纺织学报 ›› 2026, Vol. 47 ›› Issue (02): 230-238.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20251002601

• 染整工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

蒸汽洗对棉织物手感的影响及其作用机制

刘济民1,2, 任亚杰1,2, 王志强1,2, 陈贺3, 王怀芳1,2()   

  1. 1 青岛大学 纺织服装学院, 山东 青岛 266071
    2 青岛大学 功能纺织品与先进材料研究院, 山东 青岛 266071
    3 海信冰箱有限公司, 山东 青岛 266100
  • 收稿日期:2025-10-14 修回日期:2025-11-17 出版日期:2026-02-15 发布日期:2026-04-24
  • 通讯作者: 王怀芳(1980—),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为功能纤维及功能纺织品。E-mail: hfwang1980@163.com。
  • 作者简介:刘济民(2001—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为功能纤维、功能纺织品及衣物护理。

Effect of steam washing on cotton fabric hand and its underlying mechanism

LIU Jimin1,2, REN Yajie1,2, WANG Zhiqiang1,2, CHEN He3, WANG Huaifang1,2()   

  1. 1 College of Textiles & Clothing, Qingdao University, Qingdao, Shandong 266071, China
    2 Institute of Functional Textiles and Advanced Materials, Qingdao University, Qingdao, Shandong 266071, China
    3 Hisense Refrigerator Co., Ltd., Qingdao, Shandong 266100, China
  • Received:2025-10-14 Revised:2025-11-17 Published:2026-02-15 Online:2026-04-24

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摘要：

为提高织物蒸汽护理效果,以纯棉织物为对象,研究了蒸汽护理对其手感的影响;采用恒温恒湿箱控制织物所处环境温湿度,研究温度和湿度对织物手感的影响规律;通过X射线衍射仪、傅里叶变换红外光谱仪等手段,研究湿热处理过程中织物含湿率变化对结晶度、分子间氢键的影响,并探讨其与棉织物柔软度的关联性。结果表明:蒸汽洗护理后的织物手感得到改善,柔软度提高;棉织物手感受织物含湿率影响,含湿率受环境温湿度影响。在湿度恒定时,升高温度织物含湿率下降;在温度恒定时,增加湿度织物含湿率增加。当棉织物含湿率低于4.6%时,随着含湿率的增加,结晶指数、分子间氢键和抗弯刚度增加,不利于织物手感提高;当棉织物含湿率超过4.6%时,结晶指数、分子间氢键和抗弯刚度均随含湿率的增加而下降,织物手感提高。

关键词: 蒸汽洗, 湿热处理, 棉织物, 手感, 柔软度, 含湿率, 结晶度, 氢键

Abstract:

Objective Conventional laundering consumes large amounts of water and chemicals, and the intense mechanical action frequently damages cotton garments. "Steam-wash" programmes that apply hot, moist air with almost no water have been introduced in domestic washers to remove odours and creases, yet their influence on fabric hand is still poorly quantified. This work therefore sets out to clarify how steam care changes the tactile properties of cotton textiles and to elucidate the underlying physicochemical mechanism. This study provides a theoretical basis for the development of intelligent steam-ironing processes.

Method Pre-wash plain-weave cotton and terry towel fabrics were divided into three groups to receive (i) steam-washing, (ii) conventional 40 ℃ wash with softener, and (iii) normal washing as control. Fabric hand values (stiffness, softness, smoothness) were assessed with a PhabrOmeter®, and whiteness was monitored for 30 d. To decouple moisture and thermal effects, pre-dried cotton was conditioned under varying temperature/humidity regimes. Moisture content and absorption kinetics were measured gravimetrically. Bending rigidity was determined immediately post-conditioning according to GB/T 18318.1. XRD, and FT-IR analyses tracked supramolecular structural changes, with crystallinity index (Crl) and hydrogen-bonding quantified by curve fitting.

Results It was found that steam wash reduced the stiffness of both plain-weave cotton and cotton terry towel fabrics by approximately 2% and 6%, while softness was increased by 0.4 and 3.0 units, respectively. The improvement in fabric hand due to steam wash was comparable to that obtained using liquid softener. Moreover, steam wash avoided the 2-unit whiteness loss observed with softener after 30 days of storage, demonstrating its significant advantage in preserving fabric whiteness. The stiffness of fabrics is influenced by their moisture content, which is primarily controlled by the temperature and humidity of the surrounding environment. When the ambient temperature was constant, the moisture content of the fabric demonstrated increases with the rising relative humidity (RH). Conversely, at a constant humidity level, the moisture content showed decreases as the temperature increased. Raising RH from 25% to 90% at 25 ℃ increased equilibrium moisture content from 2.3% to 8.6% and lowered crystallinity index from 80.6% to 60.5%, while the (002) crystal thickness shrank from 5.57 nm to 3.41 nm. Conversely, increasing temperature at 90% RH reduced moisture content (MC) and made the fabrics stiffer and more crystalline. When the RH was raised from 25% to 90% at 25 ℃, the equilibrium moisture content increased from 2.3% to 8.6%, the crystallinity index decreased from 80.6% to 60.5%, and the (002) crystal thickness decreased from 5.57 nm to 3.41 nm. Conversely, when the temperature was increased from 25 ℃ to 85 ℃ at 90% RH, the equilibrium moisture content (MC) decreased from 8.6% to 4.6%, and the crystallinity index increased from 60.5% to 79%. The bending rigidity of the fabric increased with the moisture content (MC) until reaching a critical point of 4.6% (w/w), beyond which it decreased sharply, and this turning point coincided with the minima in fabric crystallinity index and hydrogen bond density. FT-IR showed that the intermolecular O(6)H…O(3') bond fraction dropped by 25% as moisture content reached 8.6%, indicating water-assisted disruption of the inter-chain network. The kinetic data further showed that cotton reaches moisture equilibrium within 10 min under typical steam-cycle conditions, confirming that the observed structural changes are realistically accessible during a 20-30 min steam refresh.

Conclusion Steam wash consistently improves cotton fabric hand by differentially affecting the fiber's supramolecular structure depending on the moisture uptake level. When the moisture content exceeds a critical threshold of approximately 4.6%, water molecules penetrate the sub-crystalline regions, disrupt intermolecular hydrogen bonds, and reduce crystallite size, thereby lowering bending rigidity. This process is purely physical as no new functional groups are formed, thus preserving whiteness and fiber integrity. This study confirms that steam washing provides softness and comfort comparable to that achieved by using chemical softeners, but without additive use or color damage. It defines the target moisture content window (6%-9%) for appliance developers to optimize garment hand feel.

Key words: steam washing, hygrothermal treatment, cotton fabric, handle, softness, moisture content, crystallinity, hydrogen bond

中图分类号: 

  • TS116

表1

温湿度条件参数"

编号 温度/℃ 湿度/%
TR1 25 25
TR2 25 45
TR3 25 65
TR4 25 90
T1R 25 90
T2R 45 90
T3R 65 90
T4R 85 90

图1

抗弯刚度测试装置示意图"

图2

不同织物经蒸汽洗护理和柔顺剂护理前后织物手感变化"

表2

经不同护理方式护理后棉织物和纯棉毛巾放置一定时间的白度值"

试样
编号		 护理方式 不同放置时间下的白度值/%
0 d 5 d 10 d 15 d 30 d
1# 未护理 83.2 83.2 83.2 83.2 83.2
2# 柔顺剂护理 83.2 83.2 83.1 83.2 83.1
3# 蒸汽洗护理 83.2 83.1 83.2 83.2 83.2
4# 未护理 81.1 81.1 81.1 81.1 81.1
5# 柔顺剂护理 81.4 81.3 81.0 81.0 79.4
6# 蒸汽洗护理 81.4 81.3 81.2 81.2 81.3

表3

不同温湿度条件下棉织物半吸湿时间"

样品
编号		 TR1 TR2 TR3 TR4 T1R T2R T3R T4R
t1/2/s 122.22 136.58 138.97 568.78 563.72 168.81 73.54 38.48

图3

不同温湿度处理下织物抗弯刚度变化"

图4

不同温湿度处理后棉纤维XRD图谱"

图5

85 ℃、相对湿度90%处理下棉织物XRD分峰拟合图"

表4

不同温度处理条件棉织物XRD曲线分峰结果"

样品 含湿
率/%		 晶面 衍射角
2θ/(°)		 D/nm 结晶指
数/%
OD - 101 14.5 5.84 77.4
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.60
002 22.5 5.57
T4R 4.6 101 15.0 5.84 79.0
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.61
002 22.8 6.50
T2R 6.9 101 15.0 6.82 75.8
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.6 3.70
002 23.0 5.01
T1R 8.6 101 15.0 9.52 60.5
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 1.37
002 23.5 3.41

表5

不同湿度处理棉织物XRD曲线分峰结果"

样品 含湿
率/%		 晶面 衍射角
2θ/(°)		 D/nm 结晶指
数/%
101 14.9 5.84
OD - 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.60 77.4
002 22.7 5.57
101 15.6 5.37
TR2 3.6 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 4.8 80.6
002 23.5 6.43
101 15.5 5.43
TR3 5.4 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.1 7.51 75.8
002 23.3 5.34
101 15.0 9.52
TR4 8.6 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 1.37 60.5
002 23.5 3.41

图6

不同温湿度处理后棉纤维FT-IR光谱"

图7

不同处理条件下氢键拟合图"

表6

不同温度处理棉织物红外谱图氢键区域拟合结果"

样品 含湿率/% 氢键 波数/cm-1 峰面积占比/%
OD - O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.8 20.5
O(3) H…O(5) 3 332.2 47.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.9 31.9
T4R 4.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 450.2 20.8
O(3) H…O(5) 3 324.9 46.3
O(6) H…O(3') 3 200.7 32.9
T2R 6.9 O(2) H…O(6) 3 454.5 24.1
O(3) H…O(5) 3 331.8 47.2
O(6) H…O(3') 3 210.8 28.7
T1R 8.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 453.9 23.4
O(3) H…O(5) 3 314.9 52.7
O(6) H…O(3') 3 176.9 23.9

表7

不同湿度处理棉织物红外谱图氢键区域拟合结果"

样品 含湿率/% 氢键 波数/cm-1 峰面积占比/%
OD - O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.8 20.5
O(3) H…O(5) 3 332.2 47.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.9 31.9
TR2 3.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 450.1 21.2
O(3) H…O(5) 3 327.9 46.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.7 32.1
TR3 5.4 O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.2 21.7
O(3) H…O(5) 3 336.3 47.5
O(6) H…O(3') 3 216.5 30.7
TR4 8.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 453.9 23.4
O(3) H…O(5) 3 314.9 52.7
O(6) H…O(3') 3 176.9 23.9
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