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Table of Content

    15 November 2007, Volume 28 Issue 11
    • 目次
      Preparation and characterization of PA 6Porganical montmorillonite composite nanof ibers
      LI Qi;WEI Qufu;WANG Yingying;WANGDejuan;GAOWeidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 947 )   Save
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      Composite nanofibers of PA 6 and organically modified montmorillonite (O2MMT) , DK25 , were
      prepared by electrospinning. The dispersion and exfoliation of O2MMTwere obtained by two steps : the primary
      exfoliation in DMF and the further exfoliation in PA 6 solution. The size distribution of O2MMT layers was
      measured in a particle size analyzer and the fibrous structures of the composite nanofiber were examined using
      SEM. An AFM in tapping mode was employed to investigate the surface morphology of the electrospun
      nanofibers. The study has revealed that the dosage of O2MMT has impact on the morphology and structure of
      the composite nanofiber.
      Stability of spinning solution of melamine formaldehyde f iber
      YANG Zhiyuan;IANGMengjin;U Kuilin;E Guangdou;I Shouqun;XU jianjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  5-8. 
      Abstract ( 2328 )   Save
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       The key factor of preparing melamine formaldehyde fiber is obtaining stable spinning solution. A
      two step procedure was used to prepare the spinning solution. The first step was to synthesize the lower
      viscosity and water2soluble melamine formaldehyde (MF) resins and the second one was to mix the resins with
      PVA solution. The viscosity′s stability of MF′s solution and the spinning solution of MFPPVA was investigated.
      Results show that resin′s structure at different polymerization phase has an effect on the stability of the spinning
      solution. At the meantime , the mixture status , mixing temperature , ratio of MF to PVA , and storage time ,
      also had an influence on the stability of spinning solution

      Characterization of amorphous orientation of ply(glycolide-co-L-lactide) fiber by sonic velocity
      LI Jian;HUANGQing;LI Xin;YUAN Xiaoyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  9-12. 
      Abstract ( 1155 )   Save
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      The amorphous orientation of poly (glycolide2co2L2lactide) fiber with 90 :10 mole ratio of glycolide
      to L2lactide (PGLA910) was studied by differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , wide angle X2ray diffraction
      (WAXD) and the sonic velocity method. The crystallization in PGLA910 came only from PGA according to the
      DSC and WAXD results of the drawn and annealed fiber. The sonic modulus was computed through
      determining the sonic velocity of PGLA910 fiber with crystallinity from about 5 % to 30 % , and the intrinsic
      transverse modul in the amorphous region and the crystalline region were E0
      t , c = 9135 GPa and E0
      t , am =
      3. 21 GPa respectively obtained based on the two2phase model . The amorphous orientations of 7 drawn PGLA
      fibers had a linear relationship with the thermo2shrinkages and indicated the characterization was reasonable.
      Research on collagenPPVA composite f ibers with glutaraldehyde as cross2linker
      WANG Xuejuan;TANG Yi;WU Weiyu;XU Jianjun;YE Guangdou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  13-16. 
      Abstract ( 2537 )   Save
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      Spinning solution was prepared with collagen and PVA blending by addition of glutaraldehyde as
      cross2linker. CollagenPPVA composite as2formed fiber could be produced via wet spinning. After heat drawing ,
      heat setting , and acetalization , the collagenPPVA composite fiber was obtained. The composite fiber had
      strength 3. 74 cNPdtex , modulus 44. 60 cNPdtex , elongation 31. 30 % and crystallinity 60. 79 %. The value of
      stick point in water was 105 ℃, and the moisture regain was 8. 9 %. According to SEM photographs , cross2
      section of the composite fiber had a few of holes and cracks , these defects diminished with increasing the sold
      content of the spinning solution.
      Properties of downPkapok battings
      LIU Wei;ZHOU Sumeng;HAN Shifeng;WANG Fumei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  17-20. 
      Abstract ( 2127 )   Save
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      On the basis of trial2producing downPkapok battings , the compressive and warmth retention
      properties of these battings are investigated in this paper. It′s showed that the usage of chemical fibers , such
      as fine2denier PET fibers , etc , could effectively improve the compressive resilience of battings. When kapok
      replaced down or down waste in the battings , the compressive resilience of battings would reduce slightly ,
      however , it wasn′t distinct when the content was changed slightly. The usage of down could improve the
      warmth retention of battings , and kapok was less important than down in improving the warmth retention of
      battings , but more useful than other chemical fibers (PP , PET , etc) . Down waste could reduce the warmth
      retention of battings , but not remarkable.
      Glycolysis of recycled polyester f ibers using ethylene glycol ( Ⅰ) :glycolysis technique
      LI Yonggui;LI Zhunzhun;NAI Youbing;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 2958 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the pollution produced by polyester fiber wastes and promote resource recycling ,
      the recycled polyester fiber was depolymerized through glycolysis using excessive ethylene glycol under a
      nitrogen atmosphere in the presence of metal acetate (Zn (AC) 2·2H2O) as a catalyst . Glycolysis product was
      purified. It was found that the conversion rate of glycolysis is mainly influenced by reaction temperature and
      time , and amount of catalyst . The preferable conversion rate (96. 65 %) can be obtained with 0. 2 % catalyst
      (on weight of PET fiber) at 196 ℃for 2 h. The study reveals that the glycolysis of recycled polyester fiber is
      a good method with practicality.
      纺织工程
      Development of the system for testing cotton f iber length
      LI Wenbin;XU Weilin;CUI Weigang;WANG Xin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  25-28. 
      Abstract ( 2345 )   Save
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      In this paper , a novel method was introduced to test the fiber number2length distribution of cotton
      fibers. The sample fibers were combed into a bundle one end flat and the other end uniform and straight along
      the fiber length direction , then , the bundle was cut into fiber particles with specific length by a fiber
      amputator , and the particles from different area of the fibers were distributed on a grading board , after that ,
      the images of the fiber particles on the board were taken and transferred into a computer by a scanner and other
      image analysis equipments. Image analysis arithmetic was used to calculate the number of the particles and
      figure out the fiber number at different fiber length area , then , different values such as maximumfiber length ,
      mean length based on the number of fibers and standard deviation of fiber number2length distribution were
      worked out .
      Thermal wet comfort property of pearl f iber knitted fabric
      LI Dongping;YIN Hongwei;ZHAO Yanxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  29-31. 
      Abstract ( 2326 )   Save
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      Conventional comparative experiments such as air permeability , cold sensation , moisture
      permeability experiment and wicking were performed on eleven kinds of knitted fabric like pure pearl fiber ,
      pearl fiberPcotton , casein protein fiberPwoolPcotton , modal , modalPcotton , viscose , etc. and the thermal wet
      comfort of pearl fiber knitted fabric was investigated. The experimental results reveal that pearl fiber and pearl
      fiberPcotton knitted fabrics have better moisture permeability than viscose knitted fabric , but the instantaneous
      cold sensation differs little
      Research of non2resin winding cylinder preforming retracing cosine curve
      YANGJinchun;CHEN Li;LI Jialu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  32-35. 
      Abstract ( 1884 )   Save
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      To satisfy the requirements of fast producing , low cost manufacture and large thickness preforming
      in the field of non2resin winding cylinder composite , the equation of retracing cosine curve was deduced based
      on the section principle. Combined with the traditional textile technique theory , characteristic parameters′
      calculation formulae of end2section were deduced under the retracing cosine curve model . Finally , on the basis
      of analysis of the retracing cosine curve , in non2resin winding cylinder preforming technique , signification of
      high speed machining under the retracing cosine curve model was illuminated and testified by the way of
      numerical value simulation. As a conclusion , cosine curve should be used as retracing curve under the
      condition of high2speed winding and relatively common cylinder thickness.
      Mechanical model for the stress relaxationof PVC calendered flexible composites
      ZHU Yongyi;LIU Xiaoming;CHEN Nanliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  36-39. 
      Abstract ( 2154 )   Save
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      According to the assumptions of the viscoelasticity materials′mechanical models , the 4 elements
      model and the Eyring model are selected to imitate the stress relaxation property of the PVC calendered flexible
      composites. Based on the relaxation lab test of 3 kinds of samples which are of the same PVC and same textile
      material but with different fabric structures , the parameters of the 2 models are calculated and the relaxation
      curve is fitted by a method called MatLab. The experimental results show that the PVC calendered flexible
      composites follow the non2linear viscoelasticity model and that the structures of the fabrics have little effect on it .
      Mechanical properties and process optimization of biodegradable PLAPj ute multi2layer composites
      HAN Jian;XU Guoping;YUAN Lihua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  40-44. 
      Abstract ( 1822 )   Save
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      Orthogonal test , variance analysis and analytic hierarchy process were used to analyze the
      construction and process parameters of biodegradable PLAPj ute multi2layer composites with a view to
      understanding the effect of process parameters on their mechanical properties. Six main factors such as
      proportion of PLAPj ute fiber , layers of the composite , jute fiber direction , heating temperature , pressure and
      time , were studied. The results showed that heating temperature , jute fiber direction and proportion of PLAP
      jute fiber have notable effect on mechanical prperties. Layers and heating time have effect on some items , and
      pressure has little effect . The optimum process parameters are suggested.
      Finite elemental simulation on tensile process of thermoplastic laminates
      LIU Liyan;HUANG Gu;WANG Rui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  45-47. 
      Abstract ( 2132 )   Save
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      The analysis of composites tensile process conduced to looking into the weak points and conditions
      of each point upon which force is being exerted on the composite products. It could be good theoretical
      reference for assessing and predicting the property of composites. In this article , finite element analysis method
      was used to simulate the tensile process of thermoplastic composites through programming on the computer. The
      tensile problem was simplified in two dimensions due to the small thickness of laminates. The force on each
      node was analyzed and calculated through meshing the model into elements and applying constraints and loads
      on the nodes. The maximal stress point and the contour plots of the model were compared with deformed
      specimen in tensile tests. It is found that there is a good match on damaged areas between the simulated model
      and experimental specimen.
      Treatment of PET nonwoven fabric by gas plasma
      LI Shufang;I Hongjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  48-51. 
      Abstract ( 2089 )   Save
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      The low surface energy of PET fiber makes it inherently hydrophobic. PET nonwoven fabric was
      treated by gas plasma. The effects of treatment time , power and the discharge distance on the hydroscopicity of
      the nonwoven fabric were determined through experiments. The results indicated that this treatment can improve
      the hydroscopicity of PET nonwoven fabric remarkably. As power increases , the moisture content increases to the
      top value then decreases a little , and longer time of treatment also improves the moisture content . The discharge
      distance being about 1 mm can generate uniform plasma which renders the fabric an even treatment .
      Preparation and characterization of cotton nonwovens dipped by sericin
      HUANG Chen;ANGLi′na;AN Xiaojian;U Zhaofang;E Yindi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  52-55. 
      Abstract ( 2182 )   Save
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      The hydroentangled semi2finished cotton nonwoven fabric was impregnated in sericin solution with
      different mass concentration , followed by double2dip2double2nip process , then dried and set , thus obtained a
      degradable cotton nonwoven mulching membrane. It was found through gray correlation analysis that the factors
      influencing the strength of the mulching membrane fell into the following order : moisture regain > weighting
      percentage > sericin mass concentration. The product was characterized by using scanning electron microscope
      (SEM) , Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy ( FTIR) and degrade efficiency. The preliminary results
      indicated that the best physical property of the fabric is obtained when impregnated in 1 % mass concentration
      sericin solution , whose lengthwise and crosswise breaking strength are 33 N and 44 N respectively , and the
      moisture regain , 1018 %.
      染整与化学品
      Synthesis and application of isooctanol polyethenoxy ether phosphate
      ZHOU Xiangdong;NG Haitao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  56-59. 
      Abstract ( 2444 )   Save
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      The effects of feeding way of phosphorus pentoxide , ratio of C8H17 ( EO) 4OH to P2O5 , reaction
      temperature and time on the synthesized isooctanol polyethenoxy ether phosphate were investigated. Its optimum
      synthesis technology conditions were as follows : feeding at batches while stirring tempestuously at 45 ℃, the
      ratio of n (C8 H17 (EO) 4OH) ∶n (P2O5 ) = 2∶1 ,esterifying at 70 ℃for 4 h , and add given volume of water at
      70 ℃for hydrolysing 2 h. The experimental results indicated that the isooctanol polyethenoxy ether phosphate
      synthesized under the optimum process conditions has good resistance to strong alkali penetration , whose
      penetration time is 4 s when its mass concentration is 200 gPL in sodium hydroxide solution
      Synthesis and characterization of crystallized &cross2linkedhigh water vapor permeable polyurethane
      QUAN Heng;NGJianwei;AN Zenglu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  60-64. 
      Abstract ( 2081 )   Save
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      A polyurethane (PU) coating agent was synthesized from 4 ,4′2 diphenylmethane diisocyanate (as
      soft segment) , polytetramethylene ether glycol , polyethylene glycol and self2prepared polyoxyethylenetriol (as
      hard segment) with 1 ,42butanediol as chain extender. Several representative properties of the polyurethane ,
      such as water vapor permeability , waterproofness , hydrophility , response to environmental temperature , etc.
      were studied. The results show that the fabric coated with the PU has water vapor transmission rate achieving
      over 3 500 gP(m2·d) , resistance to static hydraulic pressure up to 5 kPa , velocity of being wetted by water
      reaching about 11 (°)Pmin , and response to environment temperature ranging from 15 to 24 ℃. Meanwhile ,
      the probability of using the PU coating agent to produce intelligent waterproof and breathable fabric was
      analyzed.
      Research on polyacrylic acid size modif ied by nanomaterial
      CUI Jianwei;DENGWen;HOU Renyong;HANG Huiping;AN Xiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  65-68. 
      Abstract ( 1900 )   Save
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      A nanometer polyacrylic acid system size SX25PTiO2 was synthesized from dispersed TiO2
      solution and polyacrylic acid monomers. Sizing experiments of single yarn and sheet yarns were performed with
      SX25PTiO2 、SX25 , PVA and a mixture of starch. The results were compared and showed that SX2 5PTiO2
      exhibited less hairiness , better bonding strength and moisture absorbance when compared with PVA and
      conventional polyacrylic acid system size and it could be used for substitution for PVA
      Preparation of inorganic compound coagulant and its applicationin the treatment of dyeing effluent
      SUI Zhihui;LIU Anjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  69-72. 
      Abstract ( 1075 )   Save
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      A new type of inorganic polymer coagulant polysilicate aluminiumferric (PSAF) was prepared from
      coal gangue and pyrite slag and used as coagulant in the treatment of dyeing effluent , aiming at improving the
      treatment effect of dyeing effluent with coagulant . The experimental results showed that PSAF had a good
      coagulation effect in the treatment of dyeing effluent under the pH value ranging from 6 to 9. The removal rate
      of SS , colority and CODcr was 9411 % , 8816 % and 8112 % respectively under such conditions as room
      temperature , pH value = 712 and dosage of the coagulant 75 mgPL. In comparison with the conventional
      coagulants , such as PAC (polyaluminium chloride) and PFS (polyferric sulfate) , the coagulation performance
      of PSAF is characterized by higher settlement rate , smaller sludge volume , lower remains of pollutants in the
      treated dyeing effluent and lower cost of treatment
      Screening of strains for microbial degumming of ramie
      ZENG Ying;XIANG Xinzhu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  73-75. 
      Abstract ( 2017 )   Save
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      In order to improve degumming process of ramie , a fine strain An6 suitable for degumming of
      ramie was selected from the collected 60 strains by preliminary selection and repeated selection. An6 was
      inoculated in the medium containing unprocessed ramie bast as carbon source and 015 % (NH4 ) 2 SO4 as
      nitrogen source , added with 0105 %MgSO4 , 0105 %KCl , 011 %K2 HPO4 , 01001 %FeSO4 . Then , it was put
      into a shaker at 150 rPmin 30 ℃for 40 h. The results indicated that the residual gum content was only
      15193 %.
      High temperature and steam explosion united degumming of hemp f ibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  76-80. 
      Abstract ( 2097 )   Save
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      The process of high temperature and steam explosion united degumming of hemp fibers was
      researched , and the process conditions on the fiber properties and composition separating effect of the fibers
      were analyzed. SEM and FTIR were used to characterize the morphology and chemical composition of the
      degummed fibers. The results showed that the percentage of cellulose increased significantly while that of
      hemicellulose and lignin had a mass loss of 81152 % and 86168 % , respectively. Furthermore , it was found
      that different conditions such as temperature , dosage of alkali , pretreatment , pressure and temperature of
      steam , pressure holding time , steaming times and so on were main factors influencing the separation of the
      fibers. And high temperature steaming and pre2submerging helped the swell of hemp fibers so that the required
      conditions of explosion treatment could be lowered accordingly
      Research on the mathematical models of the biological degumming process of apocynum
      HAN Guangting;ZHANG Yuanming;FENG Xunwei;SUN Yongjun;LIU Caiming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  81-84. 
      Abstract ( 1265 )   PDF (145KB) ( 749 )   Save
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      For improving the apocynum degumming process and the quality of degummed apocynum,the mathematical models of the biological degumming process of apocynum are established by utilizing the 3 factors′ central rotary experimental design of Box-Hunter.The objective is to present the principle of quality of degummed apocynum varies with biological technological parametersdegumming temperature,initial pH value,quantity of microbe on quantitative basis.The results show that the order of the contribution of all parameters to removing the gum of apocynum is initial pH value>interaction of initial pH value and degumming temperature>quantity of microbe>treating temperature.The mathematical model has great significance to researching biological degumming of apcocynum.
      Effect of bleaching on the dyeing property of purple cashmere
      WEI Yujuan;WANG Junjie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  85-88. 
      Abstract ( 1273 )   PDF (115KB) ( 567 )   Save
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      In order to improve the dyeing quality of the bleached purple cashmere,the effect of bleaching technology on the dyeing property of purple cashmere is discussed in this paper.The influence of color and luster of the original cashmere,whiteness value,auxiliary agent SLS and Fe<sup>2+</sup> removal treatment on the dye uptake rate is investigated separately.The results show that the balance dyeing rate of the bleached purple cashmere decreases with increase of the fiber whiteness;bleaching has impact on weak acid,reactive and mordant dyes,and without exception to these dyes,the dye uptake of the bleached purple cashmere decreases.Especially to mordant dye,the residue of Fe2+ will react with dye,vying with Cr3+ in dyeing process.Compared with original cashmere,bleached purple cashmere is more sensitive to dyeing conditions,which makes the dyeing evenness decreased.The use of dye in the low temperature is optimization process.
      Effect of atmospheric pressure plasma jet treatment on dyeability of back and face of wool fabric
      WANG Chunxia;QIU Yiping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  89-92. 
      Abstract ( 1013 )   PDF (133KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      The influence of atmospheric pressure plasma jet treatment on dyeability of the back and face of wool fabric was investigated and the penetration of its etching into wool fabric was studied.After Helium atmospheric pressure plasma jet treatment of wool fabric,the dyeability of control and treated fabrics was measured.By comparing K/S value of control and both surfaces of treated fabric,the influence of processing parameters of atmospheric pressure plasma jet on modification of both surfaces was studied.The effect of plasma parameters such as treatment time,jet-to-substrate distance and substrate speed on penetration of plasma etching into wool fabric was investigated.It was demonstrated that plasma treatment time and jet-to-substrate distance has influence on penetration of atmospheric pressure plasma jet etching into wool fabric,while substrate speed has no considerable effect on it.
      服装工程
      Application analysis of the Japanese new prototype for women
      XUE Fuping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  93-96. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (145KB) ( 563 )   Save
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      The article elaborates the basic standard and figure adaptation requirement in the Japanese new prototype for women.Revision of different figures back length,the balance between waist line length and front-back bodices,handling of shoulder dart and bust dart,armhole depth and the definition of waist ease in respect of broken or enclosed waist seam are discussed.It is elucidated theoretically that shoulder dart and bust dart shows differences from the waist model.Taking the waist form-fitting and boxy silhouette for example,the design application of new prototype is analyzed,providing reference in theory for new prototype′s application.
      Relationship between perception and designing elements of woman′s overcoats
      WANG Ying;CHEN Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  97-100. 
      Abstract ( 1109 )   PDF (114KB) ( 481 )   Save
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      According to the principle of Kansei engineering,the perception of woman′s overcoats was researched.The space of designing elements and the space of perception were established respectively.The semantic differential method was applied to questionnaires.The numerical designing elements,which were obtained by the quantification theory,and the average value calculated from the data of questionnaires were put into multiple linear regression.The results of the regression were analyzed.The relationship between the two spaces was quantified,and mathematic models were established.These models can be applied to predict the perception evaluation of woman′s overcoats.
      Study on Kansei of fashion style based on human sensibility
      LIU Guolian;JIANG Ying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  101-105. 
      Abstract ( 1191 )   PDF (268KB) ( 778 )   Save
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      In this study,20 sheets of young and middle aged women′s representative fashion style pictures and 8 pairs of adjectives with opposite meaning were selected.The Kansei of fashion style was investigated by using questionnaire from 20-35 aged women,and then the data was analyzed by using statistical software package SPSS 11.0.The correlation between factors affecting fashion style of women and the sensory psychology of consumers have been investigated based on the theory of Kansei engineering.The results showed that the sensory needs of human for fashion style were composed of sex factor and individuality factor.The relationships between conceptive factors affecting fashion style and style sensibility were manifested directly by means of the line and bulk of style or the quadrant of different styles.
      Digitized categorization for garment size designation based on the approaching principle
      WANG Jianping;LI Yueli;YU Fang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  106-110. 
      Abstract ( 1056 )   PDF (128KB) ( 565 )   Save
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      The requirement of an individual fitting garment has become a trend in consumption,and the digitized categorization for garment size designation is a prerequisite for quick realization of an individual fitting garment.In this paper,the men′s suit was taken as an example for mass customization.According to the national garment standard,the method of digitized categorization for garment size designation was explored and developed based on the approaching principle of artificial intelligence.Meanwhile,it was indicated that it was necessary to perfect the garment size designation series of enterprises.The practical effect of the method was validated by a case analysis and corporation application.It offered an effective approach to achieve digitized categorization for garment size designation because of its universal rules for other garment categories.
      Extending design of buttons in modern clothing design
      CHEN Peiqing;CAO Qiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  111-114. 
      Abstract ( 1027 )   PDF (288KB) ( 620 )   Save
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      As one of important clothing accessories,the close material has a very important status in the clothing.In the ready made clothing design of recent years,the close material has become an important design factor,as being extended as a simplex decorative material from the decorative material associated with the closure function.Button,as an important element among the close materials,has a history of more than(6 000) years.This paper expatiates the origin and development of buttons,explains methods of extending design of buttons in modern clothing design,including the combination of functional and decorative design, and the design of simplex decorative.In the combination of functional and decorative design,it includes enriching button colors,diversified shapes,contrasting sizes of buttons,and combination and arrangement of buttons,etc.
      Evolution of Chinese knot
      LI Lixin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  115-118. 
      Abstract ( 1976 )   PDF (492KB) ( 2475 )   Save
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      In studying the decoration artistic form of our national traditional cultureChinese knot,the traditional knot technique,we divide the evolution history of Chinese knot into two stagesancient times to Republic of China and modern times and investigate the cultural and artistic value of the Chinese knot for apparel and adornment in different historical stages.Its expression forms and characteristics in traditional and modern clothing including adornments and accessories are highlighted.It points out clearly that the Chinese knot is unique decorative element inherent in the Chinese traditional culture,having extraordinary nationality feature in decorating the clothing and its application.Supposedly,we can get some inspirations from it for the modern clothing design and product development.
      Inheritance and development of Nuchen Nationality′s clothing culture from Jin Dynasty
      GU Yunfen;YANG Shuxiu;ZENG Hui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  119-123. 
      Abstract ( 1361 )   PDF (271KB) ( 1836 )   Save
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      Since ancient times in our country all the minority nationality communities evolved from the same history,and influenced each other when living in groups,consequently,a distinctly regional and steadily inheritable national clothing culture feature was formed.This paper tries to compare the clothing and accessories excavated from Qi King′s grave of Jin Dynasty with those of Southern Song Dynasty at the same period and starting from the difference between national clothing cultures,discusses the characteristics of inheritable clothing culture in Nuchen Nationality of Jin Dynasty respectively in terms of the classification of function,custom and fashion with emphasis on the factors influencing the inheritable development of national culture,including naturally ecological environment,living conditions in groups and cultural ideology.
      机械与器材
      Embedded system for warp tension control based on ARM and μClinux architecture
      JIANG Yi;ZHANG Senlin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  124-127. 
      Abstract ( 1133 )   PDF (137KB) ( 469 )   Save
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      To improve the loom′s speed and the quality of textiles,an embedded system for warp tension which can fulfill the required control function at a comparatively low cost is designed,taking advantages of S3C44B0X′s rich hardware resources and embedded operating system μClinux's high real time and multiple tasks.The description of the system includes the design and implementation of hardware architecture,the design and implementation of application program and the keep method of wrap tension control.It can keep wrap tension constant and response fast with high precision.It is easy to eliminate start marks and other problems.The results indicate that the control system can settle some difficult control problems and has advanced functions.
      管理与信息化
      Comparison of denoising methods used in fabric defects image
      LIU Jianli;ZUO Baoqi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  128-131. 
      Abstract ( 958 )   PDF (310KB) ( 622 )   Save
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      The image denoising is the important process of fabric defects identification and classification.This paper includes three image denoising methods,which are median value filtering method,Wiener filtering method and denoising with the wavelet thresholding.Both of 3×3 and 5×5 filters are used when median value filtering and Wiener filtering methods are implemented.The global threshold value is computed and the soft and hard thresholding methods are both executed when utilizing wavelet thresholding.By experiment and comparison,we find that the edge of fabric defects is clearer and the PSNR is improved distinctly when denoised by wavelet thresholding method,the performance of which is much better than that of median value filtering method or Wiener filtering method;the fabric defects image denoised with wavelet thresholding method can be used for features extracting and defects identification.
      Information shared model of polyester industry
      DING Xianghai;CHEN Chouyong;TANG Renzhong;YU Fumao;CHEN Junxian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  132-135. 
      Abstract ( 928 )   PDF (134KB) ( 439 )   Save
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      In order to realize information shared in the polyester product chain,an information shared model of polyester product chain was constructed.The characteristics of the polyester product chain were analyzed in respect of product attributes,trading mode,partner relationship.Based on the classification of the information of the polyester sector,two kinds of information shared models,i.e.,point-to-point and centralized management have been taken into consideration.And the information shared model of polyester product chain was established.An indepth analysis of the data integration of the model was conducted,and its solution was developed based on XML and XML Schema.Application of this model can improve the ties between polyester enterprises and promote the harmonized development of the polyester industry.
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      Structure and properties of Seacell fiber
      QIN Yimin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  136-138. 
      Abstract ( 1640 )   PDF (124KB) ( 567 )   Save
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      To understand the structure and properties of Seacell fiber,this paper analyzed the composition and structural characteristics,strength,and extensibility of the fiber.It also introduced the process of making silver containing Seacell active fiber by treating the fiber with silver nitrate and the property of the treated fiber.Results show that though there is a reduction in fiber strength and extensibility of Seacell active fiber,it has been imparted good antimicrobial properties against Candida albicans,Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli that are responsible for itching,dermatitis and skin infection respectively.Because Seacell fiber and Seacell active fiber have combined the excellent physical properties of Lyocell fiber,the bioactivities of seaweed biomaterial,and silver ions,they are valuable for the production of functional textiles.
      Application of temperature-sensitive hydrogels to the development of intelligent fabrics
      LIU Shufang;GU Zhenya
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  139-143. 
      Abstract ( 1112 )   PDF (162KB) ( 952 )   Save
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      Temperature-sensitive hydrogels are intelligent materials,which can response to the temperature and have been widely applied to controlled release of medicine,separation membranes,tissue engineering scaffolds,and so forth.Intelligent fabrics based on temperature-sensitive hydrogels can be made by grafting the copolymerization of the hydrogel polymers onto the surface of fabrics or coating the fabrics by the polymer solution.This paper focuses on some development cases dealing with smart breathable fabric,controlled releasing medicine fabric,smart wound dressing,smart wetsuit,smart anti-soaking suit and smart temperature-adaptable sportswear,etc.Moreover,the prospective applications to other intelligent fabrics are elaborated.
      Research progress in pressure comfort of foundation garment
      DUAN Xingyuan;YU Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(11):  144-148. 
      Abstract ( 908 )   PDF (122KB) ( 593 )   Save
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      Pressure comfort is an important aspect to affect the development of foundation garment.The theoretical basis on pressure comfort of foundation garment,the factors influencing pressure comfort,and two methods for evaluating pressure comfort of foundation garment(subjective evaluating,objective evaluating) are described.The latest inroads in research on dynamic garment pressure distribution are also introduced.In addition,existing problems in studying on pressure comfort of foundation garment is pointed out,and some new ideas about further study of pressure comfort of foundation garment are advised.