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Table of Content
15 February 2006, Volume 27 Issue 2
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研究论文
Distribution of the filament number of each cocoon layer in raw silk threads
LUO Jun;FEI Wan-chun
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 1-4.
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The probability distribution of the filament number of each cocoon layer in the raw silk by fixed number of cocoons reeling process was discussed.The probability distribution and statistic characteristic in stable reeling state were given.Computer simulation of reeling process was undertaken to verify the applicability and theoretical results.The model of stochastic process and the analysis results possess universality.
Study on the photo-assistant reducing decoloration mechanism of azo dyes
DONG Yong-chun;LI Chun-hui;ZHANG Bao-hua
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 5-8.
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1060
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The decoloration of 7 anionic water-soluble azo dyes in aqueous solutions was carried out by using photo-assistant sodium bisulfite/ potassium borohydride system based reductant,and the reaction mechanism was analyzed through UVVis spectrum.The effect of concentration of reductant and irradiation strength on decoloration of dyes was investigated.In addition,rapid colorimetric determination of benzidine compounds released from(photo-)assistant reduction of selected direct dyes was also conducted.The results indicate that photo-assistant reduction of azo dyes may first lead to formation of hydride azo compounds,and higher concentration of the reductant and enhanced irradiation improve the decoloration of azo dyes.The confirmation of benzidine compounds in decolorized solutions demonstrates that further reduction of azo dyes with sodium bisulfite/ potassium borohydride system based reducing agent will produce aromatic amine.
Cross-linking modification of cellulose fibers and its dyeing property
SUN Yan;HOU Ai-qin;XIE Kong-liang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 9-12.
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997
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Modification of cellulose fibers were undertaken with cationic compounds containing epoxy based(multi-reactive) groups as the(cross-linking) agent,and the dyeing properties of the modified fibers were investigated.The results show that the modified fibers can be dyed with reactive dyes with zero salt.The dyed fibers have better color yield and fastness,higher dye uptake and fixation rate than the unmodified fibers.Thus,the efficiency of the dye is improved significantly.
Study of gel form intelligent cotton knitgoods with polymer grafting initiated by microwave plasma
MA Xiao-guang;CUI Gui-xin;DONG Shao-wei
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 13-16.
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1000
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2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid(AMPS) was grafted onto the knitted cotton fabric by argon microwave plasma.The formation of the grafted fabric surface was confirmed by IR spectra.The grafting process conditions were optimized by orthogonal design,variance analysis and mathematical statistics method.The surface morphology,hydrostatic pressure,moisture permeability and bursting strength of the knitted cotton fabric before and after grafting were examined.The results show that the hydrostatic pressure of the grafted wet fabric increases greatly and it responds smartly to the change of moisture at the environment,whereas the grafted dry fabric shows slight decrease in moisture permeability and the bursting strength.
研究探讨
Calculate the permeability of fabric by the fractal theory
LU Zhen-qian;QIAN Kun
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 17-19.
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962
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A new method to calculate the permeability of fabric by using the fractal permeability model is introduced.This model is based on the fractal characteristics of pore in the fabric,and the permeability model can be expressed as a function of the pore area fractal dimension and architectural parameters of fabric.So it can be used to predict the permeability of fabric.Taking the plain fabric as an example,the yarn′s architectural model is improved so that the fabric′s permeability is calculated more exactly.
Feature of acoustic emission and failure analysis for three-dimensional braided composite material under compressive load
WAN Zhen-kai;LI Jing-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 20-24.
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1040
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This paper describes the application and experimental method of acoustic emission(AE) for three-dimensional(3-D) braided composite material under compressive fatigue loading and presents the features of acoustic emission during compressive test process for(three-)dimensional braided composite material.The experiment results show that the AE parameters can elaborate the failure mechanism of inner deformation of the three-dimensional braided composite material under different conditions.The surface braided angle is an important parameter affecting the mechanical properties of the three-dimensional braided composite material.When the braided angle is less than 30 degree,it has better compressive property;and when the braided angle is larger than 40 degree,its compressive property shows remarkably declined.The research has provided a theoretical basis for mechanics analysis and technique improvement of the composite material.
Preparation and mechanism of β-cyclodextrin grafted cellulose fiber
XIA You-yi;WAN Jun-min
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 25-28.
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980
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β-cyclodextrin grafted cellulose fiber was prepared with epoxy group as cross-linking bridge,and its structure was analyzed.The graft mechanism was investigated and the optimal grafting process conditions were determined.The experiment results indicate that it is practical to prepare β-cyclodextrin grafted cellulose with epoxy group as cross-linking bridge.The optimized process conditions of epoxidation reaction are as follows: for(1 g) cellulose fiber,(7 mL) epichlorohydrin and(6 mL) NaOH 40% solution are added,reacting for(2.5 h) at(40 ℃.) No fundamental destruction is observed in the molecular structure of the cellulose resulting from the grafting.These findings are beneficial to developing the application area of β-cyclodextrin in the textile industry.
Risk assessment analysis on extractable heavy metals in textiles
JI Lei;DU Heng-qing;SUN Jian;WANG Yan;NIU Zeng-yuan;LIU Xin-tong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 29-32.
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881
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Contents of extractable heavy metals in 35 kinds of textiles originated from EC and 69 kinds from China were determined according to the method of Oeko-Tex Standard 100.Textiles of EC and China origin were distinctively classified by linear discriminate analysis(LDA) based on the data of extractable heavy metals,and the extractable heavy metals having great effects on the classification were explained by linear discriminate function;the main factors which determined the discrepancy of textiles between the two origins in extractable heavy metals were investigated based on the scores of variables by factor analysis(FA).
Image segmentation based on the minimum risk Bayes decision
BAO Xiao-min;WANG Ya-ming
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 33-36.
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907
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For using machine vision technology to detect textile image,segmentation way of textile image is researched.By the minimum risk Bayes decision theory,this paper develops a new way of image segmentation: establish the mathematics model of image segmentation;estimate the probability density of grey scales and figure out its math-expectation and square difference that accord with normal distribution and the loss function;and judge the every pixel dot in the image according to the minimum risk Bayes decision theory and determine whether it is of target or non-target images,thereby realizing the extraction of the target image.The experimental results indicate that the method is efficient and practicable.
Fuzzy control of the leveling control system based on the least square method
LI Wei;ZHU Xin-jian;WEI Peng-xiao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 37-40.
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1146
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This research work was devoted to the domestic made A186 carding machine,and a dynamic mathematic model was established for it using the data acquired on the spot with the least square method.A fuzzy controller was designed based on the relation between import and export of the linear density of the cotton sliver.The effect of the auto-level was evaluated with the performance index of the output cotton sliver.Simulation results show that the variance of linear density of the output cotton sliver is apparently smaller for an adjusted fuzzy controller than that for the PID controller.
Radial scan algorithm for fabric drape digital image contour detection
WANG Shou-bing;ZHOU Hua;SHEN Yi;LIU Xuan-mu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 41-44.
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1059
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According to the actual requirements of automatic processing of fabric drape images,a simple but practical radial scan algorithm is proposed.First,identify the center of the disk on the sample,cut the valid area from the original image,and conduct the necessary preprocessing,and then,use the radial scan algorithm to find out the preliminary contour points.By removing the points which are not on the contour and connecting the points remained with lines in sequence,a curve can be formed.When the contour points are adequate enough,the curve can be thought as the contour of the sample.Compared with the traditional gradient operator algorithm,the radial scan algorithm is more applicable and reliable.The design,execution process,and characteristics of the radial scan algorithm are expounded with examples.
Treatment of cotton fabrics using chitosan antimicrobial agent
DENG Bing-yao;GAO Wei-dong;YAO Jing;LU Na
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 45-48.
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The blended chitosan with a deacetylation degree over 90%,a viscosity-average molecular weight from 4.5×10~5 to 5.0×10~5,amounted for 60% of the total weight,and a viscosity-average molecular weight from 1.0×10~5 to 1.5×10~5,accounted for 40% was used.An effective chitosan antimicrobial agent was made from amino-organic-silicon micro-emulsion,evenly blended with 5% chitosan dissolved in 6% citric acid solution.Results show that the cotton fabrics treated with this agent exhibit good antimicrobial properties against staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli after 30 laundering cycles.
Garment pattern design based on artificial neural network
HU Jue-liang;DONG Jian-ming;HE Ying;ZOU Feng-yuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 49-52.
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Flat pattern design is a very complex process.A pattern master has to take years to gain valuable experience through repeated practice.The method using BP algorithm of ANN to simulate the pattern master′s experience and technique is proposed and used in the flat pattern design of women trousers.This method realizes automatic mapping from the body measurement to the garment size with higher accuracy.Experimental results show that this method is feasible.
Study on constructing the 3D yarn model by B-spline surface(partⅠ): construction of the 3D yarn model with different cross sections
ZHENG Tian-yong;CUI Shi-zhong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 53-57.
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1056
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In order to construct a universal 3D yarn model with different cross sections,the design methods of yarns with such cross sections as circle,running path,convex mirror,rectangle,and bowel by B-spline curve were investigated.Then,the B-spline surface was used to connect several sections of yarns and construct a single yarn having different cross sections 3D model.
测试分析
Heat-melt adhesion and mechanical properties of modified thermoplastic polyurethane
WANG Xin-feng;LUO Xin;WANG Xiao-dong;WU Hui-li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 58-60.
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939
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Films for lamination were prepared via a melt blending of thermoplastic polyurethane(TPU) and polyester with low melt point,and their moisture permeability,thermal bonding properties,resistance to hydrostatic pressure and mechanical properties were tested.The investigation demonstrated that the peel strength was improved and lamination temperature decreased when the polyester was added.However,it would also result in negative effect to moisture permeability and softness.Therefore,the introduction amount of the polyester with low melt point into the TPU should be controlled in the proper range so as to realize the goal of improving its heat-melt adhesion.
Study of inclusion medicine of cellulose fiber grafted with β-cyclodextrin
WAN Jun-min;HU Zhi-wen;CHEN Wen-xing;ZHENG Shi-rui
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 61-64.
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941
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A new kind of functional cellulose fiber grafted with β-cyclodextrin(βCD) was synthesized in an alkaline medium,which contained an inclusion complex of resorcinol drug.The stability constant and apparent thermodynamic parameter of the inclusion complex under different temperatures were determined,and its stability and releasing behavior in aqueous solution were also examined.It is observed that inclusion reaction which is affected by van der waals is one kind of exothermic.The inclusion complex contained in the fiber is rather stable under(25 ℃),and its release of resorcinol reaches nearly optimum state is around(36 ℃,) which is the normal temperature of the human body.
Influence of plasma treatment on contact angles of PP fibers
HUANG Feng-lin;WEI Qu-fu;XU Wen-zheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 65-67.
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1117
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The change in surface morphology and contact angle of the polypropylene(PP) fibers treated by low temperature plasma is discussed.The instrumentation of contact angle measurement based on Wilhelmy technique offers a new approach to measuring the dynamic contact angle of fibers,which can be used to characterize the wettability of the fiber.The relationship between the morphology and the dynamic contact angle of polypropylene fibers treated by plasma was found out through comparative analysis.
Flexibility test and analysis of pure bamboo pulp yarns and blended yarns
CHU Yong-mei;WANG Qi;WANG Guo-he
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 68-70.
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986
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In recent years,bamboo pulp fiber textile products,made with bamboo as raw material,have drawn universal attentions for their unique nature.In order to make a further understanding of the physical properties of the bamboo pulp fiber,the flexibility of pure bamboo pulp yarns with different counts and bamboo pulp/ cotton,bamboo pulp/wool blended yarns with different blending ratios are tested,and a comparative study is conducted.It will have some leading meaning to the production practice.
Soybean protein /viscose polyblend fiber and its properties
JIANG Yan;SUI Shu-ying;JIANG Li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 71-73.
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863
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The good caustic solubility of both the soybean protein and the cellulose sulfonate makes it is possible to develop a new protein modified cellulose fiber by polyblending.And the polyblend structure and performances of this new fiber are discussed.It shows that the soybean protein /viscose polyblend fiber is a kind of protein modified viscose fiber,which possesses the advantages of both the protein fiber and the cellulose,especially the better wettability and the natural style.
Study on the migration of phthalates environmental hormones from the textile to acidic sweat
NIU Zeng-yuan;FANG Li-ping;YANG Gui-peng;XUE Qiu-hong;WANG Jing-tang;SUN Zhong-song
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 74-77.
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1116
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A method to determine the rate of phthalates migrating from the textile to human acidic sweat was studied.Trace amounts of phthalates in acidic sweat were determined by solid-phase extraction.The parameters affecting the extraction efficiency,such as extraction time,extraction temperature,vibrating frequency were discussed.It was found that the extracted amounts were arranged in the following order:(DEP(>>)DBP>DNOP.) And the extracted amounts of DEP,DBP,DNOP increased as the time prolonged and temperature raised.Vibrating frequency showed less impact on the extracted amounts than time and temperature,although they increased as the vibrating frequency increased.
Development of anti-bacterial spun-bonded polypropylene(PP) fabric treated with nanometer silver anti-bacterial agent
LIU Ya;CHENG Bo-wen;WEI Yuan-hui
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 78-80.
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1157
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The production process of the spun-bonded PP fabric treated with nanometer silver antibacterial agent was described.The antibacterial,fastness to washing,mechanical and photo-aging properties of the treated fabric were tested,and the results were compared with those of the conventional spun-bonded PP fabric.It indicated that nanometer silver antibacterial agent is dispersed evenly in the PP macromolecule,and the treated fabric possesses good antibacterial effect with little influence on the shade and mechanical properties.
Relationship between high temperature scouring time and degumming quality of hemp fiber
ZHANG Jin-qiu;ZHANG Hua;HAO Xin-min;JIANG Feng-qin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 81-83.
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1657
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The hemp fiber has good properties such as non-itching feeling,hygroscopic and air permeable,antistatic,and shielding ultraviolet radiation.However,its processing still encounters a lot of problems,and the traditional chemical degumming of it is not satisfactory.The effect of high temperature scouring time on the degumming quality of the hemp fiber was analyzed by scanning electron microscopy and strength testing.The result shows that the optimal high temperature scouring time for effective degumming of hemp fiber is about 3 hours.
应用技术
Superfine soybean protein mid-fiber and the style of its blended fabric
ZHU Zheng-feng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 84-86.
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1027
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Based on experimental studies on the mechanical,electric,hydroscopic,and thermal properties of the superfine soybean protein mid-fiber,MATLAB software was applied to plot the curve with the related experiment data and investigate the spinning and weaving processes of the blended fabric of superfine soybean protein mid-fiber and superfine cotton type polyester fiber.The light reflection and absorption properties in the visible spectrum of the bleached fabric was researched and the characteristics affecting the fabric′s style such as stretching,bending,wrinkling,hydroscopicity and air permeability under low load were also studied.The present work has given a reference for the improvement of the soybean protein fiber and its product development.
Discharge printing of the real silk fabric with vat dyes
ZHOU Qiu-bao;ZHENG Jin-huan;SHAO Jian-zhong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 87-91.
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1206
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Discharge printing of the real silk fabric was performed with vat dye paste for printing the patterns and vinyl-sulfone reactive dye for the ground. The effect of vat dyes,reducing agents and alkali dosage on printing was analyzed.The color fastness and the strength of the printed silk fabric were tested with the purpose of investigating the possibility of this application.The result indicates that the application of vat dye paste to the discharge printing of real silk fabrics can obtain brilliant shade and good color fastness,but lower the strength of the fabrics.
Development and application of anophelifuge and health-care finishing agents on fabric
LU Bi_tai;ZHU Yi
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 92-94.
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961
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The finishing agent containing anophelifuge and health-care elements was prepared with the reactive β-cyclodextrin derivatives and the permethrins drug through inclusion polymerization.It was applied onto the cotton fabric by special finishing process using the common dyeing and finishing equipment so as to impart anti-mosquito and health-care function to the fabric.The finishing effect of the fabric was detected by Ketar capacity device for the nitrogen contents of the fabric before and after treatment.Further,the infrared spectra was used to confirm it.The results show that the treated fabric has good anti-mosquito effect.
Information technology of printing and dyeing enterprises
LI Ren-wang;ZHU Ze-fei;ZHANG Si-rong;ZHOU Yan-jiang;ZOU Ting-ting
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 95-97.
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876
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Since the information technology(IT) of the printing and dyeing enterprises is relatively backward,the main aspects are put forward,i.e.,long-range customization and mutual design of product,monitoring the production process,and remote product delivery tracking based on foundation platform consisting of Internet/Intranet,product database,color knowledge base,printing and dyeing knowledge base and production technique base.Several key technologies,i.e.,logo,basic base,platform,Internet consultation and process control are elucidated.The importance of IT to the printing and dyeing enterprises is briefed.
Study on consumer′s perceptual demand for the image of T-shirt
JIANG Ying;LIU Guo-lian
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 98-100.
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1071
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Through factor analysis,the main perceptual factors of the T-shirt were extracted,which represented its outward appearance and color.Consumers were classified into four groups according to their different perceptual demands for the T-shirt.How these four groups differ in the perceptual demand in respect to outward appearance and color was analyzed with the theory on the perceptual knowledge and statistics software package SPSS.The findings have provided a basis for the garment industry to develop and design the T-shirts which will cater for customers with different perceptual demands.
Methods and integrated platform of apparel development & design for mass customization
YANG Qing-hai;XU Yuan-yuan;ZHOU Chao-yang;QI Guo-ning
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 101-104.
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1002
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Development & design are the key stages of mass customization for apparel.The process of apparel development & design for mass customization can be reengineered into two phases,i.e.,innovative development and agile design.Fashions base,parts base and patterns base are built up after the development process and support the design process.The DFMC methods for apparel are proposed,which consist of the development of modularized product,apparel modeling,fashion customization,pattern variant design and cutting scheme design.The general framework of integrated platform of apparel design for mass customization is given.An integrated platform of DFMC for apparel is quoted in this research as an example.
Development of evaluation system for clothing CAD technology
LI Xu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 105-109.
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865
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This paper is mainly for standardization of clothing CAD technology.The basic functions and technical indexes of the 2-D and 3-D CAD systems are summarized,and the evaluation system is established as theoretical support for standardization and evaluation of clothing CAD technology.
综合述评
Expert system of color matching based on dyeing recipes
YIN Xiu-lian;CHENG Xian-yi;PAN Ling-han
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 110-112.
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For determining all factors of a recipe,this paper defines the scope of the color matching system in a more complete sense than the present color matching software does,analyzes the functional components,and adopts the expert system as the essential technology so that the experts' knowledge can be fully exploited in selecting dyes.Complex factors such as the behavior of dyes and shade pitching are processed and automatically grouped and stored in the database before color matching,in an attempt to simplify the subsequent work of dyes selection.It is considered that the rule for adjusting dyes dosage should be established according to the experiences acquired from routine production.
Analysis and application of anti-counterfeiting technology for clothing
KONG Fan-dong;ZHANG Xin;WU Yu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 113-116.
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Garments with fake brand labels are numerous on the domestic market at present.In order to safeguard their brands and interests,a lot of garment manufacturers have launched their anti-counterfeiting marks on the labels,packages,and trade marks.However,few manufacturers apply the anti-counterfeit technology to the garment′s elements such as print patterns,sewing threads,and buttons,coupled with the radio frequency identification technology to realize automatic discerning for facilitating garment production,delivery,selling and after-sale service.Various anti-counterfeiting technology are compared,and their possible application to the garment has been analyzed from the viewpoint of anti-counterfeit technology,identification and decoration.Apart from realization of anti-counterfeiting of the garment and easy identification,efforts are also made to increase the visual expression of the garment,make it more sellable,and promote its brand value and production.
Supply chain management for apparel mass customization
WANG Zhi-hong;QI Guo-ning;GU Xin-jian;PAN Xu-wei
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(2): 117-120.
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For realization of apparel mass customization,it has to span multiple enterprises in the supple chain.This paper makes a research on the supply chain management for apparel mass customization which analyzes the features of the supple chain management for apparel mass customization,and compares the differences between the supply chain for apparel mass production and the supply chain for apparel mass customization in terms of driving mode,dependence on IT,etc.Thus,the apparel supply chain models for the two different production modes are suggested.The information system and advanced management method of the supply chain management for apparel mass customization are discussed.
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