Table of Content

15 July 2025, Volume 46 Issue 07

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Fiber Materials

Nanofibrils exfoliated from silk fibroin by deep eutectic solvent and its film-forming properties

JIANG Shuning, YANG Haiwei, LI Changlong, ZHENG Tianliang, WANG Zongqian

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  1-9.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241004601

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Objective The conventional dissolution-regeneration process destroys the multiscale hierarchical structure of silk fibroin (SF) fibers, resulting in inferior mechanical properties and limited applications of the regenerated SF films. This study aims to extract silk fibroin nanofibrils (SNF) retaining the pristine meso-structure by the green deep eutectic solvent (DES) exfoliation of SF fibers for the preparation of high-strength SNF films.

Method The DESs with different acidities and alkalinities were prepared by mixing choline chloride (ChCl) with urea (Ur), lactic acid (LA), and glycerol (Gly) under heating. The SF fibers were exfoliated using each of the three types of DES, and an optimal DES system was selected based on the exfoliation effect. On this basis, the temperature and time of DES exfoliation of SF fibers were optimized according to the yield of SNF. The recyclability and reusability of DES were also evaluated. Furthermore, the micro-morphology, molecular conformation, and crystal structure of SF fibers were investigated before and after exfoliation. Then, an evolution model of SF fibers to SNF during the exfoliation was constructed to elucidate the molecular mechanism of SF fibers exfoliated by DES. Meanwhile, SNF films were prepared by vacuum filtration. The microstructure, mechanical properties, and optical properties of the SNF films were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, universal testing machine, and UV-Vis spectrophotometer.

Results Compared to ChCl/LA and ChCl/Gly DES, ChCl/Ur DES exhibited a stronger exfoliation capacity for SF fibers. After treatment with ChCl/Ur DES at 110 ℃ for 24 h, a higher yield (49.79%) of SNF was obtained by ultrasonic treatment and centrifugation. The diameters of the extracted SNF were in the range of 20-107 nm (average diameter of 57 nm), showing excellent dispersion stability. Additionally, the DES exhibited superior recyclability and reusability. After 5 cycles, the recovery rate of DES and the yield of SNF remained above 90% and 45%, respectively. The FT-IR spectrum analysis showed that DES mainly disrrupted the SF molecular network in the amorphous region, leading to a higher relative content of β-sheet structures in the SNF. The XRD results confirmed that DES weakened the interfacial interactions among the SF fibers and did not destroy their internal meso-structures. Consequently, the DES-treated SF fibers swelled and loosened, and were gradually exfoliated into micro-nano fibrils. Furthermore, more micro-nano fibrils were promoted to be converted into SNF by ultrasonic treatment. The SNF films prepared by the vacuum filtration assembly were optically transparent (above 87% transmittance) in the visible region (400-800 nm). SEM images showed that the SNF films had tightly arranged nanofibril networks and porous structures. Compared with the regenerated SF films, the SNF films demonstrated superior thermal stability and an increase in breaking strength and toughness of 68.19% and 410%, respectively.

Conclusion The ChCl/Ur DES displayed a strong exfoliation ability to SF fibers. Under the optimal exfoliation process (110 ℃, 24 h) conditions, SNF with high yield and dispersion stability could be extracted after sonication and centrifugation. In addition, DES had satisfactory recyclability and reusability, demonstrating green and sustainable advantages. During the DES exfoliation, DES mainly destroyed the SF molecular network in the amorphous region, leading to the swelling and loosening of the SF fibers, which were then exfoliated into nanofibrils and retained the original β-sheet crystal structures. As a result, the prepared SNFs featured high light transmittance, tightly arranged nanofibril networks, and porous structures. More importantly, SNF films exhibited superior mechanical properties compared to regenerated SF films. This study provides an experimental basis for the green and efficient extraction of SNF and the construction of high-performance silk-based film materials.

Electrostatic field synergistic conformation of down/silicon dioxide aerogel warmth keeping materials

ZHANG Shasha, CAI Muhang, LÜ Xiaojing, HU Dan, LIU Juan, JI Xingzhao, CAO Genyang, WANG Haona

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  10-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240802701

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Objective Thin and lightweight warmth keeping materials are one of the hot spots in the research of cold-proof clothing. Downs play an important role in conventional warmth keeping materials, but the coat bloating runs against people's pursuit of beauty and comfort. Silica (SiO₂) aerogel has a thermal conductivity lower than 0.02 W/(m·K) at room temperature, which has a broad application prospect in the field of warmth. However, when aerogel powder is used as a filler for warmth keeping, uneven dispersion due to agglomeration appears to be problematic, in addition to the short durability of aerogel powder composites due to powder falling.

Method This study creates a stable electrostatic field using the inherent charge differences between polyester fibers and down. By integrating aerogel's ultralight properties with down's 3-D network structure, electrostatic forces precisely position aerogel particles, forming a uniformly structured thermal composite with enhanced warmth keeping synergy. The dispersion and adsorption state of silica aerogel powder inside the material, as well as the influence of down and aerogel powder filling amount on the warmth keeping properties of the samples and their optimization were specifically studied.

Results Observed using an optical microscope, it revealed that SiO₂ aerogel powders and their aggregates were adsorbed on the surface of down filaments and uniformly distributed with the help of down filaments, which was consistent with the constructed model based on the electrostatic adsorption principle. The adsorption and uniform dispersion of the aerogel powder were successfully achieved, solving the problem of SiO₂ aerogel powder on agglomeration when used as a filler. In the ultra-light samples, the Crowe values per unit thickness of the down/aerogel powder composite samples with the same mass were higher than those of the single down-filled samples, in which the Crowe values per unit thickness of the composite samples in the third group of samples were 105.23% higher than those of the single down, indicating that a synergistic warmth keeping effect of mixing the down with the SiO₂ aerogel powder was achieved using the electrostatic field. In the cold-tolerant samples with the increase of SiO₂ aerogel powder filling amount, the Crowe value per unit thickness of the down/aerogel powder composite samples showed a trend of increasing and then slowly decreasing. This is because the adsorption of down filaments on aerogel powder has a saturation value, and the Crowe value per unit thickness of the samples would reach the maximum value when powder saturation was reached. Cyclic washing resistance test showed that after washing for 5 cycles, the mass loss of the sample with the maximum filling volume in the light and thin sample and the extreme cold sample was 0.06 g and 0.08 g, respectively. Owing to the selection of high-density calendared anti-feather coating cloth for the sample, the overall tightness of the sample was good, and the internal hydrophobicity of the sample was maintained during the washing process, which further reduced the leakage of SiO₂ aerogel powder. The addition of hydrophobic SiO₂ aerogel powder makes the samples maintain good warmth keeping performance after repeated washing, and the samples demonstrated excellent washing resistance.

Conclusion The results showed that the adsorption of SiO₂ aerogel powder was successfully achieved by using the electrostatic force generated by the friction between the down and the fabric, and the three-dimensional structure of the down was utilized to achieve the purpose of uniformly dispersing the aerogel powder. Compared with the single down-filled sample, the Crowe value per unit thickness of the sample increased by 105.23% with the addition of SiO₂ aerogel powder, indicating that a synergistic effect exists in the interaction between down and aerogel powder. The sample filled with 10 g of SiO₂ aerogel powder only lost 0.01 g of mass and 0.02 clo of Crowe value after washing for 5 cycles, and the warmth keeping effect was still well maintained after washing. In summary, the proposed down/aerogel powder warmth keeping composite material overcomes the problem of easy agglomeration of aerogel powder as a filler and reduces the thickness of the warmth keeping material on the basis of guaranteeing the warmth keeping effect, which provides a new way of thinking for the design and development of thin and light thermal material.

Preparation and properties of aramid nanofibers/thermoplastic polyurethane composite microporous membrane and respirable coated fabric

ZHANG Liping, GUO Yuqing, DING Bo, SUN Jie

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  19-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240803401

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Objective Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) can be prepared into microporous membranes by melt processing or solution processing. Aramid nanofibers (ANF) are nano-sized PPTA aramid fibers with excellent mechanical properties. Both ANF and TPU contain amide bonds. From the existing research, the combination of the two can achieve a better composite effect in theory by establishing multiple interactions such as hydrogen bonds. However, there is still a lack of systematic research in this aspect. Hence, ANF was introduced into the preparation of TPU microporous membrane, and the improvement and regulation of ANF on the structure and properties of TPU microporous membrane were analyzed and discussed, and its application in outdoor sportswear was preliminarily investigated.

Method TPU microporous membrane was prepared by wet scraping method based on the non-solvent induced phase separation technology, using DMF as solvent, ethanol as non-solvent and ANF as modifier. Firstly, the regulation effect of different mass fractions of ANF on the internal pores of TPU microporous membrane was discussed. Then, the best formula was selected to coat the fabric, and the properties of the coated fabric were analyzed to explore the application of the microporous membrane in the development of outdoor windproof and warm-keeping fabrics.

Results The ANF/TPU casting solution exhibited Newtonian fluid behavior at low shear rate, and the dispersion was dominated by viscous behavior, showing a liquid-dominated viscoelastic phase. From the microscopic morphology of the composite membrane, the size of the cell was gradually increased and the connectivity between the cell chambers strengthened as the amount of ANF increased. The BET diagram showed that the pore structure of the composite membrane was irregular, and the addition of ANF led to a decrease in the number of macropores in the microporous membrane. IR spectra and XRD patterns showed that ANF had good compatibility with TPU. The air permeability and moisture permeability of the composite membrane were increased with the increase of ANF, and the decrease of water wettability was not obvious. When the mass fraction of ANF was increased to 0.4%, the breaking strength of the microporous membrane reached the maximum of 1.3 MPa, which was 66.7% higher than that of the untreated microporous membrane. When the content of ANF continued to increase, the tensile strength declined slightly, and the elongation at break also showed a similar trend. The 0.4% ANF/TPU composite membrane was selected to coat the nylon Taslon fabric. From the microscopic morphology map, it was found that the interface between the membrane and the fabric is well combined. The coating treatment gave the fabric a gas barrier to maintain good moisture permeability, which significantly improved the mechanical properties of the fabric. The breaking strength and elongation were increased by 92% and 5.2%, respectively, compared with the original fabric.

Conclusion TPU was blended with ANF, and it was found that ANF could adjust the pore size and connectivity of the microporous membrane. With the increase of ANF content, the pore size of the composite membrane gradually increased, and more pores appeared on the bubble wall. This multi-level microporous structure influenced the air permeability, moisture permeability and mechanical properties of the microporous membrane. The 0.4% ANF/TPU composite membrane had excellent mechanical properties. The breaking strength and elongation at break were 1.3 MPa and 400%, respectively, which were 66.7% and 17.5% higher than those of pure TPU membrane, respectively. As the mass fraction of ANF increased to 0.8%, the air permeability and moisture permeability of the composite membrane continued to increase, and the highest values were 2.95 mm/s and 3 315 g/(m²·d), respectively. The 0.8% ANF/TPU composite film with excellent comprehensive performance was adopted to compound with Taslon fabric. It was found that the breaking strength and elongation of the coated fabric were increased by 92% and 5.2%; respectively, compared with the original fabric, which had a good application prospect in the field of outdoor sports.

Influences of sodium tetraborate/tannic acid cross-linking on structure and properties of calcium alginate fibers

ZHU Lei, LI Xiaojun, CHENG Chunzu, XU Jigang, DU Xinyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  28-36.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240805401

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Objective Calcium alginate fiber has poor mechanical properties and saline stability, which seriously limits its application in textile and garment fields. Most of the studies achieved the performance enhancement of calcium alginate fibers by chemical treatment of sodium alginate spinning stock solution and coagulation bath, and fewer studies related to direct cross-linking treatment of calcium alginate fibers. This paper introduces an effort to overcome the performance defects of calcium alginate fibers by impregnating them with cross-linking agents.

Method Calcium alginate (CA) fibers with different cross-linking types were prepared by impregnation method, and the structure and properties of the fibers were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and optical microscopy (POM) moisture absorption and retention test, salt resistance and washing resistance test, and mechanical properties test.

Results Sodium tetraborate (STB) is bonded to calcium alginate (CA) macromolecules through B—O covalent bonds, effectively improving the saline and washing stability of CA fibers. Tannic acid (TA) was employed to regulate the calcium ion cross-linking between CA macromolecules through its chelating action with calcium ions in CA, indirectly enhancing the coordinated action of CA macromolecules through the strong hydrogen bond between phenolic hydroxyl groups and CA. These two actions, while improving the stability of CA fibers, also more effectively improved the mechanical properties of CA fibers. By combining STB and TA to cross-link CA successfully, a synergistic cross-linking network of ″borate covalent bond-tannic acid chelation-hydrogen bond″ was formed. On the one hand, it dispersed STB and promoted the cross-linking effect of STB on CA more effectively. On the other hand, it positioned TA and promoted the enhancement of strong hydrogen bond coordination between CA macromolecules more effectively, achieving a significant improvement in the tensile strength and elongation at break of CA fibers. As a result, the breaking strength of calcium alginate fibers was increased by 27.18% and the elongation at break by 7.48%, thereby achieving a significant improvement in the saline and washing stability and mechanical properties of CA fibers.

Conclusion Both TA and STB inhibit the calcium-sodium ion exchange of the fibers in metal ion-containing solution. TA improves the crystallinity of CA fibers, enhances the intermolecular hydrogen bonding, and increases the strength of CA fibers, while STB improves the elongation at break and the washing stability of CA fibers. Through the combination of TA and STB crosslinking CA, a synergistic crosslinking network of “borate covalent bonding-tannic acid-hydrogen bonding” was successfully constructed, which increased the breaking strength of calcium alginate fibers by 27.18% and the elongation at break by 7.48%, and the morphology and size of the fibers did not change much after being treated with saline and washing solution, and the saline resistance and washing resistance were significantly improved.

Preparation and antibacterial property of zinc oxide-silver/bio-based polyamide 56 composite nanofiber membranes

XU Liya, WANG Zhen, YANG Hongjie, WANG Wei

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  37-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240803101

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Objective Bio-based polypentanediamine adipate (PA56), entirely or partially synthesized from biomass feedstocks, has emerged as environmentally friendly alternative to petroleum-based counterparts and has gained considerable at traction in recent years. PA56 holds significant potential in textiles, food packaging and other fields, by virtue of its good strength and toughness with excellent fatigue resistance. Despite its promising prospects, limited studies have been given to PA56 nanofibers for biomedical applications. Hence, nano ZnO-Ag compound antibacterial agent was prepared and blended with PA56 matrix. ZnO-Ag/PA56 composite nanofiber membranes were then fabricated by electrospinning process for antibacterial applications.

Method The preparation of ZnO-Ag nano particles includes mixing a complex of silver acetate and ammonium hydroxide with nano ZnO dispersions, followed by the addition of formic acid as a reducing agent. The prepared ZnO-Ag particles were blended with PA56 matrix by melt extrusion and ZnO-Ag/PA56 composite nanofiber membranes were then fabricated by electrospinning technology. Morphologies of the ZnO-Ag particles and ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes were characterized with transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The influences of encapsulated ZnO-Ag particles on the antibacterial activity, crystallinity, mechanical and wettability properties of the nanofiber membranes were investigated. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity and skin stimulation of the ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes were analyzed.

Results The average sizes of original ZnO particles are about 20-30 nm and the Ag particles embedded in the prepared ZnO-Ag compound are spherical in shape with an average diameter of 6-10 nm, which have been reported to show higher antimicrobial efficacy. Blank PA56 nanofibers have uniform morphology and smooth surface. ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers have round morphology and ZnO-Ag particels distribute in the nanofibers uniformly without any obvious gathering. The average diameter of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers decreases with the increase of ZnO-Ag content. This is because that ZnO is a semiconductor and Ag is a conductor, which can increase the charge density of the spinning solution and give a strong elongation force to the ejected polymeric jet. When ZnO-Ag mass fraction is 6%, the average diameter of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber is 401.18 nm, 54.9% of the average diameter of PA56 nanofiber (731.40 nm). The results of inhibition zone test show that blank PA56 nanofiber membranes do not offer any antibacterial ability. ZnO/PA56 nanofiber membranes have antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, while have not antibacterial ability against Escherichia coli. ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes exhibit good antibacterial effects against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. In order to quantify the antibacterial properties of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers, a standard plate counting approach that tracked bacterial proliferation was performed. After incubation with the bacterial suspension, Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli in ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber groups show lower viability than those in the PA56 groups, where bacterial colonies proliferate extensively. A sharp decrease in colony formation occurres at a mass fraction of 2% ZnO-Ag and the nanofiber membranes exhibit higher inhibition rate against Staphylococcus aureus (73.5%) than Escherichia coli (51.5%). Increasing the content of ZnO-Ag in the nanofibers significantly enhances their antibacterial capability. The nanofiber membranes containing 4% ZnO-Ag effectively suppress the bacteria growth, and the antibacterial rate is 96.1% for Staphylococcus aureus and 84.2% for Escherichia coli. When the mass fraction of ZnO-Ag are 6%, the antibacterial rate reaches 98.7% and 89.3% against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, respectively. The NIH-3T3 cells were incubated with extract solution to check the biosafety of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers. After 48 h incubation, all the cells have normal morphology and are harvested at viability greater than 85%. In order to evaluate the potential skin inflammation caused by ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber meshes, the samples were placed on the back skin of mice. After patch application for 24 h, no evidence of erythema, edema or other changes is found on the skin surface. Moreover, no conspicuous local inflammation or adverse events occurs in viable epidermis and dermis. These results suggest that the ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers are biocompatible and well tolerated by the skin. The crystalline behavior of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The addition of ZnO-Ag particles in PA56 nanofibers has no significant influence on melting temperature, while the melting peak area increases, indicating the increased crystallinity of the nanofibers with ZnO-Ag mass fraction. This is because that the growing charge density of the spinning solution promotes the stretching and orientation of the ejected polymeric jet. ZnO-Ag particles can also induce heterogeneous crystallization as nucleating agents and increase the crystallinity of polymer. As well known, a higher degree of crystallinity indicates a greater number of macromolecular chain segments being incorporated into the crystalline region, thereby enhancing deformation resistance. Therefore, the tensile strength of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes increases with ZnO-Ag mass fraction. The blank PA56 nanofiber membranes present an ultimate breaking strength of 8.81 MPa, and that raises to 13.89 MPa with increasing ZnO-Ag mass fracton to 6%. The wettability of the nanofiber membranes was evaluated through water contact angle (WCA) analysis. The surface WCA of PA56 nanofiber membranes is about 88.37°, and the water droplet immerses through the membrane within 21 s. It is known that PA56 possesses hydrophilicity by virtue of the repeating units with polar amide groups (—CONH—) along the polymer chain. Because ZnO-Ag is a polar substance, the incorporation of ZnO-Ag into PA56 nanofibers improves the hydrophilicity of the membranes. When the mass fraction of ZnO-Ag is 6%, the surface WCA of the membrane is about 58.91°, and the water drop disappears quickly within 3 s.

Conclusion ZnO-Ag composite antibacterial agent containing Ag particles with a diameter of 6-10 nm was prepared and ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes were fabricated by electrospinning process. The ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers have round morphology and ZnO-Ag particles distribute in the nanofibers uniformly without any obvious aggregation. With the increase of ZnO-Ag mass fraction, the crystallinity, tensile strength and hydrophilicity of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofibers increase, while the average diameter of the nanofibers decreases. The antibacterial rates of ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes containing 6% ZnO-Ag against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli are 98.7% and 89.3%, respectively. The ZnO-Ag/PA56 nanofiber membranes also have good biocompatibility and skin tolerability, which offers a great potential in biomedical applications.

Preparation and properties of cationic dyeable poly(propylene terephthalate) pre-oriented yarns

LIU Yuxiang, WU Jing, XU Jinlong, XIE Ruimin, WANG Huaping

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  46-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240704401

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Objective Poly(propylene terephthalate) (PTT) is widely used for its excellent all-round properties, especially in the field of apparel. However, its poor fiber dyeability limits its application in fibers. Currently commonly used disperse dyes have the disadvantages of poor environmental friendliness, incomplete chromatography, high cost, and so on. Compared with disperse dyes, cationic dyes have the advantages of environmental friendliness, complete chromatography, bright color and low cost. Therefore, studying cationic dyeable PTT fibers is of great significance.

Method Cationic dyeable poly(propylene terephthalate)(CDPTT) is prepared by adding sodium malonyl isophthalate-5-sulfonate to the polymerization process of PTT. Using PTT and CDPTT as raw materials, PTT and CDPTT pre-oriented yarn (POY) were prepared by high-speed melt spinning. In order to investigate the comprehensive performance of CDPTT, the influences of spinning temperature, spinning speed, and draw multiplier on the spinnability, orientation, crystallization, mechanical properties, and boiling water shrinkage were studied. Meanwhile, the dyeing properties of CDPTT fibers were investigated using cationic red and cationic blue.

Results The results showed that since the melting point of CDPTT slices was lower than that of PTT slices, the temperature of CDPTT slices was appropriately lowered in all zones of the spinning process screw, and they had good spinnability at 255 ℃. With the increase of spinning speed, the crystallinity and breaking strength of the fiber increased, and the elongation at break decreased. This can be explained by the fact that faster the spinning speed is associated to larger the nozzle stretching ratio, and hence the macromolecular chain can be better stretched under the action of spinning stress. When the spinning speed was 3 500 m/min, the crystallinity of CDPTT fiber was 19.19%, the breaking strength was 2.54 cN/dtex, and the elongation at break was 18.41%. With the increase of drafting ratio, the orientation and crystallinity of CDPTT fiber demonstrated increases, and the boiling water shrinkage became decreases, because the drafting is conducive to the further arrangement of macromolecules in the direction of the fiber axis, and the molecular chain is further oriented and arranged, and the crystallization occurs. When the drafting ratio was 2.3, the orientation of CDPTT fiber was 40.89%, the crystallinity was 21.01%, the breaking strength was 3.45 cN/dtex, the elongation at break was 20.41%, and the boiling water shrinkage was 17.08%. CDPTT fiber had good cationic dyeing performance under conditons low temperature and normal pressure, and the dyeing rate and K/S value of the fiber showed a tendency to increase firstly and then decrease as the temperature was raised, and the change of dyeing rate and K/S value tended to be flat as the dye dosage was raised. The dyeing rate and K/S value of the two cationic dyes reached the maximum value at 100 ℃, which were 98.45% and 99.68%, 32.57 and 34.18, respectively, and the color fastness to soap washing of the CDPTT fibers after dyeing was above level 4, which was in line with the requirements of the color fastness to soap washing for apparel fabrics.

Conclusion CDPTT fibers prepared by high-speed melt spinning had a strength up to 3.45 cN/dtex, an elongation at break up to 20.41%, an orientation of 40.89%, a crystallinity of 21.01% and a boiling water shrinkage of 17.08%. Due to the addition of sodium malonyl isophthalate-5-sulfonate, the regularity of the original structure of the fiber was destroyed, which caused the mechanical properties, crystallinity and orientation of CDPTT fiber decreased compared with those of PTT fiber. Through the study of the dyeing performance of CDPTT and PTT fiber, the addition of dyeing groups significantly improved the dyeing properties of the fiber with cationic dyes, so that the dyeing rate of CDPTT fiber and the K/S value of CDPTT fiber were significantly improved, with the color fastness to soap washing reaching above grade 4. The prepared CDPTT fiber has good comprehensive performance, which broadens its application prospect in the field of fiber and textile.

Preparation and properties of polyamide 6/copolyamide eccentric sheath-core composite fibers

LIAO Mengdie, XIAO Wangyang, LI Hongxin, ZHAO Man, ZHANG Xuzhen, WANG Xiuhua

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  53-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240908501

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Objective In order to expand the application field of polyamide fiber, polyamide 6/copolyamide eccentric sheath-core composite fiber composed of polyamide 6 (PA6) and copolyamide (COPA) was developed. This composite fiber combines the excellent mechanical properties, dyeing performance and wear resistance of polyamide fiber with the excellent crimp elasticity and soft handfeeling of the composite fiber. The influence of the drafting and heat-setting processes on the properties of the composite fibers was investigated, aiming to provide valuable insights for the development and application of polyamide-based composite fibers.

Method The PA6/COPA eccentric sheath-core composite pre-oriented yarn (POY) was successfully produced using melt spin-ning technology, employing PA6 and COPA as raw materials through a customized spinneret. Subsequently, the as-spun fiber was drafted and heat-set using specialized drafting equipment in the laboratory. The crystallization, orientation, mechanical, shrinkage, and crimp characteristics of the composite fibers, subjected to various draft multiples, were tested and analyzed using differential scanning calorimetry, a two-dimensional wide-angle X-ray diffractometer, a sound velocity orientation instrument, and an electronic single yarn strength tester.

Results The influence of draft ratio on the structure and properties of PA6/COPA eccentric sheath-core composite fibers was investigated by varying the draft ratio. The results indicated that when the heat setting temperature was 160 ℃, the crystallinity and orientation degree of the PA6/COPA eccentric sheath-core composite fibers increased with the increase of draft ratio from 1.10 to 1.30. The breaking strength increased from 3.67 cN/dtex to 4.63 cN/dtex, while the elongation at break decreased from 56.44% to 38.46%. When the heat treatment temperature is constant, the dry heat shrinkage and wet heat shrinkage of the composite fibers increased with the increase of the draft ratio. When the drafting ratio was constant, the dry heat shrinkage and wet heat shrinkage of the composite fibers increased with the heat treatment temperature. After heat treatment at 120 ℃, the composite fibers exhibited excellent crimp morphology. When the draft ratio was increased from 1.10 to 1.30, the crimp number of the composite fibers was risen from 14 curls/(25 mm) to 21 curls/(25 mm), the crimp rate was increased from 11.36% to 13.81%, and the crimp elasticity was improved from 83.32% to 88.52%.

Conclusion With the increase in draft ratio, the mechanical strength and crimp shrinkage of PA6/COPA eccentric sheath-core composite fibers are improved significantly. When the heat treatment temperature is 100 ℃, the shrinkage difference between the two components of the composite fiber is small, preventing the formation of self-crimping. As the temperature increases from 100 ℃ to 120 ℃, the composite fiber develops a complete and distinct crimp morphology. Thus, increasing the heat treatment temperature facilitates the crimp formation in composite fibers. The study provides a reference for expanding the application of polyamide in self-crimping composite fibers.

Textile Engineering

Mathematical modeling and application of feeding ratios for multi-fiber combed fiber rolls

YANG Tianqi, REN Jiazhi, WANG Xuzhen, CHEN Yuheng

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  62-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240907001

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Objective In order to improve the accuracy of the blending ratio of various fibers in multi-fiber combed yarns, a mathematical model of the feeding ratio of fiber rolls in combing machines was established and validated experimentally. The "yarn cross-section fiber counting method" is proposed to determine the actual ratio of various fibers in blended yarns for improving the detection efficiency. This study provides an accurate and effective method for the determination of various fiber blending ratios in fiber rolls and the detection of various fiber blending ratios in blended yarns during multi-fiber blending and combing.

Method Tests were conducted for each type of single-component fiber rolls to determine the amount of fiber loss during combing. Based on the balance relationship among the fiber layer feed-in amount, fiber loss amount, and fiber web output amount during the combing process, a mathematical model was established for determining the feed ratio of combed fiber rolls. Using polyester, cotton, and viscose fibers at a designed blend ratio of 40∶30∶30, the fibers were blended and then combed before being spun into yarn. This study designed the spinning process flow, fiber blending methods, multi-fiber combing techniques, as well as the corresponding process parameters. Multi-fiber combed yarns were spun, and cross-sectional slices of the yarn were prepared. The actual blend ratio of the blended yarn was determined using the yarn cross-section fiber counting method.

Results The multifiber combed fiber roll casting ratio model was applied to determine the actual blending ratio using the statistical method of the number of fiber in the yarn cross-section. The actual measurement results showed that the contents of polyester, cotton, and viscose in the blended yarn were 39.21%, 31.48%, and 29.31%, respectively. The difference rates from the designed blend ratio were 1.98%, 4.93%, and 2.30%, respectively, which fell within the control range specified by national standards. The conventional physical method took 220 min to detect the actual blend ratio. By adopting the manual cross-section fiber counting method, the total testing time was approximately 150 min, a 46.7% increase in efficiency compared to the conventional physical testing method.

Conclusion Multi-fiber combed fiber roll feeding ratio of the mathematical model was proved to be useful in production practice and the ″yarn cross-section fiber counting method″ was shown operatable in determining the actual blend ratio of various fibers for multi-fiber blended yarns with convenience, fast speed and accuracy.

Study on fiber hooking in cotton fiber assembly based on fiber mass distribution method

CHU Xiangting, GAO Jian, ZHANG Hongdou, LU Huiwen, LIU Xinjin, SU Xuzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  69-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240402001

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Objective In textile production, 80% of fibers in card sliver are hooked fibers. However, the hooked fiber is easy to twist into nep in the later process, which has a significant negative impact on the yarn strength, uniformity and fabric appearance. The number and directions of hooked fibers determine the fiber straightness and yarn evenness. Therefore, the measurement and characterization of hooked fiber is of great significance for optimizing process parameters, regulating spinning processes and improving semi-finished products and yarn quality. At present, most methods to characterize hooked fibers by measuring fiber straightness have the disadvantages of heavy workload and long testing time. The rapid batch detection of hooked fibers is of great significance for adjusting process parameters in time and improving yarn quality.

Method In order to quickly detect the hooked fiber state in each process, this paper puts forward a new method to quickly obtain the hooked index in cotton yarn to characterize the hooked state with the instrument USTER^®LVI 930. The proportion of hooked fiber in spinning process measured by the tracer fiber method is based on data. Then the instrument USTER^®LVI 930 was adopted to characterize the proportion of hooked fibers. Combined with the quality test, the feasibility of this method was explored by comparing the data of the two.

Results Based on the tracer fiber method, viscose fiber with similar properties to raw cotton was used as tracer fiber. In this study, one thousandth tracer fiber is mixed into the cotton fiber. The processed cotton yarn, including card sliver, semi-drawn sliver, drawn sliver, roving and yarn, were tested by tracer fiber method first. The leading hooked fiber, the trailing hooked fiber and the both ends hooked fibers are counted as the hooked fiber ratio in the cotton yarn, that is, the hook index N_TF. Then, the above-mentioned cotton yarn was tested by the instrument USTER^®LVI 930, and the fiber length distribution at the front and back ends intervals of 3.175 mm was obtained. The length difference between the front and back ends was believed to be caused by hooked fibers. Therefore, the fiber length distribution was transformed into the fiber mass distribution. Then, according to the difference between the fiber mass distribution of the front and back ends, the proportion of hooked fibers in cotton yarn, that is, the hook index N_MD, was calculated. By comparing the hook index N_MD of fiber mass distribution method and the hook index N_TF of tracer fiber method, it was that with the progress of spinning process, the fiber straightness increases and the hooked fiber decreases, and the hook index N_MD is closer to N_TF. Finally, the cotton yarn was tested for quality, which showed that the change trend of quality index and hook index was basically the same in the spinning process. Among them, a big gap is found in the hook index in the first drawing. This may be due to the fact that the length of the hook was related to the length of the fiber, and the longer fiber was easy to form a longer hook. The average length of tracer fiber was higher than the weighted half average length of raw cotton. In the process of sliver and drawing with low fiber straightness, the hook index N_TF of tracer fiber method was higher than that of fiber mass distribution method N_MD.

Conclusion By comparing the hook index and quality test in the two testing methods, the hook index of fiber weight distribution method can quickly characterize the hook in cotton yarn to some extent. For slivers, the hooks index calculated by the fiber mass distribution method proposed in the paper is generally within 6% error compared with the tracer fiber method. For roving and spun yarn, the difference is within 2%. The rapid batch acquisition of hook index N_MD is expected to optimize process parameters and improve carding effect in time, thus improving economic benefits and promoting the new development of high-quality textiles.

Preparation and performance of multi-color thermoplastic urethane/polyacrylonitrile nanofiber yarns

LIN Yuting, XU Shilin, HU Yi

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  78-86.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241201701

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Objective The processing and transformation of fibers often involve complex processes, which fail to meet specific functional and performance needs. Developing direct, green, and multifunctional nanofiber materials holds significant theoretical and practical value. Additionally, dyeing-related environmental pollution remains a major challenge in textile engineering. In order to address such issues, this study focuses on producing composite nanofiber yarns with excellent mechanical and hydrophilic properties by electrospinning, while achieving multi-color yarns through dope dyeing.

Method Thermoplastic urethane/polyacrylonitrile(TPU/PAN)nanofiber yarns were prepared by electrospinning, where two oppositely charged jets neutralized and aggregated at a funnel collector under electrostatic fields, then twisted into nanofiber yarns by rotation. In order to achieve better mechanical properties of the yarn, the spinning solution ratio and spinning process were optimized. The surface morphology was observed using SEM, and the breaking strength and elongation at break were tested using an electronic single yarn strength tester. The optimal parameters were then determined. The hydrophilic properties of the blended yarn were studied using video contact angle tonometry. Cationic dye was selected to prepare multi-color nanofiber yarns, and the color fastness test was conducted by using the anti-rubbing color fastness instrument and anti-wash color fastness testing machine.

Results Optimizations of spinning liquid ratio and spinning process were the focuses of this study to achieve high mechanical properties. PAN had excellent spinnability but poor mechanical properties, while TPU provided high strength and elasticity. The high mechanical properties nanofiber was prepared from the PAN and TPU mixed spinning solution. Increasing TPU content initially improved breaking force and elongation at break, but further increases reduced spinnability, decreasing mechanical strength. By controlling the ratio of PAN to TPU at 2∶1, the resulting nanofiber yarn exhibited optimal morphology with a smooth surface, uniform structure and high mechanical strength. For the spinning process, the continuity of the yarn preparation was found to decrease when the rotation speed of the funnel collector exceeded 180 r/min and the voltage of the high voltage generator exceeded 8 kV. Compared with commercial spandex yarns and commercial acrylic yarns, the blended yarns had excellent hydrophilicity. The water contact angle is tested to be 28.5° using a video contact angle tensiometer; and the capillary rise height is determined as 18 cm through the capillary effect. After soaking, the suspension of the yarns is maintained until the dripping time dropped below 30 s and the liquid retention rate is calculated as 489.2%. Cationic dyes were added to the spinning solution for in-solution dyeing, which enabled the production of multicolored TPU/PAN yarns, then the yarns are woven into multicolored fabric using a loom. DFT calculations showed that the cyano groups(—C≡N) and amide groups(—CO—NH—) in the blended yarn have strong electrostatic adsorption with the cationic dye, leading to higher binding energy and improved color fastness of the multicolored nanofibers. The yarns showed minimal color transfer to the rubbing cloth, indicating excellent rubbing resistance. Then the color fastness of soap washing was tested. After soaping the TPU/PAN mixed fabric in soap liquid at 40 ℃ for 30 min, the color of the fabric sample did not change much, showing the color fastness was great.

Conclusion This study utilizes PAN and TPU to create oriented nanofiber yarns by electrospinning, exploring the influence of solution composition, voltage, and collection speed on yarn production. Optimal conditions are TPU to PAN ratio of 1∶2, voltage of 8 kV, and collection speed of 180 r/min, resulting in improved mechanical strength and hydrophilic properties of the blended nanofiber yarns. Cationic dyes in the spinning solution allow colored yarns with excellent colorfastness through electrospinning. Density functional theory calculations analyze polymer-dye interactions. Utilizing a loom, an array of vibrantly colored fabric samples are intricately woven,so as to enrich the function and color of nanofibers.

Influence of core types on performance of conductive core-spun yarn prepared from polyacrylonitrile nanofibers

JIA Chennuowa, ZHANG Yong, ZHU Weiyan, LIU Sai, TANG Ning

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  87-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240903701

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Objective The advent of intelligent wearable products has given rise to novel demands for conductive yarns, wherein high flexibility and remarkable adaptability to the human body are indispensable attributes. Flexible textile circuit made of metal wire ensures reliable electrical conduction but faces challenges in terms of wearing comfort and processability. The aim of this research is to prepare an innovative conductive nanofiber core-spun yarn with superior textile properties, and to investigate the influence of core yarn types on the performance of conductive nanofiber core-spun yarns.

Method A homemade electrostatic spinning device was established for continuous preparation of nanofiber core-spun yarns. During the preparing process, three conventional yarns including polyester yarn, aramid yarn, and polyester-cotton blended yarn were selected as the core yarn, and polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers were enwrapped on the core yarn through electrospinning. As such, the nanofiber core-spun yarn possessed both high specific surface area of nanofibers and robust mechanical properties of conventional yarn. The conductive nanofiber core-spun yarn with surface supported polypyrrole (PPy) was successfully prepared by further in-situ polymerization of pyrrole. The morphologies, mechanical properties and electrical properties of PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarns were analyzed and characterized. Finally, the PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarns was wrapped on polyurethane yarns and then subjected to 2 000 cycles of stretch deformation at 10% strain to further study the long-term stability under repetitive strain cycles.

Results The morphology of the core yarn was found to have a significant influence on the morphology of the conductive nanofiber core-spun yarn. A lower level of hairiness and stiffness of the core yarn resulted in a superior fit with the nanofibers. In comparison with that of aramid and polyester-cotton blended yarn, nanofibers enwrapped most suitable on polyester core yarn. Especially, the arrangement and orientation of the nanofibers were more superior with polyester as the core yarn. The increased hairiness of the core yarn, however, brought about a notable enhancement in the weight-gain rate of the conductive nanofiber core-spun yarn. Compared with that of conductive PPy/PAN nanofiber/polyester core-spun yarn having 39.29% weight-gain rate, the weight-gain rates of the conductive PPy/PAN nanofiber/aramid core-spun yarn and the conductive PPy/PAN nanofiber/polyester-cotton core-spun yarn were 53.49% and 52.63% respectively. The yarn with polyester core exhibited obvious uniformity and aesthetic appeal after enwrapped with PAN nanofibers, which could be attributed to the significant decrease of the hairiness. The mechanical properties of the core yarn had a decisive effect on the mechanical properties of the conductive nanofiber core-spun yarn, while enwrapping nanofibers loaded with PPy could further enhanced the yarn's breaking strength and elongation at break. Compared with that of the core yarn covered with PPy directly, the electrical properties of the conductive PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarns were significantly improved. The conductivity of the PPy/PAN nanofiber/polyester-cotton core-spun yarn reached 293.39 mS/cm, which was 9.4 times higher than that of polyester yarn covered with PPy directly. The PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarn was further wrapped around the polyurethane yarn and subjected to 2 000 cycles of stretch deformation at 10% strain. Its electrical signal response demonstrated stability, suggesting good consistent electro-mechanical properties and durability over multiple cycles.

Conclusion The morphologies, mechanical properties and electrical properties of PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarns are closely related to the core yarn type. In order to obtain high-strength yarns, it is recommended to selecting aramid yarn as the core material. Polyester yarn may be selected for the purpose of enhancing the elongation at break. Polyester-cotten blended yarn can be employed as the core yarn to improve the conductivity of PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarn. The present work can be adopted to further develop conductive PPy/PAN nanofiber core-spun yarns into different core yarn types, which can be widely used in various fields such as sensors, signal transmission, and interactive textiles. This kind of conductive yarns also has a promising future in the application of flexible and wearable smart devices.

Preparation of MXene-coated cotton/spandex conductive core yarn and its sensing properties

JIA Lu, ZHOU Suqin, GUO Longcan, LIU Shuqiang, ZHANG Yu

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  96-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240903401

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Objective The ideal yarn sensor is both conductive and elastic. The bonding between the conductive layer and the elastic polymer fiber is usually weak, and after repeated stretching, the reduced bonding between the conductive material and the polymer matrix and the detachment of the conductive layer will seriously affect its sensing performance. Therefore, how to improve the bonding fastness of the conductive layer and the yarn is one of the challenges in ensuring the sensing stability.

Method Cotton fibers with good hydrophilicity and spandex with elasticity were blended to prepare core yarns with different levels of twists, then the cotton/spandex core yarns were modified with 3-(aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, and MXene-coated conductive cotton/spandex yarns were prepared by coating MXene using the dip-rolling method. The morphology and structure of the conductive core yarns were characterized, and their mechanical properties, electrical conductivity and tension sensing properties were investigated.

Results Cotton fiber was used as the sheath and spandex as the core to prepare the cotton/spandex core yarns with different twist levels. The characterizations by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, Raman spectroscopy and water washing resistance showed that 3-(aminopropyl)triethoxysilane successfully modified cotton fibers by amination, and MXene was mainly grafted onto the surface of cotton fibers by chemical bonding. SEM images showed that the diameter of the core yarn was 0.7-0.8 mm, which also proved that MXene coated the cotton fibers to form a dense conductive layer. The chemical bonding between MXene and the cotton fibers resulted in a certain enhancement of the yarn breaking strength, and the strength of the MXene-coated cotton/spandex core yarns gradually increased as the yarn twist icreased. In addition, the MXene coating of the yarns also endowed good conductive properties to the yarns. As the twist of the core yarns was increased, the electrical resistance demonstrated a gradual decrease, with a minimum resistance of 54 kΩ. The strain-relative resistance change curve of MXene-coated cotton/spandex core yarns with a twist of 133 twists/(10 cm) showed linear sensing with a linearity of 0.996, a sensitivity of 28.1, and the sensing stability is good. The obtained sensing yarns were attached to the joints of fingers, elbows and knees for motion monitoring, and the R/R₀ values fluctuated stably between 0.1 and 1.7, indicating that they can be used for monitoring the trajectory and amplitude of limb movements.

Conclusion Hydrophilic cotton fibers with good hydrophilicity and spandex with elasticity were adopted to prepare core yarns, and MXene was encapsulated within cotton/spandex core yarns by dip-rolling with yarn modification technology to obtain MXene-coated cotton/spandex core yarns. MXene and modified cotton fibers produced stable chemical bonding. When the yarn twist is 133 twists/(10 cm), the mechanical properties and electrical conductivity of the MXene-coated cotton/spandex core yarn are better. The above core yarn shows good sensing properties and can be used for monitoring movements such as fingers, elbows and knees. The study of MXene-coated cotton/spandex core yarn provides a new idea for the study of sensing yarn and sensing fabric based on natural fibers.

Damage analysis and finite element simulation of wool yarn in warping

HAN Zhihui, WAN Ailan, HONG Liang, GAO Lizhong, XIA Fenglin

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  103-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240705501

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Objective In order to study the damage of wool yarn in the process of warping for warp knitted fabrics, the study focused on the warping tension and the influence of machine parts on the hairiness index and mechanical properties of wool yarn, using the yarn leasing reed as an example, aiming to understand the damage of wool yarn during warping and provide insights for the utilization of wool yarn.

Methods Three types of compact Siro-spun yarns prepared from wool, cashmere, and nylon staple fibers were selected. The warping machine served as the experimental platform for sampling, testing, and analysis. The mechanical properties and hairiness index of the three types of yarns were tested before and after warping. A mathematical model was developed to analyze and predict the influence of warping tension on yarn performance based on the relationship between tension, yarn strength loss, and mass loss. The damage to wool yarn caused by warping tension, reed, and KFD yarn tension compensation brake was simulated and validated using finite element modeling.

Results Three types of wool yarn were tested after warping on the warping machine. These included yarn A (70% wool and 30% polyamide, 16.7 tex), yarn B (60% wool, 30% polyamide and 10% cashmere, 16.7 tex), and yarn C (60% wool, 30% polyamide and 10% cashmere, 12.5 tex) which were subjected to tight Siro spinning. The study revealed that the mechanical properties and hairiness index of the yarn were influenced by the friction between the reed of the warping machine and the yarn. Yarns A, B, and C experienced a decrease in strength by 12.0%, 10.7% and 8.2%, respectively. Additionally, due to shedding and the generation of new hairiness during continuous friction with the reed, the hairiness index fluctuated, leading to an overall weight decrease. During the warping process, if the yarn warping tension exceeded 30 cN and the elongation surpassed 0.8%, warping failure could occur due to hairiness aggregation, yarn entanglement and other factors. At the same time, the relationship between yarn strength, mass, and warping tension adhered to asymptotic, Boltzmann, and other mathematical models. Based on the model curve, it was deduced that when the warping tension was 20 cN and the warping speed was 300 m/min, the tension roller hole selection should be the second hole position; or when the warping speed was 400 m/min, the tension roller hole selection should be the first hole position. Under these conditions of warping tension and speed, both warping efficiency and quality could be guaranteed. By establishing the equivalent model of wool yarn, the finite element method was utilized to simulate the warping process and further investigate the damage of wool yarn. The simulation results were compared with the actual scenario to replicate the morphological changes of the yarn during warping and confirm the warping of the yarn under various tension and elongation conditions. This study provided a valuable experimental and theoretical foundation for examining short fiber yarn for warp knitting and exploring yarn damage during the warping process.

Conclusion The relationship between mechanical properties and hairiness index was established. According to the mathematical model, when the warping tension was 20 cN and the warping speed was 300 m/min, the tension roller hole selection was the second hole position, or when the warping speed was 400 m/min, the tension roller hole selection was the first hole position. Under these conditions, the weight loss and strength loss were kept minimal. By comparing the finite element modeling with test data, it was deduced that warping would be hindered when the warping tension exceeded 30 cN and the elongation surpassed 0.8% due to hairiness aggregation, yarn entanglement and the like. the like This method allowed for the preliminary screening of warping yarn, offering a theoretical foundation for the warping process.

Evaluation of wear performance of natural silk/spandex medical compression sleeves

ZHANG Yifei, WAN Yue, JI Ruoyun, FU Shaoju, WANG Lu, GUAN Guoping

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  111-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240900201

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Objective Medical compression garments have been widely used in adjunctive treatment of post-burn scars, lymphedema, and lipedema. With advancements in treatment methods and technology, the research focus has shifted toward improving comfort of the garments while ensuring necessary therapeutic pressure. Enhancing comfort is crucial for increasing patient compliance with medical compression garments, thereby improving treatment outcomes. This study aims to develop a seamless medical compression sleeve using natural silk/spandex covered yarns and to optimize the knitting parameters for improved mechanical properties and comfort level.

Method The seamless medical compression sleeves were fabricated using natural silk/spandex covered yarns, utilizing a plain stitch pad structure (pad ratio of 1∶3). Key knitting parameters, including the initial modulus of the pad yarn, the fineness of the ground yarn core yarn, and the yarn feeding tension, were adjusted to produce the sleeves. The mechanical properties of the compression sleeves were tested, and the optimal manufacturing parameters were selected. A comparative analysis was conducted with commercial products to assess the influence of these parameters on the comfort and garment pressure of the compression sleeves.

Results The results revealed that the fabricated samples exhibited a high elastic recovery rate 87%, a low stress relaxation rate 8%, and excellent fatigue resistance, indicating superior mechanical properties. In terms of comfort, sample 17 demonstrated remarkable permeability, with a value of (371.89±18.80) L/(m²·s), significantly higher than the standard value. Sample 6 showed a comprehensive moisture management performance score of 4 points, categorizing it as very good. Furthermore, the anti-static performance of the samples was rated as good to excellent, ensuring that the sleeves do not accumulate static charge during wear, which enhances user comfort and safety. For garment pressure tests, the fabricated samples successfully met the varying compression requirements of medical compression garments, indicating their suitability for therapeutic use. These findings demonstrate that the optimized knitting parameters not only improve the mechanical performance of the compression sleeves but also significantly enhance their comfort. These findings demonstrate that while different samples excelled in specific aspects such as breathability and moisture man-agement by combining the optimal parameters from each, it is feasible to create a single compression sleeve that integrates these superior properties.

Conclusion This study highlights the importance of optimizing knitting parameters to develop medical compression garments that combine therapeutic efficacy with superior comfort. The natural silk/spandex covered yarns are employed to produce compression sleeves that meet the necessary mechanical requirements while offering enhanced permeability, moisture management, and anti-static performance. These properties are critical for improving patient compliance, as comfortable compression garments are more likely to be worn consistently, thereby enhancing the overall effectiveness of the treatment. The successful comparison with commercial products suggests that the developed sleeves could be a promising alternative to available medical compression garments, with wide potential applications in the treatment of various conditions requiring compression therapy. Further research could explore the long-term durability and patient feedback to refine the design and ensure its practical utility in clinical settings.

Digital design and three-dimensional simulation of warp and weft knitted combined fabrics

GU Wenmin, JIANG Gaoming, ZHAO Junjie, LI Bingxian

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  119-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240705601

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Objective Due to the complexity and variability of the loop geometry and its arrangement in the fabric, the digital design and simulation of fabrics produced by combining warp-and weft-knitting encounter great challenges. Therefore, it is urgent to establish a scientific and complete mathematical model so as to describe the key information such as pattern, yarn color and loop type of warp-knitted and weft-knitted combined fabrics.

Method As the first step, various matrix models were established, with the values of matrix elements representing different types of loop combinations, yarn colors and warp knitting loop types. According to the geometric characteristics of the warp and weft knitted loops, a three-dimensional model of the loops was established, and the positions of the loops were adjusted according to the pattern matrix information. Consequently, the digital design and simulation of warp and weft knitted fabrics were achieved by using iTDS system.

Results In order to facilitate the precise simulation of warp and weft knitted fabrics, a comprehensive mathematical modeling methodology was innovatively designed. The first step involved the establishment of a matrix representation model of the pattern map, which maps a variety of loop combinations through careful encoding of matrix elements, effectively differentiates different types of warp and weft knitted fabric structures and lays a foundation for the digital representation of complex textures. Furthermore, the color attribute matrix model of warp and weft-knitted yarns was developed, which not only records the color information of a single yarn, but also systematically captures the distribution and change trend of color in the fabric structure, enhancing the visual reality of the simulation results. On top of this, the innovative point of this research was the proposal of a loop type matrix model, which deeply analyzes the different arrangement logic of warp knitted loops on both sides of the fabric, and greatly improves the model's ability to reproduce the complex structure of the actual fabric by precisely defining the spatial configuration rules of each type of loops. Based on the solid framework of the matrix model, a three-dimensional geometric model of the loop was further established, which comprehensively considers the unique geometric features of the warp and weft knitted loops. Through algorithm optimization, the model was enabled to dynamically adjust the coordinate layout of the value points of the loop according to the specific instructions of the pattern matrix, so as to accurately reproduce the micro and macro structural characteristics of the warp and weft knitted fabric in the digital space. Experimental verification results show that the model system constructed in this study not only successfully describes the complex geometric structure of warp-knitted and weft-knitted fabrics, but also achieves a high degree of fidelity in the visual simulation level.

Conclusion This study deepens the understanding of the structure and knitting principle of the warp-knitting and weft-knitting combination, builds a special three-dimensional simulation model, and provides theoretical support and technical guarantee for the industrial production of the warp-knitting and weft-knitting combination. The knitting principle of the combined warp and weft-knitting is elaborated, and the matrix model of yarn color and loop type is constructed. Through the accurate description of the front and back arrangement of the warp knitting loops of different paths, key parameter input is provided for the establishment of the three-dimensional model of the warp-knitted and weft-knitted loops. Based on the geometric characteristics of warp-knitted and weft-knitted knitted loop modes, a three-dimensional model was established, and the position of loop values was adjusted by combining the pattern matrix information, so as to realize the digital design and three-dimensional simulation of warp and weft knitted fabrics. The simulation results show that the proposed mathematical model can effectively describe the combined structure of the fabric, which provides an important theoretical support for the subsequent fabric design and process optimization.

Tensile properties of three-dimensional woven T-joint composites

ZHANG Yifan, AN Liuxu, YAN Yingjie, ZOU Qi, LIU Xiaozhi, GUO Junhua, CHEN Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  128-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241004101

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Objective At present, most three-dimensional woven T-shaped prefabricated bodies are prepared by weaving the flat fabric first, splicing, stitching, or unfolding the fabric in layers. The overall forming weaving method of the prefabricated body and the structural optimization design method of the prefabricated body junction are not ideal for studying the tensile properties of the T-joint of a three-dimensional woven composite material. The influence of the yarn interweaving mode and the composite material structure at the connection of the vertical rib and bottom plate on its tensile properties, failure mode, and damage mechanism were analyzed. The macroscopic mechanical properties of T-joints of various three-dimensional woven composites were analyzed by experimental tests, which provided a reference for the structural design of T-joint composites.

Method T-joint composites with different structures and connection modes were designed, and prefabricated composite molding was carried out by resin transfer molding (RTM) process. Tensile experiments were carried out, and the full-field strain was analyzed using a non-contact full-field strain measurement system (DIC). The failure mechanism and the influence of different structures and connection modes on the tensile properties of the T-joint composites were analyzed.

Results For the three-dimensional layer woven composite T-joint, the interweaving mode of the weft yarn at the connection of the vertical rib and the bottom plate had a certain influence on the tensile strength of the composite material, and the average tensile strength of the two was not much different, but the sample using the cross connection mode was slightly higher than the sample using the forked connection mode, when the sample was introduced into the bottom plate by forked connection mode, the tensile strength and failure displacement of the composite material were smaller, and the final damage degree and range of the sample were larger, and the bearing capacity was completely lost, which was a catastrophic failure. When the sample adopts the weft connection mode of left and right crossing, the weft introduced by the cross can resist the shear effect generated by the tensile load at the connection, which can effectively limit the expansion of the damage to the inside of the specimen, the ultimate stress of the sample was increased by more than 10%, the damage range of the sample was small, the tensile capacity was strong, and the cross structure at the connection between the vertical rid and the bottom plate could effectively improve the tensile property of the composite T-joint. For the composite T-joints with different structures, compared with the three-dimensional layer woven structure, the tensile strength of the composite sample with multilayer multiaxial structure was increased by 98.46%, because the yarn directly bearing the tensile load in the multilayer multiaxial woven structure was only the weft, with the increase of tensile displacement, the matrix cracks, the weft yarn was gradually pulled off, the structure loses its bearing capacity, and the sample finally fails, while the multi-layer multi-directional structure rib and bottom plate contain ±45° oblique yarn. The yarns in different directions played a role in dispersing and buffering the load during the load loading process, and the composite T-joint with multilayer multiaxial structure could effectively alleviate the stress concentration phenomenon in the connection area between the vertical rib and the bottom plate, thereby significantly improving the tensile property of the T-joint.

Conclusion The sample with cross-joints showed better tensile properties during the tensile process, and the cross-introduced weft yarns could resist the shear effect of the tensile load at the joints, which could effectively limit the damage extension to the interior of the samples. For the comparison of the tensile properties of the samples with different structures, the tensile strength of the multilayer multiaxial composite T-joint structure was greatly improved compared with that of the layered interlock woven structure, and the introduction of ±45° diagonal yarns improved the stress distribution of the sample at the joints, which greatly improved the tensile properties of the composite T-joints, and provided references for the application of the composite T-joints in the future.

Modeling and simulation of waste cotton fabric shredding process

WANG Zihan, LI Yong, CHEN Xiaochuan, WANG Jun, LIANG Lingjie

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  136-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240401101

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Objective In order to study the force change of fibers in the process of mechanical recycling of waste textiles and to improve the recycling efficiency, a mesoscopic model composed of fiber assemblies is established on the basis of the existing macroscopic model of woven fabrics. The twist parameter is added to this mesoscopic model and the influence of twist on elastic modulus is considered.

Method Abaqus was adopted to simulate the shredding process of the macroscopic model and the mesoscopic model, and a relevant experiment was designed to validate the accuracy of the models. The force of the sawtooth shredder at different rotational speeds and yarns with different twists were taken into consideration.

Results From the simulation results of the two models, it was observed that as the rotational speed of the sawtooth shredder decreased, the force exerted by the sawtooth shredder became smaller. It was found that the shredder force provided at a speed of 40 rad/s, and the cotton fabric was not be ripped up due to the low speed, indicating that that a suitably high speed should be selected in practical production. From the above finite element analysis, it was learnt that the force characteristics of the two models are basically the same, but the force values of the mesoscopic model are lower than those of the macroscopic model, which may be due to the fact that the material parameters of the yarn and fiber assembly are not fully mapped in the mesoscopic mode. In order to map the characteristic of yarn twist in the macroscopic model, the levels of yarn twist in the mesoscopic model were taken into consideration to study the influence of twist variation on the shredding process, of which twist levels of 60, 70 and 80 twist/(10 cm) were considered in the analysis. The results demonstrated that the change in twist affected the elastic modulus of yarns in the mesoscopic model. From the simulation analysis results, it was seen that the force on the sawtooth shredder of the mesoscopic model is the smallest when the yarn twist was assumed to be 60 twist/(10 cm). The relationship between the yarn twist level and the maximum force offered by the sawtooth shredder exhibited positive correlation.

Conclusion The mesoscopic model composed of fiber assemblies was established on the basis of the macroscopic model. Combined with Abaqus software, the finite element simulation of the shredding process of waste cotton cloth was carried out for two models. By simulating the influences of different sawtooth shedder speeds on the shredding process, it was learnt that the speed should not be lower than 573 r/min (60 rad/s) so as to provide the lowest shredding force. Between 60 twist/(10 cm) and 80 twist/(10 cm), the maximum force on the sawtooth shredder decreases as the twist decreases. The macroscopic model was found difficult to represent the force characteristics of the fibers and the way they move, and the mesoscopic model was established to refine the structure of the macroscopic model and can describe the variation of twist. Suitable mesh sizes and simple contacts between yarns were adopted to reduce the computational cost of the simulation.

Dyeing and Finishing Engineering

Color transfer method for fabric patterns based on trending colors

WANG Jianhui, ZHANG Huaxiong, JIN Yao, LIU Zhi

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  144-153.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241105601

Abstract ( 134 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (19474KB) ( 67 )   Save

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Objective In order to solve problems of the inefficiencies, high costs, and limited variety in conventional handmade fabric pattern color designs, which are worsened by the frequent shifts in seasonal fashion colors, an efficient, intelligent color-transfer method for fabric patterns is introduced, based on the latest fashion color trends. By closely following fashion color trends, it aims to keep textile and apparel products visually appealing and appealing to consumers. Ultimately, this approach can minimize waste from color-related obsolescence and help the industry quickly adapt to market changes.

Method A comprehensive and trend-responsive color palette was developed by integrating fashion color trends, color theory principles, and the unique color attributes of fabric patterns. Using the K-means clustering algorithm, a dataset of fabric patterns incorporating popular color palettes was established. In order to refine the color transfer model, an edge-preserving loss function and a color perception loss function were introduced. This enhanced the ability of the model to capture intricate texture details while maintaining color authenticity. Additionally, salt-and-pepper noise during the model training phase was incorporated to enhance the overall robustness of the model.

Results A well-designed survey with 40 participants was conducted to compare two different color palettes in detail. One palette incorporated complex features of fabric patterns, while the other served as a control without these elements. Participants were asked to select their preferred palette based on various factors such as overall fabric design, pattern complexity, and color harmony. This evaluation, based on a diverse set of 90 test samples, ensured the comprehensiveness of the assessment. The results showed that the palette incorporating fabric pattern features received overwhelming positive feedback, with 2 425 votes (67.36% of the total), significantly outperforming the conventional palette and highlighting the strong appeal of fabric-inspired designs. Furthermore, the proposed color transfer model demonstrated excellent performance metrics. Specifically, it achieved a structural similarity index (s) of 0.911, indicating high visual fidelity between the original and transferred images. Additionally, the peak signal-to-noise ratio (p) reached 29.714, further confirming the model's ability to maintain image quality during the color transfer process. Compared to other conventional color transfer methods that perform well.It outperformed Neural Preset (p=28.295,s=0.894) and AdaIN (s=0.857), These results validate its strengths in maintaining color authenticity and structural fidelity for floral pattern adaptation.

In order to verify the contributions of the introduced salt-and-pepper noise, edge loss, and color perception loss to optimizing the color transfer model, ablation experiments were conducted. Compared to the baseline (p=27.596, s=0.806), introducing color perception loss alone (p=28.621, s=0.892) improved color accuracy by 3.7% in p and 10.7% in s, demonstrating superior sensitivity to subtle hue variations. Edge loss achieved an SSIM of 0.844 (4.7% gain), effectively preserving structural details, while salt-and-pepper noise enhanced robustness with a 0.9% p increase (27.835). The integrated model combining all components achieved optimal performance (p=29.714, s=0.911). The results indicated that the introduction of the color perception loss function significantly improved the model's sensitivity to subtle color changes, resulting in more precise and accurate matching of target fashion colors. Thirdly, the edge-preserving loss function played a crucial role in mitigating edge blurring and detail loss during the color transfer process, ensuring that the resulting patterns maintained clear outlines and rich details. Finally, incorporating salt-and-pepper noise during the training phase enhanced the model's robustness to fluctuations in image quality, simulating real-world disturbances that may occur during image transmission or storage. This enhancement allowed the model to accurately distinguish between true structures and noise, ultimately generating more stable and visually appealing images.

Conclusion The proposed fabric pattern color transfer method based on popular colors significantly improves design efficiency and enriches the diversity of fabric patterns while effectively reducing production costs through intelligent means. The feasibility and effectiveness of this method have been verified through empirical experiments. The proposed color transfer method provides an efficient solution for the intelligent design of fabric patterns, accelerating the digital transformation of the textile and apparel industry. Furthermore, by applying the color transfer technology to the fusion design of popular colors and fabric patterns, it not only meet the market's demand for diversification and personalization but also further respond to the initiative of sustainable development. This approach helps reduce dependence on new materials, aligns with the principles of a circular economy, and provides a more sustainable solution for the textile industry. Ultimately, the research lays the foundation for achieving textile designs that are both environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing, making a positive contribution to promoting a sustainable, innovative, and vibrant fashion industry.

Influence of contact pre-drying on pre-drying efficiency and color difference in open-width dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics

ZHANG Huandong, JI Bolin, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  154-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250202201

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Objective In open-width continuous dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics, uncontrollable dye migration is a common issue due to the contact pre-drying technique, consequently leading to a significant color difference (ΔE). In order to solve this issue and promote the wide applications of this dyeing method, the pre-drying process parameters were investigated on the determination of the optimal pre-drying conditions with a small ΔE.

Method The influences of pre-drying temperature, inorganic salt concentration, dye concentration and dye type on the pre-drying efficiency of fabrics were investigated, and the optimal pre-drying conditions were determined. Thereafter, the influences of single-side/double-side contact of fabrics with heat source and hot air on the ΔE of the dyed fabrics were further explored. Consequently, pilot experiments were carried out in the factory based on the results of laboratory experiments.

Results The results showed that the optimal pre-drying temperature was 70 ℃, and the concentration of sodium sulfate was 50 g/L. Sodium sulfate demonstrated a water-retenting effect, which is conducive to reducing the dye migration. Among the selected dyes, the dye concentration and dye type showed no effect on the pre-drying efficiency. When the dye concentration was 10-50 g/L, with or without hot air assistance, the process of double-side contact of fabrics with the heat source was conducive to reducing the ΔE of dyed fabrics. When the dye concentration is 10 or 20 g/L, the hot air flow during pre-drying was conducive to decreasing the fabric color difference. However, when the dye concentration was increased to 30-50 g/L, the hot air flow led to increase of the fabric color difference. In the pilot experiment in the factory, three different pre-drying conditions can be employed for the fabric to obtain a liquid carrying rate of 30%, i.e. 70 ℃ and 8 m/min, 80 ℃ and 10 m/min, and 90 ℃ and 15 m/min. Under these conditions, the fabric ΔE was smaller than 1, meeting the requirements of the actual production.

Conclusion It can be concluded that 70 ℃ is the suitable pre-drying temperature at which sodium sulfate demonstrated a water-retaining effect, which reduces the pre-drying efficiency of fabrics; and that dye concentration/dye type has no effect on the pre-drying efficiency. Double-side contact of fabrics with the heat source reduces the ΔE between the front and back sides of the dyed fabrics. When the dye concentration is 10 g/L or 20 g/L, the hot air assistance reduces the ΔE between the front and back sides of the dyed fabrics. However, when the dye concentration is 30-50 g/L, the hot air assistance increases the ΔE between the front and back sides of the dyed fabrics. In the pilot experiments, the ΔE of the dyed fabrics at 70, 80, or 90 ℃ increases when the fabrics meet the requirement of 30% moisture content, but it is still smaller than 1.

Preparation and performance evaluation of dual-mode thermal management functional textiles

CHEN Tingbin, JIANG Xin, MAO Haili, WANG Chengcheng, ZHANG Liping

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  160-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241006401

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Objective Textile-based personal thermal management systems have emerged as a effective alternative to the conventional technologies for environmental temperature control. Current thermal management textiles primarily focus on cooling or heating functions. However, the dynamic and unpredictable nature of ambient temperature fluctuations necessitates a more flexible approach. Unidirectional thermal regulation methods often fail to meet the complex thermal needs of the human body around the clock. In order to address this challenge, a novel dual-mode thermal management fabric with a three-layer structure is proposed, aiming to overcome the limitations of existing unidirectional thermal management fabrics.

Method This sandwich structured dual-mode thermal management fabric was fabricated by coating one side of a cotton fabric with a mixture solution of polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) and titanium dioxide (TiO₂) nano particles to serve as the cooling side, while a novel two-dimensional MXene material, Ti₃C₂T_x, was sprayed onto the other side of the cotton fabric to act as the heating side. The apparent morphology, cooling and heating performance, and underlying mechanisms of this dual-mode thermal management fabric were investigated and analyzed.

Results The results demonstrated that the PVDF-TiO₂/C/Mxene dual-mode thermal management fabric (PTCM) possessed a dual-sided characteristic (with the cooling side being white and the heating side being black), and its radiative cooling side exhibited excellent cooling performance. After conducting temperature tests with a specially constructed testing apparatus in a sunny outdoor environment during summer, it was found that the average temperature on the cooling side of PTCM was 3.9 ℃ lower than that of ordinary cotton fabric. Meanwhile, when tested with the same apparatus in a sunny outdoor environment during spring, the average temperature on the heating side was 11.8 ℃ higher. In terms of electrothermal response and conversion capability, PTCM showed rapid temperature stabilization and efficient heat dissipation. At different test voltages, PTCM reached a stable temperature within 0.5 min and returned to room temperature within 2 min after power-off. At a voltage of 5 V, the stable temperature of PTCM could rise to approximately 60 ℃. In cyclic step-up voltage tests at 2, 3, and 4 V, PTCM reached the same temperature at each voltage level, with highly consistent temperature rise curves. This result demonstrated the excellent Joule heating stability of PTCM at different voltages, which is crucial for maintaining stable performance and extending service life in complex environments. Furthermore, under continuous step-up voltage conditions, when the voltage exceeded 3 V, the temperature of PTCM increased by an average of 10 ℃ for every 1 V increase, indicating that the PTCM has a wide range of temperature change with controllable, sensitive electrothermal conversion capability, that provides flexible thermal compensation for textiles and enhancing wearer comfort. Under summer clear sky conditions, the cooling or heating mode can be switched by flipping the dual-mode thermal management fabric. Observation with a thermal infrared imager revealed that the temperature on the cooling side was 0.9 ℃ lower than that of original cotton fabric, whereas the temperature on the heating side was 5.1 ℃ higher. These results confirm that the dual-mode thermal management fabric integrates radiative cooling and heating functions, effectively addressing the dynamic and unpredictable changes in ambient temperature.

Conclusion The dual-mode fabric PTCM exhibits significant thermal management capabilities, achieving an average cooling effect of 3.9 ℃ under summer sunlight and an average heating effect of 11.8 ℃ under spring sunlight. Moreover, driven by a 6 V voltage, PTCM can self-heat up to 80 ℃. In outdoor thermal infrared imaging tests conducted on sunny summer day, the cooling side temperature of PTCM was 0.9 ℃ lower than that of traditional cotton fabric, while the heating side temperature was 5.1 ℃ higher. PTCM integrates radiative cooling and heating functions, effectively addressing the dynamic and unpredictable nature of ambient temperature changes. Given its multifunctional performance, PTCM has broad application prospects in various fields such as personal thermal management textiles, temperature-regulating car covers, and outdoor tents.

Preparation and anti-fogging properties of flexible porous superhydrophobic electrode

DING Yaru, ZHANG Haojie, LIU Rangtong, WANG Yifan, WANG Jingjing

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  169-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240800901

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Objective Inspired by the dew on the tips of grass, condensation on the surface of materials is a very common phenomenon in nature. However, the accumulation of droplets is mainly attributed to the hydrophobic and waterproof layer on the surface of the materials. Due to the heat loss during the condensation, condensation on the porous electrodes will still affect the electrical response stability of the electrode, even if the porous electrode has a hydrophobic coating. Therefore, the surface of porous electrode should not only have hydrophobic properties, but also be able to maintain durable hydrophobic properties in a humid environment (such as fog, dew, etc.).

Method The conductive layer of carbon black (CB) was loaded on porous polyurethane (PU) sponge by electrostatic layer self-assembly method. Firstly, the PU sponge was coated with polyethyleneimine (PEI), a positively charged polyelectrolyte. Because the CB had opposite charges on their surfaces, a chemical bond could form between CB and PEI through strong electrostatic attraction, allowing the CB to be stably coated onto the PU sponge. The above steps were repeated to complete the assembly process of multi-layer conductive CB to prepare CB/PU electrode. Then the sponge impregnated with OTMS solution was placed in an oven and heated at 70 ℃ for 3 h. Additionally, hydroxyl groups in the CB enabled their combination with OTMS via a silane coupling reaction.

Results The flexible porous electrode was coated with OTMS, showing its surface morphology, chemical groups, superhydrophobicity, pressure response properties, and the synergistic effect of superhydrophobicity, porous and temperature to resist infiltration of tiny droplets. Before CB conductive coating, the polyurethane sponge exhibited a smooth surface morphology. However, after coating with CB and OTMS, the sponge surface became rough. The CB and OTMS can be uniformly loaded on the polyurethane sponge, The chemical structure of the CB/OTMS was determined using FT-IR spectroscopy. After hydrophobization, the water contact angle increased to 152.5°, and the slip angle reached 6.2°, showing good superhydrophobic performance. OTMS coating has almost no effect on the conductivity of the CB/PU electrode, and the droplet accumulation on the OTMS/CB/PU electrode does not affect the electrical properties. As a pressure sensor, the flexible superhydrophobic porous electrode shows high sensitivity (103.18 kPa^-1), short response time (60 ms), and good response stability. Although the droplets aggregation on the flexible porous superhydrophobic electrode does not affect its electrochemical stability, the continuous spraying of droplets will interfere the electrical signal response. Based on the electrical signal response during the intermittent spraying process, it is inferred that the temperature of the droplet may be the main cause of the electrical signal response. In order to reduce the influence of the temperature of the droplets on the electrode, an external 20 V constant-voltage DC source was applied to heat the flexible porous superhydrophobic electrode at about 50 ℃. When the electrode is maintained at 50 ℃, it can compensate for the heat loss caused by the droplet spraying, and finally achieves the accurate pressure response behavior of the electrode material within 600 s. The surface of porous material treated by OTMS can achieve effective droplet aggregation, and temperature compensation can balance the temperature loss caused by droplet spray. Furthermore, the superhydrophobic stability of the porous electrode surface is maintained.

Conclusion The prepared flexible porous superhydrophobic electrode has excellent pressure response performance and anti-fogging performance. The long chain alkyl of OTMS has low surface energy, which can give the porous electrode superhydrophobic properties. In addition, electric heating is beneficial to the long alkyl chain extension of OTMS, and pores on the surface of electrode can provide a large number of sites for the condensation, thus increasing the aggregation efficiency. Morever, electric heating can further prevent the liquid film from penetrating into the porous electrode. The results demonstrate that the OTMS porous electrode has excellent superhydrophobicity and anti-wetting for fogs, and the flexible superhydrophobic porous electrode can be utilized to improve the environmental stability of pressure-responsive components.

Apparel Engineering

New prediction method for lower body circumferences for young male individuals

SONG Wei, LI Xinrong, FENG Wenqian, LI Xingxing, WEI Cong

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  177-185.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250106801

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Objective Anthropometric measurement is the primary step in garment production, where the lower body circumferences of the human body have high precision requirements and are difficult to measure. However, current prediction methods for lower body circumferences suffer from poor accuracy and limited applicability. Therefore, a highly accurate, convenient and rapid prediction method suitable for various circumferences required in trouser manufacturing is needed.

Method Five circumference measurements were considered for male youth aged 18 to 23, i.e. circumferences of waist, hip, thigh, knee and calf. By analyzing 176 manually collected samples in the training dataset, linear relationships among different parameters were identified. Prediction models were established based on these varying degrees of linear relationship different.

Results A data correlation analysis was conducted on various parts of the lower body required for trousers manufacturing, and the strength of the linear relationships between each part and the corresponding parameters was obtained. Based on the strong linear relationships between waist circumference, hip circumference, body weight, body mass index (BMI), width, and thickness, linear regression prediction models for waist and hip circumferences were established. Considering the strong linear relationships between thigh circumference, body weight, BMI, and the proportional coefficient K (height/weight ratio), a linear regression prediction model for thigh circumference was developed. In response to the insufficient fitting of the linear regression model for calf circumference and the weak linear relationships between knee circumference and various parameters, a method combining the random forest RF prediction model optimized by the whale optimization algorithm (WOA-RF) with the multiple linear regression prediction model was proposed. Hybrid prediction models for calf and knee circumferences were established respectively. Finally, the prediction models for each part and 44 samples were validated. A comparative discussion was carried out on the classified and unclassified body types for waist and hip circumferences, as well as the single prediction models and hybrid prediction models for calf and knee circumferences. The results showed that in the validation of waist and hip circumferences, the prediction accuracies of the unclassified method were 98.56% and 98.91%, respectively, higher than the results after classification by the width-to-thickness ratio. In the validation of thigh circumference, the prediction model achieved an accuracy of 97.80%. In the validation of calf and knee circumferences, the prediction accuracies of the hybrid model with the introduction of the proportional coefficient K were 97.89% and 97.80%, respectively, which were better than those of the single prediction model and the hybrid model without the introduction of the proportional coefficient K. The results meet the production requirements of garment enterprises.

Conclusion Taking the five circumference measurements required for customized male trousers in a garment enterprise as the main parameters, an adaptive circumference prediction method for each body part is proposed. This method can quickly predict the lower-body circumferences with a small amount of human body information. Compared with conventional methods, it has higher applicability and accuracy and can provide theoretical references for human body circumference prediction and two-dimensional non-contact anthropometric systems.

Drape index and structural analysis of horse-face skirts

YANG Zitian, WANG Shiqi, LEI Mengjie

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  186-192.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241002801

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Objective Current research on the horse-face skirts has primarily focused on craftsmanship, style, and fabrics, with limited attention to its wearing comfort. In order to provide a more intuitive understanding of the comfort associated with the horse-face skirts and to quantify the drape sensation caused by its complex structure and heavy fabric, this study introduces the concept of the "drape index" (defined as a metric reflecting the intensity of downward sagging during wearing). By establishing a mathematical model, the research further investigates the relationship between the design parameters of the horse-face skirts and the drape index, analyzing how the skirt's structure influences its drape sensation. This provides theoretical guidance for optimizing the design and improving the wearing comfort of the horse-face skirts.

Method The definition and calculation formula of the drape index were analyzed, and the definitions of the design parameters of the horse-face skirts and their regression relationships were listed. The area calculation formula for the horse-face skirts was proposed. A total of 900 experimental data sets on the structures of horse-face skirts were collected. Correlation analysis and multiple regression analysis were employed to establish a mathematical model between the structural design parameters of the horse-face skirt and the drape index, thereby analyzing the influence of the skirt structure on the drape sensation.

Results The drape index of the horse-face skirt was determined by its total area. Through the correlation analysis of the structural design parameters and the drape index, it was found that the Pearson correlation coefficient between skirt width and the drape index was 0.257, with a significance level of 0.183. This indicates that the change in skirt width has a minimal effect on the drape index, and no significant correlation exists between the two. This result may be related to the characteristics of the skirt width as a planar structural component of the skirt, which occupies a relatively small area and has a more uniform force distribution, thus having a limited impact on the overall drape sensation. The remaining four variables (skirt length, waist size, number of pleats, and pleat overlap) showed significant correlation with the drape index, which were used as independent variables to construct a linear model. According to the multiple linear regression analysis, the adjusted coefficient of determination for the model incorporating skirt length, waist size, number of pleats and pleat overlap reached 0.970, indicating these parameters collectively explain 97% of the variance in the drape index. Additionally, the Durbin-Watson statistic was 1.963, suggesting that the sample parameters of the horse-face skirt are independent and that there is no autocorrelation among them. The contribution rates of skirt length, waist size, number of pleats, and pleat volume to the drape index were 18.4%, 8.5%, 65.4% and 68.9%, respectively. Both pleat volume (68.9%) and number of pleats (65.4%) demonstrated particularly significant effects, while skirt length (18.4%) and waist size (8.5%) showed relatively minor impacts. This phenomenon may be attributed to how pleat volume directly affects the density of skirt folds and fabric stacking degree, thereby increasing the skirt's weight and drape sensation. The established mathematical formula confirmed that all four variables positively influence the drape sensation of the horse-face skirt, with pleat volume having the greatest effect. The regression coefficients provide quantitative guidance for adjusting structural design parameters, enabling an optimal balance between wearing comfort and aesthetic appeal.

Conclusion The proposed quantitative method for evaluating the weighted drape sensation of horse-face skirts offers theoretical guidance for the design of more comfortable versions of skirt and enriches the research on horse-face skirts. However, it only considers the influence of design parameters on the drape sensation. Future research is needed to explore the relationship between different styles of horse-face skirt structures and their drape sensations, as well as the influences of various fabrics and manufacturing techniques on the drape sensation.

Parameterized pattern generation of women's jumpsuit based on three-dimensional virtual model transformation

CHEN Xiaozhen, WU Ying, YANG Ye, LU Lihao

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  193-201.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240805001

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Objective With the rapid advancement of digital technology, the technology of automatic garment pattern generation is facing more tests and challenges. The method of two-dimensional parameter drawing is more accurate, more stable and less computational, but the operation process is lack of intuitive visualization, and the degree of integration of three-dimensional concepts is not enough, so it is difficult to achieve the effect of high fit for garment with high degree of fitting. Aiming at the problems such as misfit and poor fit, a method is put forward to automatically generate the pattern of fit trousers.

Method Focusing on women's jumpsuits, a method is established for the automatic generation of conjoined trouser patterns using the parameter constraint function of AutoCAD alongside three-dimensional design principles. Firstly, a three-dimensional human model is captured using a 3-D scanner, which is then transformed into an adjustable personalized virtual model using CLO3D. Subsequently, a parameterized constraint structure model of the jumpsuit is developed through AutoCAD's parameterization functions, enabling the rapid generation of customized one-piece trouser templates suitable for various body sizes.

Results CLO3D virtual modeling software is utilized to perform virtual stitching on garment patterns generated from three parametric structural models of jumpsuits. A comprehensive analysis was conducted, focusing on both the virtual aesthetic appearance and the pressure simulation during fitting to evaluate the comfort of the three groups of parametric samples. The results from the virtual fittings indicated that the personalized jumpsuits exhibited an appropriate level of looseness, with a smooth surface and no slack. The garment pressure maps showed that during standing, walking, and significant arm and leg movements, the pressure on all virtual garments remained between 0 kPa and 16 kPa, except in minor areas such as the knees and hips, where the garment experienced some pulling. When the model's arms and legs were raised, the pressure exerted by the garment on the human body at the measurement points for the three groups of personalized jumpsuits was generally below 5 kPa, which meets comfort requirements for human pressure distribution. Subsequently, the patterns generated based on the established parameters were produced in accordance with garment construction standards, followed by actual virtual fittings that allowed users to provide subjective feedback regarding their wearing experience. The results indicated that the ratings for all three samples were concentrated between 3.5 and 4.7, reflecting a positive try-on experience. However, the jumpsuit patterns generated using personalized parameters were found to be better aligned with user needs and preferences, resulting in a greater perception of comfort during wear. In conclusion, the parametric pattern generation method grounded in three-dimensional concepts effectively addresses fit and provides a refined solution for the complexities of garment fitting.

Conclusion The proposed automatic generation method for jumpsuit patterns effectively derives basic patterns from the surfaces of personalized virtual molds, fulfilling the demands for pattern visualization and customization. By adjusting user parameters, jumpsuit patterns with varying degrees of looseness can be generated automatically in accordance with specific constraints. The results demonstrate accuracy and efficacy in pattern generation. Unlike convenitional parametric programming, this approach enhances interactivity and simplicity, serving as a reference for developing parametric templates for a broader range of garment styles.

System design for human wearable nanogrid integrating solar energy and electromagnetic energy collection

WU Xueyang, XU Qicheng, SHAN Yinghao, LIN Xiaowu, LIU Chenming

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  202-208.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241204401

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Objective At present, energy sources for wearable systems relies on chemical batteries or external power sources, which can bring inconvenience to the design and operation of the whole system, such as low energy supply, inconvenient charging and a lack of autonomous power supply for long periods of time. However, collecting energy from the external environment and the human body's daily activities to power wearable devices is a very promising solution. A nanogrid power system that integrate human wearable solar and electromagnetic energy harvesting devices is developed, aiming to solve the problems of low energy supply, inconvenient charging and poor user experience in the current power supply of wearable devices.

Method By integrating a highly efficient foldable solar cell and electromagnetic energy harvesting device, a human wearable nanogrid system integrating solar and electromagnetic energy harvesting devices was developed with the energy management circuit using SY3511 chip. The solar panel is glued to the experimental suit, and the electromagnetic energy harvesting device is glued to the tester's waist. According to the weather forecast data, the outdoor environmental conditions during the test are as follows: the temperature is 16 ℃, the weather is sunny, the wind is gusty, and the maximum wind speed is 32 km/h. The experimenter wore a test suit with the nanogrid system, and the voltage of the energy storage lithium battery is adopted to reflect the level of energy collected by the system.

Results The solar panels in the outdoor sunny state was shown to be able to directly achieve a stable voltage output of about 4.4 V, with a particularly smooth voltage waveform. The charging current of the lithium battery is about 50 mA, and accordingly the solar energy harvesting device provided a power output of about 200 mW during the daytime when the light is normal. During the human body movement, the magnet of the electromagnetic energy harvesting device was found to pass through the closed loop normally, and the amplitude of the induced alternating current electric energy was about 5 V, with the frequency of about 10 Hz. The diode rectified voltage is about 4.1 V, and the electric energy generated after shaking the magnet charges the energy storage battery. When the lithium battery was discharged to 0.6 V, about 1.5 h of normal human outdoor activities were able to charge the lithium battery to 3.7 V through the self-powered system, enabling the lithium battery for electrical energy output. Both energy collection modules were able to charge the lithium battery, the lithium battery would be able to charge the wearable device under unfavored environmental conditions. The conditions of the outdoor environment at the time of the test were as follows: the temperature was 16 ℃, the weather was sunny, with gusty winds and a maximum wind speed of 32 km/h. The results of a long test under these conditions showed that it took about 2.5 h to charge the mobile phone from 20% to 50%. The experimental results concluded that the wearable nanogrid system was able to harvest solar energy and electromagnetic energy, which verifies the feasibility of the wearable nanogrid system, which could be used for development and applications in wearable smart textiles in the future.

Conclusion Two forms of energy harvesting, solar and electromagnetic harvesting, are carried out through solar panels and electromagnetic energy harvesting devices, and energy management circuits are designed based on SY3511 to store the harvesting energy into a lithium battery. The test of the whole energy harvesting system shows that the designed wearable nanogrid can achieve the harvesting, storage, and output of energy enabling stable charging of cell phones for a long time. The feasibility of the wearable nanogrid system is also verified, which is expected to contribute to the development and application of wearable smart textiles in the future.

Research and development and evaluation of pipeline ventilation service based on thermoelectric refrigeration technology

LIU Yinghui, ZHANG Zhaohua, YANG Yiwen

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  209-216.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250102101

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Objective Due to the increasing frequency and intensity of extreme hot weather, the indoor working environment temperature is high without using air conditioning, which will cause low work efficiency, physical discomfort and other problems. However, the cooling effect of conventional ventilation garment in high temperature environment is poor, and Fan-phase change material hybrid cooling clothing is not suitable for long working scenarios. In order to avoid high temperature hazards, improve the thermal comfort of the human body in high temperature environment, and reduce the building energy consumption, a pipeline thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment is developed.

Method Six subjects were selected to conduct human experiment in an environment with temperature of 35 ℃, relative humidity of 70%, and wind speed of (0.4±0.1) m/s. Objective physiological parameters (skin temperature, core temperature and heart rate) and subjective scores (thermal sensation, thermal comfort, wet sensation) were collected during the test to evaluate the comfort of the thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment. Thermal manikin experiment was carried out under the conditions of temperature (35±0.5) ℃, relative humidity (40±0.5)%, and wind speed (0.4±0.1) m/s to explore the cooling performance and energy saving potential of the thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment.

Results The results of the human dress test showed that the average skin temperature and back skin temperature of test group subjects were significantly lower than control group. The average skin temperature and back skin temperature decreased by 0.4 ℃ and 0.71 ℃, respectively, which showed that the thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment can have a cooling effect, and the back area was more obvious for direct ventilation. The ear canal temperature of test group subjects was significantly lower than control group, indicating that wearing the thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment will reduce the core temperature to some extent and reduce the risk of heat stress in high temperature and high humidity environment. No significant difference appeared in the heart rate, and the mean heart rate in both groups increased slowly over time and stabilized after 20 min. The scores of thermal sensation, thermal comfort and wet sensation were significantly lower than those of control group, which shows that wearing thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment can effectively alleviate the thermal sensation brought by the high temperature environment, promote the increase of sweat, reduce human sweating, inhibit the rise of the wet sensation of the subjects, and improve the thermal comfort of human body. Through the thermal manikin test, the thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment can provide relatively stable cooling effect for the human body. The average cooling power is 36.56 W, the cooling power of unit weight is 13.9 W/kg, and the cooling coefficient is 0.64. The proposed thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment has good cooling performance. In addition, under the premise of not affecting the cooling effect, wearing thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment can expand the indoor ambient temperature setting point by 2.4 ℃.

Conclusion The thermoelectric refrigeration ventilation garment enhances the heat dissipation of the human body by strengthening the two modes of convection and evaporation, which reduces the human skin temperature and core temperature, improves the heat sensation, wet sensation and thermal comfort of the human body, improves the dress comfort of the human body, and saves building energy. In the future research, semiconductors with greater power refrigeration sheet and air supply fan can be adopted to increase the coverage of the ventilation pipes, and to improve the cooling effect of the ventilation garment. At the same time, on the premise of ensuring that the cooling effect of ventilation service is not affected, the refrigeration device and ventilation pipe with lighter weight are selected to improve the portability of the ventilation service.

Machinery & Equipment

Pose estimation and bobbin grasping based on deep learning methods

WANG Qing, JIANG Yuefu, ZHAO Tiantian, ZHAO Shihang, LIU Jiayi

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  217-226.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240900601

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Objective As the textile industry transitions toward smart technology, there is an urgent need for the automation of bobbin-changing operations in winding process. Aiming to address the challenges of yarn bobbin pose estimation and gripping, deep learning algorithms is adopted to predict the pose, so as to provide key technological support for the intelligent development of the textile industry, improve production efficiency, and promote sustainable development.

Method By building a system that includes a robotic arm, camera, and other components, real and synthetic datasets were created, and online data augmentation was performed. The Swin Transformer was adopted to process the yarn bobbin color information, while KPConv was employed to extract the geometric features. After local pixel fusion, the pose was predicted, and the robotic arm was controlled to grasp the yarn bobbin based on the predicted pose.

Results Using a trained network model, the input bobbin images were processed to generate six-degrees-of-freedom pose estimation results for the bobbins. Specifically, the model could predict the poses of five different types of bobbins. Experimental results demonstrated a high level of consistency between the predicted poses and the actual poses of the bobbins. During testing, 98.7% of the predictions resulted in an average distance error of less than 10% between the estimated model points and the actual model points, indicating that the network model exhibits high accuracy and stability in the bobbin pose estimation task, effectively addressing challenges such as lighting variations and color diversity that could interfere with pose estimation. Bobbin grasping experiments were conducted on five different types of bobbins, with each set of experiments comprising 100 grasping attempts. The grasping success rate ranged from 96% to 98% across different bobbins, with an average success rate of 96.8%. Overall, the grasping success rates for the various bobbins were consistently high, with minimal differences between them. Under the experimental grasping conditions, all types of bobbins could be reliably grasped. The average response time of the pose estimation for each image frame was found in the range of 0.11 s to 0.14 s, while the average grasping response time was in the range of 2.07 s to 2.21 s. The significantly higher grasping response time is primarily attributed to the use of Python for robotic arm control, which has relatively lower execution efficiency. However, the model's efficient performance in pose estimation suggests that deploying the system on higher-performance hardware platforms would leave substantial room for overall optimization.

Conclusion The study indicates that the higher grasping response time is primarily due to the robotic arm controlled by Python, which has relatively lower execution efficiency. However, the model's high efficiency in pose estimation suggests that if deployed on a higher-performance hardware platform, the overall system performance would have significant room for optimization. Overall, this method demonstrates high accuracy and stability in the tasks of bobbin pose estimation and grasping, providing valuable insights and references for the intelligent design and practical applications in the textile industry.

Three-dimensional visual positioning method of textile cylindrical components via binocular structured light

REN Zhimo, ZHANG Wenchang, LI Zhenyi, YE He, YANG Chunliu, ZHANG Qian

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  227-235.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240803201

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Objective In the textile industry, the majority of finished and semi-finished products contain cylindrical parts. Throughout the production process, these parts frequently necessitate transportation. Manual transportation, however, presents challenges such as increased labor intensity, reduced efficiency, and vulnerability to damage. In order to address these issues, the implementation of machine vision positioning to direct robotic grasping of cylindrical components offers a superior solution. Hence, it is essential to propose a high-precision, rapid positioning methodology specifically tailored for cylindrical parts.

Method A positioning system was designed for cylindrical components in the textile industry, leveraging binocular structured light vision. The end-face of the cylindrical component was illuminated with cross structured light to capture the image using a binocular camera. The image to pinpoint the intersection of structured light with the edge was preprocessed, then a spatial line-based stereo matching algorithm was proposed. The spatial position and normal vector of the end face were solved, utilizing the structured light edge points' imaging to fit the end face center via least squares. This method was utilized to determine the spatial position and orientation of the cylindrical component.

Result In order to validate the accuracy of the visual positioning system, a grasping experiment was conducted utilizing an unwinding disk as the experimental object. Employing the eyes-in-hand camera installation method, 1 280 pixel×960 pixel images were captured. Following multiple grasping trials, the system's detection range of within ±35 mm in position and ±10° in angle was established. The robot, guided by machine vision, successfully completed the grasping of the workpiece. The cylindrical end-face, demarcated by two spatial straight lines, exhibited a maximum positioning error of 0.194 mm, demonstrating the effectiveness of the positioning method in identifying the position and orientation of the end face. Even though the edges of cylindrical parts in the textile industry were mostly circular arcs resulting in weaker structured light characteristics and a maximum edge error of 0.956 mm for the cylindrical end-face circle, the positioning error of the center of the cylinder end-face was primarily evident in the radial direction of the end-face, with relatively small errors in the normal direction. Given the significant margin in the radial direction of the end-face design in actual robot fixture production, visual positioning methods were able to accurately guide robots to complete grasping tasks.

Conclusion The propostd spatial positioning method for textile cylindrical components, utilizes binocular dual line structured light technology. It effectively resolves visual positioning challenges and automates the loading and unloading of textile products during the production process. By actively projecting cross structured light onto the cylindrical ends, it enhances these areas with readily recognizable markers, thereby facilitating spatial positioning. A tailored spatial line-based stereo matching algorithm is devised, boosting the speed and accuracy of localization. Initially, binocular vision calibration precisely defines the internal and external parameters of the cameras, as well as their positional relationship. Subsequently, a stereo matching algorithm based on spatial straight lines is proposed, targeting the imaging characteristics of the cross structured light, so as to accomplish the three-dimensional reconstruction task. Utilizing the coordinates of the intersection points between the structured light and the workpiece edges, the methodology models the cylindrical end planes and circular edges, accurately pinpointing their spatial poses. The results demonstrate precise robotic grasping capabilities, with positioning errors of less than 0.2 mm for the end plane and less than 1.0 mm for the circular edge, which meet the demands of industrial production. It provides a reference for the application of machine vision in the textile industry production.

Comprehensive Review

Review on dissolution systems for cellulose and recycling and regeneration of waste cotton fiber

LIU Jingyu, SHI Sheng, HU Xiaorui, LI Xiaoyan, ZHANG Meiling, GAO Chengyong, WANG Hua

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  236-243.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240701202

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Significance As a result of improved wealtiness of consumers and the change in consumption concept, and the amount of waste textiles generated has increased year by year. Cotton is the most important natural fiber, the average annual waste is huge, the development of high-value reuse technology of waste cotton textiles, the establishment of waste cotton textile cleaning and recycling system has important economic value. Strengthening the basic research of cellulose dissolution mechanism and development a new cellulose solvent system with high efficiency, economy and environmental protection, further optimizing the recycling process of waste cotton fibers, have been priary driving force for establishing and improving the recycling system of waste cotton textiles. Opening up different comprehensive utilization channels of waste cotton textiles has an important positive role in promoting resource conservation, environmental protection and carbon emission reduction, and the development and application of biomass materials.

Progress Cellulose cannot be directly spun into fiber by melting method, hence dissolution is the premise and key to high-value processing and utilization. However, it is challenging to achieve the dissolution of cotton fibers due to its high crystallinity, high molecular weight, complex aggregate structure, and insoluble in water and ordinary organic solvents. Therefore, researchers have been constantly exploring and researching cellulose solvents. The cuprammonium method and viscose method are conventional processes for the production of regenerated cellulose fibers. However, because the production process of the two involves a large amount of harmful chemicals causing serious environmental pollution, the use of these methods in industrial production has been gradually reduced. Some new cellulose solvent systems, including alkali/urea systems, lithium chloride/N,N-dimethylacetamide (LiCl/DMAc) systems, N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) systems, ionic liquids have been reported. In addition, based on various solvent systems, many important results have been achieved in the research on the graded recycling of waste cotton fibers through mechanical, physical and chemical methods. A variety of regenerated cellulose and their derivative products have been produced with excellent performance and application values, for example, regenerated cellulose fiber, regenerated yarn, regenerated cellulose film, aerogel, hydrogel have a very wide range of application prospects.

Conclusion and Prospect The conventional cellulose dissolution systems have many problems such as poor solubility, high cost, cumbersome recycling process, and environmental pollution. Compared with conventional cellulose solvent systems, the development of new solvent systems such as alkali/urea and NaOH/thiourea, ionic liquids, and DES provide possibilities for green processing of cellulose and high-value recycling. However, these systems still have problems such as high cost, harsh dissolution conditions and limited solubility, and it is still difficult to achieve efficient dissolution of cotton fibers. In order to obtain comprehensive utilization, cotton fiber can be processed into corresponding recycled products from the level of fiber structure, aggregate structure and molecular structure, through mechanical opening, dissolution and regeneration and chemical degradation and graded utilization. Although many important progress and outstanding results have been achieved in the research of cellulose recycling, the existing solvent system and recovery technology still face challenge in general in achieving efficient and clean reuse of waste cotton fiber. It is still necessary to further explore more cost-competitive and technically competitive cotton fiber recycling schemes. Breaking through the bottleneck problem and directly improving the comprehensive utilization rate are of positive significance to help the construction of ecological civilization and the achievement of the ″dual carbon goal″, and accelerate the construction of a resource recycling industrial system and a waste material recycling system.

Application progress in electronic textile manufacturing based on printing technology

ZHANG Nan, LU Hong

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  244-252.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241207502

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Significance The demand for comfort, nice appearance, and portability in smart products continues to grow as time goes on. Electronic textiles, because of their inherent ability to seamlessly integrate electronics, are gradually becoming a focal point in both research and industry. The widespread adoption of green and sustainable development principles has spurred the rapid growth of low-pollution printing technologies in the field of flexible electronics manufacturing. Compared to conventional printed circuit board manufacturing, printing processes eliminate the need for high-temperature procedures, thereby reducing corrosion-related pollution, conserving energy, and lowering carbon emissions. Leveraging their advantages of high efficiency, low cost, and scalability, printing technologies have opened new opportunities for electronic textile manufacturing, driving advancements in flexible electronics and smart wearable technologies.

Progress The fabrication of flexible electronics via printing technologies involves five key components. substrate materials, printable electronic materials, printing equipment, printing processes, and system design and integration. Substrate materials and printing equipment primarily rely on existing products from related fields, while the development of printable electronic materials and the optimization of printing processes are the focal points of research. Currently, ink materials mainly include metal nanoparticle-based, carbon-based, and polymer-based conductive components, with metal nanoparticle-based inks being the most widely used. Additionally, the emergence of functionally composite and environmentally friendly ink materials has further expanded the application scope and functionality of electronic printing. Printing processes are critical in determining product quality and efficiency, with commonly used methods including screen printing, inkjet printing, and roll-to-roll printing. Among these, screen printing and inkjet printing are the most prevalent. Electrohydrodynamic inkjet printing, because of its compatibility with a variety of functional materials, is considered a promising candidate to replace traditional technologies. In terms of system design and integration, the flexible hybrid electronics printing approach enables direct integration of electronic systems onto substrate materials without the need for separate fabrication and subsequent attachment. This technology provides effective support for the industrialization of flexible electronics.

Conclusion and Prospect In the future, the development of printed electronic textiles will hinge on the advancement of novel printable electronic materials, while enhancing printing precision and production efficiency remains a primary focus of technological progress. The application of eco-friendly materials and low-pollution production processes has become a hotspot, and designing portable wearable devices and smart clothing tailored to user needs represents a growing market trend. Despite the significant advantages of printing technologies in the field of electronic textiles, several challenges persist, which include (1) reliability and stability of ink materials, where the existing inks struggle to maintain consistency over extended periods, and different printing technologies impose varying requirements on ink properties, calling for development of more adaptable inks; (2) cost and technical limitations of mass production equipment, in which low-cost screen printing lacks sufficient precision while the high-precision technologies such as inkjet printing involve high equipment and consumable costs, along with complex setup and maintenance, posing barriers for small enterprises adopting advanced technologies; and (3) demand for standardization and quality certification, in which the market's need for standardized management is increasingly pressing, calling for enterprises to establish and refine standardized systems to enhance product quality and competitiveness, ensuring consistency and reliability.

Review on research progress of cooling garments with phase-change packages as cold source

LUO Yuling, YANG Xizhu, WANG Xinglan, ZHENG Xiaohui, ZHAO Shengnan, CHANG Suqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(07):  253-261.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241205802

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Significance Phase-change cooling garments are a special functional clothing, which use phase-change materials (PCM) at a specific temperature can change their physical status to absorb or release a significant amount of heat, so as to regulate the comfortable temperature of the clothing microclimate between clothing and the human body. Phase-change cooling garments can effectively improve the conventional liquid cooling and gas cooling garments in terms of large volume, high cost, liquid leakage, explosion, restricted application places, and other related issues.

Progress Despite the many advantages of phase-change cooling garments, problems still exist, such as low cooling rate, high humidity in the microclimate of the garment, short cooling time, and imperfect selection of working conditions. Comprehensive national and international latest research status suggests that the microclimate inside the garments directly affects the human body thermal comfort, and the influencing factors range from phase-change cooling garments, cooling garments structural optimization, and the use of working conditions. In order to keep the microclimate temperature regulated by the cooling garments at (32±1) ℃, relative humidity at (50±10)%, and air velocity at (25±5) cm/s within the standard climate range, phase-change materials are the core structure in the phase-change cooling garments.

The main factors that influence the final use of the cooling suit are the operating environment and human activity level. In order to optimize the overall performance of the cooling suit, the influence of the environment and human activity level on its performance should be considered. In order to select the optimal cooling material, the physical parameters of the PCM, such as phase-change temperature, latent heat of change, thermal conductivity, and so on, should be taken into account. Solutions to common problems of cooling garments are identified through the structural design of the phase-change package cold source system, with their advantages and disadvantages. Phase-change cooling garments address common issues in cooling garment solutions through the structural design of the cold source system, and analyze their advantages and disadvantages:

Low cooling rate of cooling garments: modifying phase change materials to improve thermal conductivity can enhance the cooling rate, but the development process is cumbersome and time-consuming. Additionally, adjusting the temperature gradient (the difference between skin temperature and the melting point of the PCM) can also improve the cooling rate; however, this approach may not be suitable for situations requiring long-term cooling.

High humidity in microclimate: While combining phase change garments with desiccants has an excellent dehumidification effect, it poses a potential heating issue that reduces the cooling duration. Mixing phase change garments with vortex tubes can improve the microenvironment's humidity, but the large size of vortex tubes makes movement inconvenient. Introducing a micro-fan can effectively mitigate humidity problems, but its effectiveness diminishes when the skin temperature equals the external environment temperature. Utilizing moisture-absorbent fabrics can efficiently reduce microenvironment humidity in the short term, but prolonged wear limits its efficacy.

Short cooling duration: adjusting the structure of the packaging layer can extend cooling time to some extent, but only until the phase change package becomes ineffective. Combining different melting points of phase change materials can prolong the cooling duration, although this increases the thickness of the phase change package, which affects wearing comfort. Integrating various cooling mechanisms allows for the recyclability of the phase change package, but results in a larger volume, limiting application to certain insulated areas. Vortex tubes combined with phase-change cooling garments are restricted to specific locations due to these limitations.

Conclusion and Prospect Phase-change cooling garments need to be designed against the working environment. Under the conditions of determining the temperature, humidity, wind speed, and radiation intensity of the working conditions, and according to the comfort needs of the microclimate inside the garment, the existing problems of phase-change cooling garments are solved from the selection of phase change materials, cold source design, and garment structure in three directions, so as to ensure that phase-change cooling garments with the cooling performance, comfort, cost, and other aspects of the optimal effect. The future research focus of phase-change cooling garments includes. (1) Development of a phase-change material with high storage energy (high latent heat of phase change) and high heat absorption efficiency (high thermal conductivity); (2) Integration PCM with melting points with ergonomics for different parts of the human body with the difference in temperature sensitivity; (3) When selecting working conditions, factors such as temperature, humidity, wind speed, and radiation need to be considered to ensure that the cooling performance of the cooling garments is optimized during use.