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Table of Content

    15 December 2012, Volume 33 Issue 12
    • Analysis of alkali resistance and mechanical properties of polyester hollow staple fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 1009 )   PDF (1247KB) ( 530 )   Save
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      In order to analysis the feasibility of sodium hydroxide scouring treatment for polyester hollow staple fiber /natural cellulose fiber blended fabric, the effects of sodium hydroxide concentration, treatment temperature and time on the hollow structure and weight loss rate of the polyester were studied, and the relationship between weight loss rate and mechanical properties was also analyzed. The results showed that there was no visible change in fiber hollow structure when the sodium hydroxide treatment was controlled at suitable conditions, and the alkali resistance of the polyester can basically meet the needs of alkali scouring process of natural cellulose fiber. The weight loss rate was significantly affected by the treatment conditions namely sodium hydroxide concentration, treatment temperature and time, in which, the temperature was the most important effect. Furthermore, the breaking strength gradually decreased with the increase of the weight loss rate, especially when the weight loss rate was more than 6%.
      Discussion on technology to preserve pigment of naturally colored silk
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  5-9. 
      Abstract ( 752 )   PDF (1053KB) ( 455 )   Save
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      Abstract: For the problem of Naturally Colored Silk's pigment lost with the removal of sericin in refining seriously. In this paper, the main aim is to preserve the pigment of Naturally Colored Silk and color feature by?the?method?of?grafting,cross-linking?and?steaming. The effects of different methods and different conditions on relative weighting and color protecting extent percentage were investigated. The experiment results indicated that: it is favorable for increasing the relative weighting and highlighting the color depth by one-bath technology of first grafting then cross-linking. In this method, citric acid was used as acid medium, and diversification of color feature was insignificant. After pre-streaming, the technology of first grafting then cross-linking is obviously better than the technology of first cross-linking then grafting. Compared with the color feature of unprocessed fiber, the saturation of processed fiber was low down, and the color tone trended to green.
      Aldehydes filtering effect of tips of lit cigarettes made of bamboo charcoal fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  10-14. 
      Abstract ( 781 )   PDF (1107KB) ( 504 )   Save
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      Cigarette filter tip is made from bamboo charcoal fiber. Then simulate smoking and determine the content of aldehydes in mainstream smoke. We use acetone to extract the content of aldehydes in the total particulate matter adsorbed by filter tip. Results suggest that bamboo charcoal fiber can significantly reduce the content of aldehydes and the total particulate matter in mainstream smoke. As of bamboo charcoal fiber ratio in the filter tips increasing, the content of aldehydes gradually reduces and the content of aldehydes in acetone leaching solution gradually increases. The content of aldehydes in mainstream smoke adsorbed by charcoal fiber filters is 51.82% lower than adsorbed by acetate fiber filters.
      Relationship between the texturing entropy change and luster of air textured yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  15-18. 
      Abstract ( 999 )   PDF (768KB) ( 646 )   Save
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      The relative entropy value of yarn kept changing during the course of filaments texturing, due to the direct relationship between the relative entropy and the disordering degree, the textured yarns’ luster influenced badly by the disordering degree of the surface filaments was affected by its relative entropy remarkably. To show the inner reaction between relative entropy and the luster of the textured yarns among which ATY was chosen for its typical disordering structure and high surface disordering degree, here sizes of filaments were spun, tested and analyzed in a single factor plan. The results showed that, the air-jet texturing could introduce significant rise in the disordering degree (1.28 to 4.25) and the relative entropy (0.3 to 1.45), while the multi-differential shrinking rise these two factors in a softer manner; along with the kept rising of relative entropy and disordering degree, the yarns’ peak reflection ratio and reflection ratio kept going down, while the peak width was broadened, the luster was softened, the shinning effect was diminishing.
      Primary discussion on detection of yarn evenness based on digital image processing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  19-24. 
      Abstract ( 783 )   PDF (1502KB) ( 564 )   Save
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      In this paper, an approach based on digital image processing techniques to detect irregularity of yarn was proposed. Four different specifications of pure cotton yarn are taken as an example. Firstly, the yarn images were captured with MRS-4800M48U scanner. Then, the yarn images were treated sequentially with Wiener filtering, binaryzation and morphology opening operation. The clear images were obtained with no noise and the yarn diameters and the CV values of yarns can be calculated according to the treated images. The CV values based on this image approach were approximated to the results tested by Uster Tester. The experimental results show that the primary approach proposed in this paper to detect yarn evenness is feasible; the CV values of yarns can be detected by this digital method accurately and efficiently, which can show the yarn appearance quality objectively.
      Effects of cyclone on properties of ring spun yarns with different linear densities
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  25-29. 
      Abstract ( 897 )   PDF (1377KB) ( 522 )   Save
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      The cyclone would be installed on conventional ring spinning frame for processing different fineness yarns. In the process of yarn-spinning, the rotating airflow inside the cyclone can make an effect on the twisting formation of yarn, thus significantly reducing yarn hairiness longer than 3mm. The results indicated that although cyclone can effectively reduce yarn hairiness, not better improve yarn breaking strength and unevenness. The quality of different fineness yarns processed by the cyclone of yarn trajectory for 2 mm, air trajectory for 1.4 mm has improved. The improvement degree of 10 tex yarn properties including hairiness (>3mm), breaking strength and unevenness were better than the others’. This paper provides a reference for research on choosing the right size of cyclone to reduce hairiness and improve yarn quality.
      Method of designing irregular fractal weave based on IFS
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  30-34. 
      Abstract ( 657 )   PDF (1121KB) ( 445 )   Save
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      Based on IFS, a designing method of Irregular fractal weaves is studied this paper, for the limitations of L-system drawing fractal weaves. With VC++, the method takes basic weave as object to study, which has irregular weave points and great cycle, performs iterative operation of its weave matrix using Kronecker product, so generating its fractal weave more efficiently. On this basis, using self-similar structure which has multilevel fractal weave, a new design way of fabric weaves is explored, and from it some special texture effects with various styles have be obtained by selecting different coordinational weaves to fill fabric weaves for its appliation.
       Comparison of thermal stability and combustibility obetween PI and PPS needle punched fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  35-39. 
      Abstract ( 1112 )   PDF (1042KB) ( 471 )   Save
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      In this paper, we take three methods such as thermal analysis, limited oxygen index and cone calorimetry to analyse and compare the thermal stability and combustibility of both polyimide needle punched fabric and polyphenylene sulfide needle punched fabric. The results show that, the decomposition temperature of PI needle punched fabric and PPS needle punched fabric is 580℃ and 500℃ respectively, LOI is 40% and 35% separately , ignition time is 38s and 32s , the maximum of heat release rate reaches 62.6kW/m2 and 130.9kW/m2, and the smoke factor is 12MW/m2 and 35MW/m2. By the comparison of these factors, we can conclude that PI needle punched fabric is better than PPS needle punched fabric in the thermal stability and combustibility.
      Removal of on-cellulose component of bamboo material by formic acid
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  40-43. 
      Abstract ( 674 )   PDF (951KB) ( 325 )   Save
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      The removal effect of formic acid on the non-cellulose component of natural bamboo material was discussed. The results show that: the removal effect on non-cellulose component of bamboo material was significantly enhanced by the inorganic acid catalyst; hydrochloric acid’s catalysis effect was the best among nitric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Formic acid can effectively remove the non-cellulose component of bamboo material, but almost has no effect on the cellulose component. Formic acid’s concentration, reaction temperature and reaction time are three factors that have important influence on the removal ratio of non-cellulose component of bamboo material, through an orthogonal experiment, we concluded that the influence effect of the three factors is: concentration > temperature > time; The optimum treatment conditions were found to be: 0.3%HCl as the catalyst, 80% of formic acid, 100℃ and 2h of processing time; in this condition, the removal rate of 42.8%.
      Wrinkle resistant finishing of silk by acetylating
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  44-48. 
      Abstract ( 773 )   PDF (1082KB) ( 469 )   Save
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      In this paper, silk was acetylated to increase its wrinkles elasticity. The structure of acetylated silk was analyzed by infrared spectrum, X-ray diffraction and DSC. And the wearability was measured too. The results showed that acetylating silk could increase the wrinkles elasticity greatly. The crease recovery angle of slow and urgent respectively grew from 218°and 168 °to 210 °and 270 °. This suggested decreasing the capacity to form hydrogen bonds could increase the wrinkles elasticity of silk greatly. Infrared spectral analysis showed that the Beta-Sheet structure of the acetylated silk increased and part of amino decreased. X-ray diffraction analysis showed that the degree of crystallization of the acetylated silk increased. DSC analysis showed that the acetylated silk’s decomposition temperature and thermal stability increased. At the same time, the moisture regain, whiteness and breaking strength of acetylated silk kept well. Flexual stiffness of acetylated silk was improved a little.
      Dyeing thermodynamics of acrylic acid photografted linen fabric with cationic dyes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  49-52. 
      Abstract ( 974 )   PDF (867KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      The coloration of acrylic acid photografted linen fabric was performed using cationic dye (C.I.Basic Violet10). The Langmuir, Freundlich, Nernst models were used to describe the adsorption isother of acrylic acid photografted linen fabric. The affinity, heat of dyeing, entropy of dyeing and other thermodynamic parameters were calculated. The results showed that adsorption isotherms of cationic dyeing onto photografted linen fabric correlated with the Langmuir model well. The affinity was found to increase with the temperature increasing, which means the larger transfer trend and greater driving force. The positive values of heat and entropy of dyeing indicated an endothermic dyeing process and increasing degree of disorder on dyeing of C.I.Basic Violet10 onto photografted linen fabric.
      Effects of ultrasound wave on associating state of weak acidity Oprah Red B dye
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  53-57. 
      Abstract ( 1097 )   PDF (951KB) ( 404 )   Save
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      The associating state of dyes in solution plays an important role in dyeing. The effects of ultrasound on dye associating state was studied in terms of the determination of conductivity and absorption spectrum of the dye liquor in this paper. The results showed that the maximum absorption wavelength(λmax) of the dye solution exhibited a blue shift with the increase in the concentration of Weak Acidity Oprah 's Red B solution and, its aggregation concentration was determined as 1×10-5 mol/L. As the temperature increases, the increase of the conductivity of the dye solution undergoing ultrasonication was higher than that of the dye solution without standing ultrasonication, when the dye solution was above the aggregation concentration. At 50℃, the electrical conductivity of the dye solution gradually increased with the ultrasonication time, and a red shift of the λmax occurred, and with a decrease in the absorbance of spectrum shoulder peak.
      Chromogenic method for determination of 23 kinds of carcinogenic aromatic amines
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  58-63. 
      Abstract ( 705 )   PDF (1184KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      In order to improve the detection speed and reduce the cost of testing,a chromogenic reaction of 23 carcinogenic aromatic amines with guaiacol ,which not completely depend on large scale chromatography instrument ,was developed . According to the structural features of aromatic amines and mechanism of diazo-coupling reaction, all terms of diazo-coupling reaction process were studied and optimized effectively. The optimal conditions were obtained as follows: at room temperature, pH of diazo-reaction was 2.56, pH of coupling reaction was 10 -11, diazo-reaction time was 10 min, diazo-reaction products were stable during 180min. Linearity was excellent in the concentration range of 1-50mg/L. This method could be effectively applied to textiles in qualitative screening test of 23 carcinogenic aromatic amines.
      Investigation into culture of batik dyeing of Waishu Miao nationality in Zhijin, Guizhou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  64-69. 
      Abstract ( 1192 )   PDF (2186KB) ( 699 )   Save
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      Wax printing of Waishu Miao is the significant sign of practical function and also the significative sign of folk traditional culture. Based on the field investigations in several villages in the Zhijin County of Guizhou Province, this article analyzes the features of the traditional costume of Waishu Miao, expatiates on cultural position of wax printing in Waishu Miao’s daily life, analyzes its artistic features of theme, structure and colour, summarizes the rich connotations of history, folk culture, religion and belief of Waishu Miao condensed by wax printing. Artistic aesthetic values and the capacity of artistic creation of Waishu Miao women embody in the fine patterns of traditional costume, which memorize Waishu Miao’s ancestor and carries their belief.
      Research on evolution of women′s dominant status and transformation of costume culture
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  70-74. 
      Abstract ( 804 )   PDF (1456KB) ( 883 )   Save
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      There is a profound implicit relationship between woman dominant status and costume culture. A great historical change of woman dominant status is a fundamental reason for the transformation of women costume culture. Costume sex differences of "female flourishes while male declines" had their origin in a patriarchy due to differential emergences of social status between male and femal. It was a result of social reality that women were enslaved in the background of patriarchy. Along with the ascension of woman dominant status, a great number of revolutionary fashion designers emerged as the times require, which turned on the advent of the second axial period of woman costume culture.
      Study of methods and reliability of weft signal detection with infrared photoelectric sensor
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  75-79. 
      Abstract ( 959 )   PDF (1091KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      In the whole process of textile manufacturing, the weft error detection rate of optoelectronic measuring method is higher. this paper analyzed the general method of weft signal detection processing, it pointed out that the fluctuate of weft signal and the resistance value of the adjustable resistance on the gain amplifying circuit and threshold comparison circuit are normally distributed ,which were the main factors that cause the test is low reliability. A failure analysis of weft detection was presented, and this paper presented four improved methods. Through the experiments, the results showed the major reasons for weft error detection were upper-saturation and under-saturation of the weft signal gain. For the wefts signal processing between digital processing mode and Analog circuits mode, the important way to improve the detection rate was adopted VGA IC in the amplifier circuit.
      Influence of electromagnet working state on dynamic performance of electronic dobby’s swing arm
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  80-84. 
      Abstract ( 507 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      In order to improve the performance of electronic Dobby, determine the influence of the electromagnet working state on dynamic performance of electronic dobby’s swing arm, the effects of the electromagnet’s working parameters, such as operating voltage, air gap width, operating temperature and bypass electromagnet ‘s working state, on the dynamic performance of electronic dobby’s swing arm were analyzed and researched by experiments. And the working situations of a imported and a domestic electromagnets were compared. The results show that all these parameters have some influences to it. So during the production, processing and using the electromagnets, we have to improve machining precision, take some shielding measures between multiple electromagnets, provide a stable and reliable power and appropriate environment.
      Model of radial length of rubber blanket in extrusion area for preshrinking machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  85-88. 
      Abstract ( 574 )   PDF (940KB) ( 404 )   Save
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      It is difficult to determine the radial length of extrusion area for rubber blanket pre-shrinking machine when preshrinking for special construction of two interactional cylindrical rollers. It causes some difficulties to online estimation of shrinkage. Analyzing deformation process of rubber blanket when it is extruded and making some simplifications, a mathematical model of radial length of rubber blanket in extrusion area when extruding was established to solve the problem according to Hertz contact theory. The result of application indicates that the relative errors of radial length calculated by the model are all less than 4%, and the mean absolute percentage error is about 2%. The model is efficient. It provides theory reference for online estimation of shrinkage in practical production.
      Empirical analysis of factors affecting textile creative industry
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  89-94. 
      Abstract ( 688 )   PDF (1346KB) ( 530 )   Save
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      Textile creative industry is a branch of creative industries and an emerging industry. To upgrade the textile industry promotes the development of the textile creative industry, and thus promotes the development of the textile industry. Based on the literature and investigation research, this paper proposed indicators of factors affecting the development of the Textile Creative Industry. Through the questionnaire survey, descriptive statistics and factor analysis, fixed indicators system, ultimately get six factors in the aspects of the textile creative capital base, including textile base, market demand base, computer industry base, textile creative industry base, textile creative industry capital investment, intellectual capital of textile creative industry; and four factors in the aspects of textile creative business environment, including policy and regulatory environment, work environment, business environment, intellectual property protection environment.
      Optical triangulation and its applications in body measurement
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  95-101. 
      Abstract ( 1305 )   PDF (1607KB) ( 631 )   Save
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      Optical triangulation is a basic profilometry based on the collinear equation by using the triangular relationship among the object, light source and a camera to get the direct solution geometrically. This paper reviewed the domestic anthropometric studies, and pointed out the importance of the principle research to the relative exploration. According to the classification of optical profilometry, and following the collinear equation, the faults of simple photogrammetry in body measurement were pointed out, the principles of the passive triangular method as well as the laser sectioning,Gray code grating method of active triangulation have been described mathematically. The features of each method on body scan have been summed up and the misunderstandings about infrared body scanning were also discussed.
      Segmentation of jacquard warp-knitted fabric image based on hierarchical Markov random field model
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  102-106. 
      Abstract ( 664 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 459 )   Save
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      Research on forming method of warp knitting seamless tumic boluse
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  107-111. 
      Abstract ( 643 )   PDF (1250KB) ( 432 )   Save
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      Numerical simulation of stab-resistant behavior of warp-knitted spacer fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  112-117. 
      Abstract ( 766 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 485 )   Save
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      Evaluation of style of several stitch-bonded fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  118-121. 
      Abstract ( 721 )   PDF (784KB) ( 422 )   Save
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      Model-building for slot needles’six-bar linkage of high speed warp knitting machine based on UG
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  127-133. 
      Abstract ( 756 )   PDF (1477KB) ( 427 )   Save
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      In order to solve the dynamical analysis of slot needle's six-bar linkage in high speed warp knitting machine, reduce the impact of movement, the high-speed movement’s smoothness of warp knitting machine is improved. The Kineto-elastodynamic analysis (KED) method of multivariate flexible mechanism is applied to analysis of slot needle's six-bar linkage. The analysis of structural modeling is presented in the slot needle's six-bar linkage based on the technique of UG, and the flexible variation of the slot needle is systematically studied in the high-speed movement; the UG is applied to the changing situation of slot needle's displacement, velocity, and acceleration which simulated in different conditions of movement; The correctness of the KED analysis methods of knitting elements is verified, the basis of theoretical analysis is provided for slot needle's six-bar linkage of knitting elements structural design and optimization.
      Use of warp knitting composite materials in wind power generation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  134-139. 
      Abstract ( 579 )   PDF (1311KB) ( 450 )   Save
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      Present research situation and developing tendency of warp knitting equipment and technology
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  140-144. 
      Abstract ( 782 )   PDF (1386KB) ( 772 )   Save
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      Research status and development trend of 3-D simulation technology for warp-knitted fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(12):  145-149. 
      Abstract ( 830 )   PDF (1401KB) ( 557 )   Save
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