Table of Content

15 March 2007, Volume 28 Issue 3

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纤维材料

Electrospinning of hybrid nanofibers of silk fibroin and gelatin

BAO Weiwei;ZHANG Youzhu;YIN Guibo;YU Qingliang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  1-4. 

Abstract ( 1129 )   PDF (134KB) ( 463 )   Save

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Silk fibroin(SF) and gelatin were dissolved in formic acid with different mass concentrations and the resulting spinning solution was electrospun into hybrid nanofibers whose morphology was observed by using SEM.The influence of technical parameters on the morphology and diameter of the hybrid nanofibers was investigated and a comparison was made between the hybrid nanofibers and pure SF nanofibers electrospun under the same process conditions.The results showed that hybrid nanofibers have an average diameter of(83.9 nm) and even distribution of fiber diameter when the proportion of SF to gelatin is(70∶30,) mass concentration of the spinning solution is 11%,polar distance is(13 cm,) and voltage is(22 kV.) The application of gelatin in the hybrid spinning solution is beneficial to solving such problems as breaking of fiber and beads appeared on fiber surface which are accompanied with electrospinning of SF spinning solution with low mass concentration.It will probably be applied in bioengineering.

Application of correlation analysis to determination of the mulberry silk content by NIR spectroscopy

WANG Xiaotian;CHEN Bin;NI Kai;JIN Shangzhong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  5-8. 

Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (120KB) ( 498 )   Save

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The method to determine the mulberry silk content in textile by near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy was studied.The effect of cross-correlation analysis in the quantitative analysis based on partial least squares(PLS) to improve the precision of the model had been proved.The results of blended data show that the predictive precision was enhanced by using cross-correlation analysis,the predicted average absolute error is less than 2.5(the predicted standard error is less than 1.5)and predicted coefficient is more than 0.996.It demonstrates that it is feasible to quickly analyze the mulberry silk content in textile on-line by near-infrared spectroscopy, thus providing a new,nondestructive and fast method for determination of mulberry silk content in textile.

纺织工程

Analysis of compact effect and yarn structure of compact Siro spinning

XIE Chunping;YANG Lili;SU Xuzhong;FENG Jie

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  9-12. 

Abstract ( 1441 )   PDF (125KB) ( 801 )   Save

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Combing the advantages of the compact spinning with Siro spinning,compact sirospun yarn possesses good performances of both the compact yarn and two-ply yarn,such as high strength,less hairy,compact structure and high abrasion resistance.The principle and features of the compact Siro spinning technology are introduced in this paper.Several profile suction pipes with different double slots are developed and applied to spin cotton yarns of same fineness.Though comparing the structure and performance of this cotton yarn with that of yarns by the compact spinning or the Siro spinning,the advantages of compact Siro spinning are further indicated.Finally,the results of these suction slots are evaluated by fuzzy mathematics,and the suction installation by which yarns with the best comprehensive performances are spun is selected.

Analysis of performance of untwisted yarn fabric

ZHAO Qingfu;JIANG Xiaowei;DOU Haiping;SUN Shiyuan;MA Huiying

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  13-15. 

Abstract ( 908 )   PDF (98KB) ( 529 )   Save

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This paper covers the test for the permeability,hygroscopicity,and shrinkage of untwisted knitted fabrics and makes a comparison with the relevant indexes of twisted knitted fabrics.The permeability of the untwisted knitted fabric is almost twice as much as that of the twisted fabric.The drying viscosity of the untwisted fabric is faster than that of the twisted fabric.This demonstrates that the untwisted knitted fabric has better air-permeable and moisture transmitting properties as compared with the twisted.In addition,the permeability,moisture transmittance,tensile strength,bursting strength,and draping of the untwisted woven fabric are also tested.The untwisted yarn fabrics have good serviceability and potential for development of new products.

Graft copolymerization of itaconic acid/acrylic acid monomer mixture onto poly(ethylene terephthalate) fabric

SONG Yituan;WANG Rui;ZHANG Dasheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  16-19. 

Abstract ( 1075 )   PDF (122KB) ( 426 )   Save

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Graft copolymerization of a mixture of itaconic acid(IA) and acrylic acid(AA) onto plain weave fabric of trilobal PET fiber was carried out with benzoyl peroxide as initiator in aqueous solution.The PET fabric had been treated with alkali before grafting.The influential factors of polymerization,such as reaction temperature,reaction time,initiator concentration and the molar ratio of the monomer mixture on grafting were studied and the optimum polymerization conditions were determined.The formation of the grafted fabric substrate was confirmed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and SEM photographs.The results indicated that as the grafting percentage increases,the grafted PET fabric exhibits enhanced moisture management performance and uptake rate of cationic dyes and the dyed grafted PET fabric has brilliant shades.

Properties of differential capillary effect of knitted sportswear fabrics

XU Ruichao;ZHANG Yiping;CHEN Li′na

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  20-22. 

Abstract ( 1066 )   PDF (101KB) ( 498 )   Save

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According to differential capillary effect of fabrics, various knitted functional sportswear fabrics are made of the moisture-transfer and dry-fast properties of abnormal cross section polyester filaments with common weaves and structures.The test results and comparative studies reveal that the larger the difference of the linear density per filament between the inner layer and outer layer of the fabric,the more prominent differential capillary effect of fabric.The differential capillary effect differs in fabrics with same linear density of the inner and outer layers fiber but different weave structures.The fabric with three-layer weave structure has the best differential capillary effect.

Application of transforming and allocating technology of narrowing and widening for woolen sweater

ZHANG Wulian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  23-26. 

Abstract ( 939 )   PDF (114KB) ( 441 )   Save

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The transforming and allocating technology of narrowing and widening for knitting woolen sweater is a new method in operation.For promoting its application,this paper makes a brief introduction of its expression way,operating process,and technical requirements including various adjustments and transforming technologies with detailed descriptions and examples.It demonstrates that this technology is concise in expression form,suitable for a wide spectrum of applications,and flexible in operation.

Evaluation of cleaning functions of fabrics made of superfine fibers

GAO Ming;ZHU Ping;DONG Ying

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  27-30. 

Abstract ( 1042 )   PDF (115KB) ( 694 )   Save

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In order to assess objectively the comprehensive cleaning functions of superfine fiber fabrics,testing methods aiming at dust removing rate,sterilization,water absorbance,oil absorbance,fiber falling off and water capillary effect were designed and used respectively in the assessment of cleaning functions of knit fabrics made of superfine fibers.Evaluation system of cleaning functions was created,on the basis of test results mentioned above,by fuzzy mathematics,with which seven kinds of target superfine fiber fabrics were evaluated for their cleaning functions.Results show that the cleaning functions of superfine fiber fabrics is much better than that of cotton fabrics,whereas FBZ fabric ranks the first among the superfine fiber fabrics.Superfine fiber fabrics with similar texture and design exhibit almost the same in cleaning functions.It is feasible and reliable to use the established fuzz mathematics system to evaluate the cleaning functions of superfine fiber fabrics.

Calculation of the thickness of knitted reinforced composites made from commingled yarns

FAN Zaixia;ZHU Limin;ZHANG Yu;CHEN Yanmo;LONG Hairu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  31-33. 

Abstract ( 923 )   PDF (133KB) ( 384 )   Save

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In order to ascertain the optimal molding thickness of knitted reinforced thermoplastic composites made from commingled yarns,equation for calculating its theoretical molding thickness is derived,which is expressed by the following factors:linear density and volume density of the reinforcing fibers and the thermoplastic mattress fibers respectively,pliers of the two single fibers in the commingled yarns,and total density of loops and loop length of the prefabricated knitted fabric made from commingled yarns.And the relationship between the theoretical molding thickness and the optimal molding thickness was decided through experiments,providing a reference for preparation of knitted reinforced composites.

Fuzzy evaluation of the mechanical properties of bamboo/flax composites

WANG Chunhong;WANG Rui;YU Fei;SHEN Lu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  34-37. 

Abstract ( 1070 )   PDF (131KB) ( 385 )   Save

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The composite materials were manufactured with the low melting point polyester(LMPET) and polypropylene(PP) as mattress and bamboo and flax fibers as reinforcement by nonwoven & heat molding technologies.Fuzzy evaluation method was undertaken to investigate the influence of fiber kind,fiber percentage by weight of the mattress and reinforcement on the mechanical properties of the composites. The fracture surfaces of composites were examined by scanning electron microscopy(SEM).The results reveal that the mechanical properties of the LMPET/40%bamboo fibers composite is the best with tensile strength(136.00 MPa) and(87.58 MPa) and flexural strength(534.00 MPa) and(470.00 MPa) in longitudinal and transverse directions respectively,outperforming the common engineering plastic.

Impact resistance of flax reinforced polypropylene laminates

LIU Liyan;HUANG Gu;WANG Rui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  38-41. 

Abstract ( 897 )   PDF (162KB) ( 493 )   Save

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Flax fiber was used as the reinforcing material to commingle with polypropylene (PP) filaments,producing a core-spun yarn with the flax as core and PP filament as outer sheath.The commingled yarns were woven into 2-D fabric which was used as the prefabricated material.By hot-pressing technology the prefabricated material was shaped into laminates.The fracture mechanisms and the factors affecting the impact resistance of the laminates were studied through analyzing the test results and fracture photographs.It showed that the impact resistance of the laminates with twill weave is prior to that with plain weave made by the same technological parameters.At the same time,the resin,reinforcing fiber,the number of layers and impact velocity all exert effects on the impact resistance.

Properties of the glass fiber reinforced composites in the water environment

HUANG Gu;SUN Hongxia

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  42-44. 

Abstract ( 903 )   PDF (119KB) ( 389 )   Save

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The purpose of this research is to investigate properties of the glass fiber reinforced composites under the water environment.VARI(vacuum assisted resin infusion) technique was employed to fabricate 2 and 3 layers laminates of glass fibre reinforced unsaturated polyester.Samples were immerged in distilled water for a certain period of time,and the tensile and bending properties of the composites were measured.The microphotographs of the cross sections of the composites before and after immersion in the water were shown in the paper and corresponding analysis was made.It is revealed that the tensile strength was declined with the increase of water immersion time,meanwhile,the bending strength showed a descending trend.

Comparison of the properties of calcium alginate wound dressing and cotton gauze

QIN Yimin;ZHU Changjun;FENG Deming;ZHOU Juan;WANG Panpan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  45-48. 

Abstract ( 1179 )   PDF (275KB) ( 674 )   Save

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This study compared the properties of calcium alginate nonwoven dressings and woven cotton gauzes.The absorption capacities,fluid spreading and moisture vapour transmission in solution A were measured.The results showed that because of the different chemical and physical structures,the properties of alginate dressing and cotton gauze differ a lot,hence these two products can be used on different types of wounds.Due to the high absorption capacity and the ability to control fluid spreading,the alginate dressings can be used on chronic wounds with high levels of exudates,while the cotton gauze can be used to absorb blood during surgery.

Alkali deweighting treatment of sea-island composite fiber nonwoven

ZONG Lihua;JIN Xiangyu;YIN Baopu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  49-52. 

Abstract ( 1108 )   PDF (125KB) ( 503 )   Save

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This paper studies the process of alkali treatment of COPET/PA sea-island type composite fiber nonwovens and analyses the influences of alkali concentration,reaction time and temperature,and bath ratio on weight loss percentage and the relationship between the weight loss percentage and tensile strength.The research shows that alkali concentration and temperature are important factors affecting weight loss percentage and tensile strength.Generally,weight loss percentage increases with the increase of temperature,reaction time,and alkali concentration.The optimal alkali treatment parameters for sea-island fiber nonwovens are determined∶bath ratio,1∶40,alkali concentration,(10 g/L),treating at(95 ℃) for(30 min).

染整与化学品

Mechanism of nanosized size-additive used in warp sizing

JI Huijun;FAN Xuerong;WANG Qiang;YU Juan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  52-56. 

Abstract ( 960 )   PDF (145KB) ( 482 )   Save

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In order to improve the sizing performance of starch sizes and decrease the dosage of PVA,nanosized inorganic size additives can be used in the formulation of starch solution.In the present work,the mechanism of nanosized inorganic size additive used in warp sizing was investigated by using SEM,AFM and FT-IR ATR.The results showed that the nanoparticulates can improve the smoothness and uniformity of starch size film and broken cross-section as well as the surface of sized warp yarns.Substantive hydrogen bonds between the nanoparticulates and starch molecules exist,which may be attributed to the enriched hydroxide groups on the surface of nanosized oxides.

New method for testing the repellent effect of anti-mite fabrics

PENG Hong;XIE Xiaobao;XU Hong;OUYANG Yousheng;CHEN Yiben

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  57-59. 

Abstract ( 889 )   PDF (154KB) ( 421 )   Save

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According to the physiological characters of dermatophagoides farinae,a new method for testing the repellent effect of anti-mite fabrics is proposed,which adopts individual cultivation of each sample in the culture dish with a cover closed,thus avoiding mutual interference between the sample and the control.The new method is used to test the repellent effect of a few kinds of antimite fabric,and the results are compared with that by the conventional method.It is proven that the new method is characterized by good reproducibility,fast and convenient,and more accuracy.

Research on near-infrared & visible camouflage for cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics

ZHANG Hui;ZHANG Jianchun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  60-63. 

Abstract ( 1139 )   PDF (159KB) ( 525 )   Save

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In order to obtain NIR camouflage,the cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics were dyed by using vat dyes and disperse dyes respectively.The results indicate that the vat blue L-MG and 83962 are of the same class.The near-infrared reflective spectra of the dyed fabrics are shifted to the long wavelength as the concentration of vat blue L-MG increases,and the amount of red shift is correlated to the peak value of visible reflective spectra.When the concentration of the dye is 1%～2%(o.w.f),the reflective spectra of the dyed fabric are very close to that of the green leaves in the NIR region.Except fabrics with satin or honeycomb weaves,the reflective spectra of the fabrics dyed with different dye concentration show no difference in the visible light region and very slight difference in the NIR region.The near-infrared reflective spectra of the dyed fabric are closely related with the dye which has the largest red shift in the NIR region.

Optimization of enzymatic finishing conditions of hand-made ramie cloth

PENG Yuande;TANG Shouwei;YANG Xi′ai;YAN Li;SHEN Jianxin;FU Wubing;XIONG Heping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  64-67. 

Abstract ( 1323 )   PDF (118KB) ( 480 )   Save

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For optimizing the process conditions of enzymatic finishing of the hand-made ramie cloth,high efficiency mixture of xylanase and cellulase was employed in the enzyme finishing of the cloth.The effects of enzyme dosage,bath ratio,temperature,pH value and duration of treatment on the finishing result were investigated.It demonstrated that the optimized process conditions of enzymatic finishing of the hand-made ramie cloth are as follows: 0.5% xylanase,0.5%～2% cellulase,bath ratio,1∶15,pH value at the range of 4.5～5.0,and treating at(50 ℃) for 1 hour.Among the factors influencing the finishing,cellulase concentration is in the first place,and followed by original pH value,the last is bath ratio.

Study on decoloration of reactive dye by chlorine dioxide

CHEN Shiliang;L Shenshui;WEI Lili;YAO Yuyuan;CHEN Wenxing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  68-71. 

Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (124KB) ( 425 )   Save

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To develop a more suitable method for oxidative decoloration of reactive dyes,the oxidative decoloration of 3 kinds of reactive dyes existing in dye effluent and colored textiles was carried out by chlorine dioxide(ClO_2).The results of decoloration were examined by using UV-Vis spectrum and colour measurement and matching instrument.They indicated that ClO_2 has exhibited rather good decoloration effect for dyes existing in aqueous solution and colored textiles at atmospheric temperature and pressure.After(1 hour′s) treatment with chlorine dioxide,the decoloration rate of the 3 kinds of dyes in the effluent is more than 95%,and the K/S value of colored textiles decreases evidently,this provides a new thinking for decoloration of colored textiles.

Crease-resistant finishing of cotton fabric with glyoxal and hydrolyzed starch

ZHANG Hongwei;ZHAO Haimei;WAN Yabo;WANG Huimin;MA Liwei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  72-75. 

Abstract ( 1229 )   PDF (119KB) ( 523 )   Save

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A plain weave cotton fabric was treated with the mixture agent of glyoxal and hydrolyzed starch to impart the fabric crease-resistant property.The influence of the amounts of hydrolyzed starch,glyoxal and catalyst,baking temperature and time on the fabric crease recovery angle and strength retention was discussed comprehensively through orthogonal experiment.The premium finishing technology was that,hydrolyzed starch(40 g/L),glyoxal(7 g/L),catalyst(40 g/L),baking temperature(140 ℃,) baking time(5 min.) Under these conditions,the crease recovery angle was increased by 30%～45%,and the breaking strength retention kept as high as 88%～95%.

服装工程

Application of KFDA in evaluation system of neckline performance

LI Xiaojiu;LIU Hao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  76-78. 

Abstract ( 902 )   PDF (116KB) ( 344 )   Save

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Neckline performance evaluation is an important part for knitted sweater.In order to implement classification automation of testing system,kernel Fisher discriminant analysis(KFDA) is proposed for identifying the grade of new testing samples.Classified samples are divided into two parts: training samples and testing samples.Input space is mapped into feature space by kernel function,projection vector is acquired and discriminant functions is constructed in feature space,subsequently,identification effect is verified by testing samples. Finally,identification effects of KFDA,back promulgation neural network(BPNN) and radial basis function neural network(RBFNN) are compared.Experiment results show that KFDA method is more effective for identification of new samples.

Application of two models certificating each other to evaluating the appearance retention of leisure trousers

ZHENG Pengcheng;WANG Xueqian;CHEN Di

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  79-83. 

Abstract ( 932 )   PDF (149KB) ( 451 )   Save

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KES tester,LFY-1 crease recovery tester and YG811 drapemeter are employed to gain fabric basic mechanical property indexes,drape coefficient and crease recovery angle.In the experiment,the data of appearance retention of leisure trousers are obtained through subjective assessment.Then,the fabric basic mechanical property indexes characterizing the leisure trousers appearance retention are gained through applying grey system theory.On the basis,according to subjective data of appearance retention of leisure trousers,fuzzy comprehensive evaluation and approximate grey element model are used to evaluate the appearance retention of the leisure trousers.The results indicate that the two models are effective and certificating each other.

Impact of the fabric performance on the rule of looseness of lapel collar

YANG Xiaomin;WU Zhiming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  84-87. 

Abstract ( 1202 )   PDF (118KB) ( 515 )   Save

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Designing the looseness of a lapel collar is not an easy work.In this research,the impact of the fabric performance on the rule of looseness of lapel collar is studied.Six kinds of fabrics commonly used for suits are chosen,and 16 mechanical properties of them are tested by KES-FB system respectively.Principal component analysis of the data obtained is conducted by SAS software,minimizing the variables from 16 to 3,i.e.,tensile recovery(RT),compressive resiliency(RC) and weight per unit area(W) of the fabric.Then,5 kinds of lapel collars are made with 6 kinds of fabrics.The length of the collar stand is(2.5 cm) without exception,while the width of the top collar is in the order 3.5,4.5,5.5,6.5,7.5 cm,and the relevant difference of top collar and collar stand width(H) is 1,2,3,4,5 cm.The suitable looseness is found out for each collar.Finally,the correlation of RT,RC,W,H and the looseness is investigated by regression analysis with SAS software,and some quantitative relationship is found.

Comparative study on body shape features of Korean and Chinese young women

GAN Yingjin;CHEN Dongsheng;LIU Yunjuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  88-91. 

Abstract ( 1143 )   PDF (116KB) ( 689 )   Save

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The measurement of 400 women aged from 20～39 from China and Korea were taken through scanning with Martin′s measuring apparatus and Karada scan to obtain the basic statistics of circumference items and body fat rate etc,and analysis of variance of the data obtained was performed by means of SPSS(10.0) package.It is found that in terms of body shape and body fat rate,the young women at the age of 20～39 both from China and Korea are quite similar.Finally,the conclusion is drawn through anthropometry that the indexes of obesity of both Chinese and Korean young women fall in the normal range.However,the body fat rate and body mass index(BMI) of Korean women were a little higher than those of Chinese women.This research was done with a view to presenting more exact data of body measurement for the clothing industry.

Prototype design and usage of weft knit women′s wear

LUO Qin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  92-95. 

Abstract ( 1149 )   PDF (133KB) ( 521 )   Save

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Most of the knitted wear manufacturers still use the traditional specification algorithms to make pattern.This method is short of adaptability and lack of theoretical basis,and the resulting apparel has some drawbacks in body fitness.The pattern of the knitted apparel is required not only to meet the functional needs,but also to guarantee the rationality and aesthetics of the style. Thus,the prototype design of weft knit(women′s) wear is created by a method combining the 2-D and 3-D design technologies and applied to the manufacture.This is meaningful for developing the pattern design theoretical system which is accommodated to the development of knitted apparel.

Application of the principle of psychological perceptions to student uniform design

WANG Ying;CHEN Yan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  96-99. 

Abstract ( 942 )   PDF (120KB) ( 627 )   Save

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By investigating the situation of school uniform in China,many problems in fabric,manufacturing quality,styling and size have been found,which have greatly disappointed students and their parents.In order to solve these problems and find out the needs and demands of students in psychology and physiology,the principle of psychological perceptions is tried for improving the design and quality of school uniforms.With "keep fit" as the primary requirement,perceptual factors such as sense of comfort,sense of safety and sense of beauty are taken into consideration and specified in designing school uniforms to satisfy the perceptual requirements of students from the selection of fabric right through to the garment structure and sewing quality.

机械与器材

Fuzzy-PID hybrid control of the work parameters of atomizing nozzle

ZHANG Zheng;WEI Junmin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  100-103. 

Abstract ( 997 )   PDF (142KB) ( 460 )   Save

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The pressure supply system of the atomizing nozzle,being characterized by nonlinear and time-varying,is rather difficult to be described by the accurate mathematical model.Effective control of the system is hard to realize by using normal PID or fuzzy control alone.In this paper,an approach of fuzzy-PID hybrid control is presented by utilizing the advantages of both normal fuzzy and PID controller for the purpose of improving the dynamic and steady state performance of the control system.Thus,the control of the pressure supply system of the atomizing nozzle is executed in such a way that in the region further away form the working point,it mainly depends on fuzzy control,and near the working point,it mainly depends on PID control.The simulation and experiment show that the hybrid controller is able to control the supplying pressure at the preset value efficiently.It features quick response,high steady state accuracy and perfect steady robust performance.

Application of the speed control technique by frequency conversion on the acrylic fiber production line

GE Suoliang;MENG Wei;CHEN Man

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  104-106. 

Abstract ( 944 )   PDF (116KB) ( 518 )   Save

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This paper describes the technical requirements,structure of electrical control system,and technical characteristics of the control system of the acrylic fiber production line.Targeting the regulation problem of the tension roller system of its control system during production,the theory base and design method of the closed loop PID regulation system are introduced.Based on the tension roller system mathematical model,the MatLab simulation is used to verify the correctness of the closed loop regulation system.The real-time monitor results show the feasibility of the closed loop system in practical engineering.

Embedded control system for computerized flat knitting machines based on Linux architecture

HUANG Xiangjun;LIU Meiqin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  107-110. 

Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (121KB) ( 460 )   Save

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Based on the analysis of construction and function of the control system of the computerized flat knitting machine,the paper proposes a design of an embedded control system based on ARM microprocessor,FPGA and Linux for the flat knitting machine.GPIO driver program provides the communication service between S3C2410 and EPGA,and knitting control program completes the whole process from the input of knitting file to the output of floriated pattern.GUI which is designed based on Qt/E provides us a brief and friendly interface.Compared with the traditional control systems,the developed system is characterized by proper design,high integration and easy transplantation.

管理与信息化

Production data collecting based on the model of controlling points in textile enterprise

LI Qian;GE Shilun;SHENG Zhaohan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  111-114. 

Abstract ( 1088 )   PDF (126KB) ( 394 )   Save

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During implementation of enterprise resource planning(ERP) in textile enterprise,owing to the constrain of traditional management idea and the limitation of automatic data collecting,production management and quality control remain a difficult problem,which attributes first and foremost to data collecting.This paper proposes to develop a model of controlling point′s management for collecting data of production and quality from the workshop,carrying out statistics and processing of the collected data and in-process quality analysis and tracing the cause leading the quality problem of a product.Practical use has proven that the ERP developed on this model can meet the requirements of information technology of textile enterprises,and it also exhibits good flexibility.

Main types and implementation methods of apparel mass customization

YANG Qinghai;QI Guoning;LI Xiangshuo

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  115-119. 

Abstract ( 920 )   PDF (263KB) ( 738 )   Save

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The technological system and guideline of mass customization(MC) are elaborated.The market requirements of apparel MC are analyzed.Main types of apparel MC are discussed.These types include customization for high-end customer,institution,retail store,foreign trade and standard apparel.The characteristics of each type of apparel MC and their implementation methods are discussed.These methods include rapid design of customized apparel,production management,customer relationship management,and manufacturing resources sharing between MC and batch production.Finally some typical cases of apparel MC are analyzed.

Function of life-style in promotion of brand value

ZHENG Miaoyang;WU Guanrong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  120-123. 

Abstract ( 994 )   PDF (111KB) ( 476 )   Save

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This paper applies the Masrrow effect and the theory of marginal utility to conduct analysis and investigation of the life-style of garment consumers,stressing that only the brand value of the clothing get promoted continuously,besides fulfilling consumers′ basic needs and providing an added value to the physical article,or even imparting it spiritual and cultural value to consumers′ social status,can a brand enjoy permanent reputation.Through discussing the consumer′s life-style to study brand value,we hope to facilitate the modification of the traditional orientation of a brand and open up new spectrum for promoting the clothing brand value.

综合述评

Research and development of energy storage and temperature regulating fibers and textiles

JIANG Mengjin;XU Jianjun;YE Guangdou;LI Shouqun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(3):  124-128. 

Abstract ( 958 )   PDF (121KB) ( 676 )   Save

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This paper reviews the recent developments of energy storage and temperature regulating fibers and textiles both at home and abroad including the principle of temperature regulation and energy storage with phase change materials and the characteristics of various kinds phase change materials.The principles of choosing phase change materials for fibers are expatiated.The methods of compounding them with fiber or textiles,such as composite spinning,hollow fiber filling,textile coating and micro-encapsulation,are exemplified and compared.The future prospects for phase change materials in fibers or textiles are anticipated.