纺织学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (05): 46-53.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106501

• 特约专栏:减污降耗染色新技术 • 上一篇    下一篇

涤纶针织鞋材超临界CO2无水染色性能

宋洁1,2, 蔡涛3, 郑福尔3, 郑环达1,2(), 郑来久1,2   

  1. 1.大连工业大学 辽宁省超临界二氧化碳无水染色重点实验室, 辽宁 大连 116034
    2.全国超临界流体无水染色技术研发中心, 辽宁 大连 116034
    3.石狮市中纺学服装及配饰产业研究院, 福建 石狮 362700
  • 收稿日期:2022-11-23 修回日期:2023-02-24 出版日期:2023-05-15 发布日期:2023-06-09
  • 通讯作者: 郑环达(1987—),男,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为超临界CO2流体染整技术。E-mail:zhenghd@dlpu.edu.cn。
  • 作者简介:宋洁(1997—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为超临界CO2流体染色技术。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(21908015);辽宁省教育厅高等学校基本科研项目(J202152);福建省第七批省引才“百人计划”团队项目(202102);大连市科技创新基金项目(2022JJ12SN055);大连市重点科技研发计划项目(2022YF12GX057);大连市高层次人才创新支持计划项目(2020RQ019)

Research on supercritical CO2 waterless dyeing property of polyester knitted shoe materials

SONG Jie1,2, CAI Tao3, ZHENG Fuer3, ZHENG Huanda1,2(), ZHENG Laijiu1,2   

  1. 1. Liaoning Provincial Key Laboratory of Supercritical CO2 Dyeing, Dalian Polytechnic University, Dalian, Liaoning 116034, China
    2. National Supercritical Fluid Dyeing Technology Research Center, Dalian, Liaoning 116034, China
    3. Shishi CTES Research Institute of Apparel and Accessories Industry, Shishi, Fujian 362700, China
  • Received:2022-11-23 Revised:2023-02-24 Published:2023-05-15 Online:2023-06-09

摘要:

为解决传统染色高污染、高能耗问题,实现鞋材无水清洁化染色,研究了涤纶针织鞋材在超临界CO2体系中的染色性能,分析了染色温度、压力、时间以及CO2流量对针织鞋材染色效果的影响。在实验条件范围内,染色鞋材的K/S值随温度、压力的升高而增大,并最终趋于稳定,获得最佳染色工艺条件为:染色温度120 ℃,染色压力24 MPa,染色时间60 min,CO2流量400 kg/h。涤纶鞋材的耐摩擦和耐皂洗色牢度均达到4级以上。并进一步探究了染色温度、压力对针织鞋材力学性能的影响。结果显示:鞋材的抗弯刚度、最大抗弯力与断裂强力、顶破强力随温度、压力的上升而增大;断裂伸长率随温度、压力的上升而降低;收缩率随温度、压力的上升而增大;鞋材的表面摩擦因数无明显变化;其中温度对鞋材力学性能的影响大于压力的影响。

关键词: 超临界CO2, 针织鞋材, 涤纶, 染色性能, 力学性能

Abstract:

Objective Knitted sports shoe materials have the advantages of structural integration, light weight, comfort and low cost, which attractes wide attention from the industry and consumers in recent years. However, with the increasingly prominent environmental pollution caused by conventional aqueous dyeing, how to achieve the eco-friendly dyeing of sports shoe materials has become the key development direction.

Method In order to solve the problems of serious dyeing pollution and high energy consumption in the conventional dyeing, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials was conducted with Disperse Yellow 54 using supercritical CO2 as medium. Influences of dyeing temperature, pressure, time and CO2 flow on the K/S values and levelling property were analyzed. The mechanical properties of polyester knitted shoe materials before and after dyeing were investigated, including bending, shrinkage, friction, tensile and durable properties.

Results The results showed that supercritical CO2 displayed obvious influence on the dyeing properties of polyester knitted shoe materials. In supercritical CO2 dyeing system, the K/S values of the dyed polyester knitted shoe materials increased significantly with the rising of dyeing pressure, temperature and time. This is mainly because the increasing CO2 temperature and pressure present more and more plasticizing effect on polyester fiber. The dissolved dye molecules were more likely to approach the fiber interface, and would complete the adsorption through self-diffusion. Compared with aqueous dyeing, the dyeing process of polyester knitted shoe materials was able to completed with in 60 min in supercritical CO2 and the change of CO2 flow rate showed no significant influence on the K/S values. The deviation values of K/S data fluctuated around 0.1 at pressure ranging from 18 MPa to 26 MPa, temperature ranging from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, time ranging from 20 min to 100 min as well as a CO2 flow from 380 kg/h to 460 kg/h, which represents good levelness. After supercritical CO2 dyeing, color fastness to rubbing and soaping of polyester shoe materials reached level 4 or above(Tab.1). The influence of CO2 temperature and pressure on the mechanical properties of shoe materials was different, and temperature had more significant influence on mechanical properties than pressure. When the CO2 temperature rose from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, the bending rigidity increased from 9.90 mN·cm to 15.30 mN·cm(Fig.8), the maximum bending strength increased from 75.29 cN to 126.30 cN(Fig.8), the longitudinal shrinkage rate increased from 6.72% to 11.21%(Fig.9), the transverse shrinkage rate increased from 3.80% to 6.58%(Fig.9), the breaking strength increased from 1 048.23 N to 1 281.17 N(Fig.11), the elongation at break decreased from 42.05% to 36.6%(Fig.11), and the bursting strength increased from 2 235 N to 2 390 N(Fig.13). However, the test results revealed that the temperature and pressure played no remarkable influence on the tribological properties(Tab.2), and the static friction coefficient and dynamic friction coefficient of the polyester samples were almost constant.

Conclusion By using supercritical CO2 instead of water as the medium, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials can be achieved, and the deviation of K/S values is stable at 0.1±0.05. The optimal dyeing procedure was determined by balancing the dyeing effect and resource consumption. The dyed polyester knitted shoe materials with superior properties after supercritical CO2 dyeing indicate a favorable foreground. The above investigation provides an impurtant support for the clean industrial production of supercritical CO2 dyeing.

Key words: supercritical CO2, knitted shoe material, polyester, dyeing property, mechanical property

中图分类号: 

  • TQ630

图1

超临界CO2流体染色工艺流程"

图2

针织鞋材染色工艺流程"

图3

压力对针织鞋材K/S值的影响"

图4

温度对针织鞋材K/S值的影响"

图5

染色时间对针织鞋材K/S值的影响"

图6

CO2流量对针织鞋材K/S值的影响"

表1

不同温度下针织鞋材的色牢度"

温度/℃ 耐摩擦色牢度/级 耐皂洗色牢度/级
湿 沾色 褪色
105 4~5 4~5 4 4
110 4~5 4~5 4 4
115 4~5 4~5 4 4~5
120 4~5 4~5 4 4~5
125 4~5 4~5 4 4

图7

压力对针织鞋材弯曲性能的影响"

图8

温度对针织鞋材弯曲性能的影响"

图9

温度对针织鞋材收缩性能的影响"

图10

压力对针织鞋材收缩性能的影响"

表2

不同温度、压力下针织鞋材的摩擦因数"

温度/
静摩擦
因数
动摩擦
因数
压力/
MPa
静摩擦
因数
动摩擦
因数
105 0.336 0.233 18 0.316 0.191
110 0.322 0.319 20 0.376 0.218
115 0.383 0.311 22 0.371 0.211
120 0.355 0.276 24 0.396 0.175
125 0.394 0.224 26 0.376 0.203

图11

温度对针织鞋材拉伸性能的影响"

图12

压力对拉伸性能的影响针织鞋材"

图13

温度对针织鞋材耐用性能的影响"

图14

压力对针织鞋材耐用性能的影响"

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