shows that there is logarithm relationship between them.The function of the wrinkle recovery angle with temperature in hot water isy=3.446 7x0.557 9,and the function in hot air isy=3.282 0x0.591 0.

Fragrant finishing of cotton fabric with lavender oil via β-cyclodextrin technology

ZHANG Yiyu;WANG Lu;C.CAMPAGNE;R.ABDESSEMED

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  94-97. 

Abstract ( 1805 )   PDF (1178KB) ( 485 )   Save

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For reducing the vapor pressure of volatile fragrances oil and increasing fragrance retention in functional textiles,fragrant finishing of cotton fabric is performed with lavender oil via inclusion technology using-βcyclodextin which has unique molecular structure and inclusion nature.The inclusion has been realized by immersion method under orthogonal experimental conditions.The influence of inclusion conditions on the ability of inclusion of-βcyclodextin has been studied.The lavender oil absorbed by-βcyclodextin is extracted by Soxhlet and its quantity is determined by the UV/VIS spectrometer.The results showed that the optimized inclusion conditions as follows: inclusion time 2 h,temperature 30℃,pH value 9 and quality proportion between alcohol and water 1∶1.Under optimized conditions,lavender oil included by-βcyclodextrin reaches up to 81.65% of-βcyclodextrin on the cotton fabric grafted by 5%-βcyclodextrin,this shows that the ability of inclusion of-βcyclodextrin is satisfactory.

服装工程

Application of paper pattern to the knitting technology of sweater

YAO Xiaolin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  98-102. 

Abstract ( 1081 )   PDF (1242KB) ( 558 )   Save

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The paper puts forward the theory of combination of pattern design and knitting technology for the design of various styles of knitted sweater and offers the ways how the pattern is converted into the knitting technology,including zigzag line converted by curve,straight line converted by curve,application of vertical line segment and the effect of knitting machine.By converting the pattern into knitting panel based on the knitted technology,products of knitted sweaters with fresh and distinctive style can be acquired and the shape of the style can be achieved better according to this theory.The combination can open up thoughts for design and enrich fashionable styles of sweaters.

Structure design of the lapels

WU Houlin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  103-107. 

Abstract ( 1290 )   PDF (1376KB) ( 639 )   Save

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Through analyzing the principle of structure design and providing with practical cases,the paper expounds the method of the notched structure.With the basic lapels′structure design as foundation,the collar type is drawn up when viewing directly and the paper is folded along the back line,disposing of the grading allowance relations between the collar out selvage and the neckline.The research indicates that this method is suitable for style changes of each kind of the lapels′design,flexible in application,easy to learn,and very practical.Being characterized by abandoning the mathematical computation and the experientialism,it makes possible that the collar bottom line and its outer selvage profile vary with moldings,and matches with the collar folding perfectly.It is reasonable in structure and offers high percentage of successful design.

Evolvement of the Hakkas women′s costume

LIU Yunjuan;CHEN Dongsheng;GAN Yingjin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  108-112. 

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tarting from the history of Hakkas branch,based on Wang Dong′s viewpoint that"language formation"is the symbol of formation of Hakkas(he considers that Hakkas formed in the mid-term of Ming dynasty),it divides the history of Hakkas women′s costume into three periods,and summarizes its costume style and characteristics of each period.The first period starts from the mid-term of Ming dynasty and comes to end at the late Qing dynasty during which the Hakkas women′s costume forms and the costume style shows basically the same character with central plains and has some similar characters with the minorities of South China.The second period is between late Qing dynasty &amp; early Republic of China when Hakkas women′s costume becomes matured and Hakkas traditional costume style and culture have formed basically.And the third period originates from early Republic of China and ends in the middle of 20th century when Hakkas women′s costume gradually dies out and the traditional costume coexists with the modern costume.

Application of BP nerve network in suit pattern design

WU Jun;WEN Shengjun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  113-116. 

Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (1303KB) ( 618 )   Save

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This paper used the artificial nerve network to research the design of suit pattern.Take the specifications and sizes of the finished suits as the input parameters,while the sizes of the detailed parts as the output parameter,then train the nerve network point by point to approach their nonlinear mapping relation.Here,the approaching function of arbitrary function of the nerve network is used to obtain the approximate function relation,and establishes the BP nerve network model for suit pattern design.The simulation results indicated that the research affords the theory and technology referrence for the realization of 2-D patterns produced automatically for the garment styles and that of intelligent garment production.It is a new attempt to associate the apparel science with the information processing science,which will bring new vitality to the research of apparel production technology.

机械与器材

Broken filaments detection device for viscose filaments

LI Dejun;LIU Jie;WU Zhouqiao;WANG Shuibing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  117-120. 

Abstract ( 1134 )   PDF (1330KB) ( 514 )   Save

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The paper introduces a method for real-time detecting broken filaments in the process of winding viscose filaments.By illuminating viscose filaments,the broken-filaments will become an enlarged image on the sensitive surface of the photo electricity sensor,and the image will weaken the luminous flux of photoelectric cell,by monitoring the signal,the system can detect and count broken filaments.Based on this concept,designed a kind of device for detecting broken filaments for viscose filaments based on the circuit detecting principle.It used single chip process 89C51 as the host and accomplish broken filaments detection and counting by the circuits of signal processing,counting,power governing,displaying,and implementing and driving.It has been proven by practical running that the device is characterized by reliable and stable operation,compactness and low cost.

Design of a textile transmission properties detecting system based on VC++

CHEN Benyong;HAN Weizhi;ZHANG Liqiong;CAI Xiaoxi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  121-124. 

Abstract ( 1049 )   PDF (1447KB) ( 430 )   Save

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After analyzing the index parameters of the optical properties of textile,including the spectrum band eigenvalues,ultraviolet protection factor,and attenuation coefficient,a textile transmission properties detecting system is designed based on VC++ 6.0 by using PCI9812/10 data acquisition card as hardware platform and Microsoft Access as database.This system characterizes in an all-round way the optical properties of textile under different spectrum bands including ultraviolet light,visual light and infrared light.It realizes to evaluate protecting ultraviolet characteristic of textile according to the national evaluation criterion for solar ultraviolet radiation protective properties of textiles.This system provides technological reference for the textile designers and users.

Design of SD host controller in the system of weaving machine based on LPC2214

WANG Luyi;CHEN Zongnong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  125-128. 

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For improving the efficiency of pattern file importation and enhancing the ability of transplantation,a SD card host controller design program was brought up.The program was applied to the read and written of weaving machine pattern file.LPC2214 is chosen as the main control chip,and communication is executed with SD card through SPI interface.The interface circuit and equipment drivers are designed and achieved,and part of the schematic of interface circuit is presented.An in-depth analysis of the structure of SD card driver is conducted and the principle and function of every driver level are expounded.The code of important function and explanation of their functions are given.The process of writing and reading of pattern file are described,and a file administration task is developed on the basis ofμC/OS-Ⅱreal-time operation system.

管理与信息化

Computer simulation of three-dimensional preforms using track and column braiding

SHAO Jiang;WEN Weidong;CUI Haitao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  129-132. 

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Aiming at the simulation problem of three dimensional track and column braiding preforms,braiding scheme is introduced to depict the braiding mode based on the basic braiding principle.The braiding process is translated to a mathematic operation,then the movement of track and column braiding is simulated.The thread path is described by Bézier curve,thus the 3-D braiding preforms is derived using computer graphics technique.This paper brings forward a new way for braided fabric structure simulation for three dimensional track and column braiding preforms,and the complicated simulation problem is solved.Finally,simulations of regular and irregular sections of braiding preforms structures are conducted and the results prove that the method is of availability.

Costume sales forecasting model based on CURE algorithm and C4.5 decision tree

WANG Ying;LI Renwang;LI Bin;ZHANG Zhile

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(9):  133-136. 

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Considering the fact that the present sales forecasting model can′t respond to the versatile and changing market and the needs of distributors in time,an appropriate CURE algorithm and C4.5 decision tree method is adopted to establish a new costume sales forecasting model.The CURE algorithm carries out grouping of similar items in terms of sales prospect,and the C4.5 decision tree finds understandable links between these clusters and selected descriptive criteria.Based on the test of 568 historical sales data and 326 new data,the performance efficiency of forecasting model is analyzed.Finally,aiming at the classification error of forecasting model,a further improvement method is given.