Table of Content

15 April 2019, Volume 40 Issue 04

Previous Issue    Next Issue

Fiber Materials

Preparation and antibacterial properties of TiO₂-Ag/poly(lactic acid) nano-composite fibers

SUN Hui, ZHANG Hengyuan, XIAN Yulong, ZHOU Chuankai, YU Bin

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180505906

Abstract ( 729 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1881KB) ( 222 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to endow the efficient antibacterial properties for poly(lactic acid) (PLA) fiber, the various mass ratios of TiO₂-Ag/PLA nano-composite fibers were prepared by melt spinning. Moreover, TiO₂/PLA nano-composite fiber with the certain mass ratio was also prepared under the same conditions. The structure, thermal properties and antibacterial properties of the two kinds of the nano-composite fibers were investigated and contrasted. The results show that two kinds of nano-particles can uniformly dispersed in PLA matrix when the contents of the nanoparticles are no more than 3%. The addition of two nano-particles have almost no influence on the glass transition temperature and crystalline structure of PLA, whereas their cooperation in PLA matrix decreases the melting temperature and thermal stability of PLA. Furthermore, when TiO₂ nano-particles with the mass content of 3% are added, the crystalline temperature of PLA slightly reduces. The antibacterial ratio against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coil of TiO₂-Ag/PLA nano-composite fibers enhances with the increasing in the content of TiO₂-Ag. When two kinds of nano-particles with the same mass ratio are added, TiO₂-Ag/PLA nano-composite fiber has the higher antibacterial ratio against the two bacteria compared with TiO₂/PLA nano-composite fiber.

Preparation and structural properties of flame retardant poly(L-lactic acid) and fiber thereof

ZHANG Anying, WANG Zhaoying, WANG Rui, DONG Zhenfeng, WEI Lifei, WANG Deyi

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  7-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181103908

Abstract ( 709 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2228KB) ( 251 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study the flame retardancy and spinnability of poly(L-lactic acid) (PLLA), an environmentally [(6-oxo-6H-dibenzo-(c,e)(1,2)-oxaphosphorin-6-one)methyl] butanedioic acid (DDP) flame retardant PLLA system was designed. PLLA/DDP composites were prepared by twin-screw melt extrusion, and the structures and properties thereof were characterized by cone calorimetry, limiting oxygen index, vertical combustion, scanning electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetric analysis. The effect of the flame retardant content on the flame retardant properties of PLLA and the flame retardant mechanism of DDP on PLLA were also investigated. The spinning process and fiber properties at the optimum flame retardant dosage were studied. The results show that when the mass content of DDP is 9%, the LOI of the composite reaches 29% and the UL-94 test reaches grade V-0. The amount of carbon residue of the composite at 800 ℃ increases from 10.7% to 13.5%, and the composite has excellent spinnability. After the nascent fiber is stretched and heat set by 3 times, the breaking strength is 1.77 cN/dtex, and the elongation at break is 44.9%.

Influence of N,N-dimethylacetamide/CaCl₂ system on structure and properties of thermotropic liquid crystal polyarylate fibers

LIU Bingqian, SHENG Dan, PAN Heng, CAO Genyang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  15-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180506706

Abstract ( 604 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1804KB) ( 70 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the interfacial bonding property between thermotropic liquid crystal polyarylate (TLCP) fibers and matrix material while maintaining the excellent thermal and mechanical properties of TLCP fibers, TLCP/polyurethane composites were prepared by surface modification of TLCP fibers with N,N-dimethylacetamide/calcium chloride (DMAc/CaCl₂) system. The TLCP fibers before and after modification were characterized and analyzed by means of single fiber universal tester, scanning electron microscope, atomic force microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, X-ray diffraction, synchronized thermal analyzer and universal material testing machine. The results show that, after being modified with DMAc/CaCl₂, TLCP fibers have increased surface fringes, and the average roughness increases from 96.42 to 438.60 nm. The interfacial bonding property of the modified TLCP fabric/polyurethane composites is improved significantly, and the average peeling strength increases from 0.71 N/mm to 1.14 N/mm. The modified TLCP fibers have no obvious change in the molecular structure and the crystal structure, and the crystallinity reduces from 69.00% to 64.45%. When the DMAc volume fraction does not exceed 30%, the mechanical properties of the fibers are not significantly damaged.

Preparation and performance of easy cationic dye-modified polyester by solid-phase polycondensation

XIANG Guodong, GAO Qingwen, DENG Qianqian, ZHANG Xuzhen, WANG Xiuhua

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  21-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180402705

Abstract ( 682 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1497KB) ( 58 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve mechanical properties of easy cationic dye-modified polyester(ECDP) fiber, a method for improving the intrinsic viscosity of the slices was proposed. ECDP slices prepared by melt polycondensation as raw material were tackified by solid-phase polycondensation to obtain tackified slices. Ubbelohde viscometer, differential scanning calorimeter, X-ray diffractometer, fluorescence spectrometer, and thermogravimetric analyzer were employed to investigate the properties of ECDP slices. The results show that the optimum solid phase tackifying process conditions for ECDP slices are temperature of 190 ℃ and time of 9 h. The intrinsic viscosity of ECDP slices increases with the reaction temperature or reaction time, and the intrinsic viscosity is linear with the square root of time. The intrinsic viscosity of the slices tackified at 190 ℃ for 9 h is 0.69 dL/g. Under the conditions of higher than the reaction temperature or longer than the time, the surface of ECDP starts to become yellow due to thermal degradation.

Preparation and properties of guanidine-containing antibacterial polyester fibers

WANG Yan, WANG Lianjun, CHEN Jianfang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  26-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180405706

Abstract ( 676 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1947KB) ( 171 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to endue polyester fibers with more durable antibacterial properties, using zinc trifluoromethanesulfonate as the catalyst, Et₃N as the alkali agent and tetrahydrofuran as the solvent, a series of 2-amidazolidone compounds were synthesized by reacting natural amino acid ethyl ester hydrochlorides with different carbodiimides at 90 ℃. Blended antibacterial polyster fibers were prepared by melt spinning, the structure of 2-amidazolidone compounds and bacteria polyster fibers were characterized, and the properties were analyzed. The results show that the antibacterial fibers have good antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, and the antibacterial effect increases with the increase of the content of guanidine in antibacterial fibers. When the mass fraction of guanidine monomer reaches 1.5%, the greatest antibacterial effect is achieved. At the same time, the distribution of antibacterial agents in the fibers is even, and the added guanidine monomer of proper amount has little effect on the mechanical properties and dyeing and finishing of the fibers.

Preparation of graphene oxide/polyvinglidene fluoride composite filtration membrane and its filtration performance

HU Xuemin, YANG Wenxiu, LI Teng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  32-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503506

Abstract ( 692 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2055KB) ( 135 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to obtain high-filtration efficiency low-filtration resistance materials for air filtration, high performance graphene oxide/polyinglidene fluoride(PVDF) composite filtration membrane were prepared by blending graphene oxide particles into spinning solution using N,N-dimethylformamide/acetone as mixed solvents and PVDF as matrix, and electrospinning. The effects of PVDF concentration, graphene oxide concentration, electrospinning voltage and receiving distance on the morphology, filtration efficiency and filter resistance properties of high performance graphene oxide filtration membrane were discussed. The results show that under the conditions of PVDF mass fraction of 16%, graphene oxide mass fraction of 1.0%, electrospinning voltage of 29.0 kV and receiving distance of 16 cm, the prepared composite filtration membrane has good morphology and continuous and uniform fiber. The filtration efficiency of the composite filtration membrane is 99.99%, and the filtration resistance is 11.53 Pa/μm. The composite membrane has good filtering performance.

Influence of deep cryogenic treatment temperature on lithium electrical properties of SnSb/C nanofiber anode material

LIU Huijie, XIA Xin

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  38-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503906

Abstract ( 492 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1676KB) ( 117 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the electrochemical performance of SnSb/C nanofibers anodes for lithium-ion battery, the deep cryogenic treatment was used to modify the morphology of SnSb/C nanofibers, the influence of cryogenic temperature on the electrochemical performance was studied by comparing the changes of morphology, the specific surface area, the carbon contents and the charge-discharge curve of SnSb/C nanofibers. The results show that when the cryogenic temperature is -100 ℃, SnSb/C nanofiber has a rough surface with gullies. The cryogenic treatment accelerates the preoxidation reaction speed of polyacrylonitrile, so that the decomposition temperature decrease, the carbon content is up to 75.4% and the specific surface increases to 214.0 m²/g. Besides, owing to the influence of deep cryogenic treatment on the morphology of SnSb/C nanofibers, the battery capacity sustainably increases during the cycling of the lithium ion battery. After 120 cycles, the capacity retention ratio is still 123.5%.

Textile Engineering

Simulation on tensile mechanical properties of three-elementary weave woven fabrics based on ABAQUS

LIU Qiannan, ZHANG Han, LIU Xinjin, SU Xuzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  44-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180405107

Abstract ( 1082 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2116KB) ( 369 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to better understand the resisting external tensile deformation capability of the plain weave, twill and warp satin three-elementary cotton woven fabrics, a method for evaluating and predicting the tensile properties of woven fabrics was proposed. On the basis of the measured fabric structure parameters, a three-dimensional textile microscopic model was established by a professional textile modeling software Texgen. The numerical solution of the model was calculated using finite element software ABAQUS, setting material properties, interaction and boundary conditions according to the fabric stretching environment. The effectiveness of the numerical simulation was verified by the tensile test of fabric. The results show that the difference between simulation results and experimental test results on tensile stress and strain of plain weave fabric, twill fabric and warp satin fabric is within 6%. Plain weave has stronger resistance to external deformation under the same conditions of raw material, warp and weft yarn density, twist and warp and weft density.

Buffering effect of spacer fabric for multi-layer stab-resistant materials

YANG Wanqiu, LIU Xiaoyan, YU Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  51-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180605804

Abstract ( 699 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1371KB) ( 104 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to reduce the weight of stab-resistant clothing and increase the wearing comfort, stab-resistant fabric was manufactured by combining the polyester spacer fabric with the stab-resistant material. The compressing test of polyester spacer fabric and the pricking test of composite fabric were carried out. The effects of fabric thickness, density of spacer yarn and number of fabric layers on stab-resistant properties were discussed. The stab resistant effect of spacer fabric combined with the anti-stab-material and pure stab-resistant material were compared. It is found that the thicker the spacer filament is and the lower thickness of the spacer fabric is, and the better the compression property of the spacer fabric unit thickness is. When the thickness of polyester spacer fabric is 6.7 mm and the density of spacer yarn is 9 744 yarns/(0.01 m²), the buffering property is the best, which is 25.1 J/m. The buffering of unit thickness is better when the polyester spacer fabric is superimposed with two layers, energy absorption reaches 31.9 J/m. The buffering effect of the spacer fabric is better when it is placed at the bottom of the anti-stab material, and the variance of the force near the maximum value is about 50% of the pure material.

Design and properties of functional weft-knitted twill denim fabric

WAN Ailan, MIAO Xuhong, MA Pibo, CHEN Qing, CHEN Fangfang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  55-59.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180200605

Abstract ( 644 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1584KB) ( 185 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Weft-knitted twill denim fabrics were designed using polyester filament by a needle loop and two floats composite structure with six cam systems. The thermal property and moisture absorption were achieved using the special-shaped hollow warm polyester and Coolmax® fiber, without depending on the thickness and the density of the fabric to increase the warmth retention property, and improve the moisture absorption of denim fabrics and wearing comfort. By comparison with common polyester fiber, fracture strength, wear resistance, drapability and air permeability of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics were characterized. The results show that the heat preservation ratio increases by 23.4% using warm polyester, and the wicking height of horizontal direction is highly improved 4-10 times within 1-10 min with Coolmax® fiber.

Longitudinal electrical physical properties of spandex weft-knitted conductive fabric

HAN Xiaoxue, MIAO Xuhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  60-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305406

Abstract ( 582 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2052KB) ( 164 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to investigate the electrical physical properties of spandex weft-knitted conductive fabrics in the longitudinal direction, spandex yarns and silver-plated conductive yarns were used to weave three elastic weft-knitted conductive fabrics of different organizational structures with the transverse column number of 160 and the longitudinal row number of 24, 48 and 74, respectively by a knitting circular knitting machine. The resistance changes of these conductive fabrics in the tensile state were measured, and then the influences of organizational structure and number of longitudinal rows on the electrical physical properties of conductive fabrics were analyzed. The test results show that under the longitudinal stretching conditions, the electrical physical properties of the spandex knitted conductive fabric is similar to that of the spandex warp-knitted conductive fabric. When the transverse column number is the same, the smaller the longitudinal row number, the better the sensitivity of the conductive fabric. When the transverse column number and the longitudinal row number are the same, weft-knitted fabrics have the best sensitivity, followed by 1+1 mock rib fabrics and 2+1 mock rib fabrics.

Bending properties of three-dimensional I-shaped woven composites

HUANG Yaoli, LÜ Lihua, WANG Guanju

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  66-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501006

Abstract ( 670 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1955KB) ( 87 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to solve the delamination of I-shaped laminated composites under bending loads, three I-shaped three-dimensional (3-D) woven fabrics with different heights were prepared by rational design of conventional weaving process on the common loom, then I-shaped 3-D woven fabrics with three different heights were fabricated into I-shaped 3-D woven composites by vacuum assisted resin transfer moulding technology to study the mechanical characteristics of the composites. Bending experiment and ABAQUS finite element simulation were used to compare and analyze the relationship between load/energy and displacement and the bending failure mode of I-shaped 3-D woven composites with three different heights under the same loading speed, respectively. The results show that the experimental data are in good agreement with the finite element model, showing that the finite element model has high reliability and can be used to predict the mechanical properties of I-shaped 3-D woven composites with different heights, which can provide theoretical guidance for the optimization design of I-shaped 3-D woven composites with high impact damage tolerance.

Dyeing and Finishig & Chemicals

Softness treatment of ramie fibers by N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone

LI Mengzhen, ZHANG Bin, YU Chongwen

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  72-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170602605

Abstract ( 616 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1550KB) ( 87 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the softness of ramie fibers, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone(NMP)was used to treat them. The effects of NMP mass fraction, time and temperature on the mechanical properties and softness of ramie fibers were studied. Meanwhile, the ramie fibers were characterized by X-ray diffractometer, infrared spectrometer and scanning electron microscope. Results show that when the NMP mass fraction, treatment time or temperature increases, the elongation of ramie fibers increases, and the tensile strength decreases. When the NMP mass fraction or the time increases, the twisting number of ramie fiber increases first and then decreases. When temperature increases, the twisting number increases quickly and then keeps stable. The optimum treatment conditions are NMP mass fraction of 15%, time of 60 min and temperature of 80 ℃, the crystallinity of treated ramie fibers decreases from 80.37% to 70.19%, but the chemical groups remain unchanged, and cracks appear along the vertical lines on the surface of ramie fibers.

Aggregation behavior of Reactive Red 195 in neutral electrolyte solution

WANG Aming, XIA Liangjun, WANG Yunli

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  77-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180406506

Abstract ( 615 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1796KB) ( 117 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study the aggregation behavior of Reactive Red 195 and its effect on dye uptake, six neutral electrolytes with different concentrations were added into the Reactive Red 195 dye solution. The aggregation behaviors of Reactive Red 195 in different electrolyte solutions were studied by means of UV-Vis spectrophotometer and laser particle size analyzer, and the influence of different electrolytes on the dye uptake of Reactive Red 195 was investigated. The results show that with the increase of the electrolyte concentration, the degree of dye aggregation increases. At room temperature, the degree of influence of the six metal ions on dye aggregation is Al³⁺ > Ca²⁺ > Mg²⁺ > K⁺ > Na⁺ > Li⁺. The degree of dye aggregation is enhanced with the increase in ionic radius and valence of metal ions. Among them, the valence of metal ions is the main factor influencing dye aggregation. During dyeing process, the dye uptake is enhanced with the increase of dye aggregation.

Ultrasonic treatment of Modal fiber dyed with madder

LI Yang, ZHANG Yuanming, JIANG Wei, ZHANG Jianming, WANG Sishe, SU Jianjun, HAN Guangting

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  83-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171103207

Abstract ( 546 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2166KB) ( 79 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the spinnability of the Modal fiber dyed with madder, ultrasonic treatment was employed to remove the attached particulate matters on the surface of the dyed fibers. The influence of ultrasonic power density, temperature and time on the removal of particulate matters was discussed by single factor test. The experimental factors and levels were selected on the basis of the single factor experiment. The effects of the variates and their interactions on the removal of attached particulate matters on the dyed fiber surface were then studied by the Box-Behnken experiment. The results show that ultrasonic temperature has the greatest effect on the removal of particulate matters on the surface of the fiber, and the influence of power density is the least. The prediction model of regression equation obtained by using Design Expert software has a predictive effect on industrialization. The optimum conditions for the ultrasonic particle removal are as follows: ultrasonic power density of 0.67 W/cm², ultrasonic temperature of 43 ℃ and ultrasonic time of 22 min.

Preparation of composite conductive cotton fabric based on carbon nanotubes by layer-by-layer self-assembly

FAN Jingjing, WANG Hongbo, FU Jiajia, WANG Wencong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  90-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180203706

Abstract ( 545 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1835KB) ( 81 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to develop conductive cotton fabrics and improve the conductivity of the cotton fabrics, carboxylated carbon nanotubes and aminated carbon nanotubes were used in conductive finishing of cotton fabrics by layer-by-layer self-assembly. Using the conductivity as an index, the concentration of carboxylated carbon nanotubes and aminated carbon nanotubes, the assembly time and the assembly layer number were optimized by single factor analysis. Under the optimized process conditions, the surface morphology, chemical structure and washing fastness of the composite conductive cotton fabrics were investigated. The results show that when the concentration of carboxylated carbon nanotubes and aminated carbon nanotubes is 1.5 mg/mL respectively, the assembly time is 15 min and the assembly number is 8, the conductivity of the composite conductive cotton fabric is 3.42 S/m, proving that the composite conductive cotton fabric has good conductivity. The conductivity can reach 2.88 S/m after washing for 10 times, showing that the composite conductive cotton fabric has good washing fastness.

Preparation of antistatic hot melt adhesive and its application in coated nonwoven fabric

WANG Zongqian, WANG Dengfeng, WANG Mingrong, SHEN Jieliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  96-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180506107

Abstract ( 687 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2124KB) ( 98 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the antistatic property of polyethylene/polypropylene(PE/PP) coated nonwoven fabric, the antistatic composite hot melt adhesive (composite adhesive) was prepared by blending the macromolecule antistatic agent with the modified rosin resin hot melt adhesive, and used for the spray-coating process of PE/PP nonwoven fabrics. The effect of the amount of antistatic agent on the melt viscosity of the composite adhesive was discussed, and its thermal stability was analyzed as well. Then, the influence of the composite adhesive on the antistatic property of the coated nonwoven fabrics was tested and compared. The results show that with the increase of the antistatic agent concentration, the melt viscosity of the composite adhesive will gradually decrease and then stabilize. The thermal stability of the composite adhesive decreases in the high temperature zone, but it is not affected in the melt state. The charge transfer and leakage network is constructed by the penetration of the composite adhesive into PP nonwoven, PE film and their outer surfaces, which improves the antistatic property of the coated nonwoven fabric. The improvement of the antistatic property is positively correlated to the concentration of antistatic agent in the composite adhesive. A certain antistatic property of coated nonwoven fabric is maintained after washing for 5 times.

Apparel Engineering

Generation of personalized garment pattern based on AutoCAD parameterization

YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  103-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180502508

Abstract ( 1185 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (2081KB) ( 348 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to solve low production efficiency of garment pattern, repetitive work of pattern modification, and incapability of adapting well to personalized needs in the field of garment making, a new method for rapid creation of personalized garment patterns based on parametric plate making was proposed. Firstly, the double arc was used to fit the garment pattern contour curve, and combined with the parameterization function of AutoCAD, the parameterized curve constraint model was constructed. Based on this, a parameterized garment pattern was established. The results show that the double arc can accurately fit the clothing contour curve. The parametric curve restraining methods are versatile and flexible, and can adapt to all garment pattern contour curves. The parameterized garment pattern established by this method has good stability, and any parameter thereof can be modified, and pattern modification is highly efficient, intuitive and convenient, which greatly improves the efficiency of personalized garment pattern generation.

Application of BP neural network in prediction of shapewear pressure

ZHOU Jie, MA Qiurui

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  111-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601407

Abstract ( 647 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1939KB) ( 154 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to predict underwear pressure when wearing shapewear, a prediction method based on neural network was proposed. A total of 26 female college students wore the shapewear of the same brand, and were asked to perform four poses. The pressure values at 20 body points of each subject were measured, respectively. Two different BP neural network toolbox functions were used to establish the pressure prediction models. The relationships between the pressure values and five body measurements were analyzed. The prediction results were tested and compared while using the two different toolbox functions and different input values. The results show that the method based on neural network does not need complicated calculation process. By this method, five body measurement values can be directly used to predict the pressure value of shapewear. The prediction accuracy of the newff function is superior to that of the feedforwardnet function. The accuracy of the prediction of pressure in the two standing poses is better than that in the two sitting poses. When taking the pressure values of standing pose and five body measurements as input values, the pressure values of the other three poses can be predicted with the accuracy over 82%.

Classification of women’s trousers silhouette using convolution neural network CaffeNet model

WU Huan, DING Xiaojun, LI Qinman, DU Lei, ZOU Fengyuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  117-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603205

Abstract ( 844 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1578KB) ( 154 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the complicated calculation of clothing silhouette classification feature extraction and poor classification effect, a classification approach of clothing silhouette based on the CaffeNet model of convolution neural network was proposed. Taking women’s trousers as an example, a sample database of five kinds of women’s trousers with silhouette was established at first, comprising saggy pants, broad-legged pants, flared trousers, pencil pants and straight pants, then shape features were extracted automatically from the clothing images using the alternating convolution and pool layers, weight values were updated by back propagation algorithm layer by layer, the gradient descent method was adopted and the parameter of the whole connection layer was modified to minimize loss function, and Softmax regression was used to classify the women’s trousers silhouette. The experimental results show that the novel approach can classify the silhouette of women’s trousers accurately, and the classification accuracy is up to 95%. It can provide an effective way for visual classification and recognition of clothing products.

Machinery & Accessories

Detaching roller drive mechanism of a comber based on hybrid-driven

YANG Haipeng, LI Xinrong, LÜ Pengfei, WANG Zhenyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  122-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180403607

Abstract ( 577 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1872KB) ( 119 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the problem of the speed limit of the vibration of the mechanical detaching roller drive mechanism of the comber, the scheme of the single-drive detaching roller of the dual servo motor was proposed. First of all, according to the requirement of the combing technology, based on the idea of least square method, a curve was optimized to fit the displacement key points in the moving state of the detaching roller, and it satisfied the rule of the detaching roller motion. Secondly, based on the idea of hybrid-drive, the motion law was reasonably distributed to two power sources. Finally, virtual prototype was established in Adams environment for simulation analysis and was verified by experiment. The research results show that this scheme can accurately realize the motion law of the separation roller. The maximum angular acceleration of the two servo motors decreases by 72.05% compared with that of the single servo motor, which is beneficial to reduce energy consumption. The design eliminates the limitation in speed due to the vibration of mechanical structure. The speed can be adjusted according to different kinds of cotton, which increases the flexibility of the mechanism.

Noise source identification of high-speed motion mechanism of textile equipment based on near-field acoustic holography method

XU Yang, LI Ang'ang, SHENG Xiaowei, SUN Zhijun

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  129-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501806

Abstract ( 490 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1808KB) ( 56 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to identify the noise source of the upmarket textile equipment and realize the low frequency noise control, the tufted carpet loom was used as an example to accurately locate the main sound generating mechanism. First, the overall sound source position of the loom was identified by using the statistical optimal near-field acoustic holography (SONAH) combined with the Hald empirical formula. In view of the noise aliasing phenomenon produced by multiple sound generating mechanisms under the working state of loom, the Tikhonov regularization algorithm was used to solve the discomfort problem caused by the measurement error in the reconstruction process. The generalized cross validation method was adopted to select the optimal regularization coefficient so as to improve the accuracy of reconstructed image and obtain the sound intensity nephogram of local region sound source of the tufting carpet loom. The results show that the method is suitable for the identification of the tufted carpet loom's noise source, in which the motor in the coupling shafting parts is the main noise source of the tufted carpet loom, providing the theoretical support for the active noise reduction of loom.

Analysis on airflow field in extended nozzle of air jet loom

GUANG Shaobo, JIN Yuzhen, ZHU Xiaochen

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  135-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180400306

Abstract ( 628 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1685KB) ( 51 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve weft insertion performance of air-jet loom, the structure and parameters of extended nozzle were optimized. The influence of different structures and parameters of the extended nozzle on the airflow velocity and stability of the airflow field in the guide tube of the extended nozzle was studied by means of numerical simulation analysis and Fluent software. The results show that the optimum distance between the last auxiliary nozzle outlet and the weft inlet of the extended nozzle is about 60 mm, too large or too small distance will lead to the decrease of the axial airflow velocity in the guide tube, and the optimum distance between the extended nozzle inlet and the weft inlet is about 30 mm, too small distance will cause the airflow field in the guide tube unstable, and too large distance will cause the speed increase in the guide tube not obviously. When the spray angle of the extended nozzle is about 10°, the air flow field in the guide tube is relatively stable.

Spectral reflectance piecewise partition model for characterizing digital inkjet printer

TIAN Quanhui, GU Ping, ZHU Ming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  140-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305205

Abstract ( 422 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1318KB) ( 35 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the quality of color reproduction of digital inkjet printing, this paper studied the spectral characteristics of the printer which is the key technology for the textile inkjet printing, and presented a spectral reflectance piecewise partition model (SRPPM) for characterizing digital textile inkjet printing. Based on the nonlinear relationship between the 31 dimensional spectral reflectance and the digital driving data of the ink-jet printer, the model partitioned according to the reflectance band, used the nonlinear high order polynomial to fit the characteristic conversion coefficient between the output driving data and the color spectral reflectance in different bands, and applied the spectral characteristics of the digital inkjet printer by the obtained conversion matrix. Experimental results with skill textile show that the 90% spectral errors of testing color samples are less than 0.001 2, the maximum spectral error is 0.001 9, and the average spectral error is 0.000 8. While the 90% color differences of testing color samples are less than 1.0 NBS, the maximum value is 5.709 9 NBS and the average value is 0.570 0 NBS.

Research and implementation of standard system architecture of textile intelligent manufacturing

ZHOU Yaqin, WANG Junliang, BAO Jinsong, ZHANG Jie

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  145-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180104307

Abstract ( 814 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1954KB) ( 128 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

The establishment of the textile intelligent manufacturing standard system structure is of great significance for the rapid development of production equipment, system integration, production execution and intelligent transformation of finished product circulation in the textile production process. Based on an in-depth analysis of the common technologies and standardization requirements of textile intelligent manufacturing, this paper designed a textile intelligent manufacturing standard system architecture, which consists of common technologies and standards, key technical standards and new models of textile intelligent manufacturing. Among the key technical standards, intelligent workshops and factories are critical to realize textile intelligent manufacturing. The whole life cycle of textile products were further considered, and the textile intelligent manufacturing factory structure was constructed from the aspects of textile resource elements, system integration, interconnection, information fusion, manufacturing execution and operation analysis. Finally, taking a high-end knitted fabric manufacturer in Shanghai as an example, a four-level knitting production intelligent control standard structure was constructed, comprising the whole process specification of knitted fabric production, the interconnection network structure of production equipment, the data structure specification and the weaving, dyeing and finishing control. Moreover the equipment real-time monitoring and anomaly detection, the textile process quality analysis and process optimization, the textile production planning and scheduling typical application scenario process were analyzed.

Management & Information

Defect detection of cheese yarn based on multi-scale multi-direction template convolution

CAI Yichao, ZHOU Xiao, SONG Mingfeng, MOU Xin'gang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  152-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501206

Abstract ( 583 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2154KB) ( 113 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the hard defect detection due to coarse and irregular texture element of cheese yarn, a novel cheese yarn surface defects detection algorithm based on multiscale multi-direction template convolution was proposed. Firstly, the image of top textile of cheese yarn was acquired by the system. Secondly, the OTSU threshold method and the ellipse circle fitting method were used to determine the position of the textile region of cheese yarn. Then, the polar coordinate transformation was used to expand the ring-shape surface to a rectangle. After that, the one-dimensional difference of Gaussian operator in horizontal direction was used to extract the edge. Multiple scale edge images were extracted by varying the standard deviation of Gauss kernel. Furthermore, the angle range of 0° to 180° was quantified into several directional template images used to convolute with edge images, then the maximum convolution result of each pixel in among all scales was elected by voting method. Finally, the defects were segmented out from the maximum correlation image by an empirical threshold according to prior information. The experiment results show that the method can effectively detect the net-yarn surface defects, and the recognition accuracy reaches 96%.

Depth learning method for suit detection in images

LIU Zhengdong, LIU Yihan, WANG Shouren

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  158-164.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180504707

Abstract ( 816 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2388KB) ( 165 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to classify and detect the suit target in images of e-commerce platform accurately and quickly, an enhanced deep convolution network (DN-SSD) was proposed. First, three main frameworks faster region-convolutional networks (faster R-CNN), region-based fully convolution network(R-FCN) and single shot muti-box detection(SSD) were evaluated. An image was segmented into multiscale sub-images to highlight the suit target based on the SSD. Secondly, the problem of small target recognition was solved by the fusion of classification. The scene adaptability was enhanced by increasing number of negative samples. The experimental result shows that the algorithm can recognize various shapes and size of suit targets and achieves the accuracy over 90%. The method can also be generalized to other style of dress detection and location.

Features of professional female fashion consumption in Beijing

WANG Siyu, NING Jun

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  165-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604005

Abstract ( 717 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1558KB) ( 105 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study the behavioral characteristics of municipal professional females in fashion consumption, based on the analysis of fashion consumption reports and theoretical research in recent years, this paper adopted factor analysis, correlation analysis, and other empirical analysis methods to explore professional women's fashion choice and consumption psychology in Beijing area by means of questionnaire survey. It is found that professional women of different ages and different education backgrounds have different fashion trends. With the increase in income, the range of brand choices is also expanded, so that women consumers have the capability of selecting products showing their unique personality. The consumer psychology reflected by female consumers' fashion consumption behaviors are pursuit of trend, herd mentality, personality expression, self-care, information sensitivity. Fashion consumption has gradually become a way of life for female consumers.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of horseradish peroxidase in bio-finishing of fiber materials

ZHOU Buguang, WANG Ping, WANG Qiang, FAN Xuerong, YUAN Jiugang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  170-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180300407

Abstract ( 877 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1956KB) ( 135 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Considering the defects that chemical finishing on fiber materials has large energy consumption and potential fiber damages, enzymatic finishing of fiber materials under mild treating conditions were suggested. The oxidation mechanism of the ternary catalyst system of horseradish peroxidase (HRP), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) and β-diketone initiator acetylacetone (ACAC) were introduced, and its applications in bio-modifications of starch size, jute, silk protein were reviewed as follows. Methyl acrylate was graft copolymerized with starch to improve its film forming property onto the hydrophobic fibers. Acrylamide and hexafluorobutyl methacrylate were applied to modify jute fiber by enzymatic graft-copolymerization, respectively, realizing the hydrophilic or hydrophobic modification of jute fiber. Acrylic acid was used to enzymatically graft copolymerized onto silk fibroin to enhance the biomimetic mineralization effect of fibroin-based biomaterial. Furthermore, HRP-mediated graft copolymerization of methyl methacrylate onto silk sericin was also investigated to improve the formability of sericin-based biomaterials. In conclusion, HRP exhibits potential applications in bio-finishing of textile fibers and preparation of biomaterials.

Review on novel halogen-free polymer flame retardants

LI Qianglin, HUANG Fangqian, XIAO Xiuchan, QIU Cheng, WU Juzhen

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(04):  177-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180203008

Abstract ( 831 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2494KB) ( 219 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the durability and washable resistance of flame retardant textiles, and avoid the generation of secondary pollutants such as dioxins and hydrogen halides at high temperature for conventional halogenated flame retardants, using halogen-free polymer flame retardant is one of the effective methods. This paper systematically described a series of branched, linear and crosslinked polymer flame retardants and their monomers containing flame retardant elements such as phosphorus, nitrogen and silicon. The types, structures, synthesis, properties and applications of polymer flame retardants such as phosphates (phosphonates), phosphoramides (phosphonamides), phosphorus-containing polysiloxane and bio-based flame retardants were mainly introduced. The current problems of flame retardants for textiles were analyzed. It was pointed out that the durable flame retardant should focus on the synthesis of eco-friendly flame retardants with high phosphorus-nitrogen content and high reactivity, and should increase the research on synergistic mechanism of multi-component compounds, and accelerate the research direction of modern physical finishing technology research.