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Table of Content

    15 July 2012, Volume 33 Issue 7
    • Preparation and antibacterial activity of TCC/PLA micro-fibers
      GU Yi-Shi, XIE Ling-Ling, SHAO Cai-Ying, GAO Wei-Dong, HUANG Dan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1190 )   PDF (1346KB) ( 352 )   Save
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      Poly(L-lactic acid) micro-fibers which have antibacterial activity were prepared via electro-spinning by adding antibacterial agent Triclocarban (TCC). The effect of solvent, mass concentration of TCC on the structure and morphology of electrospun TCC/PLA micro-fibers were investigated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM).The effect of mass concentration of antibacterial (TCC) on antibacterial property was investigated. The results revealed that, when the solvent of spinning were dichloromethane and polyethylene glycol (400), the dissolvability of TCC and the effect of electrospun TCC/PLA were better and the solvent ratio was CH2Cl2:PEG(400)=9:1(V:V). As the mass concentration of TCC increased from 0.1% to 0.6%, the structure of fibers mainly remained unchange and the diameter of fibers increased slightly. When Triclocarban was 0.5%, the inhibiting efficiency of the composite micro-fiber was 98.6% and 94.2% respectively against Staphylococcus aurous and Escherichia coli.
      Analysis of major composition in ethanol extractive from natural green cotton based on GC-MS
      LI Hai-Yang, TANG Zhi-Rong, LI Wei-Fang, ZHOU Wen-Long
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  6-9. 
      Abstract ( 972 )   PDF (804KB) ( 557 )   Save
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      To study the subsidiary composition of natural green cotton, the pigment was extracted with ethanol. Then the extractive was analyzed with GC-MS and compared with white cotton. The volatile substances in the extractive of natural green cotton and white cotton were found to be nearly the same and the main volatile substance is 2-Methyl allylamine, 2-Cyclohexen-1-ol,2-methyl-5-(1-methylethenyl)-,1-propanoate, Diaminomaleonitrile, 2-(Acryloyloxy)ethyl Methacrylate and 2,4-Di-tert-butylphenol with 2-Cyclohexen-1-ol,2-methyl-5-(1-methylethenyl)-,1-propanoate to be the most one. Meanwhile, a substance called Methacrylic acid isobutyl ester is found to be in natural green cotton, which does not exist in white cotton. The results showed that natural green cotton has really different constituents with white cotton. The effect of those constituents on the color of natural green cotton needs further study.
      Separation of pigments extracted from natural brown cotton fiber by liquid chromatography
      MA Ming-Bo, LI Rong-Xia, TANG Zhi-Rong, WU Shi-Hua, ZHOU Wen-Long
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  10-14. 
      Abstract ( 940 )   PDF (1053KB) ( 318 )   Save
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      The polyamide column chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography(HPLC) and preparative Liquid chromatography were used to separate pigments extracted from natural brown cotton fiber. The results showed that the pigment extract could be successfully separated and concentrated by polyamide column chromatography, the pigments consists of two parts for their different colors and HPLC chromatograms of elution segments. Two colored compositions and one colorless were isolated from water elution segment by preparative C18-Reversed-phase chromatography, but the other segment can not be isolated by this chromatography column, according to the retention action on chromatography columns, this part of pigment may belong to a series of polyphenol compounds with closely similar structure.
      Fineness testing of ramie fiber with WIRA airflow meter
      ZHAO Jing-Ran, YU Chong-Wen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  15-18. 
      Abstract ( 1211 )   PDF (742KB) ( 311 )   Save
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      Abstract Fineness is an important index of ramie fiber when it is used in textile. The traditional test method of ramie fiber fineness is the cut – middles method. This method needs a small quantity of ramie sample and the results greatly influenced by subjective factors. The feasibility of testing ramie fiber fineness by using WIRA airflow meter is discussed in this paper. The sample weight and the way to be placed are determined in the experimental. Compared with the cut-middles method, the regression equation between flow readings and metric counts is established and the feasibility of testing ramie fiber fineness by using WIRA airflow meter is explained through statistics test.
      Drying process of polylactic acid chip for spinning filaments
      LIU Shu-Qiang, DAI Jin-Ming, JIA Hu-Sheng, LIU Xu-Guang, XU Bing-She
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  19-23. 
      Abstract ( 1143 )   PDF (1026KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      In order to research the drying process of polylactic acid (PLA) chip, the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was applied to measure the glass transition temperature (Tg), the melting point (Tm) and the amorphous structure of polylactic acid chip. The effects of drying time and drying temperature on properties of chip were researched. Addition, the stage drying was analyzed. Results show that longer drying time and higher drying temperature, lead to lower moisture content, but more hardened chips and lower viscosity average molecular weight. And results also show that in initial stage, relatively low temperature was applied to remove mostly water of PLA chip, then higher temperature was used to remove small amount of associated water in chip. Finally, the result indicates the optimum three-stage drying process as follows: 80℃, 4h; 100℃, 4h; 110℃, 20h, which led to low moisture content, and avoid much hardened chips and decrease of viscosity average molecular weight.
      Process optimization of ultrasonic washing of feather fibers based on response surface method
      ZHAO Yu-Ping, ZHANG Juan, GUO Ya-Lin, ZHAO Ming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  24-30. 
      Abstract ( 825 )   PDF (1614KB) ( 330 )   Save
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      In this study, optimum condition of ultrasonic wave technology of washing feather fibers is optimized by response surface test. On the basis of single factor test, the dependent variable (mesophilic aerobic bacterial content of feather fibers) and independent variables (washing time, washing temperature, liquor ratio and the dosage of acid protease) were optimized. Each variable and its interaction effects on the mesophilic aerobic bacterial content were analyzed through Box-Benhnken center composite design and response surface methodology, and the mathematical regression equation prediction model was established. The optimum washing conditions as follows: the hydrogen peroxide solution 5mL/L, pH value 4.0~6.0, the washing time 20min, the washing temperature 60℃, liquor ratio 1:40 and the dosage of acid protease 3%(owf).Under these conditions, the content of mesophilic aerobic bacteria of washed feather fibers is 3.73×103cfu/g. By means of multiple regression method, the results show that regression model was highly significant between washing time, washing temperature, the dosage of acid protease, liquor ratio and the content of mesophilic aerobic bacteria. The experiment values were in general agreement with the predicted values and the experiment data under various conditions have validated the theoretical values. Therefore, it is feasible that response surface methodology is adapted to the washing process of feather fibers.
      Recovery of waste polyester textiles via solvent method
      SHI Na, WU Zhi-Yun, WANG Shao-Peng, GAN Sheng-Hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  31-36. 
      Abstract ( 1928 )   PDF (1262KB) ( 1124 )   Save
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      Polyester (PET) and cotton fiber in polyester fabric and polyester/cotton fabric were separated and recycled by use of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). The results show that, polyester fabric can be dissolved easily and recycled in DMSO. It just needed 12min especially when the temperature is during 185~194℃. Meanwhile, because polyester can be dissolved but cotton fiber insoluble in some time, DMSO can be used for separating and recycling PET and cotton fiber form Polyester/cotton fabric. Polyester /cotton fabrics put into the DMSO reagent for 60min. its temperature is 185~194℃.Because it can not be soluble in DMSO, the cotton fibers were recycled by filtering out from the solution with the conditions of temperature about 185~194℃. Moreover, polyester was recycled from the solution. Because of stable performance, the recycled cotton fibers can be used in areas. Intrinsic viscosity of PET increased with the high recycling of DMSO.
      Design and application of three models of color figured paterns for woven cotton brocade
      LUO Bing-Jin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  37-42. 
      Abstract ( 862 )   PDF (2053KB) ( 288 )   Save
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      In order to enable cotton woven photograph to have the artistic style of traditional Gobelin wall hanging, simplify the process of fabric weave figure designing and artistic conception editing in developing cotton woven photograph, ,according to relationship between color and fabric structure on silk woven photograph from writern literature, analyzing the style feature of the traditional French Gobelin hanging, based on mixed color space principle and digital technology, various colors of patterns in cotton woven photograph are summed up by the decomposition,so the appropriate color combinations in cotton woven photograph are obtained by disposition which one of a variety of a few colors of warp -weft yarn are combined with limited appropriate fabric weaves.At last three unique models of colour and fabric weave figure in designing cotton woven photograph are formed by a lot of RGB tests and production practices.The three kinds of models were named by one color warp-six color weft, two color warp-six color weft, six color warp- three color weft. In this way, designers can use a small amount of cotton colored yarn and basic fabric weaves to obtain rich color layering transition and strong color layering feel in designing cotton woven photograph through the three kinds of models. These types of models have applicability for a variety of styles of cotton woven photograph.
      Evaluation method for dimensional stability of washed fabric based on computer vision
      WANG Lei, LIU Jian-Li, GAO Wei-Dong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  43-47. 
      Abstract ( 1475 )   PDF (1121KB) ( 350 )   Save
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      According to the existing manual methods to measure dimensional changes of fabric after laundering has an obvious error and low accuracy, especially the case with irregular shape, this paper proposes a method based on machine vision to calculate the fabric area change and then evaluate dimension stability of fabric after being washed. Six types of pure wool fabrics are chosen as experimental materials, which will be washed under different washing, rinse, spin time procedures before dry and image capture by machine vision system. The dimensional stability will be evaluated by taking the average dimensional change ratio not only in both warp and weft direction, but also in area before and after laundering, which will be calculated from the fabric images. Compared with the manual measurement, the computer vision method proposed in this paper can represent the dimensional change more globally and accurately, which provides a test basis for fabric design and washing program optimization.
      Fabric multi-directional wrinkle resistance testing based on image processing
      LIU Cheng-Xia, XU Jing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  48-52. 
      Abstract ( 1043 )   PDF (1184KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      The now commonly used testing method can test wrinkle resistance of only one direction, which differs greatly from the wrinkles of our clothes. Aiming at this, a new fabric multi-directional wrinkle resistance testing device was designed which can simulate the wrinkles on the knee and elbow. Its testing process was also given, as well as the two evaluation index, ratio of instant and slow wrinkle resistance area. The two index was compared with the instant and slow wrinkle recovery angle of 20 fabrics. The following conclusions could be made: ratio of instant and slow wrinkle resistance area had high correlation with the instant and slow wrinkle recovery angle. As the shape of wrinkles in the new testing method is similar with the wrinkles in our wearing clothes, the new method can reflect the comprehensive wrinkle resistance of fabrics better.
      Hand feeling comparison between PTT and nylon fabrics under cold environmental condition
      LI Rong-Quan, WANG Fu-Mei, ZHANG Li-Zhi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  53-57. 
      Abstract ( 1077 )   PDF (1253KB) ( 351 )   Save
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      Abstract In order to explore the ideal apparel fabrics for down jackets and cold resistance clothes that can be used in extremely cold environment and the changes of hand with the temperature decreased. The bending and shearing performances of two types of fabrics are studied by the in-house made test device at 20℃,-5℃,-15℃,-25℃respectively. The structure parameters of the PTT fabric and Nylon fabric are similar. The results show that the hand of the two types of fabrics become more stiff with the temperature decreased. However, Nylon fabric becomes much stiffer than PTT fabric at the same temperature.
      Stab-resistant properties of multi-axial warp knitted fabrics
      KONG Xiang-Yong, MIAO Xu-Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  58-63. 
      Abstract ( 1080 )   PDF (1641KB) ( 400 )   Save
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      In order to study the stab-resistant properties of multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics, quasic-static stab tests of multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics in different specifications were conducted. The experimental results were analyzed to research the influence made by the structural parameters of multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics on the stab resistance, and the stab-resistant characteristics of the multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics. Besides, cross section morphologies of the fibers around the fracture rent of the multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics were observed via SEM while puncturing, to analyze the mechanism of energy absorption of multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics during the stab-resistant process. The results showed that the volume mass of the multi-axial warp-knitted fabric was positively related to the maximum penetration force, the maximum penetration force increased as the volume mass increased. Also the increase of the surface density of the multi-axial warp-knitted fabrics was propitious to enhance the stab resistance of the fabrics. The four-axial warp-knitted fabrics made of finer yarns would have the best stab resistance, which could better absorb the penetration energy and resist the shearing of blades.
      Microencapsulation of vitamin E with polyurethane shell
      YAO Guo-Ping, ZHENG Jin-Huan, CHEN Hui-Fen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  64-68. 
      Abstract ( 1353 )   PDF (1342KB) ( 433 )   Save
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      Vitamin E (VE) core polyurethane microcapsules were successfully prepared via interfacial polymerization of polyurethane with toluene diisocyanate (TDI) as the isocyanate, polyethylene glycol as the polyol. The factors affecting microencapsulation effectiveness of VE were studied, such as chain-extending reaction temperature, molecular weight of PEG, and mass ratio of core to shell. Based on the present research, the microcapsules have a small narrow particle size distribution and a high yield and appropriate effective load, which are prepared with PEG400 as the polyol at 60℃and the mass ratio of 1/1.25. SEM and dynamic particle size analysis showed that VE microcapsules have smooth surfaces and spherical appearances, the mean particle size of 500~600 nm and distribution of 260~2000 nm.
      Preparation of functionalized nanocapsule and nanocolorants via miniemulsion technology
      ZHAO Xiao, SHA Ying, AN Ni, LIANG Lie-Feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  69-74. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (2107KB) ( 334 )   Save
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      In this study, carboxyl-functionalized polystyrene nanocapsules were synthesized using miniemulsion copolymerization. Both hexadecane (HD) and methyl isobutyl ketone (MIBK) were used as costabilizer for miniemulsion process. Effects of kinds and amount of the costabilizer on the morphology of end products were studied. It was found that substantial polymer particles has void core structure were formed and the diameter of particles was about 100nm when the weight ratio of monomer to costabilizer of 1:1. Oil-soluble dyes could be encapsulated into nanocapsules prepared using MIBK as costabilizer and UV irradiation experiments tests indicated that the obtained Polymer/dye latexes exhibited excellent photostability. However, dye molecules could not be encapsulated successfully when HD was employed as costablizer.
      Comparative study of proliferation inhibiting effect of two kinds of surfactants on cells
      JIANG Jin-Ping, LIAO Qing, WANG Xiao-Ning, GONG Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  75-79. 
      Abstract ( 1060 )   PDF (1097KB) ( 441 )   Save
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      MTT assays is adopted to identify of inhibiting effect of two kinds of N,N-dialkyl urea compounds and four kinds of alkyphenol ethoxylates surfactants on HeLa cells and CHO cells ,and to explore two types of material cytotoxicity. The results indicated that the reproduction restraining effect of N,N-dialkyl urea and alkyphenol ethoxylates on HeLa cells and CHO cells gradually increased with concentration increased. N,N-diethyl urea and N,N-dipropyl urea could inhibit proliferation of HeLa cells and CHO cells at the concentration of 10mg/ml, and the inhibition rate were more than 80%. Alkyphenol ethoxylates OP-7、OP-9、NP-10 and NP-25 could inhibit proliferation of HeLa cells and CHO cells at the concentration of 0.1mg/ml、0.1mg/ml、0.1mg/ml and 0.5mg/ml, and the inhibition rate were more than 80%. Therefore, when the six substances reach a certain concentration, they inhibits the growth of HeLa cells and CHO cells significantly., and shows a dose-dependent manner. N,N-dialkyl urea shows less toxicity than alkyphenol ethoxylates.
      Design method of imitating tie-dye pattern based on Mandelbrot set
      DOU Xiao-Jing, ZHANG Yu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  80-85. 
      Abstract ( 1069 )   PDF (1921KB) ( 391 )   Save
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      This article put forward a tie-dye design method based on the Mandelbrot set graph ,which adjust the mathematical model of Mandelbrot set using parameter transformation and function transform technique ,Through the comprehensive use of picture capturing window for exaggerating graphics gradually and the method of color mode adjustment , generated a different style of changed Mandelbrot set graphics; On this basis, extracted design materials from the Mandelbrot set graphics and got the primary imitating tie-dye visual effect pattern cloth through the Photoshop software. And then, used in the specific pattern design practice by conducting a secondary design on silk scarves, so as to conduct a preliminary try of effective methods on the application of the Mandelbrot set graphics in pattern design.
      Analysis of ice crack characteristic and aesthetic value on wax printed patterns
      TANG Ying, FANG Kuan-Jun, SHEN Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  86-90. 
      Abstract ( 851 )   PDF (1655KB) ( 160 )   Save
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      The main characteristic of wax-printed fabric is crack pattern. In order to represent the realistic crack effect in pattern design of modern wax-printing and imitating wax-printing, this article discussed the characteristics, coloration, and the aesthetic value of cracks in handmade wax-printing. An analysis is made about the factors to impact of crack generation. The thickness and curvature of crack vary according to the production condition. In the most cases, the intersection area will be bolded. The form of wax cracking determines crack shape, such as nature cracked, parallel or square. Besides, the sharp of crack is related to the pattern and the size of waxed area. Moreover, the cracking extent and sequence could realize different dyeing and gradation of colors. Also there are blur-dyeing parts produced by wax not firmly stick to the fabric. In addition, wax-printing cracks have the aesthetic value of defective, disorder and texture beauty.
      Process of dye-free coloration of tussah silk based on hydroxybenzaldehyde
      LIU Song-Qi, CUI Yong-Zhu, SUI Yan-Ling, WANG Xiao, WEI Ju
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  91-94. 
      Abstract ( 907 )   PDF (1107KB) ( 491 )   Save
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      In this article, tussah silk fabric was treated with p-hydroxybenzaldehyde and nitric acid in order to achieve the purpose of dye-free coloration. Through orthogonal experiments and single factor analysis, the optimum process of dye-free coloration were, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde 5%(o.w.f.), nitric acid 2.5%, temperature 90℃, time 60min and bath ratio 1:30. Meanwhile, color fastness test and breaking strength test were taken, the results showed that, the color of tussah silk fabric after dye-free coloration was bright, the levelness was good, the surface of the fiber was almost no damage, both rubbing fastness and washing fastness were reached 4 grade or above and no significant change were shown in breaking strength.
      Dyeing behavior of fluorescent dye DTAF on cotton fabrics
      TANG Fei-Fei, GE Feng-Yan, CAI Zai-Sheng, YANG Chun, LI Jin-Cai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  95-99. 
      Abstract ( 2005 )   PDF (1109KB) ( 700 )   Save
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      The functional fluorescent dye 5(6)-(4,6-Dichlorotriazinyl)aminoFluorescein was used for dyeing cotton fabrics. The effect of dye concentration and fixing temperature on the K/S value of dyed fabrics was studied. The changing of K/S value, the moving of reflectance curve and fluorescence emission spectra as the change of dyeing concentration were investigated, and the relationship among the max reflectance, fluorescent intensity and K/S value was discussed. The results indicated that as the dye concentration increased, the red-shifting of reflectance and fluorescence emission spectra of dyed fabric was found. As the K/S value keeps increasing, the maximum emission wavelength and the fluorescence intensity of dyed fabric increases first then starts to drop. When the dye concentration was 0.1% ( o.w.f ), the maximum reflectivity of dyed fabric can reach 130%.DTAF can greatly improve the anti-ultraviolet performance of cotton fabrics. When the dyeing concentration is equal to or greater than 1% (o.w.f), the UPF value of dyed fabric can reach 50 +.
      Discussion on crotch height of young women based on 3-D body measurement
      ZHANG Xiu, WANG Hong-Fu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  100-103. 
      Abstract ( 1520 )   PDF (869KB) ( 617 )   Save
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      Fork bottom high relates to the proportion coordination of lower-body’s length and pants styles are comfortable or not, etc. In this paper, the research object are young female, using non-contact 3D body scanner to measure a large number of data, then using excel and SPSS software to analysis the data. The summary is that the difference between fork bottom high and the high of waist tend to 26.64cm, the ratio between fork bottom high and height tends to 0.44. On the other hand , dividing the target into 4 classes by clustering analysis ,and when the height changes by 4.9cm for each class,the fork bottom high changes by about 3cm.
      Shaping characteristics and design method of garment with asymmetercal draping plait
      ZHAO Meng-Chao, XU Xu-Bing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  104-108. 
      Abstract ( 1485 )   PDF (1587KB) ( 665 )   Save
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      Abstract: Based on the concept of asymmetrical draping shape, the article discusses and summarizes the characteristics and design method of asymmetrical draping shape concerning the pattern, classification, style and design,and the article analyzes the formal beauty of the categories of clothing design,in order to form a more complete and system design theory.The results indicate that the design method of asymmetrical draping shape is closely related to clothing characteristics and its design style. In the process of design, some structure craft means should be added to form asymmetrical draping design with unique aesthetic effect. It explores and analyzes the design features of asymmetrical draping shape through a large amount of case study with significant theoretical and practical value for reference and research for costume design of this kind.
      Leather clothing pattern design combining traditional and modern cultural elements
      WANG Li-Xin, FAN Xue-Rong, SUN Xiao-Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  109-113. 
      Abstract ( 1007 )   PDF (1438KB) ( 685 )   Save
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      Today,economic and cultural are integrated in the world, Chinese social ideology, social psychology and consumer characteristics have taken place a great changes, non-mainstream culture has imposed more and more impact on social consciousness, traditional culture and the new pop culture would grow together. These new changes are more performance-based on the pattern design of clothing. Awareness of environmental protection, screen culture and internet culture have had a tremendous impact to leather clothing design. From the start to study non-mainstream culture in contemporary China, centre on the leather clothing pattern design ,to research the relationship between non-mainstream culture and fashion, and then to analyze influence of the socio-cultural thoughts to product cognition, aesthetic feeling and consuming behavior.
      Research on embroidery patterns of Hakka’s traditional costumes
      LIU Yun-Juan, CHEN Dong-Sheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  114-117. 
      Abstract ( 3729 )   PDF (1006KB) ( 1048 )   Save
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      This research starting with classification, skills , forms and color for the embroidery patterns of traditional costumes, the embroidery patterns of Hakka’s costumes have seen such as: wildlife, geometry, personage, characters and utensils ; The skills of embroidery are distributed into 27 kinds of stitches of 7 series; Main compositions of embroidery patterns include“borderline”, “symmetric”and “symmetry”; There is sharp match colors in patterns, and worldliness and sophistication in aesthetic standards. Based on the above conclusions, the patterns of Hakka traditional costumes present regional features on composition, content, skills ,color and aligns with the aesthetic of Han nationality in Central Plains.
      Application of detailed design in garment modeling
      DAI Lu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  118-122. 
      Abstract ( 1203 )   PDF (1618KB) ( 706 )   Save
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      In the garment modeling, detail design is essential for a final garment masterpiece. Based on modern garment modeling engineering mechanism, this paper examines the application of detail modeling in showcase structure, craftsmanship and material of garment making, analyzes the often used measures, summarizes the general rules and basic techniques; emphasize the functions of detail design and so on. Simple as it may looks, detail design can enrich the contents and designing space of garment modeling, and bring us an entirely new visual enjoyment of anima, creativity and aesthetic feeling. This study offers valuable learnings for the profound understanding of the importance of detailed design, and discusses its various applications in enriching the elements of garment design.
      Flow field analysis of auxiliary nozzle of an air-jet loom based on CFD
      TAN Bao-Hui, FENG Zhi-Hua, LIU Ding-Ding, TANG Yin-Ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  123-128. 
      Abstract ( 1057 )   PDF (1336KB) ( 584 )   Save
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      In this paper,to analyze the characters of the flow field of the auxiliary nozzle,an analysis software Fluent based on Computational Fluid Dynamics(CFD) is used to investigate the three-dimensional flow field of an auxiliary nozzle of an air-jet loom. The flow velocity change along with the center line and the pressure change under 0.28MPa source supply pressure are systematically analyzed. Similarly,a detailed flow velocity distribution with different source supply pressures is also calculated. Results showed that the flow velocity at the nozzle exit is up to 404m/s when the supply pressure is 0.28MPa and there is a negative pressure region near the nozzle exit. Furthermore,numerical date indicate that the flow velocity at the nozzle exit will increase about 50m/s for each 0.1MPa increment of supply pressure. Finally,the comparison between the present numerical results and other investigators’ experimental results has been made and shows that the numerical results are in good agreement with the experimental ones.
      Research and development of test system for geotextile expansion rupture performance
      LI Wei-Feng, SUN Qi-Xiao, LI Xiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  129-133. 
      Abstract ( 917 )   PDF (957KB) ( 661 )   Save
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      Abstract In order to reduce the test error when geotextile expansion rupture caused by foil deformation, a testing program of expansion rupture performance of geotextile based on foil correction was proposed. The graphs of system testing which were software flow chart of the total system and hardware block diagram were shown in this paper. The system uses motion control card to control the motor drive section, the signal acquired by the sensor was sent to data acquisition card, then, was sent into the computer by processing, the data obtained was processed by digital filter, data and graphs was displayed real-time during the testing process. Test data were given by this paper, and the results were analyzed, the results demonstrate the system reduce test error effectively when geotextile expansion rupture, it possesses practical significance.
      Design of frequency energy-saving control system of high temperature and high pressure dyeing machine
      JIANG Lei, HAN Cheng-Jiang, XIE Shui-Ying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  134-138. 
      Abstract ( 871 )   PDF (1143KB) ( 581 )   Save
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      In order to improve business productivity, improve the high temperature and high pressure dyeing machine control system for wasting water and power resources, this paper transforms the original manual control mode, uses a combination of PLC and inverter control to optimize the energy-saving efficiency of the original system design. The system solves the manual / automatic conversion, improves the dynamic response and control accuracy, and simplifies process operation through the PLC control transformation; By frequency transformation, the pump speed can be adjusted automatically according to machine cylinder temperature, then cloth can move around. The experimental data proved that this system achieved the purpose of saving energy and improving production efficiency.
      Analysis of factors affecting clothing brand image and determination of their weights
      HU Jue-Liang, LI Cheng, HAN Shu-Guang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  139-143. 
      Abstract ( 998 )   PDF (1050KB) ( 564 )   Save
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      With the development of economy and the rapid rising of clothing brand, consciousness of clothing brand is becoming more and more intense to consumers. Meanwhile the competition between the brands was increasingly fierce. In order to win the recognition of consumers, the clothing brands have to set up good brand image. On the basis of comprehensive review about the brand image's conception, connotation and affecting factors, and combined with market survey on consumers, it has developed an evaluation index system of clothing brand image with two layers. The weight distribution of each element is ascertained by adopting the methods of the fuzzy mathematics. Accordingly, it makes clothing brand image influence factors system to be more objective, and which provides new ideas for the clothing enterprise to create its own brand image. The results indicate that service factor has become the most important aspect consumer caring about, followed by production factor, store factor, enterprise factor and publicity factor. Even in the same grade clothing brands, production factor is no longer the most key factor, but the service.
      Study of body point cloud simplification based on non-contacted measurement
      LI Xiao-Jiu, JING Xiao-Ning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  144-148. 
      Abstract ( 1005 )   PDF (1084KB) ( 533 )   Save
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      A portable three dimension (3D) body measurement system was developed. By measuring the body using the system, the body point clouds are reconstructed. Base on the characteristic of point cloud, the paper proposed a method of fan-shaped grids to simplify the body point cloud. The method can be operated with high speed and the simplifying rate can be controlled easily. By this method, the simplified point cloud retained the details in the concave to prevent the contour from distorting. The simplified point cloud can be sorted quickly by fan-shaped angles and grids. The result optimized the following operations of denoising and hole-repairing.
      Properties and development trends of the different kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics
      CHEN Li-Hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(7):  149-156. 
      Abstract ( 931 )   PDF (2303KB) ( 804 )   Save
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      In this paper,the properties and development trends of the different kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics were analyzed.First the waterproof and moisture permeable principles by porousness and hydrophilic groups were expatiated,and the waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics of different kinds of process and film conformation and properties were sum up. Then the properties of waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics of different kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable principles and of high polymer and of process were analyzed and discussed. It is showed that the development trends of waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics to the environmental protection and intelligence and multifunction. The results are for reference to choice and application of waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics.