Table of Content

15 February 2007, Volume 28 Issue 2

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纤维材料

Research on grafting of mixed monomer onto linen by plasma treatment

LI Chun;REN Liang;WANG Ying;YU Na

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  1-4. 

Abstract ( 1065 )   PDF (119KB) ( 507 )   Save

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The grafting of mixed monomer of acrylic acid and styrene onto linen fabric was carried out by dielectric barrier discharge low temperature plasma treatment,aiming at reducing homopolymer,increasing graft yield and improving the dyeability of the treated linen fabric.The optimum conditions were defined: plasma treatment time(4 min,) discharge voltage(13 kV,) frequency 3 kHz,grafting at (60 ℃.) Infrared spectrum and X-ray diffraction were used to characterize the grafted substrate,and the reaction mechanism was also researched.The results showed that the acrylic acid and styrene mixed monomer is grafted onto the linen macromolecule,and the dye-uptake of the grafted linen fabric for cationic dyestuff is improved.

New method of electro-thermal regeneration on activated carbon fiber

LI Yonggui;JIAN Chao;GE Mingqiao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  5-7. 

Abstract ( 1044 )   PDF (107KB) ( 495 )   Save

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For reducing using cost of activated carbon fiber(ACF) and promoting its application,a new regenerating method was developed.With formaldehyde as media,dynamic adsorption and electro-thermal desorption were used to investigate the electro-thermal regeneration behavior of ACF with emphasis on factors influencing electro-thermal regeneration of ACF.The experiment results revealed that the saturation value of adsorption of formaldehyde on ACF wad was(299.5 mg/g,) the time of electro-thermal regeneration was(5 min,)the efficiency of electro-thermal regeneration was(91.3%,) and the loss of ACF was small.It was proved that electro-thermal regeneration of ACF was a relatively ideal method characterized by short regeneration time,high regeneration efficiency,little loss of adsorbent and easy operation.

Application of resin embedding technology on cross-sectional slice of fibers

ZONG Yaning;YAN Xiaoyan;WU Xiongying;WANG Shanyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  8-10. 

Abstract ( 1167 )   PDF (152KB) ( 955 )   Save

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The characteristics of acrylate resin embedding are introduced,and a quick embedding method based on pre-polymerization technique is researched with a view to reducing the shrinkage and embedding time of resin.The slicing procedure for textile fibers is described.The micrographs of resin slice and Hardy′s thin cross-sections of hollow polyester fiber and kapok are obtained and their cross-section characteristic parameters are compared.And micrographs of cross-sections of some textile fibers are presented.

Antistatic performance of ZnO whisker in polyacrylonitrile(PAN) fiber

ZHANG Haibo;QIN Gang;WU Chengxun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  11-13. 

Abstract ( 942 )   PDF (133KB) ( 482 )   Save

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The microstructure of as-spun PAN fiber is analyzed,and a novel method for improving PAN(fiber′s) antistatic performance is investigated,that is,adding a bath of aqueous emulsion suspended with ZnO whiskers before coagulation bath and making the whiskers diffusing into the as-spun PAN fibers.The antistatic result of the aqueous emulsion suspended with single-pod ZnO whiskers are better than that of the aqueous emulsion suspended with tetrapod ZnO whiskers.When the time PAN fibers stay in the aqueous emulsion suspended with single-pod ZnO is(20 s,)the specific volume resistivity of PAN fiber reduces to(4.5×10¹⁰ Ω·cm,)and when the time is(60 s,) the specific volume resistivity reduces to(4.1×10⁸ Ω·cm.)

Development of durable water-repellent PP/PE heat-adhesive fiber

SUN Shiyuan;ZHAO Qingfu;XUE Yuan;JIANG Xiaowei;DOU Haiping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  14-16. 

Abstract ( 1146 )   PDF (111KB) ( 618 )   Save

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This article introduced the spinning materials and equipment,spinning and post-treatment processes and related key parameters of the durable water-repellent PP/PE heat-adhesive fiber.The water-repellent finishing principle and technique as well as the recipes were elucidated.The water repellency of the fiber produced according to the above processes was tested.The results showed that the fiber has been imparted good mechanical and heat-adhesive properties,and excellent durable water repellency.It will find wide applications in the medical and health-care field.

纺织工程

Luster and structure of Optim fiber and its blended fabrics

YANG Jianzhong;LI Bo;LU Lu;LI Wei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  17-20. 

Abstract ( 1329 )   PDF (155KB) ( 554 )   Save

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The morphology of Optim fiber and Optim cloth was observed by scanning electron microscopy(SEM),and the compressibility and luster of the fabric were measured.The cluster analysis of fabrics was carried out.The results showed that the fibers of Optim cloth have fewer crimps,the shape of the fibers becomes from elliptical to somewhat polygonal,and the distance between scales of the wool fiber is enlarged.The Optim cloth has a compact structure,smaller average compressed thickness,larger intensity of reflection light and diffuse reflection light,stronger contrast gloss,and good luster and smoothness.The cluster analysis of the fabrics shows that the quality of Optim cloth lies between the fine wool fabric and fine wool/silk blended fabric,and the Optim cloth has silky luster.

Effect of fabric structure parameters on its heat transfer property

WU Haijun;QIAN Kun;CAO Haijian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  21-23. 

Abstract ( 1067 )   PDF (117KB) ( 1048 )   Save

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The influences of structure parameters such as thickness,average float,and cover factor on the heat transfer of the fabric were investigated.By means of correlation analysis,the rule of the heat transfer varying with fabric structure parameters was attained.The CLO value of the fabric increases with fabric thickness,but when reaching to a certain extent,its increase margin drops.The larger the average float,the greater the CLO value,its increase margin also drops.However,instead of increasing the CLO value,too large an average float makes CLO value downwards.Increasing fabric cover decreases the CLO value,but increases the heat transfer.Contrarily,decreasing fabric cover factor increases the CLO value,but decreases the heat transfer accordingly.

Property test and analysis of the bamboo pulp fiber knitted fabric

ZHOU Rong;WU Baoping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  24-26. 

Abstract ( 963 )   PDF (119KB) ( 578 )   Save

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For having a better understanding of the characteristics of bamboo pulp fiber products and enhancing the research and development level of this kind of products,the paper selected a group of fabrics consisting of bamboo pulp fiber knitted fabric and other cellulose fiber fabric with similar specifications and their properties were tested.The results indicated that the bamboo pulp fiber product has a soft hand,well draping,lustrous surface,nice air and moisture permeability,good wicking effect,and good anti-bacterial and ultraviolet resistant effect.Especially the three component fabric made of core-spun yarn with polyester filament as core wrapped by bamboo pulp fiber and cotton blend have significantly improved crease resistance and strength while retaining the good properties of the bamboo pulp fiber.Its serviceability indexes are close to or exceed those of Tencel fabric.In addition,the precautions for developing knitted fabrics with bamboo pulp fiber are presented.

Comparison between time-frequency analysis methods of yarn signal

ZHU Kaiyu;YAN Cunliang;ZHANG Mincong;XIAO Guolan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  27-31. 

Abstract ( 942 )   PDF (279KB) ( 444 )   Save

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This article expounds a novel time-frequency analysis method,i.e.,the Hilbert time-frequency analysis based on Hilbert-Huang transform,and its application to yarn signals.Taking the wool top signal as an example,the article makes a comparison between the short time Fourier transform,wavelet analysis and Hilbert spectrum analysis.The results show that Hilbert spectrum analysis presents a more precise description of yarn signal than the short time Fourier transform and wavelet analysis,so that it can reveal more precisely the variation of energy of yarn signal with frequency and time fields.By analyzing the time-frequency of yarn signal,instantaneous frequency variation can be obtained and then online spectrum analysis of yarn signal can be carried out to perform real-time supervision of the conditions of process and equipment and detection of the abnormality during processing.

Woven fabric density measure based on adaptive wavelets transform

HE Feng;LI Liqing;XU Jianming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  32-35. 

Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (234KB) ( 556 )   Save

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By using computer image processing and analysis,a method to measure woven fabric density is developed in this study.Firstly,the fabric image is pre-processed by Wiener2 and histogram equalization to make more clear the fabric texture features;Secondly,the pre-processed woven image is decomposed into horizontal and vertical sub-image based on adaptive wavelet;Thirdly,the features are extracted from the sub-images through some treatments like smoothing;Finally,the fabric density can be obtained by analyzing these features of warps and wefts of the fabric.The experiments have proved that this method can exactly measure the density of three kinds of woven fabric with basic structure.In addition,this paper also presents how to construct the adaptive wavelets.

Computer simulation of woven fabrics

MA Chongqi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  36-39. 

Abstract ( 906 )   PDF (234KB) ( 370 )   Save

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Some shortcomings associated with the existing CAD softwares when simulating plain colored fabrics are analyzed,and the mathematics model for yarns is set up.Based on the glisten principle of woven fabric floats,the mathematics model for glisten brightness is given in which the glisten brightness of each point on the float is correlated with yarn bending,twist direction,yarn section shape and so on.The methods of calculating and creating fabric simulation are presented and the simulation picture of plain colored woven fabrics is shown.After optimizing these mathematics models,the vivid reality sense of simulation picture may be resulted.

Data transmission of textile detection system based on LabVIEW

LIN Feng;LUO Sijie;CHEN Qingguan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  40-43. 

Abstract ( 937 )   PDF (194KB) ( 410 )   Save

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A method of achieving the serial communication of textile detection system based on LabVIEW is introduced,including communication protocols,hardware circuit,software design etc.The master computer of the communication system,PC,is programmed by LabVIEW,which is convenient for its graphic programming language.PIC microcontroller produced by Microchip corporation is used as the slave computer,programmed by assemble language.The communication between the master computer and the slave computer takes advantage of RS-232 protocol which can shorten development cycle with low cost.Meanwhile,applying this to temperature measuring system of cocoon cooking machine accomplishes the data transmission successfully.The communication system characterized by simple operation will find many possible uses in the portable textile detection system.

Determination of alkylphenol(AP) and alkylphenol polyethoxylates(APEO) in textiles by HPLC

ZHANG Weiya;LI Lixia;WANG Chengyun;LIU Caiming;FAN Xiurong;TANG Lichun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  44-47. 

Abstract ( 1821 )   PDF (120KB) ( 567 )   Save

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In order to break down the technological barrier set by the European Union and to ensure the export of textile products,a simple and rapid HPLC method was described for the simultaneous determination of the residues of AP and APEO in textiles.The residues of octylphenol(OP),nonylphenol(NP),octylphenol polyethoxylates(OPEO) and nonylphenol polyethoxylates(NPEO) in the samples were extracted with methanol by Soxhlet extraction.The chromatographic separation conditions and the pretreatment conditions were optimized.The detection limit was(0.010 mg/L) for OP,(0.020 mg/L) for NP and OPEO,and(0.050 mg/L) for NPEO at(S/N=5.) The recovery ranged from 96.82% to 103.39% while the RSD was ranging from 1.04% to 5.48%.This method is applied in the analysis of some textiles exported to the European Union and the results demonstrates that this method can fully satisfy the demand of the analysis of textiles for export.

Sputter coated nano-ZnO film on PET substrate and its ultraviolet radiation transmittance

HOU Dayin;LI Liangfei;WEI Qufu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  48-51. 

Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (474KB) ( 477 )   Save

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The textile material with the surface deposited with zinc oxide can increase its anti-ultraviolet property.In this paper,ZnO film was deposited on PET nonwovens substrates by RF magnetron sputtering.The morphology and the structure of the sputter-deposited film were characterized by atom force microscopy(AFM) and the energy-dispersive X-ray(EDX).The results showed that it formed a multi-layer film containing only two elements—Zn and O.The nano-scale ZnO in the film distributed evenly and compactly.The ultraviolet-visible photometer tests showed the ZnO film had good ultraviolet screening ability with little influence to the transmittance of visible sight.

Microstructure and conductivity of nano-structured silver films deposited on PET fabric

WANG Hongbo;ZHAO Xiaoyan;HONG Jianhan;DU Chu;JIN Zhao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  52-55. 

Abstract ( 937 )   PDF (137KB) ( 452 )   Save

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Nano-sized silver film of(50 nm) thickness was deposited onto PET nonwoven fabric by magnetron sputtering,and the effect of technical parameters,such as sputtering power,vacuum pressure,on the morphology and particle diameters of the nano-structured silver thin film was analyzed by AFM.The relationship between sputtering parameters and the conductivity of the sputter coated films was also investigated.The results showed that along with the increase of pressure,sputtering velocity increased first and then decreased.The change rule of the film′s square resistance was the same as that of sputtering velocity.Similarly,the average diameter of the films′ particles increased first and then decreased along with the increase of pressure,but when pressure was above(1.5 Pa,) it changed erratically.

AFM and transmittance analysis of nonwovens deposited with ZnO film

DENG Bingyao;YAN Xiong;WEI Qufu;XU Wenzheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  56-59. 

Abstract ( 1010 )   PDF (382KB) ( 540 )   Save

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A magnetron sputter coating was used in this study to deposit zinc oxide(ZnO) nanostructure film onto the nonwoven substrate.Atomic force microscopy(AFM) was employed to analyze the effect of RF magnetron sputtering parameters (power,pressure,time) on the microstructure of transparent ZnO film built on the nonwoven substrate.The transmittance of samples was examined by an UV/VIS spectrophotometer.The results demonstrated that increasing the coating time increases the evenness and compactness of the film.Higher power used accelerates the growth of the film,however,too high a power is not recommended.Excessive working pressure results in the deformation of the grown ZnO grains on the fiber surface.The nonwoven substrate exhibits much better UV absorption as the coat thickness increases.

染整与化学品

Effect of dispersibility of SiO₂ nanoparticle on mechanical property of starch film

WU Min;WANG Meng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  60-63. 

Abstract ( 938 )   PDF (125KB) ( 487 )   Save

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In order to investigate the effect of dispersibility of SiO₂ nanoparticle on the mechanical properties of SiO₂ nanoparticles/starch film,the aqueous suspension of the SiO₂ nanoparticles,which had been dispersed by the ultrasonic technique in different duration,was observed by atomic force microscope(AFM) and transmission electron microscope(TEM).The mechanical properties of the film varying with the dispersibility of SiO₂ nanoparticles as a result of difficult duration of ultrasonic treatment were examined.The result indicated that SiO₂nanoparticles dispersed by the ultrasonic technique for 50 minutes exhibited good dispersibility and stability,and the film prepared with this dispersion also had optimal mechanical properties.

Improvement of moisture absorbency of naturally colored cotton fiber by pectinase treatment

HUANG Gu;CHEN Li

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  64-66. 

Abstract ( 1217 )   PDF (97KB) ( 490 )   Save

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This research work was undertaken with a view to improving the moisture absorbency of the naturally brown and green cottons by treating them with pectinase Scourzyme L.Treatment conditions were varied as a function of pectinase concentration,temperature,duration of treatment and pH value.The moisture regain of the naturally colored cottons after treatment was tested.The results revealed that provided that other treatment conditions remain unchanged,the optimum moisture regain of the green and brown cottons can be achieved when pectinase concentrations are 0.5% and 0.6%(o.w.f) for the green and brown cottons respectively.With respect to the treatment temperature,(50 ℃) for the green cotton and(60 ℃) for the brown is optimal.Increasing treating time increases the treatment efficiency,and the proper pH value ranges from 8 to 8.5,otherwise enzymatic activity can not be brought into full play during the treatment.

Reactive pad dyeing of pure cotton fabric with polycarboxylates as promoter

GUAN Yu;ZHENG Qingkang;LUO Lirong;SHAN Juchuan;LI Yuanhui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  67-70. 

Abstract ( 1049 )   PDF (118KB) ( 554 )   Save

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The paper was aimed at investigating the possibility of using polyacrylate and polymaleate in the pad dyeing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes in place of Na_2SO_4 as dyeing promoter.For this purpose,K/S values,color fastness and strength of the dyed cotton samples were measured and contrasted.The feasibility and dyeing promotion mechanism of polycarboxylates in the pad dyeing were also discussed.The results showed that when dosage of polycarboxylate is(50 g/L,) the K/S value,fastness properties and strength of the dyed fabric are comparable to those with Na_2SO_4 as dyeing promoter.

In-situ growth of anatase nano-TiO_2 on cotton fabric and its UV screening property

WANG Mingyong;MAO Zhiping;LI Rui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  71-75. 

Abstract ( 1025 )   PDF (141KB) ( 572 )   Save

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The white cotton poplin was applied with TiO_2-SiO_2 sol by double-dipdouble-nip method at room temperature,followed by hot water(98～(100 ℃))treatment for 20 min,and then air-dried.The testing of UV transmittance and ultraviolet protection factor(UPF) of the treated fabric showed that its UV screening property improved significantly.The SEM,AFM and XRD were used to characterize the TiO_2 on the cotton fabric.It was observed that the size of anatase TiO_2 on the cotton fabric was about 30 nm.The standard test to washing showed that the nano TiO_2 in-situ growth on the cotton fabric had excellent fastness to washing, and after 10 washing cycles its UV screening property even enhanced instead of decreasing.

Light-heat conversion thermal storage material and textiles thereof

LI Junsheng;MA Xiaoguang;ZHANG Xiaolin;XIA Shaobai;TANG Zhuxian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  76-80. 

Abstract ( 1052 )   PDF (140KB) ( 471 )   Save

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This paper studied the thermal property of two kinds of light-heat conversion thermal storage materials CR-1 and CR-2,and through comparison,CR2 was selected and applied to textiles by means of coating technique to develop a new textile with thermal storage function.The influence of the percentage of CR2 in coating agent,coating weight on fabric,radiated area etc.on the thermal property of the fabric was investigated and the coating process was optimized.The thermal storage power of the coated fabric under the sunlight and its physical and mechanical properties were tested.It was found that CR-2 was an ideal thermal storage material and the adopted finishing process had little effect on the strength of the fabric.

Supervising and controlling network for dyeing process based on multi-Agent

ZHANG Jianxin;ZHONG Tingxiu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  81-84. 

Abstract ( 857 )   PDF (197KB) ( 481 )   Save

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Aiming at the diversified and spread dyeing and printing machines and supervising and controlling systems brought about by scaling-up of production in dyeing enterprises,a new type of dyeing process supervising and controlling system(S&C) based on multi-Agent technology is proposed.The heterogeneous dyeing machines and software systems are interconnected through fieldbus under the framework of hierarchy structure and their functions of heterogeneous networks integration is implemented by the multi-Agent technology.Furthermore,the model and framework of multi-Agents of different layers are discussed.This multi-Agentbased system can be integrated with different ERP systems,process management systems and dyeing control systems,thus realizing the integration of enterprise management and control function,and quick change manufacturing(QCM).

Automatic metering and dosing control system based on PLC

JIA Guixi;JIA Shuya;CHE Xuezhe

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  85-88. 

Abstract ( 1047 )   PDF (123KB) ( 716 )   Save

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After analyzing the traditional process of dyeing and problems associated with it,the paper pointed out that nonlinear metering and dosing of assistants are required for the current dyeing technique.For this reason,an automatic control system of metering and dosing based on PLC(programmable logic controller) is designed in which the nonlinear metering and dosing of assistants is realized by combination use of the frequency changer and the PLC.A detailed discussion is made on the structure of the system,its working principle and process,and hardware and software design.The results of its application show that the dyeing quality is improved remarkably.

服装工程

Correlation of physical properties of fabric and silhouette of sleeve

LIU Chengxia;CHEN Weilai;LIU Meifang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  89-91. 

Abstract ( 912 )   PDF (125KB) ( 457 )   Save

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The 13 common fabrics are used and made into sleeves with same pattern.And professionals are invited to evaluate the silhouette of the sleeves.The method of correlation coefficient and stepwise regression are used to study the relationship between physical properties of fabric and silhouette of the sleeves.The study shows that in fabrics′ specification parameters,thickness has the closest relation with silhouette of sleeve.In FAST parameters,extensibility and compressibility have closer relationship with silhouette of sleeve,and the (warp-wise) extensibility is more significant than the weft-wise,especially,warpwise extensibility under(0.98 N/cm) has the closest relation with silhouette of sleeve,whereas bending ability has little relation with it.

Influence of jean performance on forming of puff sleeve

YUAN Fei;LIU Chengxia;WANG Chunyan;SHAO Lifei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  92-94. 

Abstract ( 999 )   PDF (130KB) ( 468 )   Save

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7 kinds of jean and the puff sleeves made of these jean fabrics were tested respectively for their performance parameters,and mathematical statistics was used to investigate the influence of the performance of jean on the gathering quantity and integral shape of the puff sleeves.The results showed that in the case the factors affecting the gathering quantity and integral shape of the puff sleeves,fabric thickness is in the first place,and draping and weave density ranks the second.Thus,when using different kinds of jean to make puff sleeves,fabric thickness should be taken into consideration first for designing the amount of gathering and rising of puff sleeves,then the draping and weave density.Fabric thickness has positive influence to puff effect and firm stand of sleeves.

Influence relationship between clothing structure designing math model positions in stepwise regression

ZOU Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  95-99. 

Abstract ( 1065 )   PDF (114KB) ( 462 )   Save

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The mathematics model used in the past for the traditional clothing structure design was linear equation with one unknown,and two-variable linear equation was seldom adopted.As the complexity of human being′s body,the pass rate of mathematics model is rather low,failing to meet the development needs of intelligence.This paper,through the calculation of stepwise regression by C++,proposes to develop clothing structure math models of the relationships between 6 key parts(neck girth,chest girth,waist girth,hip girth,shoulder width and body height) and other 31 parts.The results of regression model of various parts of different types are compared,so as to find out the relationship between the parts and the rule of influence and provide a technical basis for CAD of intelligent clothing.

Fuzzy clustering analysis of body type in 2D non-contacted body measurement system

WANG Yuxiu;LI Xiaojiu;LIU Hao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  100-103. 

Abstract ( 987 )   PDF (120KB) ( 456 )   Save

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In the 2D non-contacted body measurement,the size of body girths can only be acquired indirectly by data transform from 2D to 3D.In order to increase the precision of the prediction of girth size,it is necessary to develop different prediction models in accordance with body types.To avoid the information overlapping,the principal component analysis is undertaken to sum up the initial 24 independent variables and reduce them to 4 independent variables for objective and comprehensive evaluation of body types.The function of fuzzy clustering analysis is used to make classification of body types whose prediction models are established respectively.The samples are classified on the principle of the maximum membership and the classification cluster validity are verified by F-statistic and the value of clustering validity function.And the optimal number of classification is determined through practical application.

Study of the folk dress symbolization of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze

CUI Rongrong;GAO Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  104-107. 

Abstract ( 910 )   PDF (111KB) ( 543 )   Save

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From a viewpoint of art and culture,this paper studied the folk dress symbolization of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze.It illuminated in the light of symbology principle that the folk dress of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze was not only daily consumer goods,but also a symbol system of folkcustom culture.On the one hand,it was shown visually by a series of medley plastic signs,color signs,and decorative craft signs of pleats;and on the other hand,it implied notes in explanation of the origination and development of the folk dress,which were closely associated with the rice planting depending lifestyle and culture,such as the folk religion,social life,art and philosophy,local culture,and the geographical and humanity environment of waterside villages.It was concluded that the folk dress was the sign of serviceability and also the sign of folk traditional culture,the two jointly constituted the dress cultural symbol system of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze called ″integration of aesthetics and practicality″.

Analysis of the application of the form beauty of peony pattern in the folk clothes

ZHANG Jing;ZHANG Jingqiong;LIANG Hui′e

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  108-111. 

Abstract ( 1020 )   PDF (229KB) ( 992 )   Save

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Based on the collection in the Folk Garments Biography House of Southern Yangtze University,one thousand or more collected apparels were researched. The article expatiates systematically the layout of peony patterns and representation in the folk finery shape,its expression in neoteric folk garments and application in modern fashion design.It aims to provide much more broad thinking for the application of Chinese traditional peony pattern in modern fashion design and offers new referential methods and approaches to the ornament techniques of modern costumes.

机械与器材

Design of the magnetic weft-inserting mechanism for a new type sample weaving machine

ZHOU Qisu;SHEN Shide

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  112-114. 

Abstract ( 1310 )   PDF (133KB) ( 514 )   Save

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In order to reduce operator′s labor intensity,adapt to the quiet environment of sample fabric design office,and weave an acceptable sample fabric with smooth selvedges,a type of rope pulling magnetism shuttle weft insertion mechanism is designed in which filling operation is accomplished in such a way that the back and forth movement of the weft insertion shuttle with weft tube is performed by the attraction force of the magnetic shuttle.This design adopts the magnetic force actuation technology after analyzing the design request of the sample weaving machine and the characteristics of different weft-inserting ways.The cam drive in the groove is adopted for the weft insertion mechanism and computation method of the traction force of the magnetism shuttle is discussed.The new type sample weaving machine manufactures sample fabrics with smooth selvedges and makes very small noise.Other potential applications of the rope pulling magnetism shuttle weft insertion mechanism are also discussed.

Embedded industrial Ethernet system of electronic jacquard based on ARM

WU Zhenqian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  115-118. 

Abstract ( 1037 )   PDF (131KB) ( 547 )   Save

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To improve network control ability of homemade electronic jacquard,a new project of electronic jacquard network control system in which technology of Embedded Industrial Ethernet System is integrated,is developed based on present electronic jacquard control system.In this work,the popular chipset RTL8019AS is applied as embedded Ethernet interface;the popular real-time embedded system μC/OSⅡ integrated with network stack and management task as fundamental software platform;and the popular ARM processor LPC213X with rich extendable hardware interface as core microprocessor of the whole system with specific firmware of μC/OSⅡ integrated.As experimentation arguing,this system is stable with nice human-machine interface and perfect network control function.

综合述评

Fundamental issues in the expression for wool weak-links

YU Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  119-122. 

Abstract ( 825 )   PDF (180KB) ( 406 )   Save

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Wool weak-link affects the wool quality and its end-use value.However,the evaluation of wool weak_link was only qualitative and indirect because of its indistinct definition.Therefore,this paper makes a clear expounding of the definition,expression and way of measurement of wool weak-links.The key to confirm the causes of weak-links is to express correctly the morphology,structure and tensile behavior of wool weak_links from theoretical and practical aspects.The unique and effective method to characterize the weak-link is to adopt a combined analysis of the properties and morphology of the same fiber.The new approach can be used as an important criterion in the objective evaluation of wool quality,and it can be also applied to other fibers.

Analysis of ancient Egypt woven and dyed fabrics

WANG Hua;SUN Li;ZHANG Shi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  123-125. 

Abstract ( 1289 )   PDF (222KB) ( 637 )   Save

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This paper introduced Egypt excavated Copt textile interwoven with flax and wool,and wax resist printed linen fabric manufactured in early days A.D. and the Middle Ancient Times as well as textile cultural relics originated from India or other places,analyzed the development of ancient Egypt weaving and dyeing in connection with the politics,economic,religion and culture at that time,described the main kinds of textile made of ancient Egypt and from overseas and their craftsmanship along with their influence on religious and social areas at different historical periods at ancient Egypt.At the same time,the prosperity of textile trade also reflected the social and economical conditions.So it may be summed up that the level of textile design and its weaving and dyeing can′t divorce from the objective reality of social environments.

Preparation methods and properties of silver-contained alginate fibers

QIN Yimin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(2):  126-128. 

Abstract ( 1246 )   PDF (168KB) ( 1251 )   Save

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For the purpose of combination of the antimicrobial effect of the silver ion with the high absorption properties of the alginate fibers,silver ions can be added into the alginate fibers to prepare silver-contained alginate fiber and wound dressing.This paper introduced various methods for adding silver into alginate fibers and analyzed the properties of silver-contained alginate fibers and wound dressings.The results showed that by incorporating fine particles of silver sodium hydrogen zirconium phosphate,the silver-contained alginate fibers can maintain white physical appearances whilst provide a sustained release of silver ions when in contact with wound exudates.Test results prove that these fibers are highly effective against bacteria.