Table of Content

15 August 2008, Volume 29 Issue 8

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纤维材料

Studies on preparation of flame-retardant ploy(ethylene terephthalate) and its structures and properties

WEI Xuemei;ZHU Zhiguo;LIU Peipei;WANG Rui;ZHANG Dasheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 984 )   PDF (534KB) ( 610 )   Save

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Phosphorous-containing flame-retardant ploy(ethylene terephthalate) was prepared by incorporation CEPPA-EG which had been pre-synthesized from 2-carboxyl ethyl(phenyl) phosphinic acid(CEPPA) and ethylene glycol(EG) into the precondensate of bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate (BHET).With the help of IR,SEM,DSC,TGA and LOI,the structure,thermal,flammable and char forming properties of the product were investigated.The results indicated that the flame retardants were copolymerized into the PET chain.With the content of flame retardants increasing,the T_c of flame-retardant polyesters increased,while T_g and T_m showed a decreasing tendency.The flame-retardant property of polyesters also enhanced,as demonstrated by higher LOI and more uniform char granule.

Structures and properties of PET/PTT filament at different temperatures

XIAO Hong;SHI Meiwu;LIU Jing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  6-10. 

Abstract ( 1303 )   PDF (581KB) ( 509 )   Save

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Temperature is the key factor which affects the crimp appearance of PET/PTT filament.The effect of temperature on the structures and properties of PET/PTT filament is studied.The results indicate that the crimp shrinking rate of PET/PTT fiber increases and the crimp elongation rate decreases with temperature rising. No matter under dry or wet thermal conditions,the increasing of temperature accelerates the orientation of the fibers;the sonic orientation factors of both two monocomponent fibers and PET/PTT bicomponent fiber decrease,especially,the PET/PTT bicomponent fiber;also,the crystallinities of the two monocomponent fiber increase while the crystallinity of bicomponent fiber decreases significantly.Decrease in crystallinity leads to the rapid decrease of fiber orientation factor and makes the length of the fiber shrink.The shrinkage rate from disorientation increases and the crimp shrinkage resulted from the shrinkage differential of two components decreases.

Rheological behavior of water-soluble polyester

QI Qingying;CHEN Wenxing;QIN Weiming;LING Ronggen;SUN Fu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  11-14. 

Abstract ( 1336 )   PDF (623KB) ( 574 )   Save

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The water-soluble polyester(WSP) was synthesized from PTA,EG and SIPE by copolycondensation.The rheological behavior of self-produced WSP was studied with Rosand RH7 capillary rheometer.The results show that the shear viscosity of WSP declines and the non-Newton index increases with rising of the temperature.Under the same conditions,the shear viscosity of WSP is higher than that of PET.The shear viscosity of WSP is more sensitive to shear rate than PET.The viscoflow activation energy declines with increase of shear rate.The influence of the third monomer SIPE and temperature on rheological behavior was also investigated.

羧甲基甲壳胺纤维的吸湿性能

QIN Yimin;ZHOU Xiaoqing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  15-17. 

Abstract ( 957 )   PDF (670KB) ( 360 )   Save

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chitosan fiber;carboxymethylation;absorption;wound dressing

Effect of alkali pretreatment on selective oxidation of cotton fibers

WANG Hao;LIN Hong;CHEN Yuyue

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  18-22. 

Abstract ( 1137 )   PDF (707KB) ( 494 )   Save

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In order to improve the aldehyde production quantity of oxidized cotton fibers,the pretreatment of cotton fibers with sodium hydroxide was performed before selective oxidation in this paper.The structure and properties of selective oxidized cotton fibers before and after alkali pretreatment are compared.The results show that after alkali pretreatment,the chemical structure of the cotton fibers has little change.While the cellulose crystal has been transformed from cellulose I to II structure and the crystallinity has been decreased constantly with increasing alkali concentration to 25%,which has greatly improved the accessibility and the reactivity of the cotton fibers.FT-IR study shows that the intensity of the aldehyde absorption peak for the oxidized cotton fibers after alkali pretreatment exhibits stronger than that before pretreatment.Under(8 g/L) and(32 g/L) NaIO_4 conditions,increasing alkali concentration enhances the aldehyde group content of the oxidized cotton fibers and decreases gradually the crystallinity of the samples.However,at higher concentration of alkali and oxidant,the increment of the aldehyde content and the degradation degree of cotton fibers slows down during the oxidation process.

AFM observation on the surface morphology of ZnO/Ag/ZnO multilayer films deposited on fiber substrates

LIU Jiangfeng;DENG Bingyao;GAO Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  23-26. 

Abstract ( 1143 )   PDF (730KB) ( 620 )   Save

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The Ag films,ZnO films and ZnO/Ag/ZnO multilayer films deposited on PET fiber substrates were prepared by magnetron sputtering at room temperature.The surface morphology of the nano-structured films was observed by using atomic force microscopy(AFM).Its electroconductive property was measured and analyzed.Results showed that the density and uniformity of Ag film became better as the thickness of the film increased to 20 nm from 10 nm.The surface morphology of fiber substrate was different from that of ZnO film substrate when they had same thickness growth of Ag film on their surfaces.The uniformity of Ag film deposited ZnO film substrate was better than that of Ag film deposited fiber substrate,and the particle of Ag film of the former was bigger,and more uniform.Also,the surface morphology of fiber substrate was different from that of Ag film substrate when they had same thickness growth of ZnO film on their surfaces.The resistivity of multilayer films was decreased as the thickness of the Ag film was increased.The resistivity of multilayer films reached to the minimum value when the thickness of Ag film was 20 nm.

纺织工程

Study on the stress relaxation mechanism of air jet vortex spun yarns with naturally colored cotton

LIANG Fangge;CHENG Longdi;LIU Yan;LIU Xiaozhen;SHAO Nan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  27-29. 

Abstract ( 1079 )   PDF (875KB) ( 376 )   Save

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Based on the four-element model,the equation of the stress relaxation process is developed using the principle of Boltgation superposition in this paper.Stress relaxation experiments of air jet vortex spun and ring spun yarns made of naturally colored cotton are measured.The regressive equation of the stress relaxation of yarns is calculated using Origin 7.5 based on the model of the stress relaxation,and the stress relaxation mechanism of air jet vortex spun yarn is explained.The results show that the theoretical value is conformed with the experimental results very well,and this model can forecast the relaxation properties of yarns.The relaxation time of air jet vortex spun yarns is relatively short,so the elasticity is smaller.Through predicting the relaxation property of the yarn spun with naturally colored cotton,the hand feeling of its product can be improved.

Digital image processing method of yarn black board

ZHOU Xuanli;CHENG Ling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  30-34. 

Abstract ( 924 )   PDF (938KB) ( 562 )   Save

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图像处理;纱线黑板;纱线条干;纱线直径

Relationship between the extrudation moisture regain of sized yarns and size pick-up

TANG Junyun;ZHAO Qiming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  35-37. 

Abstract ( 1320 )   PDF (816KB) ( 340 )   Save

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浆纱;高压上浆;预湿上浆;上浆率;压出回潮率

Manufacture of controllable luminous fabric and characterization of the luminance

CHEN Yuanyuan;YANG Bin;JIN Zimin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  38-41. 

Abstract ( 1268 )   PDF (928KB) ( 468 )   Save

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In order to develop a fabric with good luminous effect and easy manufacture,PMMA core optical fibers with end luminescence are woven with common textile fibers according to a certain fabric weave.The optical fibers′ surface weave forms a pattern.And then surface treatment is performed on the portion of the fabric which is desired to be luminous.The fabric is integrated with electronic circuit and embedded with electronic elements.The light emitting diode(LED) is used as illuminant in the fabric.The mixture reagent of hexane and acetone that brings good side-glowing luminance is used to treat the optical fibers′ surface.The luminance performance of the fabric is tested.And the results show that it has obvious luminous effect.The luminous fabric designed in this paper can be used in stage decoration,household textiles,and warning signal fields.Further research may be directed to the development of flexible fabric display with it.

Influence of fabric structure on its thermal comfort property in wet state

WEI Sainan;LIU Chaoying;LI Ruizhou;WU Huanling;ZHANG Changwei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  42-44. 

Abstract ( 963 )   PDF (873KB) ( 449 )   Save

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To compare thermal comfort properties of fabrics with different structures in wet state,KES-F tester was used to test the thermal comfort properties of both knitted and woven polyester fabrics in wet state.The results showed that along with the moisture increases,fabric instant cool feeling enhances,thermal conductivity performance is improved and warmth retention property declined.When moisture content is the same,the instant cool feeling of knitted polyester is more prominent than woven polyester.The braiding method has no influence on the rule that thermal conductivity changes with moisture content.The warmth retention property differs little between the knitted and woven polyester fabrics in dry state.However,when wetted,their warmth retention property differs remarkably.In comparison,it is found that the knitted polyester fabric is advantageous over the woven polyester fabric in warmth retention property.

Comparison of test methods for measuring water vapor permeability of fabrics

HUANG Jianhua;QIAN Xiaoming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  45-47. 

Abstract ( 1260 )   PDF (978KB) ( 470 )   Save

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At present,there are varieties of test methods available for measuring water vapor permeability of fabrics.They differ in measuring principles,test conditions,and measurement parameters.Five test methods were employed to evaluate the water vapor permeability of six different fabrics.The test results indicated the water vapor transmission rate obtained by the desiccant inverted cup method was the highest,followed by the new test method,the inverted cup method,and the upright cup method.In addition,the data obtained by the new test method are in good agreement with those obtained by sweating guarded hot plate,inverted cup method,and desiccant inverted cup method.Since this test method offers short test time,good repeatability,high sensitivity and small sample size,it is a very useful tool for routinely testing water vapor permeability of fabrics for quality control in textile plants.

Analysis of degradation properties of PLA/jute multi-layer composites

HAN Jian;YUAN Lihua;XU Guoping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  48-51. 

Abstract ( 1093 )   PDF (1710KB) ( 496 )   Save

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In order to investigate the degradation behavior of PLA/jute multi-layer composites,they were treated with buffer solution at various pH value.Relationship of degradation time with water absorption rate,mass loss rate and tensile strength of the composites were studied.The results showed that the water absorption rate and mass loss rate of the composites are dependent to a certain extent on the pH value of buffer solution and degradation time.Their degradation rate differs in weak alkali,weak acid and neutral media.Increasing degradation time increases the water absorption and mass loss but decreases tensile strength of the PLA/jute composites.After 80 days′ degradation,the tensile strength of the composites has decreased by 80%,75%,60% in alkali,acid,neutral media respectively.The composites have good degradation property.

Structures and mechanical properties of biodegradable PBS composites reinforced by jute fiber

QU Weiwei;YU Jianyong;LIU Lifang;LI Faxue;LIU Guozhong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  52-55. 

Abstract ( 1185 )   PDF (1008KB) ( 556 )   Save

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To solve the problem of environmental pollution and sustainable development issues,a biodegradable composite made from jute fiber and poly butylene succinate(PBS) was prepared by the method of molding,and the effects of fiber contents and alkali treatment on the properties of the composite were researched by mechanical property tests,FT-IR and SEM.The experimental results show that with the increase of jute fiber content,the tensile strength of the composite firstly increases and then decreases,reaching the maximum at the fiber content of 10%,which has increased by 30.1% than that of pure PBS.The tensile modulus,flexural strength and modulus gradually improve,which increase by 24.2%,185.5% and 107.7% respectively than those of pure PBS at the fiber content of 30%.Compared with the surface of jute fiber before alkali treatment,the one after alkali treatment was rougher since it was partly eroded,i.e.,a certain amount of lignin,wax and oils covering on the surface of jute fiber was removed by alkali treatment.So the alkali treatment improves the mechanical property of jute fiber reinforced PBS composites.Especially,the flexural modulus of the composite with alkali treated jute fibers significantly increases by 58% over the untreated jute composite.

染整与化学品

Influencing factor of fermenting conditions of hemp fast bio-degumming

WEN Lan;TANG Shouwei;PENG Yuande;YANG Xi′ai;YAN Li;XIONG Heping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  56-59. 

Abstract ( 1104 )   PDF (949KB) ( 329 )   Save

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For investigating efficiency of fast bio-degumming of selected hemp strains(No.Dm111),different fermenting conditions including inoculum sizes,proportion of water/hemp,pH value,shaking rate and degumming assistants have been adopted in comparison experiments.The results indicated that the best bio-degumming conditions for hemp: the proportion of water/hemp is about 1∶15,inoculum size is about 20%,pH 6.5-7.5,shaking rate is(150 r/min),the degumming assistant is 0.05% NH_4H_2PO_4.Among of these factors,the proportion of water/hemp and degumming assistant are the key factors.

Modification of wool fibers using ionic liquid

YUAN Jiugang;FAN Xuerong;WANG Qiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  60-62. 

Abstract ( 942 )   PDF (1065KB) ( 635 )   Save

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1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride ionic liquid which has a good solubility for wool keratin is used to improve the dyeability of wool fibers.The morphology and weak acid dye uptake rate of the wool fibers which had been subjected to ionic liquid treatment for different durations were investigated,and it was found that the scales of the treated wool fibers were eroded and their dyeability was improved considerably.The eroding degree of wool scales deepened and the dye uptake and dyeing rate improved as the time of treatment prolonged.Thus,modification of wool fibers using ionic liquid makes low temperature dyeing of wool possible.

Wearability of linen fabrics after liquid ammonia/crosslinking treatment

FENG Jiahao;ZHANG Hua;LI Jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  63-66. 

Abstract ( 1151 )   PDF (1107KB) ( 371 )   Save

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Crease recovery angle,shrinkage,comfortable and mechanical properties of the linen fabrics after liquid ammonia and crosslinking treatments were measured and the effect of process conditions on the wearability of treated linen fabrics was analyzed.The results revealed that liquid ammonia treatment of linen fabric has slight effect in improving its crease recovery,shrinkage and bending modulus.However,liquid ammonia and crosslinking treatment of linen fabric improves its appearance considerably.Although the moisture regain,air and moisture permeability are decreased by crosslinking treatment,the comfort properties of liquid ammonia/crosslinking treated linen fabric are better than the untreated one.The liquid ammonia pretreatment can significantly enhance the strength retention of the crosslinking treated linen fabric.

Stability of lac pigment

WANG Xiangrong;HOU Xueni;DING Lei;CHENG Wanli

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  67-70. 

Abstract ( 1100 )   PDF (1075KB) ( 298 )   Save

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School of Material Engineering;Soochow University;Suzhou;Jiangsu 215021The stability of lac pigment under different conditions such as temperature,pH value,metal ions,oxidants and reducing agents was investigated by spectrophotometric methods for the purpose of providing a theoretical basis for its utilization in dyeing of textiles.The results showed that the lac pigment color changed with the pH value of solution;and temperature had little influence on it in acidic condition;oxidant,reducing agent,and alkali were disadvantageous to its stability;Ca²⁺、Cu²⁺、Al³⁺、 Fe³⁺、Fe²⁺、Zn²⁺、Sn²⁺could complex with lac pigment,alter the color of pigment solution;lac-Fe²⁺complex was confirmed by infrared absorption spectrum.;China

Study on union-color of one-bath dyeing of silk/cotton and silk/flax fabrics with reactive dyes

LIN Heming;HUANG Zhenjia;SHEN Yifeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  71-74. 

Abstract ( 987 )   PDF (1101KB) ( 464 )   Save

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In order to simplify the process of one-bath dyeing of silk/cotton and silk/flax fabrics to get a consistent color with high color fastness,one-bath dyeing of silk/cotton and silk/flax fabrics with three kinds of bifunctional reactive dyes—M type,Cibacron FN and Cibacron LS was performed.The impact of dyeing process and mixture of dyes on the shade of the dyed fabrics was investigated.The result shows that color uniformity of silk/cotton and silk/flax could be greatly improved in one-bath dyeing when suitable dyes and dyeing process parameters are adopted.

Electrochemical dyeing with reactive dyes without salt

WANG Haiying;YUAN Yinxia;SHI Min;HUANG Haiming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  75-77. 

Abstract ( 1176 )   PDF (1076KB) ( 611 )   Save

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An electrochemical dyeing method without salt used on cotton fabrics has been studied for the purpose of reducing the amount of salt in reactive-dyeing process.Some factors,such as applied voltage,beginning temperature of dyeing and electrified time,have been discussed.Relationship between K/S value obtained from the electrochemical dyeing of fabric without salt and these factors was analyzed especially.Compared with the general salty dyeing method,the electrochemical dyeing method without salt could raise the uptake of dyes remarkably.In addition,this method not only increased K/S value but also decreased the environment pollution which might be caused by general salty residual dye liquids.

福建省科技计划重点项目(2006H0031)

WANG Lan;JIN Fujiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  78-80. 

Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (1089KB) ( 415 )   Save

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For the purpose of prediction of dye uptake rate and improving the quality of dyed products and utilization of dyestuff,this paper,based on analyzing actual experimental data of dye uptake rate,determined the key factors influencing uptake rate as follows: the concentration of dyestuff,dyeing time and temperature.Then,a single characteristics model of relation between the three key factors and uptake rate was established.Finally,a prediction model of multivariate nonlinear regression was developed and more accurate prediction of dye uptake rate was realized with it.The results predicted by the model of multivariate nonlinear regression show in good agreement with actual values,and the feasibility and validity of this method have been verified by practical experimental observations.

Preparation and application of fluorinated acrylate emulsion

Preparation and application of fluorinated acrylate emulsion

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  81-84. 

Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (1127KB) ( 491 )   Save

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Fluorinated acrylate polymer(PAFBA) emulsion was synthesized from dodecafluoro-heptyl methacrylate(R_fAA),butyl acrylate(BA) and 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate(HPAA) with(NH₄)₂S₂O₈ as initiator through emulsion polymerization.The structure of PAFBA film was characterized by FT-IR.The surface morphology of cotton fiber treated by PAFBA was observed by using scanning electron microscopy(SEM),and its application performance was also investigated.The results show that the PAFBA film on cotton fibers can improve the water contact angle of cotton fibers to(128.0?°) and prolong static hygroscopic time to more than 6 hours.Adding suitable amount of(Zn(CH₃COO)₂ to the finishing agent,water-repellent properties of the treated cotton fabric can be improved significantly.When the (Zn(CH₃COO)₂) dosage remains unchanged,the dosage of PAFBA emulsion also has impact on the water-repellent properties of the treated fabric,the best dosage of PAFBA emulsion is(2 g.)

服装工程

Upper garment of lady′s suit: structure characteristic indexes and their mathematic models

YAN Yuxiu;ZHU Jianghui;TAO Jianwei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  85-89. 

Abstract ( 1356 )   PDF (1201KB) ( 498 )   Save

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Based on upper garment′s detail sizes of lady′s suits,the samples are divided into four kinds: loose type,semi-loose type,semi-fit type and fit type by cluster analysis.Then characteristic indexes of upper garment structure of lady′s suit are extracted by using the methods of principal component analysis and correlation analysis.By adopting stepwise selection regression analysis,multivariate linear regression models are established.The expert knowledge of garment outline types,pattern characteristic indexes and their mathematic models of upper garment structure are obtained.The results provide theoretical basis for rational choice and determination of specifications in women′s garment structure design and lay a foundation for building auto-generation system of pattern size of the upper garment.

Grading rules of bra pattern

LUO Qin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  90-92. 

Abstract ( 2689 )   PDF (1293KB) ( 846 )   Save

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It is essential for the underwear enterprise to make industrial patterns before cloth cutting and production.The quality of underwear product depends on whether the pattern is accurate or not.This thesis focuses on the rule of bra patterns′ grading.According to the pattern principle of bra,the grading rule of cup and ring,can find the general grading rule of the same-type bra.The general grading rule of the same-size bra can be found by researching on the human body size in different cup shapes and comparing the same-size bra with the same-type bra in the progressive change relations of pattern.

Grey statistics evaluation of factors influencing sewing quality

SHEN Yue;CHEN Yan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  93-95. 

Abstract ( 957 )   PDF (1144KB) ( 443 )   Save

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Scientific and rational evaluation of a variety of factors which affect the sewing quality of garment is one of important issues discussed by managers of enterprises and customers.By using the grey statistics evaluation method,mathematical model is constructed to evaluate sewing quality and influencing factors including the skills of technical staffs and operators,the condition of sewing equipments and workshop environment.The results of evaluation are analyzed and the proposals for necessary adjustment of sewing workshop are presented.It can be concluded that the grey statistics evaluation provides a good evaluation method for both enterprises and customers.

Analysis of the silk fabrics in The Dream of the Red Chamber

ZHOU Liyan;SUN Wei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  96-100. 

Abstract ( 1116 )   PDF (1312KB) ( 579 )   Save

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Referring to the Chinese classical literature Dream of the Red Chamber,which carries a great deal of depiction on the dresses in the Ming and Qing dynasties,try to make an in-depth study on the Chinese dress characteristics and related cultural connotation in the period of late Ming and early Qing dynasties.Starting from color applications,habiliment characteristics and flower patterns of the silk fabric in the literature,this article discloses the development status and cultural connotation of flower patterns of the silk fabrics through reproducing and analyzing the occasions and sceneries in the original works.These findings will give us certain help in understanding of the textile development status,apparel and decoration system,and cultural features of the Qing dynasty.They are also beneficial to digging out and developing our conventional silk culture and to accelerating the development of modern silk industry.

机械与器材

PLC-based control system design of overweight dobby loom

ZHOU Baoming;MA Chongqi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  101-104. 

Abstract ( 1208 )   PDF (1277KB) ( 515 )   Save

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This paper describes the software and hardware composition of the overweight dobby loom control system,there are 20 harnesses whose lifting is controlled by 20 air cylinders on the dobby device,and 3 shuttle boxes on both right and left sides of the loom,the gearing of shuttle box on each side is controlled by 2 air cylinders and the direction of picking is controlled by one electromagnet.The specific method on the overweight dobby loom′s control system is realized,the loom shaft angle is fed back by a photoelectric encoder,the input and edition of electric pattern card is realized and all process parameters are displayed on human-machine,so the loom is provided with multi-function such as electronic dobby device,electronic multi-shuttle box control and picking control.Besides,the loom′s working sequence and the flow chart of control system is given.

Design of weaving machine based on multi-layer finite state machine

LIU Gang;CHEN Zongnong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  105-108. 

Abstract ( 1180 )   PDF (1335KB) ( 486 )   Save

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For improving the performance and competitive power of the weaving machine′s control system of our country,in this paper,the movements of electronic dobby rapier weaving machine were analyzed.Based on multi-layer finite state machine concept,which manages control tasks in a structural,hierarchy way,the software control system of electronic dobby rapier weaving machine was designed.The state transition relations of electronic dobby rapier weaving machine were clearly defined.And the corresponding design processes were given in detail.Phillips′s LPC2214 was chosen as the main chip,which is based on ARM microcontroller,to design the hardware platform for implementing the complex process control of electronic dobby rapier weaving machine,while μC/OS-Ⅱ real-time operation system was used to design the software.

Application of integral-separation PID control algorithm in PLC-based tension control system

LI Ge;JIA Yuanwu;ZHANG Hua;ZHAO Yun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  109-112. 

Abstract ( 1915 )   PDF (1268KB) ( 559 )   Save

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The wrap-up tension system adopts traditional control results in integral calculus backlog of controller,control quantity exceeding the limit,system bigger overshoot,or even a system surge,this is absolutely not allowed in production.Therefore,the integral-separation control algorithm is applied to programming controller to control tension.When compared with conventional control algorithm,it improves control performance effectively.It is simulated by MatLab with built-in Simulink software package.The subsystem package of integral-separation is accomplished and the simulation model of tension control system established.The results of simulation indicated that this method improves the accuracy and efficiency greatly,reduces the overshoot and is highly valued for engineering application.

管理与信息化

Establishment of green design assessment system for textiles

NIU Zengyuan;YE Xiwen;TANG Zhixu;LU Mei;ZHOU Yulin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  113-116. 

Abstract ( 1084 )   PDF (1366KB) ( 458 )   Save

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Regarding textiles as general industrial products such as household appliance,auto and machinery and electronic articles,the author identifies the distinct environmental factors in textile′s green design project by analyzing different processes of the life-cycle of textiles,such as raw material,manufacture,packaging,transportation,use,disposal,and recycle in terms of environment,resource,energy,technology and economy.The evaluation criterions and relevant quantificational and qualitative limits are determined.An assessment system is proposed,which help designers to evaluate and make decision during green textiles designing.

Study on information shared mechanism for polyester industry

DING Xianghai;CHEN Chouyong;YU Fumao;TANG Renzhong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  117-120. 

Abstract ( 993 )   PDF (1341KB) ( 344 )   Save

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The paper addresses information shared mechanism for polyester industry in terms of the value,obstacles,and objective.The information shared mechanism for polyester industry is designed and described.The mechanism can be realized through an information management system whose functions include the validation and analysis of data provided by enterprise,the judge of enterprise credit level,etc.The information shared level and scope of an enterprise depend on the fee it has paid and its credit level.Its advantage lies in the fact that it satisfies the information shared requirement for the polyester supply chain and harmonizes the relationship among the polyester enterprises.

Method of selecting suppliers for an apparel enterprise

JI Xiaofen;HU Jueliang;ZHANG Dimeng;PANG Chen;CAI Liling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  121-124. 

Abstract ( 1255 )   PDF (1339KB) ( 555 )   Save

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To an apparel enterprise,the supplier selection is an important strategic decision-making.A reasoning and scientific selection method may guarantee the correct decision-making.With the consideration of available information disordered from the apparel supply chain,linguistic variables were introduced and each linguistic variable was valued by trapezoidal or triangular fuzzy number.In addition,index weights were determined by the help of information entropy and modified by analytic hierarchy process,evaluating the supplier quantitively.Then,TOPSIS was used to select apparel suppliers.Compared with the previous methods,the new evaluation and selection method,having the advantages of integrating the subjective experience and objective science,can make evaluating process more scientific and operational.In the end,trial operation of the new method was performed and its validity and feasibility have been verified.

Practice of garment ASP platform construction

DING Wenjie

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  125-129. 

Abstract ( 1039 )   PDF (1376KB) ( 395 )   Save

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Basic principle of clothing ASP platform is used to analyze the feasibility of small garment enterprise information improvement,and according to ASP platform structure and composition,clothing ASP platform construction should focus on pure ASP in practice.Considering our country clothing production,management and administration,the key to pure ASP applications is systems development and integration,and security issues and services should not be overlooked,such as project selection and optimization.At the same time,ASP hiring practice of clothing enterprises in the northwest region with the model of mass apparel customization,the platform provides the system of clothing sizes,clothing CAPP,design resource database,system of decision in production,production lines arrangement, the clothing grading system,online customization and so forth,the service is effective in practice and it has set a model for garment enterprises in other regions.

综合述评

Sweating design in different thermal manikins and their measurement methods

CHEN Yisong;XU Jun;FAN Jintu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(8):  130-134. 

Abstract ( 1266 )   PDF (1387KB) ( 483 )   Save

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Perspiring thermal manikin is proved to be an effective approach to evaluating heat and moisture transmission performance in the study of clothing thermal comfort.This paper reviewed the development of perspiring or sweating thermal manikins with clear classification,and their design principle of sweating systems and corresponding measurement method have been described in detail,as well as their possible differences in results.Through analysis,concludes that the passive water supply perspiring way and one step measurement method is an advanced and promising approach in measurement of clothing thermal insulation and vapor resistance simultaneously without any hypothesis and will be recognized more in later perspiring thermal manikin development.