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Table of Content

    15 March 2006, Volume 27 Issue 3
    • 研究论文
      Study on the constitutive equation of fiber bundle
      WANG Chun-min
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  1-3. 
      Abstract ( 813 )   PDF (125KB) ( 692 )   Save
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      Based on anisotropic elastic theory,the linear and nonlinear constitutive equations of twistless fiber bundles were worked out by utilizing elastic mechanics.The curve of elongation properties of the fiber bundles was plotted according to the experiments of longitudinal extension and transverse compression of the bundles.The geometric relevance to deformation of the twisted fiber bundle was analyzed and the influence of twisting on performance parameters of the bundle was revealed by energy method.The importance of research of constitutive equation in projecting the mechanical behavior of textile composites materials was expounded.
      Study on the thread guide trench curved surface of a grooved drum
      YANG Jian-cheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  4-7. 
      Abstract ( 938 )   PDF (117KB) ( 591 )   Save
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      As far as the rotary blade-based thread guide mechanism is concerned. Most of the rotary blades′ back and forth movement is driven by grooved drum when they are used for making threads.To design the trench curved surface of the grooved drum is the key to the design of grooved drum.A new design method of trench curved surface of grooved drum is proposed: synthetic design can be obtained according to textile technology.Several design formulas of the grooved drum are deduced.In addition,the method of selecting design parameters is given in the light of illustrative examples.This design method may be used for reference.
      Edge detection of fabric in fabric drape performance testing system
      LIU Xuan-mu;SHEN Yi;WANG Shou-bing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  8-10. 
      Abstract ( 935 )   PDF (261KB) ( 461 )   Save
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      Because of the diversity of printing patterns of fabrics,traditional image segmentation arithmetic usually can not detect the drape contours of fabrics correctly.Therefore,according to features of the contours in fabric drape images,an active contour model(Snakes model)based on the gradient vector flow(GVF) field is proposed to recognize the edges of fabrics.A Snake edge detection model is implemented by greedy arithmetic,and then the drape contours of 5 typical printing fabrics detected by this model are compared with the contours extracted by edge gradient scanning.The result of the experiment shows that this edge detection model is able to precisely detect various drape contours of special printing fabrics,which can not be detected precisely,or even are undetectable,by traditional image segmentation arithmetic.
      Structure and water vapor permeability of fabric for medical protective wear
      YANG Jian-zhong;WANG Xin-yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 1030 )   PDF (132KB) ( 552 )   Save
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      The structure of the fabric for medical protective wear was observed with the scan electron microscope(SEM),and the characteristics of fabrics with various composite structure were analyzed.The water vapor permeability of the protective fabrics was tested with the moisture absorption method and the evaporation respectively.The water vapor permeability of the multilayer fabric under simulated medical wear was tested too.The experiments show that polytetrafluoroethylene(PTFE) membrane laminated fabric possesses a high water vapor permeability,while PU coated fabric and TPU coated non-woven fabric possess a low water vapor permeability as well as obvious coating defects and exfoliating.Compared with the moisture absorption method,the the evaporation test indicates a small value of the water vapor permeability under the same conditions.The water vapor permeability declines as the layer of the fabric increases.
      研究探讨
      Microwave activation technology of electro-spun PAN fibers and their adsorptivity
      JI Tao;NI Zhao-hui;XU Shan-qing;GAO Qiang;HUANG Xiao-mei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  16-20. 
      Abstract ( 888 )   PDF (179KB) ( 538 )   Save
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      This paper introduced the electro-spinning of PAN fibers,equipments and methods for microwave activation of electro-spun PAN fibers.The effect of PAN content on electro-spun PAN fibers and the relationship between activation yield,adsorbent efficiency of benzene and activation time were researched.And a comparison was made of activation yield and adsorbent efficiency of benzene between the conventional PAN-based activated carbon fibers,rayon-based activated carbon fibers and electro-spun PAN fibers.It is considered that the activated carbon fibers with more activation yield and better adsorptivity can be obtained by means of electro-spun PAN fibers.
      Enzymatic treatment of rabbit hair fiber
      XI Bo-jun;TANG Li-min;ZHANG Cai-qian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  21-23. 
      Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (106KB) ( 426 )   Save
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      Rabbit hair fiber is characterized by smooth fiber surface,low coefficient of friction,and the tendency to depilating.To overcome these phenomena,the rabbit hair was first treated with hydrogen peroxide solution(30%),followed by enzymatic treatment so that weigh deduction of the fiber was achieved to a certain extent.The effect of protease content and enzymatic treating time on the fiber diameter,strength,elongation,and the coefficient of surface friction was analyzed,and a suitable process of enzymatic treatment was determined,which changed the morphological structure of the fiber surface with the least possible variation in strength and elongation.Thus,the fiber surface friction coefficient,inter-fiber cohesion,and spinnability were enhanced,and the depilation of the rabbit hair textile product was also greatly improved.
      Study on constructing the 3D yarn model by B-spline surface (part Ⅱ):inserting 3D bumping texture on the surface of the yarn
      ZHENG Tian-yong;CUI Shi-zhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  24-26. 
      Abstract ( 1130 )   PDF (118KB) ( 613 )   Save
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      Having constructed a single yarn with different cross sections 3D model,a concave-convex type turbulence is exerted randomly on the cross sections while rotating the sections along the radial direction of the yarn so that a wave-like twist effect is generated on the yarn.This is equivalent to the 3D bumping texture being inserted on the surface of the yarn,improving the vividness of the simulated yarns,especially to the yarn with a nearly round cross section.
      Selection and characterization of bacillus for enzymatic degumming of ramie fiber
      CHU Chang-liu;ZHENG Jie-de
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  27-29. 
      Abstract ( 1035 )   PDF (104KB) ( 714 )   Save
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      With a new type basophil original bacillus B13 as starting raw material,the genetic mutation breeding induced by the ultraviolet radiation was used, and two excellent bacilli S2 and S11 were selected,which were utilized for synthesizing more active pectinase and hemicellulase.Their development properties,rough enzyme mixture and appetency were analyzed.It is found that the enzyme mixture of S2 shows better appetency,more active,shorter generation time,and stronger fissility than B13 and S11,and is more suitable for degumming of ramie fiber.
      Influence of different nitrogen additives on the biological degumming result of the apocynum
      HAN Guang-ting;ZHANG Yuan-ming;SUN Ya-ning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  30-32. 
      Abstract ( 1128 )   PDF (104KB) ( 427 )   Save
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      From microorganism′s composition,growth and reproduction and so on it is elaborated that the nitrogen was the essential element to microorganism vital activity.Degumming experiment was carried out with the ammonium salt and the nitrate as the nitrogen additive.The result indicated that the different nitrogen element has the different influence on apocynum venetum degumming,the remnant pectin rate is 14.1% with ammonium salt as nitrogen additive,15% with the nitrate.It demonstrates that the impact on degumming of apocynum venetum is different with different nitrogen additive through using the half response equation.The experiment and theory all indicates that the effect of ammonium salt as the degumming nitrogen additive is better than the effect of nitrate as the degumming nitrogen additive.
      Vectorization method of jacquard image
      CHENG Hong-mei;YAN Gang-feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  33-35. 
      Abstract ( 857 )   PDF (105KB) ( 473 )   Save
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      Vectograph describes images and patterns.Its storage is much smaller than that of the bitmap of the same image.Big color block images are often used in the textile industry.Since the jacquard image is a big color block and the outline is clear,the chain-codemethod is adopted to trace the outline of every big color block and get the outlines of them.Then,the beeline and curve method is used for fitting the contours.Beeline fitting can keep the part of linearization and the acute angle of outlines of previous color blocks.For fitting the curve part,the least-squaremethod using three cubed Bezier curves is used.And good effect is achieved.
      Study and combinatorial design of linear color-weave effects of fabric
      SUI Jian-hua;GU Ping;ZHOU Yang;ZHOU Juan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  36-39. 
      Abstract ( 853 )   PDF (248KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      The linear effect is a typical kind of color-weave effects of fabric,which are made from different color yarns and fabric weave.Linear color-weave effects of fabric are widely applied in garment and decoration fields because of their particular decorative fabric texture.The researchers analyzed the array theory of weave point of linear color-weave effects of fabric,discussed the array elements of fabric weaves,from double colors to plural colors,including lengthways and transverse effects,and enumerated some methods of combinatorial design of the effects such as linear combination,planar-combination,and linear-planar-complex.Finally,the primary concept about computer design on linear color-weave effects of fabric was presented along with designs and tips for practical product development.
      基于MATLAB的六连杆打纬机构优化设计及仿真
      MA Shi-ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  40-42. 
      Abstract ( 1045 )   PDF (116KB) ( 915 )   Save
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      This paper presents a new method for performing optimal design and kinematical simulation on a 6-link beating construction with tool software.First,the optimization function in MATLAB toolbox is introduced,and a mathematical model containing eight independent variables is built and solved.Then,a simulation model is constructed in ADAMS using the optimal design,and the expected kinematical characteristics are achieved.
      基于算子的人体数字图像边缘检测算法
      LI Xiao-jiu;ZHAO Jing-miao;WANG Yu-xiu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  43-46. 
      Abstract ( 822 )   PDF (456KB) ( 648 )   Save
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      This paper discussed the principle of edge detection for digital image and the algorithm based on the edge detective operators.The detective methods have been used in 2D untouched body measurement system for edge detection of digital body images.The result of experiments shows that Sobel and Smoothed operators have good effects on image enhancement,suppressing the noise and providing clear-cut profile lines.They can be used effectively for body contour detection.
      Applying the aspect orient mannequin modeling to garment CAD
      WU Zhi-ming;WANG Peng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  47-51. 
      Abstract ( 913 )   PDF (172KB) ( 451 )   Save
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      According to the AOP(aspect oriented programming) programming method, a new mannequin modeling mode named AOMM(aspect orient mannequin modeling)is proposed.This mode in the course of developing garment CAD can be applied.The basic thesis implicated in this mode is that in the course of mannequin modeling for garment CAD,should take different methods rather than relying only one.For example,according to the different aspects of fashion pattern design and fashion style design,the measuring reconstruction method and the imported 3DS method for a mannequin model can be separately took.
      On-line decision support system(ODSS) based on collaborative product commerce(CPC) for garment trade
      SUN Yong-jian;LI Ren-wang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  52-55. 
      Abstract ( 1075 )   PDF (145KB) ( 539 )   Save
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      In recent years,data mining has found wide application in market and client analysis and forecast.Combined with the collaborative product commerce(CPC) platform of the garment sector,the demand on apparel are effectively analyzed using data mining technology based on the historical data of the garment enterprise.Under this guidance,the on-line decision support system based on CPC for garment trade is developed.
      Research on the strategy of CPC and system for costume
      WEI Bo;LI Ren-wang;ZHENG Li-peng;LU Xue-jun;WANG Ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  56-59. 
      Abstract ( 915 )   PDF (130KB) ( 549 )   Save
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      As a Web-based solution,CPC takes the cooperation among customers,manufacturers,and suppliers into account.To meet customers′ diversified and changing needs agilely,innovation is desired,which may be accomplished by integrating intelligence form all personnel concerned.By incorporating the characters of clothing production with CPC theory,the traditional serial clothing process was compared with the advanced clothing CPD,and clothing CPC frame structure and solution program were provided.The CPC system was studied in terms of its framework,components,and developing platform.The theory of Pan-CRM under the clothing CPC frame was proposed.
      测试分析
      Production and property of antimicrobial chitosan fibers
      QIN Yi-min;CHEN Yan-zhen;ZHANG Ce
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  60-62. 
      Abstract ( 878 )   PDF (170KB) ( 484 )   Save
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      This study used AgNO_3 solutions to treat chitosan fibers.Since the amine groups in the chitosan have chelating abilities,silver ions are absorbed onto chitosan fibers.When the silver-contained fibers are in contact with normal saline,the silver ions are released into the solution,acting as an antimicrobial agent.Experimental results show that the silver-contained chitosan fibers have much better antimicrobial effect than the untreated chitosan fibers.
      Behavior of strength loss of PLA fiber during wet processing
      HU Yu-qun;XU Xiu-juan;HAN Jian;ZHOU Wen-long
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  63-66. 
      Abstract ( 997 )   PDF (145KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      The behavior of strength loss of PLA fiber treated in the temperature of 30~90℃ and pH value of 3.85~11.8 was studied.The investigations show that,although the weak acidic condition of the liquor confer the relatively less damage to the PLA fiber,the significant damage still happened if treatment time was long enough.In the alkaline condition,with the increasing of pH value,temperature and time of treatment,the significantly increased strength loss of fiber will be present.
      T型壁板RFI缝合复合材料的屈曲性能
      ZHANG Guo-li;LI Jia-lu;LI Xue-ming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  67-70. 
      Abstract ( 923 )   PDF (114KB) ( 655 )   Save
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      An experimental study of the rheology behavior of BS3-94-10 type epoxy resin film,the compactibility of the pre-fabricated laminate and the interlaminate shearing and bending properties of the coupon of RFI stitched composite were carried out,and the optimal technical parameters of resin film infusion and stitching process were designed.On this basis,high performance T-shape composites panels were fabricated.The buckling performance of the T-shape composites panels before and after stitching was tested.The results show that stitching can significantly improve their buckling performances.
      Manufacture and performance of polyurethane coated multi-functional fabrics
      XU Xu-fan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  71-73. 
      Abstract ( 1093 )   PDF (103KB) ( 824 )   Save
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      The coating agent was prepared by adding PU solution to the appropriate amount of chitosan solution while adjusting the viscosity and then applied to fabrics through transfer coating technique.The hydrostatic pressure and moisture permeability testers were used to examine the permeability,waterproof and antimicrobial properties of the coated fabrics.The results show that although chitosan has some effects on the hydrostatic pressure proof of the coated fabrics,it improves the moisture permeability remarkably and renders the fabrics antimicrobial property.Thus,a multi-functional coated fabric which has waterproofing, water vapor transmission and micro-organism resistance incorporated has been manufactured.
      应用技术
      Influence of wind′s flow of web cleaner in a carding machine on the quality of card sliver
      SUN Peng-zi;SHAO Jing-dang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  74-76. 
      Abstract ( 981 )   PDF (111KB) ( 566 )   Save
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      Some quality specifications of card slivers are tested under three conditions.The short fibers,neps and trash in card sliver are checked by AFIS single fiber test system under different wind′s flow conditions.The result shows that either too large or too small wind′s flow at back plate is unfavorable to card sliver quality,and a wind′s flow about 180~240 m~3/h is advantageous under such conditions.
      Two-for-one twist spindle CHF
      CAO Hong-mei;SHEN Xiao-fei;REN Xue-qin;ZHAO Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  77-79. 
      Abstract ( 977 )   PDF (195KB) ( 529 )   Save
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      An entering two-for-one twist spindle CHF,a neoteric spindle in spinning frame,was introduced with respect to its structure,performance and two-for-one twist principle,which found a solution to the winding power.Compared with the same rotation rate of conventional spindle,the new spindle can redouble the turns of twist and production because of the two-for-one twist principle.The new spindle has the advantages of large package and doubling and twisting.The sample frame with the neoteric spindle was also introduced.
      Investigation of siro cotton/Spandex core-spun yarn
      WU Sui-ju;JI Xiao-lei;QIAN Qing-yu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  80-82. 
      Abstract ( 1099 )   PDF (93KB) ( 609 )   Save
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      Siro cotton/Spandex core-spun yarn which possesses the advantages of good evenness and little hairiness of siro yarn and brings into play the power stretch of Spandex fiber is ideal for production of all kinds of elastic fabric.The relationship between main technical parameters(twist factor,roving interval,pre-drafting) and yarn quality index(hairiness,strength,breaking elongation,evenness) of siro cotton/Spandex core-spun yarn was tested and optimized,providing a reference for spinning siro cotton/Spandex core-spun yarns.
      Influence of carding,drum and output speed of friction spinning on the strength of yarn
      ZHAO Shu-lin;ZHANG Hao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  83-85. 
      Abstract ( 1154 )   PDF (109KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      It is an important task to improve the strength of yarn,especially of the fine yarn,in friction spinning research.A great deal of experiments and analysis have been conducted in respect to the carding speed,drum speed and output speed of fine yarn spinning by friction spinning system.The experiments show that different carding speed should be used according to different fineness of yarns,and the speed should be higher for finer yarns.In order to acquire optimal strength of the yarn,friction ratio should be determined rationally when fiber output is constant.This paper has provided a basis for improving the strength of yarn of friction spinning in determining carding,drum and output speeds.
      Optimized designing of grafting modification of linen by plasma
      YU Na;LI Chun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  86-89. 
      Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (125KB) ( 571 )   Save
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      This article discussed the modification of linen fabric by grafting acrylamide(AAm) onto it initiated by low temperature plasma for improving its dyeability.The quadratic regression orthogonal design was adopted to establish function expression among dye-uptake and concentration of acrylamide,temperature of graft polymerization,potential of plasma treatment,and time of plasma treatment.Individual function expression of each factor and dye-uptake was presented. The best process conditions were determined as follows: 30%acrylamide,14.6 kV plasma treatment for 60 s at(25 ℃).
      Construction of angle-interlock woven fabrics
      NIE Jian-bin;LU Shi-yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  90-91. 
      Abstract ( 984 )   PDF (105KB) ( 572 )   Save
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      This paper presents a simplified method to describe the angle-interlock woven fabric construction.After studying the angle-interlock woven fabric construction,utilized the interrelationship of parameters of the weave,and obtained a method to represent the warp threads interlacement with a fractional formula and the weave and weaving plan.The method is more efficient and accurate in weave making and may be used to replace the conventional method which uses the schematic diagram to get the weaving plan.Furthermore,it has laid a foundation for CAD design.
      Manufacture and property of multi-functional nano-titanium dioxide finishing agents for fabric
      DENG Hua;ZHANG Ji-mei;LI Xiu-ming;LI He;TANG Wan-sheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  92-94. 
      Abstract ( 1016 )   PDF (100KB) ( 788 )   Save
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      Nano-titanium dioxide finishing agents were prepared by sol-gel method and used for multi-functional treatment of cotton fabrics by dip-padding technique.The results show that fabrics treated with the finishing agent had excellent UV resistance,increased UPF,and good soaping fastness.In addition,it had good anti-bacterial property with bacterial inactivation rate over 80%.It was observed that the fabric texture and TiO2 concentration had an impact on the result of the finishing,higher the TiO2 concentration and denser the fabric texture,better the UV resistance and anti-bacterial property.
      Design of children′s ready-made clothing specifications
      LI Zhe;YAN Yu-xiu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  95-98. 
      Abstract ( 1004 )   PDF (103KB) ( 468 )   Save
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      According to the principle of independent and random sampling,598 pupils got the opportunity for body measurement involving 30 sizes of their bodies for the purpose of garment making.The factor analysis of data obtained was conducted by using statistical software.It was observed that obtaining the measurements of waist-hip length and crotch length was very important for making bottoms and due attention should be paid to.And using these as reference basis,the design of children′s ready-made clothing specifications was carried out,which covered grading number value and control position number value of all series.The children′s common clothing specifications with practical value were worked out,providing an important guidance for manufacturers in avoidance of blind production and unnecessary waste or loss.
      综合述评
      Preparation methods and application evolution of organosiloxane-acrylate emulsion
      LONG Bin;HUANG Chun-bao;WANG Hai-nan;MIN Yan-lin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  99-102. 
      Abstract ( 796 )   PDF (105KB) ( 433 )   Save
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      Polysiloxane-modified polyacrylates possess many excellent properties and find use in coatings,adhesives and textile finishing agents.The preparation methods and characteristics of organosioxane-acrylate emulsion were reviewed along with the progress of its applied study.
      Relationship between garment pressure and human body comfortableness
      SONG Xiao-xia;FENG Xun-wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  103-105. 
      Abstract ( 1660 )   PDF (94KB) ( 1568 )   Save
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      An overview of garment pressure addressed the relationship between garment pressure and human body comfortableness,the theoretical basis on garment pressure and previous study,introduction of studies which made great contributions in this scientific field and measurement of garment pressure.How to build up 3D dynamic garment pressure distribution model using numeric simulating method is explicated.
      Progress in research on computer-aided color matching
      YIN Xiu-lian;CHENG Xian-yi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  106-110. 
      Abstract ( 940 )   PDF (114KB) ( 776 )   Save
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      The use process of the computer-aided color matching system(CMS) could be divided into three stages: the pre(selection of dyes and process),the main(computation of dosage) and the after(selection of recipe) stages.A review on the research work regarding CMS is made inline with these three stages.It points out that ignorance of research for automation in the latter two stages is rather common.The three major color matching methods in the middle stage are discussed.And the color matching system program based on non-exact value computation is presented.
      Fundamental investigation of fabric style design based on garments
      CHEN Dong_sheng;GAN Ying-jin;WANG Jian-gang;WANG Qiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  111-116. 
      Abstract ( 912 )   PDF (127KB) ( 646 )   Save
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      Centering on the topic of fabric style design based on garments,discussed the relationship between the transformation of clothing and the development of the apparel fabric and pointed out that the concept of fabric design should be adaptable to the progress of social culture and the production techniques of fabric should meet the changing requirements of consumers in respect to garments.Creative thought is the motivity of the development of fabric material,and creative designing is the key to success.Innovation and development of fabric are basic foundations for upgrading of garments,and accelerate introduction of fashion and revolution of consumption.In turn,the innovation of garments gives an impetus to upgrading of fabrics.
      Draping technology and the applicability analysis
      DAI Jian-guo;CHEN Min-zhi;HE Ying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(3):  117-120. 
      Abstract ( 990 )   PDF (99KB) ( 771 )   Save
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      Researchers gave an introduction to the present situation of the application of draping technology in our country,made a comparison between flat pattern making and draping technique,and pointed out that the draping had unique effect in some special conditions,such as tailoring apparels with complicated structure and dealing with draping properties of stretch fabrics.