Table of Content

15 May 2022, Volume 43 Issue 05

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Invited Column: Expert Opinion of the 11th China Textile Academic Conferenc

Preparation and properties of single-layer and parallel silk fibroin fiber patterns with cell adhesion contrast properties

GU Zhanghong, YAO Xiang, WANG Jinsi, ZHANG Yaopeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211109306

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Aiming at the interference of various background adhesion when investigating the influence of fiber characteristics on cell behavior, a substrate with anti-cell adhesion property was obtained by grafting of oligo-ethylene glycol silylation reagent on the surface of glass. The parallel single-layer silk fibroin (SF) fibers with cell adhesion property were prepared using wet spinning technology on the surface of the substrate, and the two ends of SF fibers were fixed on modified substrate by polydimethylsiloxane to prepare single-layer and parallel arranged fiber patterns. The diameter, surface morphology, structural component of SF fibers and fiber spacing in the constructed fiber patterns were characterized, and L929 was taken as an example to verify corresponding cell adhesion contrast properties of the constructed fiber patterns. Results show that the SF fibers with different diameters present similar morphological features and secondary structure contents. After cell seeding, the cells can only adhere to the surface of SF fibers, but not to the background substrate, confirming excellent cell adhesion contrast properties of the fiber patterns.

Research progress in key technologies of spun yarn warp knitting production

JIANG Gaoming, CHENG Bilian, WAN Ailan, LI Bingxian

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  7-11.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206706

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In view of the problems of low strength, high hairiness, small elongation, high twist and high cost in warp knitting production using spun fiber yarns, the warping technology, high-speed production technology, clean production technology, intelligent production and fully formed warp knitting production technology in the production of spun yarn warp knitting were summarized in this paper. By summarizing the yarn quality requirements of spun yarn for warp knitting, including yarn breaking strength, surface hairiness and elongation properties, the problems and solutions of spun yarn warp knitting technology were further analyzed. Through introducing the application status and production situation of spun yarn warp knitted products in the fields of shirt fabrics, underwear fabrics, trousers and lace fabrics, the future development direction of spun yarn warp knitted technology was prospected, pointing out that the production technology of spun yarn warp knitting is gradually going towards specialization, high quality and functionality.

Dyeing properties of polylactic acid/polyketone fibers with disperse dye

CHEN Peng, LIAO Shihao, SHEN Lanping, WANG Xuan, WANG Peng

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  12-17.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206506

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To improve dyeing performance of polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, Disperse Blue 79 was used to dye polylactic acid/polyketone (PLA/PK) blend fibers. The influence of dyeing temperature, time, pH value and other factors were investigated, with the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic behavior analyzed. The optimal processing parameters were identified, which are dyeing temperature of 110 ℃, holding time of 40 min, and pH value of 5. With increased PK content, the K/S value of the blend fibers increases significantly and the color fastness to rubbing and soaping remains over level 3,the equilibrium adsorption amount of Disperse Blue 79 dye on the blend fiber increases, the half dyeing time decreases, and the diffusion coefficient increases, further confirming the improved dyeing properties of the blend fiber. The adsorption isotherms of Disperse Blue 79 dye to PLA fiber and blended fibers are calculated by fitting, showing a composite curve of Nernst and Langmuir.

One-bath pad dyeing technology for polyester/cotton fabric

LIU Yu, XIE Ruyi, SONG Yawei, QI Yuanzhang, WANG Hui, FANG Kuanjun

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  18-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211109108

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To solve the problems of process complexity, high water and energy consumption, high carbon and waste water emissions in dyeing process of polyester/cotton fabric, a disperse/reactive dye one-bath two-step pad dyeing method of polyester/cotton was investigated. The stability of disperse/reactive mixed dye solution in different pH conditions was analyzed. The effects of baking temperature, baking time, pH, type and concentration of alkali, steaming time on fabric dyeing were discussed using Disperse Blue 79 and K, KN and M Reactive Dyes. The energy consumption of the one-bath pad dyeing process and traditional process were evaluated and compared. The results show that fabrics dyed using the one-bath two-step method achieve the same color depth compared with the traditional dyeing process. The rubbing fastness and washing fastness reach grade 4-5. Take Disperse Blue 79 and Reactive Blue 19 for example, compared with the traditional two-bath pad dyeing process, the one-bath pad dyeing process reduces water consumption by 45.5%, electricity consumption by 20.9%, heat consumption by 41.7% and CO₂ emission by 40.6% per 10 000 m of polyester/cotton fabric.

Preparation and printing properties of castor oil-based UV-curable water-based coating ink

QI Dongming, FAN Gaoqing, YU Yihao, FU Ye, ZHANG Yan, CHEN Zhijie

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  26-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206006

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Waterborne polyurethane emulsions were prepared aiming at difficulty in achieve good handle and fastness through the traditional coat printing. This emulsion was produced by condensing castor oil, isophorone diisocyanate, and 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)butyric acid, using pentaerythritol triacrylate as a capping agent, for improved dispersibility, water resistance, and bonding fastness. Castor oil-based ultraviolet (UV)-curable waterborne coating inks were obtained by adding nano-pigments to the waterborne polyurethane emulsions. The effect and mechanism of castor oil content on the emulsion particle size, cured film performance, and water resistance were studied and analyzed. Subsequently, the castor oil-based UV-curable water-based coating ink was sprayed on polyester plain fabrics, and the surface morphology, stiffness and wet and dry friction fastness of the printed fabrics were comparatively characterized. The results obtained showed that the ink-jet printed fabric has good flexibility and color fastness under the optimum amount of castor oil 42.1%.

Structural coloration of polystyrene/iron-tannin acid complex nanospheres on cotton fabrics

ZHU Xiaowei, WEI Tianchen, LI Yijiang, XING Tieling, CHEN Guoqiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  32-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206406

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It is known that dopamine structurally colored fabrics is expensive and time-consuming. To address this problem, tannic acid was used in this research to replace dopamine for quickly achieving the structural color effect. PS/iron-tannin acid complex (PS/TA-Fe³⁺) nanospheres was prepared, which was used to construct random close-packed amorphous photonic arrays on the surface of cotton fabrics by gravity deposition. Polystyrene (PS) microspheres, PS/TA-Fe³⁺ nanospheres and structurally colored fabrics was characterized by Malvern nanoparticle size analyzer, field emission electron microscope, transmission electron microscope and angle-resolved spectrometer. The appropriate addition of tannins acid and Fe³⁺ were explored, and the arrangement of PS/TA-Fe³⁺ nanospheres on the surface of structurally colored fabrics, the structural colors and structural stability of PS/TA-Fe³⁺ coatings were characterized. The results show that when the amount of tannic acid is 10% and the molar ratio of tannic acid and Fe³⁺ is 10:1, the prepared PS/TA-Fe³⁺ microspheres appear to have uniform particle size and good mono-dispersity. The prepared fabric displayed soft, bright and angle-independent structural color, demonstrating good washing and rubbing durability.

Preparation of binary thermochromic microcapsules and application in smart textiles

WANG Chengcheng, GONG Xiaodan, WANG Zhen, MA Qunwang, ZHANG Liping, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  38-42.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211108105

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Aiming at large temperature range and serious hysteresis of the temperature-response microcapsules, a fast response binary thermochromic complex was prepared by mixing fluorane dye with amide group and hexadecanol uniformly. The apparent morphology of the highly sensitive thermochromic microcapsules were studied by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope and thermogravimetric analyzer. Color changing smart textiles were developed with strong temperature sensitivity, and the morphology characteristics of smart textiles and color performance were studied. The results show that the size of the prepared highly sensitive thermosensitive color-changing microcapsules is 1 μm, and the core material load was about 65%, with satisfactory thermal stability. The prepared smart textiles with high sensitivity and temperature change have bright color, and the color change range is 40-42 ℃. The color change lag of heating and cooling process is less than 1 ℃ and the color change sensitivity is high.

Research progress in chemical recycling of waste cotton and polyester textiles

CHEN Long, ZHOU Zhe, ZHANG Jun, XU Shimei, NI Yanpeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  43-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211201806

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A large number of waste cotton and polyester textiles are produced in China, but the recycling rate is low and high quality products are rare. Focusing on this problem, the recycling of waste cotton and polyester fabrics based on chemical recycling was reviewed. The technology of waste cotton pulp preparation and its fiber spinning, the monomer preparation from the depolymerization of waste polyester and its polymerization were examined. The literature review indicated that the small-scale production of waste cotton was involved in the making of regenerated Lyocell fibers by mixing low proportion of waste cotton regenerated pulp with the primary wood pulp, and that 10 000-ton scale production of chemically regenerated polyethylene terephthalate(PET) from waste PET textiles has been achieved through glycol alcoholysis-methanol ester exchange technology. However, there are still problems such as technical difficulties, high production cost, low recovery and utilization rate, poor product quality, and high degree of " waste production caused by waste treatment ". Hence, key technology development for waste textile recycling should be the focus of research emphasizing on clean recycling and high value utilization of waste cotton and polyester textiles.

Progress in recycling waste natural fiber textiles and high-value utilization strategy

FAN Wei, LIU Hongxia, LU Linlin, DOU Hao, SUN Yanli

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  49-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220103408

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In order to improve the recycling rate of waste natural fiber textiles and reduce environmental pollution and resource waste, the current recycling technologies of waste natural fiber textiles were reviewed from four perspectives,i.e. physical method, chemical method, biological method and energy method. The research progress and suitable types and grades of waste textiles for each method were analyzed. In view of the complex components of waste textiles, unclear structure-activity relationship, high recycling cost, low added value and poor consumer acceptance of recycling products, this review proposes to emphasize breakthroughs in sorting and identification technology of waste textiles, structure-activity relationship, low-cost recycling technology, high-value recycling strategy, policies and regulations on the promotion and use of recycling products in future studies, in order to promote the industrialization pace of waste natural fiber textiles.

Fiber Materials

Preparation and properties of hexamethylenetetramine cross-linked phenolic fibers

ZHAO Bobo, WANG Liang, LI Jingyu, WAN Gang, XIA Zhaopeng, LIU Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  57-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500406

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Aiming at the problem that the aldehyde crosslinking agent is harmful to the human body and the environment during the preparation of phenolic fibers, hexamethylenetetramine (HMTA) was used as crosslinking agent to prepare phenolic fiber in hydrochloric acid solution. The effects of crosslinking bath ratio, heating rate, crosslinking bath temperature and heat treatment temperature on the fiber mechanical properties and heat resistance were studied. The results show that the mechanical properties and thermal stability of phenolic fiber are greatly improved after crosslinked. The pre-crosslinked phenolic fiber was prepared under the condition that the mass ratio of HCl and HMTA is 1.2, the temperature of cross-linking bath is raised to 120 ℃ at a heating rate of 15 ℃/h and constant temperature for 1.5 h, and the cross-linked phenolic fiber obtained by treating at 200 ℃ in a vacuum atmosphere for 2 h. The maximum breaking strength of the cross-linked phenolic fibers reaches to 3.63 cN/dtex and breaking elongation is 7.7% respectively. The initial decomposition temperature reaches to 386 ℃ and the mass retention rate at 900 ℃ in a nitrogen atmosphere is 60.7%. The method used in this research for preparing phenolic fiber with HMTA as cross-linking agent has guiding significance for establishing the green and environmentally friendly production process route.

Influence of nanofiber membrane wettability on gas-liquid filtration performance of sandwiched composite filters

CHEN Feng, JI Zhongli, YU Wenhan, DONG Wuqiang, WANG Qianlin, WANG Deguo

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  63-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210701908

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In order to improve the gas-liquid filtration performance of nanofibers membrane, nanofibers membrane with different material components were prepared by electrospinning, and sandwiched composite filters were created when combining such nanofibers membrane with glass fiber substrates with different degrees of wettability. The influence of the nanofiber membrane wettability on the gas-liquid filtration performance of composite filter was analyzed, and the relationship between the wettability of glass fiber substrates and nanofibers membrane was studied. The results show that after the nanofibers membrane are added to the oleophilic substrate, the filtration efficiency for submicron droplets increases by 11.9% when compared to the original glass fiber substrates, and the quality factor increases with the increase of nanofiber membrane wettability. The steady-state pressure drop increases significantly after adding nanofibers membrane to the oleophobic glass fiber substrate, but the quality factors for submicron and micron droplets both decrease even when the filtration efficiency also increases greatly, with the highest decrease of 57% and 63% respectively when compared to the original glass fiber substrates. The filtration performance of the composite filter material is controlled by the substrate wettability. The comprehensive filtration performance is improved only when the substrate filter located on the leeward side is oleophilic.

Physical model and effects of electric field on jets in polymer melt differential electrospinning

CHEN Mingjun, LI Haoyi, YANG Weimin

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  70-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210404707

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In order to study the influence of electric field intensity and material of receiving device on the jet efficiency and jet distribution uniformity in needleless electrospinning, a linear slot melt differential electrospinning device was proposed. The effects of the maximum electric field intensity and ionization charge on the jet density and distribution uniformity were studied by changing the electrostatic voltage and material of receiving device. The results showed that the jets efficiency and uniformity increased with increasing the electric field intensity at the spinneret. When the local voltage at the receiving end is higher than that of nozzle end, the ionized ions showed macroscopically a movement towards the nozzle end, which would result in the loss of melt-jets, and even inhibition of the jet formation. Laying a paper with resistance of 2.7×10⁵ Ω at the high-voltage collection can effectively redistribute the ionization charge in the spinning space uniformly, therefor eliminating the phenomenon of jet loss caused by local ion flow. Laying a sheet of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) with resistance greater than 1.0×10¹¹ Ω at the high-voltage collection would increase the resistance of spinning circuit and result in the accumulation of charge on the PET. Therefore, the electric field strength at the nozzle end was weakened and jets efficiency decreased.

Preparation of MnO_x/carbon nanofiber membrane free-standing cathodes for zinc ion battery based on electrochemical deposition and their electrochemical characteristics

YANG Ke, YAN Jun, XIAO Yong, XU Jing, CHEN Lei, LIU Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  77-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504109

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To develop cathode materials for rechargeable zinc ion batteries (ZIBs) with excellent performance and a simple preparation process, electrospun nanofiber membranes were used as precursors to prepare carbon nanofiber films (CNFs) by pre-oxidation and high-temperature carbonization. MnO_x/CNFs composites with the skin-core structure were prepared by using electrochemical deposition method with CNFs as substrate. The effects of electrochemical deposition time on the surface morphology, specific surface area, cyclic charge-discharge stability, and rate performance of MnO_x/CNFs composites were discussed. The results show that the electrochemical deposition method promotes a good interfacial bonding between the loaded active material and the CNFs substrate and improves the ion and electron transport capacity at the interface. The specific capacity can reach 647.9 mA·h/g after the activation at the current density of 0.1 A/g. In addition, the ZIBs with MnO_x/CNFs cathode via depositing MnO_x for 2 h show the specific capacity of 221.8 mA·h/g after 500 cycles under the current density of 0.5 A/g. After cycling of charging and discharging at the current density of 2 A/g, 94% of the initial capacity can still be restored at the current density of 0.1 A/g, which represent excellent performance of MnO_x/CNFs cathode.

Textile Engineering

Electrothermal properties of functionalization carbon nanotube composite films and films twisted yarns

YAO Mingyuan, LIU Ningjuan, WANG Jianing, XU Fujun, LIU Wei

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  86-91.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210606406

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Carbon nanotubes(CNT) have excellent electrical properties. In order to better applied it's performance to electrothermal fabric, the CNT films twisted yarn was prepared by twisting CNT film. The electrothermal properties of the yarn was further optimized by pre-spraying poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene)/poly(styrenesulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS)solution. The influence of the solution concentration on the structure and conductivity of CNT film and its films twisted yarns were studied, as well as the temperature changes of CNT film and its films twisted yarns under different applied voltage. As the PEDOT:PSS mass fraction increased from 0.01% to 1.4%, the conductivity of the sprayed CNT film gradually increased from 344.2 S/cm to 668.9 S/cm. When the electric voltage was applied across it, the spinning temperature of PC films twisted yarns can reach 214 ℃ with a response time of 5 s, which is 1.6 times of its untwisted films. That's indicates the good application potential and development value of the PEDOT:PSS/CNT film twisted yarn.

Effect of moisture regain on strength of quartz yarns before and after weaving

YU Pengju, WANG Lili, ZHANG Wenqi, LIU Yang, LI Wenbin

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  92-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210700805

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In order to study the factors affecting the strength of quartz yarns, the cross-sectional morphology of quartz fiber was characterized, the tensile properties of quartz yarns with different moisture regains and linear densities before and after weaving were tested, and the effects of warping, shedding as well as beat-up on the mechanical properties of quartz yarns were also investigated. The influence of the sizing agent on the mechanical properties of the quartz fiber was also explored. The results show that the tensile strength of quartz yarn significantly decreases with the increase of moisture regain. When the moisture regain of 95 tex quartz fiber yarn is 100%, the tensile strength decreases by 41% compared with 0%. The decrease of tensile strength of 95 tex quartz fabric that was woven under 1.0% moisture regain is as high as 60.94%. The addition of sizing agent can enhance the quartz fiber strength. When the 390 tex quartz fiber yarn is added with 100% sizing agent, the yarn strength increases by 17%. The hydrolyzing of silica and the hygroscopicity of wetting agent are the main reasons for the decrease of the strength of quartz fiber.

Lightness prediction method for shaded satin fabrics based on image reconstruction of light and shadow

ZHENG Wenjie, ZHANG Aidan

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  97-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500207

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In order to obtain the brightness value of shaded satin fabrics more accurately, a lightness prediction method based on the shadow reconstruction of fabric image was proposed. The fabric image was separated into three layers: warp and weft graphic layer, shadow layer and texture layer, and the actual color values of the warp and the weft yarn were assigned to the relative area of the three separated image layers when their pixel numbers were counted respectively. After the fabric image brightness value were reconstructed by adding the lightness values, fitting analysis were implemented between the reconstructed one and the actual color measurement data of the fabric. According to the analysis results, the warp and weft area rate, shadow area rate and texture area rate were selected as the independent variables. A regression model for the lightness prediction of the fabric was established based on the three independent variables, and random samples were selected to test the accuracy of the model. The results show that the proximity between the lightness of the warp and weft graphic layer and the measured lightness is 0.15, and the proximity increases from 0.76 to 0.89 when the shadow layer and material layer are added in sequence. The overall relative error of the fabric lightness prediction by the model is within ±4%, the prediction results can be used as references for the design of the fabric with shaded weaves.

Effect of tightness of colored knitted fabrics on color prediction

YANG Liu, LI Yujia, ZHANG Xin, HE Wenjing, TONG Shenghao, MA Lei, ZHANG Yi, ZHANG Ruiyun

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  104-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505605

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In order to improve color prediction modeling, this research took fabric tightness into consideration, and then the influence of the tightness of the fiber-colored knitted fabric on the color prediction was studied. Red and blue pre-colored fibers were used to produce knitted fabrics with different tightness. The fabric surface porosity was used to describe the fabric tightness, and Stearns-Noechel model, one of the most commonly used color prediction models, was selected to predict the color of fabrics. When computing the unknown parameter M in the prediction model, the value of M corresponding to the minimum predicted color difference was selected as the optimal parameter. The results show that when the fabric tightness was not added, the M values obtained were smaller than that of the M_p which were computed when the fabric tightness value was added. When the fabric structures were the same and the tightness of the fabric gradually decreased, the M values hardly change (0.226 5-0.221 6), whereas M_p increased gradually (0.292 1-0.347 1). When the sinking depth of yarns was kept constantly, the M values increased as the fabric became tighter, but the changing of M_p is not obvious. It was obvious that the predicted average color difference became smaller after adding the fabric tightness as a constant into calculation of M.

Effect of far infrared polyamide fabrics on proliferation of breast cancer cells

MU Yifei, JIN Zimin, YAN Yuxiu, WU Dehao, ZHOU Wenlong, TAO Jianwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  109-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210502907

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In order to explore the adjuvant effect of far-infrared fabrics on breast cancer patients, 6 types of far infrared polyamide fabrics were compared with the ordinary polyamide fabrics in irradiating 3 breast cancer cells, i.e., MCF7, Bcap37 and MDA-MB-231, and the effects of fabrics and radiation duration on the proliferation of 3 types of breast cancer cells were examined. The results show that the emissivities of different far infrared polyamide fabrics are different, and the far infrared emissivity of tea carbon polyamide is the strongest among the 6 far infrared fabrics. The 6 types of far infrared fabrics inhibit the proliferation of MCF7 and Bcap37 breast cancer cells to different degrees, but not significantly in the case of MDA-MB-231 cell. With the increase of far infrared radiation time, the higher the far infrared emissivity of the fabric, the more significant the effect of inhibiting the proliferation of breast cancer cells. This study shows that far infrared fabrics are able to inhibit but not promote the proliferation of breast cancer cells from the perspective of cell biology, and provide a theoretical basis for exploring the wearing of far-infrared fabrics as adjuvant therapy for breast cancer patients.

Key technology for compaction and densification of micro-porous plates made from 3-D four-directional carbon/carbon preforms

MEI Baolong, DONG Jiuzhi, YANG Tao, JIANG Xiuming, REN Hongqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  116-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505408

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Aiming at the inconsistent density between layers of hand-woven 3-D four-directional carbon/carbon composite preforms, the mapping relationship between carbon fiber laying height and fiber volume content were established based on the prefabricated parts forming technology. Equal distance and density micro-porous plates were designed, and processing technique suitable for micro-porous plates was established to ensure uniform density of the preforms. In order to ensure good fiber fluidity during the compaction and densification process of the preforms, the fiber compression theory was applied and the optimization of the structure for equal-distance and density micro-porous plates was carried to reduce the porosity of the preform. Based on the control strategy of displacements-pressure double closed loop, a digital compaction device was developed for on-line dynamic control of the preform density and nondestructive compaction to ensure the uniform density between the preform layers. Compaction experiments of equal-distance and density micro-porous plates were carried out to verify the feasibility of the key technology of compaction and densification process and the preforms were examined with an industrial microscope. The results show that the uniformity of preforms compacted by the optimized equal-distance and density micro-porous plates is better, with the preform porosity reduced by 50% compared to the non-optimized preforms.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Preparation of functional spunlaced viscose fiber membrane and its application for laccase immobilization

LIU Suo, WANG Yaqian, WEI Anfang, ZHAO Lei, FENG Quan

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500806

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Aiming at the shortcomings of low loading rate of laccase with the existing materials and poor cyclic use performance after loading laccase, spunlaced viscose fiber membrane were surfaced modified for improved bonding of polymer chains adopting the atom transfer radical polymerization method, using hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) as the monomer (SV-poly(HEMA)) followed by coordination with Fe³⁺ions(SV-poly(HEMA)-Fe(Ⅲ)), which, as a carrier, was explored for immobilization performance of laccase. Meanwhile, the morphology and structure were analyzed. The results show that the immobilized content of laccase by SV-poly(HEMA)-Fe(Ⅲ) reached 132.9 mg/g and the immobilized laccase demonstrates stronger thermal stability(20-70 ℃) and lower sensitivity to pH value(2.0-7.0) compared with free laccase. Immobilized laccase maintains its initial activity more than 55% after 10 repeated uses.

Preparation flame retardant polyester fabric modified with halogen-free ferric oxide and its property

XUE Baoxia, SHI Yiran, ZHANG Feng, QIN Ruihong, NIU Mei

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201205406

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In order to achieve the "halogen-free, low smoke, low toxicity" flame retardant of polyester fabric, the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber was modified with the nano iron oxide (Fe₂O₃) using the melt spinning method. Fe₂O₃/PET fabric with different structures were constructed through weaving, so as to explore the internal relationship between fabric structure and flame retardant properties. The results show that the comprehensive flame retardant properties of Fe₂O₃/PET fabric with plain weave structure were significantly improved. Compared with the pure PET fabric, the ignition time was prolonged 132.4%. The heat release rate and the total heat release reduced by 30.1%, 19.7%. The total smoke production and smoke release rate have decreased by 43.5% and 44.1%, respectively. The Fe₂O₃/PET twill fabric played an obvious role in inhibiting flame spread. The research proved that, under the same fabric thickness, smaller fabric structure coefficient caused greater tightness. Fabric burning led to the dense layer of charcoal, which interrupted the combustion reaction and thus achieving double effect for flame retardant and smoke suppression.

Application of cutinase in polyester surface modification

WANG Yanping, CHEN Xiaoqian, XIA Wei, FU Jiajia, GAO Weidong, WANG Hongbo, ARTUR Cavaco-Paulo

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210204807

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Polyester fabrics present poor hydrophilic property. This research uses cutinase from H.insolens to modify the surface of polyester fabrics. The UV absorbance of the residual reaction liquid was evaluated and the treatment condition was determined based on the single-factor test. A suitable treatment condition for polyester fabrics was achieved under the cutinase concentration of 100 U/mL at 60 ℃ and pH 8.5 for 72 h. Under these conditions, Trition X-100 surfactant, with a dosage of 0.1%, was added to the reaction system, leading to significantly increase in the yield of cutinase-catalyzed hydrolysis of polyester fabrics. The type of product in the reaction residue, the hydrophilicity and dyeing properties of the treated and untreated fabric were measured, and the surface morphology and surface chemical composition of polyester were characterized. The mechanism of enzymatic modification of polyester was proposed. The results show that two main products yield from cutinase hydrolysis of polyester, namely mono-terephthalic acid 2-hydroxyethyl ester (MHET) and terephthalic acid (TPA). The surface of the polyester fabric became rough and the contact angle of polyester fabric was reduced from 93.4° to 83.1°. The dyeing depth value of the methylene blue dyed polyester fabric was significantly increased after the cutinase treatment, and the strength of C=O and C—O bands in the infrared spectrum corresponding to ester bond of cutinase-treated polyester fabric was decreased. It is indicated that the cutinase is able to catalyze the hydrolysis of ester bond on the surface of the polyester fabric, thus effectively improving the hydrophilicity of the polyester fabric.

Apparel Engineering

Classification and recognition of young males' neck-shoulder shape based on 2-D photos

ZHANG Jian, XU Kaiyi, ZHAO Songling, GU Bingfei

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  143-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506507

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In order to explore the classification of the neck and shoulder shape of young men and to facilitate the automatic recognition based on 2-D photos, this study obtained the point cloud data of 180 male college students using a three-dimensional body scanner, and measured 22 characteristic parameters relating to the male neck and shoulder shape. According to the analysis of the coefficient of variation, the forward angle, back angle, shoulder oblique angle, neck-to-shoulder width ratio, and neck transverse sagittal diameter ratio were selected as cluster analysis variables to classify the neck and shoulder shapes for establishing the discriminant rules. Combining the 2-D photos of the human body to extract the parameters required for body type classification, an automatic recognition system for the shape of the neck-shoulders was constructed. The results show that the neck-shoulder shape of young men can be divided into three types, namely round-neck-drop-shoulder, forward-round-neck and wide-neck-straight-body. The discrimination accuracy rate of the constructed form automatic recognition system reached 93.33%, indicating that this method is effective and feasible, and can meet the needs of consumers' personalized customization.

Study on somatotype classification of elderly women in Dalian area

JIN Jindi, YAO Tong, WANG Jun, SUN Jianmei, PAN Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  150-155.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210508006

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In order to gain in-depth understanding of somatotype characteristics of elderly women and to classify the somatotype of elderly women scientifically, human body data of the elderly women aged from 60 to 80 years old in Dalian area were collected, and the somatotype characteristics of the elderly women in Dalian area were analyzed using principal component factor analysis, comparative analysis and K-means dynamic clustering method. The combination classification method was employed to achieve accurate somatotype subdivision. The results show that the chest and waist-abdomen are protruding obviously and the arms are longer in the elderly women in Dalian area. The somatotype of the elderly women can be divided into four types: normal type, short type, high chest type, fat broad chest type and obese wide chest protruding abdomen type. Based on the combination of chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference, the somatotype of elderly women is divided into four categories, with a population coverage rate of 96.57%. The reference values of the control position of the intermediate body are found to be height 160 cm, chest circumference 97 cm, waist circumference 86 cm, abdominal circumference 95 cm, hip circumference 97 cm, arm length 52 cm, total shoulder width 40 cm, which provides a theoretical basis for the design of elderly women's clothing.

Optimization modeling for packaging order allocation for garment enterprises and solution finding using non-dominated genetic algorithm

PAN Jiahao, ZHOU Qihong, CEN Junhao, LI Shujia, ZHOU Shenhua

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  156-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504207

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In order to solve the problems of irrational task allocation scheme and long delay time in order allocation and sorting in the packaging and delivery process of garment manufacturers, a two-objective optimization mathematical model for packaging order allocation and sorting with maximum completion time and tardiness as objective functions was established taking into account for the constraints to machine allocation and machine adjustment time of the packaging line. A reference-point-based multi-objective evolutionary algorithm was used to solve the model before decoding the optimized solution and output the optimized scheme. This model was employed to solve a specific problem encountered by an enterprise, the results demonstrate that the new model is able to shorten the maximum completion time and can effectively control the delay. The average maximum completion time of several optimization schemes is 4.7% shorter than that of the earliest due date rule schemes, and the total delay time of all schemes is less than 4 hours. The research findings are of good application value in improving the packaging and shipping efficiency of garment manufacturers.

Machinery & Accessories

Yarn breakage location for yarn joining robot based on machine vision

ZHOU Qihong, PENG Yi, CEN Junhao, ZHOU Shenhua, LI Shujia

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  163-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504407

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In order to identify and locate the yarn breakage in the spinning process for the yarn joining robot through visual method and to simplify the mechanical structure, a recognition and positioning algorithm for yarn characteristics is proposed according to the image characteristics. An industrial camera was used to collect the image of the yarn being sucked into the suction nozzle, and the contrast between yarn features and background was enhanced through an improved gray enhancement method, using Canny operator for yarn edge detection. The image features of the yarn were obtained by dividing the interest regions and optimized using Hough line detection method, and the positioning algorithm was used to extract the required location information. The experimental results show that the position information extracted by the proposed algorithm has high accuracy, the error of coordinate points is 1.42 pixels, and the error of angle α is 0.60°. Compared with the use of the traditional location detecting algorithm, the running time of the program is reduced, and the average recognition time is in the order of 10^-1 s, with good real-time performance. The research results can be applied to the development of yarn joining robot products.

Research on modification of planetary gear transmission system used in textile machineries

MO Shuai, LIU Zhipeng, LUO Bingrui, CEN Guojian, XU Jiake, GAO Hanjun

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  170-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210600108

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In order to meet the requirements of high transmission efficiency and low noise of the planetary reducer for textile machineries, a three-dimensional digital prototype of the planetary reducer was constructed, and on this basis, the contact analysis and tooth surface modification research of the second-stage planetary gear transmission system of the reducer were carried out. The gear transmission error, meshing stiffness, and tooth surface normal force were used as evaluation indexes to study the modification of the planetary gear. By changing modification parameters to analyze its influence on the modification index parameters, the best modification plan of the planetary gear system was finalized. Studies show that the peak transmission error of the planetary gear transmission system is reduced from 0.68 μm before modification to 0.25 μm after modification, reducing by about 63%. The normal force of the tooth surface and the meshing rigidity of the gear teeth are reduced to varying degrees and improved. The impact of the planetary gear meshing in and out is effectively improved, and the transmission efficiency of the planetary gear transmission system is effectively improved, and it provides a reference for the vibration and noise reduction of the planetary gear transmission system.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress in nanocellulose energy storage materials based on electrospinning and carbonization methods

LI Qin, LI Xingxing, XIE Fangfang, ZHOU Wenlong, CHEN Kaiyi, LIU Yuqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  178-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201203207

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In order to promote the application of nanocellulose materials for energy storage, the preparation of electrode materials and separator materials for batteries and supercapacitors was reviewed with concentrations on carbonization and electrospinning technology and the combination of the two methods. It was found that electrospun nanocellulose has the advantages of excellent electrochemical properties and good flexibility, which can be used as composite reinforcement and conductive materials. Carbonization treatment of nanofibers has unique microporous structure and large specific surface area, whose main forms are aerogels, fibrous membranes and thin films. After analyzing the existing problems using nanocellulose materials prepared by electrospinning and carbonization technology, the paper pointed out that the construction of environmentally friendly natural substrate energy storage devices with various forms and structures is one of the future development directions. It is summarized that the preparation of nano cellulose materials by electrospinning and carbonization has a good application prospect in flexible energy storage devices and compact mobile end energy storage equipment.

Research progress in textile-based flexible dye-sensitized solar cells

HAN Yijun, XU Jun, CHANG Qiqi, ZHANG Cheng

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  185-194.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210301910

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Solar energy is one of the effective solutions for the energy problem. Flexible solar cells can solve the power supply problem for wearable devices, and at the same time can facilitate the integration with clothing. In order to comprehensively explore the application prospects of textile-based flexible dye-sensitized solar cells, the development status, composition structure, working mechanism and performance evaluation of dye-sensitized solar cells were reviewed, focusing on the research results of flexible fibrous batteries and textile-based planar batteries, and on analysis of the characteristics of electrode preparation and battery assembly methods. The review also pointed out the unresolved problems in the textile field, and also summarized the development process in textile-based flexible dye-sensitized solar cell electrolytes and sensitizing dyes. It is concluded that the prospect of the development of textile-based flexible dye-sensitized solar cells was put forward.

Research on formation mechanisms of textile fibers microplastic during laundering

CUI Yulian, LIU Hong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(05):  195-201.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210300207

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In order to clarify the influence of textile washing process on the formation of micro fibers, the source and existing mode of micro fiber in the textile life cycle were analyzed. The types of fibers, yarn structure, fabric structure and micro fiber formation factors in the finishing process were summarized from the aspect of laundering. Combined with washing mechanism and washing parameters of washing machine, the formation mechanism of micro fibers in the washing process was analyzed. The analysis shows that microfibers shed from synthetic textiles are one of the sources of micro plastics in the environment, and that the abrasion occurring in the washing process has a greater impact on the fabric wear, which is an important reason for the micro fiber shedding. The future research objectives of micro fiber in textile industry are prospected, aiming at the optimization of washing and drying process, and the upgrading filtering technology, micro treatment technology and other related technologies. Researchers should pay more attention to the combination of environmental optimization and textile technology from various perspectives.