纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (03): 102-109.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800308

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺纬平针织物的服用性能

张陈恬1, 赵连英1, 顾学锋2   

  1. 1.浙江理工大学 纺织科学与工程学院, 浙江 杭州 310018
    2.宁波马菲羊纺织科技有限公司, 浙江 宁波 315700
  • 收稿日期:2020-08-03 修回日期:2020-10-26 出版日期:2021-03-15 发布日期:2021-03-17
  • 作者简介:张陈恬(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为新型纺织品开发。

Wearability of hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton blended weft plain knitted fabric

ZHANG Chentian1, ZHAO Lianying1, GU Xuefeng2   

  1. 1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Ningbo Myfitt Textile Technology Co., Ltd., Ningbo, Zhejiang 315700, China
  • Received:2020-08-03 Revised:2020-10-26 Online:2021-03-15 Published:2021-03-17

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摘要：

为研究中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量对其纬平针织物服用性能的影响,设计了5种不同混纺比中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉纤维,采用环锭纺与赛络纺纺制了10组18.3 tex混纺纱,并织成相同规格的纬平针织物。测试并分析织物的顶破、起毛起球、透气、透湿及保暖性能。基于回归分析,获得了中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量与织物各性能指标的关系,并建立了综合性能评价函数对织物的服用性能进行评价。结果表明:随着中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的增加,混纺纬平针织物的顶破强力、透气、透湿、保暖性增加,抗起毛起球性能变差,赛络纱织物的综合性能优于环锭纱织物;中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺织物相比于普通涤/棉织物,透气性能可提高66%,透湿性能提高10%,保暖性能提高2.6倍。

关键词: 中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维, 纤维含量, 针织物, 服用性能, 功能纺织品

Abstract:

In order to study the influence of hollow coffee carbon polyester content on the wearability of hollow coffee carbon polyester fabrics, five blending ratios of hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton fiber were designed. Ten groups of yarns were made by ring spinning and Siro spinning, and weft plain knitted fabrics of the same specification were made. Fabric bursting, pilling, air permeability, moisture permeability and thermal performance were tested and analyzed. Based on regression analysis, the relationship between content of hollow coffee carbon polyester and fabric bursting, pilling, air permeability, moisture permeability and thermal insulation performance was obtained, and a comprehensive performance evaluation was established to make a comprehensive evaluation for fabric wearability. The results show that with the increase of hollow coffee carbon polyester content, the bursting strength, air permeability, moisture permeability and heat preservation performance of the fabric increases, and the pilling performance become worse, and the comprehensive value of the siro-yarn fabric was always higher than that of ring-yarn fabric. Compared with ordinary poly-cotton blended fabric, hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton blended fabric has at least 66% higher permeability increased, also 10% higher moisture permeability and 2.6 times higher thermal performance.

Key words: hollow coffee carbon polyester, fiber content, knitted fabric, wearability, functional textiles

中图分类号: 

  • TS102.5

图1

中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维的横向和纵向形态"

表1

纤维参数"

纤维种类 线密度/dtex 长度/mm 断裂强度/(cN·dtex-1) 断裂伸长率/% 初始模量/(cN·dtex-1) 回潮率/%
中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维 1.67 38 5.12 20.9 37.51 1.54
细绒棉 1.86 30 2.71 10.3 20.10 5.30

表2

纱线性能"

纱线编号 中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维与棉混纺比 断裂强度/(cN·tex-1) 断裂伸长率/% 回潮率/% 条干不匀变异系数/% 毛羽指数H值
a1 20/80 16.2 7.2 6.08 16.24 5.13
a2 40/60 17.0 8.1 5.51 14.89 4.33
a3 50/50 17.6 8.6 5.43 15.03 4.16
a4 60/40 18.8 9.3 5.37 15.49 3.88
a5 80/20 22.1 10.8 2.85 15.40 3.32
b1 20/80 16.7 6.5 7.89 15.45 4.27
b2 40/60 18.7 8.0 6.87 14.69 3.60
b3 50/50 19.1 8.8 6.76 14.78 3.51
b4 60/40 20.9 9.2 6.67 14.85 3.33
b5 80/20 24.9 10.7 3.08 14.96 3.12

表3

织物基本参数"

织物
编号		 织物厚度/
mm		 横密/
(纵行·(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·(5 cm)-1)
A1 0.130 68 78
A2 0.128 70 82
A3 0.130 69 80
A4 0.130 71 83
A5 0.131 70 81
B1 0.132 71 82
B2 0.130 69 81
B3 0.131 72 80
B4 0.129 70 80
B5 0.131 72 81

图2

顶破强力与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

图3

顶破长度与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

图4

起毛起球评级样照"

表4

织物起毛起球评级"

试样
编号		 不同摩擦次数下的织物起毛起球评级 平均值
125次 500次 1 000次 2 000次 5 000次 7 000次
A1 5 4.5 4 4 3.5 3 4
A2 5 4.5 4 4 3.5 3 4
A3 5 4.5 4 4 3.5 3 4
A4 5 4.5 4 3.5 3 3 3.83
A5 5 4 4 3.5 3 2.5 3.67
B1 5 5 4.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 4.17
B2 5 5 4.5 4.5 4 4 4.5
B3 5 5 4.5 4.5 4 4 4.5
B4 5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4 4 4.42
B5 5 4.5 4.5 4 3.5 3 4.08

图5

不同摩擦次数下试样A1的表面起毛起球照片"

图6

起毛起球等级与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

图7

透气率与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

图8

透湿率与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

图9

克罗值与中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的拟合曲线"

表5

试样性能综合评价值"

试样编号 综合评价值 试样编号 综合评价值
A1 0.207 B1 0.226
A2 0.217 B2 0.239
A3 0.221 B3 0.246
A4 0.225 B4 0.252
A5 0.232 B5 0.265
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