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Table of Content

    15 March 2008, Volume 29 Issue 3
    • 纤维材料
      Microstructure and property of electrospun regenerated silk fibroin/gelatin nanofibers
      BAO Weiwei;WANG Shudong;ZHANG Youzhu;YIN Guibo;WU Jialin;SHI Debing;DONG Zhihui;FU Weiguo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 1045 )   PDF (1060KB) ( 593 )   Save
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      The electrospinning of regenerated silk fibroin(SF) and gelatin blended with the composition ratio 70∶30 was performed with 98% formic acid as spinning solvent.The influence of mass concentration and ethanol treatment on the microstructure,mechanical properties and solubility of electrospun SF/gelatin nanofibers was investigated.The pore diameter and porosity of SF/gelatin fiber membrane with different mass concentrations and different thickness were measured.The mouse fibroblasts and human umbilic vein endothelium cells were seed on SF/gelatin nanofibers scaffold.The results showed that: along with the mass concentrations of spinning solution increasing and ethanol treating,the content of β-sheet of SF in electrospun SF/gelatin nanofibers was increased,crystallinity increased,water-dissolved rate declined,and tensile strength enhanced of electrospun SF/gelatin nanofibers;as the mass concentration of spinning solution increased,the pore diameter of electrospun SF/gelatin nanofibers was decreased and the porosity was increased;both the pore diameter and porosity were decreased with the increase of the thickness of electrospun SF/gelatin nanofibers.The SF/gelatin nanofibers scaffold may be a good candidate for both L929 and HUVECs spreading and proliferating.
      Hygroscopicity of the PET/EVOH sheath-core fiber
      LI Shufeng;WANG Rui;KANG Weimin;HUANG Junpeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  5-8. 
      Abstract ( 1117 )   PDF (604KB) ( 516 )   Save
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      PET/EVOH sheath-core fiber was prepared and the optimal spinning parameters were obtained.The PET/EVOH sheath-core fibers with various sheath-core ratios were prepared by changing the content of the PET and EVOH.After testing the mechanical properties and hygroscopicity of this fiber,it was found that increasing the content of PET would increase the tensile strength of the fiber and make the spinnability better;on the other hand,increasing the content of EVOH would increase the hygroscopicity of the fiber.When the sheath-core ratio was 5∶5,the tensile strength of the PET/EVOH fiber was 2.53 cN/dtex and the actual moisture absorption ration was 1.6%,which would provide the good spinnability and the general properties to meet the process demand.
      Length-distribution of coconut fiber
      WANG Wei;HUANG Gu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  9-12. 
      Abstract ( 1131 )   PDF (652KB) ( 498 )   Save
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      In order to further expand coconut fiber′s development and application areas, a single fiber length method of measurement is used for determination of length-distribution of the coconut fiber.The test reveals that the coconut fiber length is within 8~337 mm,and a computer simulation for coconut fiber distribution has been developed.Coconut fiber length distribution is proved to be continuous,with the notable features of natural fiber distribution.Through measurement and analysis,the authors study the coconut fiber length distribution,length-weight distribution,and length-linear density distribution.It is concluded that the average coconut fiber linear-density is 27.89 tex and linear-density 18.265~70.442 tex.
      Research on non-isothermal crystallization kinetics of poly(ethylene terephthalate)
      DONG Zhizhi;ZHANG Zhiying;CHEN Li;WANG Shuguang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  13-16. 
      Abstract ( 848 )   PDF (622KB) ( 491 )   Save
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      The non-isothermal crystallization process of poly(ethylene terephthalate)(PET) fiber was researched by the method of differential scanning calorimetry(DSC) and computer simulation.It was showed that the fitted error of activation energy obtained from the reformed Ozawa equation and computer simulation was 0.048.And the fitted error of nucleation parameter was 0.033.The fitted errors were both confined within 1%.The research indicates that the activation energy and nucleation parameter of PET by computer simulation can been obtained.
      纺织工程
      Manufacturing and property of microporous polyester staple fiber fabric
      HU Feng;WANG Faming;ZHENG Zhiyu;LU Ming;ZHOU Xiaohong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  17-20. 
      Abstract ( 1251 )   PDF (673KB) ( 440 )   Save
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      To study the moisture transmitting property of the microporous polyester staple fiber fabric,four kinds of fabrics were made with low stretch polyester interlaced yarn of 165 dtex/48 f as warp and spandex wrapped microporous polyester staple yarn of 14.76 tex×2 as weft differing in plain or twill and with or without hydrophilic treatment.And it was found through comparison that with respect to moisture absorption,the plain weave fabric is better than the twill,and there is not much difference between the hydrophilic treated and untreated;the microporous polyester staple fiber fabric itself has a good moisture transmitting ability with no need of hydrophilic treatment.It is proposed that the initial wicking rate be used to characterize the moisture transmitting ability of the fabric.
      Oriented moisture transfer of knitted fabrics
      XU Ruichao;CHEN Li′na;YANG Wen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 876 )   PDF (721KB) ( 325 )   Save
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      Three kinds of union double jersey fabrics were produced with new polyester filament coolmax and their inner and outer layers were made with different single fiber fineness.Their dynamic moisture transfer properties were measured by using the Moisture Management Tester(MMT).The tester can calculate and compare the moisture transfer between the two sides of the fabric according to the moisture content which varies with time and obtain information such as moisture transport direction(from inner to layer) and rate etc.,therefore the one-way transport ability can be gauged.The experiments reveal that double jersey fabrics using different fiber fineness on the two sides has good one-way moisture transport ability,and the greater the difference of fiber fineness between the two sides,the more significant the transport speed and ability.
      Development of textile′s dynamic heat-moisture measuring instrument based on NI LabVIEW
      YANG Kai;CHEN Yisong;ZHANG Weiyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  25-28. 
      Abstract ( 856 )   PDF (781KB) ( 494 )   Save
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      Aiming at objective evaluation on textile′s dynamic heat-moisture comfort properties,this paper developed a textile′s dynamic heat-moisture measuring instrument based on NI LabVIEW,which simulated sweating skin-microclimate-fabric.By testing the real time changes of temperature and relative humidity in inner and outer surfaces of fabric when it was covered with simulated sweating skin by LabVIEW virtual instrument software program,the instrument made evaluation of textile′s dynamic heat-moisture comfort properties.And it was proved to have good controlling precision and repeat accuracy by lots of experiments.This instrument was used to study four kinds of fabrics with different fibers by analyzing their temperature and relative humidity variation curves in microclimate, and temperature and relative humidity difference curves of inner and outer surfaces of fabrics and make evaluation of the four fabrics′ dynamic heat-moisture comfort properties.
      Stitch length measuring system with digital image processing based on MatLab
      SONG Guangli;DING Xuerong;HUANG Gu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  29-33. 
      Abstract ( 1563 )   PDF (840KB) ( 669 )   Save
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      To enhance the reliability and automation of stitch length measurement,a stitch length measuring system through processing the scanned image based on MatLab was introduced.First,by extracting the features reflecting the stitch length with FFT(Fast Fourier Transform) and specific processing,the 2-D stitch length was measured,and then,the 3-D stitch length was calculated automatically according to regression analysis.Experiments demonstrate that no notable difference is found of the data obtained between the system and manual measurement.
      Testing method of fabric drape based on upward projection
      LI Qiang;GUO Yuqing;JI Feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  34-37. 
      Abstract ( 1010 )   PDF (919KB) ( 456 )   Save
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      A method to measure the fabric drape based on upward projection was proposed.The upward projected image of the draped fabric edge was collected by the CCD camera.The image processing and contour detection were erformed and all necessary data of the draped fabric edge were obtained.Rectified the data which were distorted because of the projection,calculated the parameter of the fabric drape.Test the fabric by the traditional fabric measurement method based on downward projection and got the experiment data.The two different experiment results indicated the new testing method based on the upward projection can avoid the unavoidable error,which is occurred when the traditional downward projection testing method is used to measure the light,thin and soft fabric owing to the gauffer being turned under the supporting disc and is sheltered by it.
      Preparation and characterization of anti-bacterial nonwovens by magnetron sputtering rare-earth activated TiO_2 onto PET fabric
      ZHAO Xiaoyan;WANG Hongbo;GAO Weidong;MENG Yanling;GU Jia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  38-41. 
      Abstract ( 1122 )   PDF (901KB) ( 472 )   Save
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      Low temperature RF magnetic sputtering is applied to deposit nano-structured film of TiO_2 and rare-earth Nd on the surface of PET nonwoven.Therefore,absorption spectrum of TiO_2 is widened and better anti-bacterial performance under visible light is conferred.In this way,the anti-bacterial function of surface is realized for textile material.The anti-bacterial performances of nonwovens covered with nanosized films of TiO_2,Nd and laminated component were measured by shake flask test.The results showed that a certain quantity of rare-earth Nd can effectively improve the anti-bacterial performance of nano-sized TiO_2 film.And the AFM and XRD tests indicated that the crystal structure of the nano-sized laminated TiO_2/Nd film on the surface of PET nonwoven is of anatase form with better crystallinity and multi-layer growth mode.
      Trial manufacturing of environmental friendly bast fiber mulch film
      WANG Chaoyun;L Jiangnan;OUYANG Qing;YI Yongjian;ZHANG Yunxiong;TANG Jianwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  42-46. 
      Abstract ( 940 )   PDF (933KB) ( 484 )   Save
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      Nonwoven manufacturing technology combined with finishing technics such as specific impregnation were used to investigate effects of web-forming,consolidation method and water-repellent finishing etc on environmental friendly bast fiber mulch film,and bast fiber such as ramie and jute were major material for trial manufacture.The results showed that the bast fiber mulch film manufactured by using web-forming technic combining carding with air-lay,chemical consolidation method taking use of acrylate or vinyl acetate latex as consolidation agent,product surface dipped by waterproof agent(organic fluorine) has surface density of 30-50 g/m~2,tensile strength of 629-1 532 N·m,bursting strength of 81-203 N,tearing strength of 56-82 N and permeability coefficient of 7.79×10~-4-1.76×10~-3.Its mechanical property indexes can meet application requirements.
      Technical and artistic characteristics of Chinese ancient brocade
      ZHOU Jiu;NG Frankie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  47-50. 
      Abstract ( 1072 )   PDF (974KB) ( 649 )   Save
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      Following the tracking of the devolvement and evolution of Chinese ancient brocade,this paper discussed the technical and artistic characteristics of Chinese ancient brocade from scientific and artistic viewpoints in combination with emergence and development of three famous brocades of Chinese ancient brocades,i.e.Shu brocade,Song brocade and Yun brocade as well as their main characteristics. In addition,the inner beauty embodied by Chinese ancient brocade was analyzed in terms of material and weaving technique,appearance aesthetics,and design and colour.The results of this study help recognizing the essential relationship of science-art in the evolvement of Chinese ancient brocade and also provide a good reference to the research and development of modern brocade nowadays.
      History and art characteristics of Lu brocade
      REN Xueling;HONG Ping;TU Hengxian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  51-55. 
      Abstract ( 1264 )   PDF (1274KB) ( 629 )   Save
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      On the basis of investigating on Lu brocade in the southwest of Shangdong province several times,the history of Lu brocade was researched and a lot of patterns of Lu brocade was collected.After analyzing the history,colors and meaning of patterns of Lu brocade,it shows both the colors and patterns of Lu brocade embody the living of the people there.The current status and future outlook of Lu brocade were discussed,and it shows that for better inheriting and development,protection and research and development should be emphasized.
      染整与化学品
      Structure of silk fibers grafted with dodecafluoroheptyl methacrylate
      ZHOU Chunxiao;CHEN Guoqiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  56-58. 
      Abstract ( 900 )   PDF (1136KB) ( 575 )   Save
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      This paper mainly explored the changes of structures and properties of silk fibers after being grafted with dodecafluroheptyl methacrylate.Modern analysis tools such as scanning electron micrograph photographs(SEM),infrared spectroscopy (IR),wide-angle X-ray diffraction patterns(WAXD),amino acid analysis etc.were used to study the structure of silk fibers after grafted with dodecafluroheptyl methacrylate.The results showed that dodecafluoroheptyl methacrylate was grafted onto silk.Furthermore,the graft copolymerization reaction took place in the amorphous region of the silk fibers such as TYR,ARG,GLU etc.,the crystal area was not destroyed during the reaction,however,the grafted silk had some damnification when the silk obtained higher graft yield.
      Radiation graft copolymerization of acrylamide onto silk fabrics
      HUANG Chen;WANG Hong;XU Yunhui;HE Yindi;ZHANG Lu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  59-62. 
      Abstract ( 951 )   PDF (1125KB) ( 650 )   Save
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      This paper studied graft copolymerization of acrylamide monomer onto the silk fabrics by radiation of ~60Co γ ray and investigated the influence radiation dose,monomer mass fraction and pH value of the treatment solution on the graft yield.Properties of the grafted fabric were tested and the results indicated that after graft modification,the silk fabric exhibited significant improvement in crease resistance,little change in moisture absorption,and slight fall in breaking strength and whiteness.The optimal crease resistance treatment process conditions were determined by orthogonal experiments through observing the delayed elastic recovery angles: radiation dose,40 kGy;monomer mass fraction, 30%;pH value,4.And FT-IR was used to characterize the grafted silk fabric.
      Determination of chitosan content finished on cotton fabrics by dyeing method
      ZHU Sai;CHEN Weiguo;CHEN Haixiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  63-65. 
      Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (1092KB) ( 480 )   Save
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      The reactivity of reactive dye Doractive WN3BR with the amidogen of chitosan was utilized for determination of chitosan content on cotton fabric.Chitosan finished cotton fabric was dyed,its color yield(K/S value) was measured,and the K/S value was found to have a good linear relationship (R=0.997 3) with the content of chitosan which has been finished on the pure cotton fabric in the range of 0~15 mg/g(cotton fabric).Through measuring the content of nitrogen,the good linear relationship between the chitosan content and the K/S value of the cotton fabric finished with chitosan was proved and the standard working graph was set up.On this basis,a measurement of content of chitosan finished on pure cotton fabric was established by measuring the color yield of dyed cotton.This measurement is simple,fast and less deflective.
      Mechanism of low temperature dyeing of wool in the presence of H2O2/NH2CSNH2 redox system
      WANG Zongqian;CHEN Weiguo;WANG Lan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  66-71. 
      Abstract ( 1300 )   PDF (1343KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the mechanism of wool in H_2O_2/NH_2CSNH_2 redox system low temperature dyeing,the advanced analysis such as electron paramagnetic resonance(ESR),gas-chromatography and ultraviolet spectroscopy were used in detection of free radical and the products from the redox system.The results revealed that free radicals from wool fiber and the weak acid dye red B were developed under the H_2O_2/NH_2CSNH_2 redox system in the dyeing solution and this made the molecules on the surface of fiber and the dyes highly reactive.At the same time,the H_2O_2/NH_2CSNH_2 redox system released acid to keep the pH constantly which caused swelling of wool fibers.So that,better dyeing property of wool with weak acid dyes at low temperature was achieved.
      服装工程
      Development of clothing pressure measuring system
      CHEN Dongsheng;CUI Liming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  72-75. 
      Abstract ( 1058 )   PDF (1482KB) ( 629 )   Save
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      In order to test the clothing pressure on human body,the micro-airbag device was developed based on the technologies of micro-transducer.The system makes it possible to obtain objective data for assessment of clothing comfort property.Of the clothing pressure measurement system,the flexible micro-airbag is the key part,which can avoid the deviation of the pressure on testing spots.The results showed that the system is suitable for multi-spot data collection and recording,thus meeting the requirements of clothing pressure measurement and objective evaluation.
      A fuzzy evaluation system of garment seam smoothness based on improved RBF network
      PAN Yonghui;BAO Fang;WANG Shitong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  76-79. 
      Abstract ( 1115 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 479 )   Save
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      Garment seam subjective evaluation tends to be influenced by the evaluator.For this reason,this paper used FAST system to measure mechanical properties of garment fabric at low stress,and applied main factor method to analyze the measured mechanical properties,then extracted 6 main factors as the input of neural network.Employing FCM clustering algorithm to improve RBFNN(calculating prototypes and widths of hidden nodes with clustering results),this paper proposed a fuzzy seam smoothness evaluation system.Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed approach can quickly and accurately present the evaluation result of the seam smoothness of garment made of thick worsted fabric of various structures and mechanical properties.
      Relationship between seam smoothness and sewing conditions of worsted fabric
      NI Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  80-82. 
      Abstract ( 1041 )   PDF (1259KB) ( 560 )   Save
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      Targeting at the compatibility of sewing technology in apparel manufacturer,through orthogonal test with L_18(6~1×3~6) repeat and mixed orthogonal array,this paper test the seam smoothness of worsted fabric under different sewing conditions and discussed the influences of each sewing condition on seam smoothness.The result indicated: as to the influence on seam smoothness of worsted fabric of medium weight,the tension of sewing thread >sewing thread>the size of sewing needle>stitch density.
      Analysis of Nantong traditional blue printed cloth value inside and modern design idea
      LIANG Hui′e;XI Yanfeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  83-86. 
      Abstract ( 1070 )   PDF (1310KB) ( 566 )   Save
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      This paper studied the Nantong traditional blue printed cloth unique production craft,the design constitution and the implication,and discussed the Nantong traditional blue printed cloth as a part of the non-material cultural heritage protection that has folk craft cultural ecology protection value.It has pointed out that the Nantong traditional blue printed cloth has the rich value of culture and artistic.And based on the standpoint,it elucidates the Nantong traditional blue printed cloth from aspects of symbol design,combination design and innovation design in combination with modern design idea,and has discovered that the combination of traditional element and a modern esthetic idea is the most important performance connotation in modern clothing culture,the union of both has also opened up new outlook for the Nantong traditional blue printed cloth in modern application of dress design.
      Shanghai style of garments:yesterday and today
      ZHANG Jingqiong;FANG Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  87-91. 
      Abstract ( 995 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 507 )   Save
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      This paper subdivided Shanghai style of garments into two inheritance components and defined the concept old shanghai style of garments as those in modern times and new Shanghai style of garments as those from the beginning of the reform and opening up according to the history and the characters of Shanghai style of garments.The old Shanghai style is based on the character of the complete westernized style and the mixed style with the western and Chinese traditional elements,which is originated from the communication of Chinese traditional garments and western garments.The character of new Shanghai style of garments is the coexistence of many fashion styles,which is originated from various communications of international modern garments.
      Westernization of Han nationality′s skirt during the period from the late Qing dynasty to the Republic of China
      QIAN Xin;WAN Fang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  91-96. 
      Abstract ( 1094 )   PDF (1484KB) ( 441 )   Save
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      After investigating and understanding the configuration of Qing style skirt,this paper made a comparison and analysis of part of physical objects handed down from the late of 19th century to 1930′s.It is believed that the skirt style combining Chinese and western had appeared before the western style skirt took the place of Chinese traditional skirt.The key point of occidentalized process is skirt′s transformation from Piece Shape to Pail Shape,accompanied by such changes as Yoke and Placket Hole.Although today it is not easy to find the physical objects of the skirt style combining Chinese and western,its use time may not be long,and its use may not be popular,this period is an important phase in the development of modern skirt.
      机械与器材
      Theoretical study on design of coat-hanger die
      LIU Yujun;WANG Junxiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  97-100. 
      Abstract ( 1125 )   PDF (1408KB) ( 456 )   Save
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      The coat-hanger die has been widely used in melt-spun nonwoven production line.Nevertheless it is lack of theoretical evidence for design.This paper provided the design theoretics of the die fluid channel based on the theories of fully developed flowing models with non-Newtonian fluid flowing in the circular conduit and in the slot,to realize uniformly distributed flux,equivalent pressure drop and equal retention time at the die exit across the die breadth.Besides,the calculating method of forces acting on the die was also upbuilt and the melt channel design was discussed too.The design theoretics,validated by the evidence that the fluid uniformity was considerably improved,provided forceful basis for the innovative design of coat-hanger die.
      Establishment of new titer sensing theoretical model of denierer
      HU Zhengyu;YU Haifeng;LU Kaiyang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  101-104. 
      Abstract ( 992 )   PDF (1455KB) ( 420 )   Save
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      With a view to the academic debates about the mechanism of the glass denierer perception,the tribology theory was used and the friction nature of glass denierer in each movement processes was qualitative classified.By using the tribology to define the solid friction,the border friction,and the fluid friction and analyze the macro and micro model of the contact between the silk yarn and the glass denierer,the previous denierer theoretical model deficiencies were pointed out.The friction formula of the contact between the silk yarn and the glass denierer was re-established by using the simple adhesion theory which was from the tribology.The new friction formula of the contact between the silk yarn and the glass denierer shows that there are three frictions: the solid friction,the border friction,and the fluid friction in the normal perception circumstances.When the silk yarn size diameter is less than the thickness of sensor pad,the new friction formula of the contact between the silk yarn and the glass denierer is the same as the previous denierer theoretical model.Therefore,it can be said that the new theory is more applicable to all types of glass denierer now in use.
      Control system of digital weaving machine based on ARM and μC/OS-Ⅱ
      XIE Zhen;CHEN Zongnong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  105-109. 
      Abstract ( 1008 )   PDF (1463KB) ( 536 )   Save
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      With a view to solving the problem of low integration control system of digital weaving machine at home,this paper developed a control system of digital weaving machine,which can control loom and jacquard simultaneously.A 32 bit ARM microprocessor and 51 MCU were suggested as the master control unit and slave control respectively,they communicated through CAN bus.This system used μC/OS-Ⅱ as the real time operation system and adopt multi-tasks as its software structure.The operation system provided task scheduler and communication media. It has been proven by practical applications that the system is easy maintenance and ready for upgrading.
      CBN wheel grinding on the rollers skew tooth top-surface of drawing frames draft
      HUANG Dayu;WANG Xiaolu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  110-112. 
      Abstract ( 926 )   PDF (1416KB) ( 452 )   Save
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      Based on analysis of the grinding shortcomings associated with brown emery wheel of the rollers skew tooth top-surface,a method was proposed,which used CBN grinding wheel in substitution for traditional brown emery wheel.The structural features and size structure of CBN grinding wheel were determined and a set of diamond wheel trimming device for the CBN grinding wheel was designed.An in-depth research on the CBN wheel′s dressing parameters was performed.Practical use indicates that CBN wheel grinding the top-surface of rollers skew tooth has made the grinding precision and surface quality greatly improved,no phenomenon of grinding burn.The endurance of CBN grinding wheel has been enhanced significantly and the life of it is more than 50 times of that of the brown emery wheel.
      Jacquard control system for three-level loop carpet tufting machine
      CHEN Guangfeng;WU Chunhui;SUN Yize;SUN Jingjing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  113-117. 
      Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (2019KB) ( 486 )   Save
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      In order to create pattern on carpet,this paper developed a jacquard control system for three-level loop carpet tufting machine.The carpet tufting jacquard control system adopts servo and magnetic-clutch controlled by industry computer as jacquard system,the computer converts the carpet patterns designed by technologist into digital information.Use servo motor to real time trace the main axis rotation according to the preset parameters;utilize industrial computer control I/O boards to control the states of magnetic-clutch to provide feeding yarns of different length,so as to control yarn tension in each tufting and get three-level loop tufting carpet.
      服装工程
      Design of synchronous control of frequency-conversion speed regulating for knitgoods heat setting machine
      LIU Guiying;ZHOU Qin;OUYANG Santai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  118-121. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (1408KB) ( 409 )   Save
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      In consideration of the technology features of knitgoods heat setting machine and the synchronization control problem of conventional speed governing device,a speed regulating system based on CAN bus and Lenze frequency-conversion was developed.The all digital field bus control by the PLC to the drive system with the transducer was realized.The synchronous control demands of the speed chain were satisfied.This solution highlights the structure and chief functions of the leading drive speed regulating system.The block diagram of hardware and software for the system was presented.The control objectives of the system have been achieved by design and debugging.
      管理与信息化
      Application of Canny operator on automatic detection of fabric waterproof performance
      ZHU Guiying;ZHANG Ruilin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  122-125. 
      Abstract ( 967 )   PDF (1474KB) ( 467 )   Save
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      This paper proposed an algorithm of automatic detection of fabric waterproof performance using image process and computer technology according to the properties of wet fabric and related standards.First,the image of the wet fabric was analyzed,and then,Canny operator and Otsu algorithm were used in detection of the fabric edge,its self-adaptiveness in the automatic detection of fabric waterproof performance was realized and its processing rate and choice of parameters were improved.Furthermore,morphological arithmetic process was used to get the closed edge of the wet fabric.
      Specifications decision for costume production
      DING Wenjie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  126-131. 
      Abstract ( 855 )   PDF (1503KB) ( 497 )   Save
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      Based on the body measurement database,sales database data mining,decision methods concerning specifications,size and proportion for costume commission were researched.It used the data mining K-Means method to characterize patronage body sizes of the databases,guide and simplify the specification table of regional apparel products.Clustering use of SubCluster method for refining regionalization clothing body measure data,as guiding production of ″regionalization specifications and type″ of the crowd;It was very useful to classify specifications from human groups in some regions,and it can be used reliably for getting specifications table in mass custom-made.And then,based on type and specifications ratio decision model with statistics and data mining method form sales specifications database and body size database and inventory database,the foundation of the project of ″Based on 3-D Size-Type Clothing Decision Making System Development″ was established,and practical software was also developed for it.
      Application of RFID technology to the raw material warehouse of apparel enterprise
      YE Jianfang;WANG Zhengxiao;PAN Xiaohong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  132-136. 
      Abstract ( 1196 )   PDF (1474KB) ( 528 )   Save
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      Having analyzed the business operation process of the raw material warehouse of apparel enterprise,the paper pointed out that there existed some managerial problems such as huge checking workload and inaccurate inventory quantity.Thus,an application solution for implementing RFID technology in the warehouse was proposed,employing the advantages of RFID(radio frequency identification) technology such as non-visual identification,multi-tag reading,non-contact identification,and fine environmental adaptability.The application solution consists of three parts: information scheme which describes the information requirement of application system,RF tag scheme that explain how the tag will be used and solution for specific business process.The whole solution has high reference value if an apparel enterprise tries to build the RFID application system themselves.
      综合述评
      Review and analysis of pressure comfort of garment
      YIN Ling;ZHANG Wenbin;XIA Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(3):  137-142. 
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (1491KB) ( 691 )   Save
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      The progress of study on pressure comfort of garment is divided into three chronological phases,which respectively are early study(from 1930′s to 1970′s),medium-term study(from 1980′s to 1990′s)and current study(from 2000′s to now).The paper reviewed hot studies of each phase and analyzed existing defects and advised possible solutions.In conclusion,the paper suggested several ideas and new trends,one was to associate the microstructure of fabric,human skin and soft tissue with their macro-performance,and another was to establish a system which can forecast pressure comfort of garment based on dynamic mechanical interactions between human body and garment while considering the human′s physiological and psychological factors,and the final was to build an integrated system which can forecast the human′s whole sensation comfort.