Table of Content

15 April 2006, Volume 27 Issue 4

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研究论文

Innovative principle and method of colorless digital jacquard fabric design

ZHOU Jiu;Frankie Ng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (200KB) ( 751 )   Save

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The research on innovative design of digital jacquard fabrics can be divided into two parts according to the design theory of digital image.This paper made an in-depth analysis of the innovative principle and method of design of colorless digital jacquard fabrics,presented the computer color design principle of achromatic color and the method for setting up of the corresponding holographic digital database of fabric weaves.Starting from the jacquard fabric with single-layer structure,the fabric structure design is separated from fabric color effect design,and the matching and substitution of the gray of digital image with that in the database of fabric weaves are completed automatically through CAD system according to different brightness,thus realizing automatic designing of the fabric structure.This innovative principle and method can meet the technical requirements of artificial intelligent design of the achromatic jacquard fabric and provide a basis for creating a new concept of colorful digital jacquard design.

Research on high-response electromagnetic actuator of electronic engraving system

FANG Ping;DING Fan;LI Qi-peng;LI Yong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  6-10. 

Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (321KB) ( 409 )   Save

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Electronic engraving system is the key equipment of plate making for transfer printing.On analysis of the structure of the electronic engraving system′s electromechanical actuator,the mathematic model was established and used to simulate its dynamic characteristics and analyze the magnetic fields.The influence of main structure parameters on its performances was discussed.Its static hysteresis and frequency response features were examined with light reflection measuring method,and the actuator is fixed in a real electronic engraving system for trial operation.The results show that the actuator has angular displacement of(±0.006 4 rad)(linear displacement of the needle(±65 μm),) low hysteresis of less than 5.5%,and frequency response((-3 dB)) of(3 100 Hz.) It is characterized by compact in construction,reliable in action,good in frequency response and linearity and can meet the requirements of electronic engraving system.

Dynamic changes of enzymes in the process of flax degumming

PENG Yuan-de;YANG Xi-ai;YAN Li;TANG Shou-wei;ZHENG Ke;LIU Zhao-tie;XIONG He-ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  11-14. 

Abstract ( 1204 )   PDF (117KB) ( 468 )   Save

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The dynamic changes of pectinase,xylanase,cellulase,microorganism,pH value and reducing sugar etc.in the process of fast microbial degumming and warm water retting of flax were studied.The results show that the change tendencies of pectinases and xylanases are basically similar in the two retting methods,which identically increase slowly in the prophase,and raise quickly in the metaphase and anaphase.The change tendencies of cellulases have apparent differences,for in the fast microbial degumming of flax,the increase extent of the cellulase activity is rather small and the activity is roughly low(about(0.05 IU/mL),) but in the warm water retting of flax,the cellulase activity begins to increase rapidly after the flax has been fermented for(72 h) and the activity reaches(0.337 9 IU/mL) when the degumming is completed.The change tendencies of microorganisms(degumming bacteria and other bacteria) in the two degumming methods are essentially similar,which increase swiftly in the prophase,and decrease after the degumming is completed.The change tendencies of the pH values and the reducing sugars uniformly present an "U" type and a "M" type respectively.

Synthesis and characterization of acrylate sizing agent

CUI Jian-wei;XIONG Jie-gang;ZHANG Hui-ping;YAN Xiong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  15-18. 

Abstract ( 1114 )   PDF (103KB) ( 608 )   Save

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Applying orthogonal design method,a new-type acrylate sizing agent was synthesized from acrylic acid,ethyl acrylate,n-butyl acrylate and methacrylate,which was fit for sizing cotton/ polyester blended yarns for the purpose of substitution of it for PVA size.The effect of the initiator dosage and the mixing ratio of emulsifying agent on the polymerization stability and of monomers on the sizing performance were investigated through testing in combination with analysis of variance.The sizing performance characteristics of several kinds of acrylate sizing agents were analyzed and compared.The results show that the synthesized acrylate sizing agent is one with low hygroscopicity and low re-adhesion.

研究探讨

Study on preparation and structure of PAN-based hollow carbon fiber membrane

LIU En-hua;LI Shu-feng;CHENG Bo-wen;DU Qi-yun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  19-21. 

Abstract ( 906 )   PDF (148KB) ( 488 )   Save

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The PAN-based hollow carbon fiber membranes and its pre-oxidized hollow fiber membranes prepared under different conditions as well as their morphology were investigated.It is found through experiments that drawing of the base membrane makes the pre-oxidized and carbon membranes compact,adding PMMA and polyimide(YJ-16) to the PAN based membrane can help to keep the finger-like pore structure of the hollow fiber membrane,thus obtaining pre-oxidized hollow PAN based membrane and hollow carbon fiber membrane with better morphology.

Principal component and cluster analysis of mechanical properties of ramie fibers

LUO Zhong-qin;CUI Guo-xian;YANG Yan-chun;XIAO Hong-song;YI Dong-mei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  22-24. 

Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (94KB) ( 530 )   Save

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The principal component analysis of 11 physical property indexes such as fineness of fiber,breaking strength of 107 ramie varieties was undertaken using the statistical analysis system(SAS).Three principal components were chosen according to the criteria of cumulative contribution root≥90%.The 107 ramie varieties were cluster analyzed on the result of principal component analysis,and these varieties were divided into four clusters.In terms of comprehensive physical properties,cluster Ⅰ and Ⅳ: moderate;cluster Ⅱ: fairly good;and cluster Ⅲ: relatively poor.

Research on the aerobic bacteria degumming of hemp fiber

FENG Xin-xing;CHEN Jian-yong;QIAN Wei-jun;ZHANG Jian-chun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  25-27. 

Abstract ( 919 )   PDF (226KB) ( 426 )   Save

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The laboratory experiment of degumming of hemp fibers with aerobic bacteria which had been bred for 7 days was undertaken.It was found after 4 days′ treatment that the content of the pectin,wax and hemi-cellulose of hemp fibers had a significant reduction except the lignose for which continuous treatment was needed.SEM study showed that the surface of the un-treated hemp fibers was coarse and the cellulose bundle was enveloped by the pectin and hemi-cellulose,but the surface of the treated hemp fibers was smooth and the separation degree of the fibers was good.The peaks of the hemi-cellulose and the lignose at1 736 cm^-1,1 510 cm^-1 respectively before treatment became weak after treatment,as observed by FTIR,it indicated that the hemi-cellulose and the lignose were partly removed.

Effect of flame retardant finishing on properties of polylactic acid fibers

LI Ya-bin;KOU Shi-jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  28-30. 

Abstract ( 964 )   PDF (125KB) ( 437 )   Save

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Polylactic acid fiber fabrics were treated respectively with five flame retardants—HBCD、TBB、TBP-A、TBP-A-2EO、TPP.The absorptivity of TPP and TBP-A were very high.However,the limiting oxygen index(LOI) value of the treated fiber remained at 25.9% when the absorptivity of TBP-A increased over 4.38%.LOI value reached 27.8% when the absorptivity of TPP was only 3.05%.When the amount of absorbed TPP increased to 12.8%,however,the LOI value decreased to 25.4%.The scanning electron micrograph and DSC data show that an excessive amount of TPP crystallization was on the surfaces of polylactide fibers and the tensile strength was cut down by 70%.These results indicate that moderate TPP treatment can impart polylactide fibers high flame retardant property.

Research and application of the fabric shrinkage mechanism and its mathematical model

FU Ju-fen;BAI Lun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  31-35. 

Abstract ( 1209 )   PDF (131KB) ( 532 )   Save

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Having analyzed the relationships between shrinkage,weaving technique,parameters and material properties of woven fabrics,researchers set up a shrinkage model of the plain fabric,and proposed a math formula for calculating the shrinkage based on weaving technique and parameters of fabrics.Shrinkage experiments of cotton and viscose fabrics were performed.The results were compared with those of theoretical computations,and it has proven that the theoretical method is reliable.This formula was used to analyze the effects of yarn diameter,weft density,warp crimp ratio and swellability on warp shrinkage of the fabric.

Fabric defect detection technique based on neural network

CHEN Jun-jie;XIE Chun-ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  36-38. 

Abstract ( 960 )   PDF (96KB) ( 579 )   Save

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Owing to numerous kinds of fabric weaves and varied characteristics of fabric surface,it is very difficult to establish a universal fabric defect detection model.In order to solve this problem and realize automatic inspection of fabric,a method for identification of the defects on the fabric by using the double layer neural network and wavelet analysis is proposed.To be specific,the first layer BP neural network is utilized to tell the defects of a normal fabric and acquire its characteristics through repeated training,and then,the twodimensional discrete wavelet transformation based on the image of the defects is conducted,wiping off the inherent characteristics of the fabric and identifying the defects by means of the trained BP neural network.The experiments demonstrated that this method is of high accuracy and high speed,satisfying the elementary requirements of automatic cloth inspection.

Epoxy crosslinking agent EH aided fixation of brazilwood vegetable dye

ZHOU Jia-wei;CHENG Wan-li

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  39-43. 

Abstract ( 1369 )   PDF (154KB) ( 520 )   Save

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The effect of epoxy crosslinking agent EH on the color fixation of cotton directly dyed with natural brazilwood dye was analyzed by K/S value,FT-IR,X-ray,DSCTGA and acid-dissolving rate testing,and reaction kinetics experiment was performed using hematein as a substitution for brazilwood dye.The results showed that under experiment conditions the reaction between hematein and epoxy crosslinking agent follows pseudo-first-order kinetics,and under alkaline condition epoxy crosslinking agent reacts simultaneously with both the hydroxy groups of hematein and cellulose.The cross linking reaction with cellulose mostly occurs in the amorphous region.

Temperature field simulation of the needle quenching process based on the ANSYS

CHEN Hai-yan;ZHU Shi-gen;DING Hao;JI Cheng-chang;SHEN Jian;YUAN Yi-gao;GU Wei-sheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  44-47. 

Abstract ( 1036 )   PDF (188KB) ( 416 )   Save

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The temperature change of knitting needles during quenching in the mesh-belt furnace was simulated using the ANSYS software.The results show that the internal temperature of the knitting needles was not uniform,and the temperature of the hook part rose faster than that of the middle part.Moreover,the velocity of the mesh-belt exerted a great influence on the temperature distribution curve.The temperature difference of the internal part became bigger and bigger in the earlier heating stage and the holding time became shorter and shorter in the later heating stage as the velocity of the mesh-belt increased.Based on the results,the technology parameters of the needle quenching in the mesh-belt furnace were adjusted.

Principle and application of difference matching in apparel pattern design

DAI Jian-guo;YE Hong;YANG Yu-ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  48-52. 

Abstract ( 911 )   PDF (144KB) ( 495 )   Save

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A garment is made up of many pieces of fabric sewn up one after another in an orderly way.From the configuration of finished garment,it seams that the two sides of a seam are of the same length and same shape,in fact,not always in that situation.On one hand,stereoscopic feeling and fitness to the wearer are essential requirements to a garment.On the other hand,fabric thickness is an important factor which should be taken into consideration when making a garment.In order to sculpt a garment as anticipated,difference match designs on seams,such as flat felled or overlapped,are necessary.The bound edge or the blocking,and the difference for pattern matching are related with the thickness of material,the configuration of ready-wear and sewing craftsmanship.The difference matching design in apparel pattern can be divided into layer-overlapping type and turning-point type.

Study on the curve modification of garment pattern CAD

WANG Hong-fu;LIN Yi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  53-55. 

Abstract ( 1031 )   PDF (140KB) ( 401 )   Save

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The design of garment pattern CAD relates to many modification methods,one of which is free curve modification.However,many modification modules in the present CAD software have drawbacks.Taken into consideration the practical needs in the curve modification of the garment pattern CAD,a new model value point modification method was proposed. This method was based on thrice uniformity B sample strip constitution,the shape of curve can be changed swiftly with moving of the mouse.It is visual,accords with the habits of designers.It can be applied to modification of part of a curve with no need for recalculating the whole curve.Therefore,this method has the advantages of good controllability,high flexibility,and easy operation.

Research on the young women′s body characteristic index and ridge regression

ZOU Feng-yuan;DING Xiao-jun;PAN Li-feng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  56-59. 

Abstract ( 1094 )   PDF (108KB) ( 602 )   Save

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For garment production,the measurement of 430 young women aged from 18～23 in Jiangsu and Zhejiang area were taken through scanning with 3D-body scanner.Then the typical indexes deciding and distinguishing women′s body characteristic were obtained by cluster analyzing of the data of 46 parts influencing the body form.They were height,front length,breast depth,bust circumference /hip size and shoulder width.A ridge regression model was established which could be applied to the detail specifications and basic parts of the body,so the detail specifications could be acquired through typical indexes.The data from the prediction model are precise,have prominent correlation,can make the garment pattern more precise and suitable.

测试分析

Study on the flame retardant HWM viscose fibers modified by grafting

LI Shu-feng;CHENG Bo-wen;SUN Kun-song;SONG Hao-jiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  60-62. 

Abstract ( 1215 )   PDF (118KB) ( 527 )   Save

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The properties of flame retardance,thermal stability,mechanics and the morphology of the home made flame retardant high wet modulus(HWM) viscose fibers modified by grafting were examined.The LOI value of the fibers was 28.0%.DTA showed the fiber sample absorbed the heat at 216～(276 ℃) with the weight loss of 35%.The holes and cracks were observed on the transect section and the suface of the sample by SEM.Compared with the un-grafted fibers,the strength of the grafted fibers decreased by 19%.After combing, the short fiber content of the grafted fibers reached 71%.

Test on the soybean protein fiber′s negative ion property

CHEN Yue-hua;GONG Pei-hu;YANG Shi-bin;WANG Shan-ping;BI Peng-yu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  63-65. 

Abstract ( 1085 )   PDF (97KB) ( 417 )   Save

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This paper introduces the independent research of a testing instrument for evaluating the textile′s negative ion emission property.And reliability of test results is enhanced through improvement.The instrument is used to carry out a series testing of the negative ion emission property of the fabric of pure soybean protein fibers and its blended fabric.The experiment results show that the soybean protein fibers can emit certain amount of negative ions.

Properties of spun silk/Nylon filaments sirofil composite yarn

HUANG Li-qian;LIU Shui-lian;JIANG Yao-xing;WANG Shan-yuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  66-69. 

Abstract ( 1090 )   PDF (123KB) ( 385 )   Save

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By using low stretch Nylon filament yarn and spun silk roving,the spun silk/Nylon filaments sirofil composite yarns were spun with various twists and feeding distances between Nylon filaments and spun silk roving at front roller.The tensile properties,yarn evenness and hairiness of sirofil composite yarn were measured.By variance analysis,it was concluded that the breaking strength and elongation at break of composite yarn increase with increasing of twist,but little dependence on the feeding distance;no significant effect is observed on the composite yarn evenness by the twist and feeding distance;and the hairiness of composite yarn lessenes with the increasing of both twist and feeding distance. The optimized spinning parameters for the sirofil composite yarn in the spinning experiments were obtained: 850 twist/m and feeding distance at front roller of(18 mm.)

Effect of feed plate gauge on fiber length distribution

WANG Lan;SUN Peng-zi;ZHANG Ming-guang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  70-73. 

Abstract ( 1154 )   PDF (102KB) ( 498 )   Save

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The length distribution of sliver fiber under conditions of different feed plate gauge was tested by USTER AFIS and fiber length distribution in taker-in droppings and card strips was tested by cotton fiber length analyzer.The results prove that the feed plate gauge remarkably affects fiber length distribution of card sliver.In general,the longer the gauge is,the less is the damage to the fiber.The reason is that a longer gauge will decrease the cotton length for carding.It is proposed that the fiber damage will be judged by both fiber length distributions in droppings and in card sliver.It may be one-sided to judge the damage only by short fiber content in card sliver.

Activation and adsorption of ACF needle felt

CHEN Dong-sheng;GAN Ying-jin;ZHANG Hong-wei;WANG Jian-gang;WAN Ya-bo;BAI Yue

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  74-76. 

Abstract ( 895 )   PDF (107KB) ( 652 )   Save

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A needle felt was produced with the blend of polyacrylonitrile(PAN) and viscose fibers.Then,the needle felt was pre-oxidized in the air at 230～(250 ℃),followed by carbonizing and activating by one-step process.A detailed research was conducted on the technologies of production,pre-oxidization,and one step carbonization-activation of the needle felt.Its pre-oxidization extent was expressed with the moisture content.The iodine adsorption capacity and yield of the activated carbon fiber(ACF) needle felt were also studied.

Finishing of silk fabric with propanetriol-diglycidylether and chitosan

HUANG Chen;XIANG Wei;FANG Li-na;WANG Hong;ZHANG Hui-juan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  77-79. 

Abstract ( 1248 )   PDF (108KB) ( 414 )   Save

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The silk fabric was treated with propanetriol-diglycidyl-ether and chitosan in an attempt to improve its serviceability,anti-bacterial and wrinkle resistant properties.The grafting of propanetriol-diglycidyl-ether onto the silk fabric was accomplished by microwave radiation,followed by finishing the grafted fabric with the chitosan-acetic acid solution through double-dip-double-nip.The finishing process was optimized by means of orthogonal analytic method.The mechanical properties and the whiteness of the finished silk fabric were tested.The findings indicated that the treated silk fabric has improved its wrinkle resistance significantly with the angle of fast-elastic recovery enhanced about 50°,the angle of delayed-elastic recovery enhanced about 30°,and the breaking strength and whiteness dropped slightly.

Research on the dispersing method of nanometer SiO₂

WU Min;CHENG Xiu-ping;GE Ming-qiao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  80-82. 

Abstract ( 1223 )   PDF (111KB) ( 821 )   Save

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The unique structure of nanometer SiO_2,its property,dispersing method and the instruments employed were discussed.The nanometer suspension was prepared through ultrasonic vibrating and addition of selected dispersants.Oven and nanometer diameter methods were adopted to analyze the dispersing result of the nanometer suspension which contained different mass fractions of dispersion agent to investigate proper dispersion conditions for it.It was suggested that the dispersing effect of nanometer SiO_2 in water be characterized by the dispersing efficiency and the change of size of nanometer particles in the dispersed suspension.It is found that the integrated physico-chemical dispersing method is a better one for nanometer SiO_2 in which an ultrasonic cleaner is used as dispersing instrument and appropriate dosage of sodium hexametaphosphate as dispersant.

Study of TiO₂/wool powder modified polyurethane membrane and its performances

DENG Chun-yu;HUANG Kai-xun;XU Wei-lin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  83-86. 

Abstract ( 957 )   PDF (120KB) ( 554 )   Save

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The superfine wool powder modification of polyurethane(PU) can improve the moisture permeability of its membrane,but the mechanical properties of the membrane drops considerably.In order to enhance the waterproof and moisture permeability of PU membrane while retaining its mechanical properties,PU membranes were made through the superfine wool powder and the TiO₂ compound modification of PU.The effect of addition of the powders on mechanical,moisture permeable,hydroscopic and waterproof properties of the membrane was discussed.The results indicate that the superfine wool powder and the TiO₂ compound modification of PU is an effective approach to improve the moisture permeability of polyurethane membrane.

应用技术

Processing knitting yarn of Lyocell fiber with rotor spinning

ZHU Jun;ZHANG Hong-mei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  87-90. 

Abstract ( 980 )   PDF (103KB) ( 404 )   Save

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Lyocell fiber has excellent mechanical properties.The pleasant hand feeling and appearance of the knitted fabric of this fiber make it very promising for product development and various applications.Furthermore,the advantages of the rotor spun yarn impart its knitted fabric superior quality.The(28 tex) knitting yarns of Lyocell fiber were manufactured by rotor spinning process,and the preparatory spinning technology was investigated.The relationship between process parameters of rotor spinning and yarn quality is researched through comparing the results of spinning trials.The present work has provided a reference for reasonable selection of process parameters and enhancing the quality of the rotor spun yarn of Lyocell fiber.

Theory and practice on reducing yarn hairiness in winding processes

WANG Jian-kun;YANG Jian-cheng;GAO Xiao-ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  91-94. 

Abstract ( 1242 )   PDF (154KB) ( 446 )   Save

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A special hairiness reducing nozzle was attached on a winding machine. The design and attachment of the nozzle should not change the yarn twists and strength.The mechanism of hairiness reducing of the nozzle was analyzed,which utilized an air-jet to produce the rotating air stream to perform false twisting,de-twisting and wrapping of the yarn so as to wrap the hairiness onto or twist it into the main yarn,thus reducing yarn hairiness.The position and method for attaching the nozzle were introduced.The hairiness index,hairiness appearance,twist and strength of the yarn produced by the winding machine attached with the nozzle were examined.The results indicate that the processed yarns have their hairiness index lowered,hairiness appearance improved,and the twist and strength kept unchanged,which verified the hairiness reducing effect of the nozzle.

Application of ultrasonic technology in the dyeing of hemp fabrics

GAO Shu-zhen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  95-97. 

Abstract ( 1106 )   PDF (97KB) ( 440 )   Save

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In order to open up the application field of ultrasonic technology in textile dyeing,an applied study of ultrasonic dyeing of the hemp fabric with vat dyes was carried out.The results show that compared with the conventional dyeing process,ultrasonic dyeing technology can improve the abrasion fastness of the dyed fabric significantly,enhance dye up-take with the amount of dyes lessened and environment-pollution reduced,increase the diffusion coefficient,thus reducing the activated energy of dyeing,saving energy and raising productivity. Ultrasonic technology makes it possible the low temperature dyeing of the hemp fabric with vat dyes in a shortened process.

Application of computer color matching of polyester/cotton blended fabric

WANG Ping;GE Hui-yan;FAN Xue-rong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  98-101. 

Abstract ( 1527 )   PDF (108KB) ( 475 )   Save

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In polyester/cotton(T/C) blended fabric dyeing,color staining often occurs to another kind of fiber,which results in lowering of the veracity of color matching.To solve this problem,color matching experiments for two-bath dyeing of T/C fabric with disperse/reactive dyes were carried out based on monochromatic color databases for pure cotton or for pure polyester in consideration of cotton staining.The experiment results show that this method can obtain higher color match veracity when applied to the single or two shade pitching of the samples with the projected amount in the recipe close to the actual dosage and less aberration after shading.However,the color matching veracity is lowered a little bit when this method is applied three shade pitching of samples.The factors affecting the color matching veracity were also analyzed.This color matching method is suitable for computer color matching of polyester/cotton blended fabric.

Automatic control system for the production process of antistatic agent for polyester tent fabrics

DONG Xiu-jie;ZHOU Guang-hui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  102-104. 

Abstract ( 848 )   PDF (99KB) ( 423 )   Save

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This article introduced the automatic control system for the production of the antistatic agent for polyester tent fabrics,and described the principle of the hardware make-up and the programming of the software of the automatic control system.The antistatic property of the plastic coated polyester tent fabrics treated with the antistatic agent produced using automatic control was tested.It demonstrated through comparison and analysis that the antistatic property of the treated fabric has improved remarkably and that the automatic control system operates reliably.

Study on forming factors of apparel lapel collar pattern

SHANG Xiao-mei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  105-108. 

Abstract ( 1010 )   PDF (127KB) ( 486 )   Save

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This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar with focuses on the factors affecting it,i.e.,the roll angle,the width of lapel,and thickness of the fabric.Mathematic study was done on the differences between the inside lapel collar and the outside lapel collar of the turndown lapel collar to find out the relationship between roll angle and the thickness of fabric. The study showed that the thicker the fabric,the larger the difference of the curves between the outside and inside lapel collars.A quantitative relationship exists between them.

Research on the range of mechanical properties and characteristic parameters with fabric and fusible interlinings

WANG Jing;LI Xiu-chun;ZHANG Wei-yuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  109-112. 

Abstract ( 900 )   PDF (254KB) ( 363 )   Save

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The mechanical properties which were tested first and basic values of fabrics and fusible interlinings were selected and analyzed.The qualities of fusible composites were classified into three groups: good,medium and bad.The concluded values were dealt with mathematical method and the 95% range of mechanical properties and characteristic parameters of fabric and fusible interlinings was obtained.According to the 95% range,the charter of the fabrics and fusible interlinings was constructed and the apparel industry was gained good results according to this chater.

综合述评

Development of costume constructions across time and space

ZHANG Gao-peng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  113-116. 

Abstract ( 1273 )   PDF (268KB) ( 561 )   Save

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Costumes can be categorized in the western and the non-western in the view of costumes construction.Western costumes are developed from the original no cutting and no sewing clothing and now become popular in our daily wearing.Meanwhile,non-western costumes are still survived in various traditional ethnic costumes in different countries.Their diversified structures have been giving a profound impact to the contemporary fashion design.The development with the time and various characters in different areas about costume construction are analyzed and studied.

Orientation of Beijing′s apparel industry and its grounds

CHEN Gui-ling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(4):  117-120. 

Abstract ( 1106 )   PDF (97KB) ( 482 )   Save

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This paper analyzed the relative advantages of Beijing in developing apparel industry;investigated the fundamental elements of Beijing′s apparel industry,market potential and regional planning;and studied the characteristics inherent to the apparel industry with the industrial economy theory and strategic development theory.On this basis,it has put forth a rational positioning of Beijing′s apparel industry,that is,to build Beijing into a center of education and R&D,business and trade,information and communications,industry research and management consultation,the orient apparel research and culture,and finally,into the fashion capital of China,or even of the world.