Table of Content

15 April 2022, Volume 43 Issue 04

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Invited Paper

Research progress of lignocellulosic multifunctional materials

KONG Weiqing, HU Shufeng, YU Senlong, ZHOU Zhe, ZHU Meifang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  1-9.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220102509

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The unique material structure, pronounced anisotropy, good mechanical properties, and micro/nano channels of nature wood endow the wood material with many remarkable properties, providing opportunities for the design of functional materials. In order to improve the utilization and high value transformation of lignocellulose, this review summarized the development of lignocellulose functional materials in view of the structure and the physical/chemical properties of lignocellulose. The effects of structural design and regulation on the properties of lignocellulosic functional materials were scrutinized. The research progress in using lignocellulosic multifunctional fiber materials as structural lightweight materials, biodegradable materials, nanofluids/energy materials, biological materials and textile materials in recent years was reviewed, and the challenges were discussed. The future development direction is proposed to provide theoretical basis and technical support for the high value transformation of lignocellulose and its modern application.

Fiber Materials

Structure and performances of Yunnan wild fireweed fiber and its fibrous network

YU Yan, WANG Xichao, ZHANG Ruiyun, LI Rongli, CHENG Longdi

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  10-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303906

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The ancient fireweed textile technology for obtaining textile fibers is a cultural heritage of ethnic minorities. In order to study systematically the fiber and realize its popularization and application in the textile field, the basic structure and properties of wild fireweed fiber of Yunnan area and its network stripped from the back by hand were characterized by experiments. The studies show that the diameter of fireweed fiber is 1.05-5.76 μm, and it belongs to microfiber category. The longitudinal morphology of the fiber is characteristic of banded curvature, with folds and grooves on the surface, and the cross section is irregular elliptic with a cavity structure. The main components of the fiber are cellulose and hemicellulose with crystallinity of 55.52%. The thermal decomposition temperature of the fiber is 240 ℃, which has a good heat resistance. The content of lipid and wax is 6%, and the wetting angle with water is about 129.5° with good water-repellent ability. The moisture regain rate of the fiber is 11.69% and the moisture containing capacity is 10.47%, which is higher than that of cotton. Fireweed fiber has good resistance to acid and alkali at normal temperature, and the pH value of fiber water extract is 7.23, which is friendly to human skin.

Hemostasis properties of silk fibroin materials under different types of hydrolysis

LEI Caihong, YU Linshuang, ZHU Hailin, ZHENG Tao, CHEN Jianyong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  15-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210302305

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Aiming at the improvement of hemostasis properties of silk fibroin materials fabricated by salt hydrolysis and enzyme hydrolysis method, the silk fibroin materials were prepared via a freeze-drying method. The molecular weight, water solubility and hemostatic effect of the resultant material were analyzed by gel filtration chromatography, water solubility test, coagulation factor test, platelet adhesion test, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay and rat liver injury model. The results showed that compared with the salt hydrolysis method, the enzyme hydrolysis method could endow a lower molecular weight and better water soluble, which is conducive to activating the coagulation factor XII to promote endogenous coagulation. Moreover, the platelet adhesion and platelet factor 4 content increase significantly, the amount of bleeding from the rat liver is reduced with shortened bleeding time, indicating better hemostatic effect than that of Yunnan white medicine.

Effect of ultrasonic treatment on composition and structure of rabbit hair keratin

WANG Xiaoqing, SHI Zhiming, LI Xiaoyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  20-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210307608

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In view of the destruction of disulfide bonds by increasing chemical reagents or high temperature treatment, resulting in the hydrolysis of amide bonds to generate small molecular polypeptides, ultrasonic treatment combined with reduction method was used to extract the keratin from the rabbit hair. The effects of ultrasonic treatment on the chemical composition and structure of rabbit hair keratin were investigated by protein electrophoresis meter, infrared spectrometer, fluorescence spectrometer and particle size analyzer. The results show that with the increase of ultrasonic treatment time, the amino acid composition of rabbit hair keratin remained constant, but the amino acid content decreased. The loss rate of cystine increased and the content of free sulfhydryl group firstly increases and then decreases, and the molecular weight increases gradually and mainly distribute in the range of 31-43 ku. The secondary structure changes from α-helix structure to β-sheet structure and random coil structure, and the particle size of the keratin decrease. The fluorescence spectra show that keratin has fixed structure and is not easy to agglomerate.

Cashmere and wool classification based on sparse dictionary learning

SUN Chunhong, DING Guangtai, FANG Kun

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  28-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105706

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In order to identify cashmere and wool fibers accurately, this paper proposes a classification method based on sparse dictionary learning. Firstly, the fiber image is preprocessed to achieve data enhancement to achieve a fiber image feature matrix. Secondly, dictionary learning is performed on the feature matrix to obtain a complete dictionary and sparse coding. Finally, based on sparse coding and dictionary, the classification and identification of cashmere and wool is implemented. This method uses optical microscope images and scanning electron microscope images as data sets. Experiment results show that compared with support vector machine classifiers and sparse representation-based classifier algorithms, the classification accuracy of this method can be improved by 5%-10%, and the classification accuracy can reach up to 91%. It can be used for subsequent actual classification and identification of cashmere and wool fibers.

Electromagnetic wave absorption performance of loofah-based carbon materials

YE Wei, YU Jin, LONG Xiaoyun, SUN Qilong, MA Yan

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  33-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500107

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In order to develop a novel fibrous electromagnetic wave absorbing material, natural loofah was used as the base material of a carbon mesh, with Fe₃O₄ loaded onto the surface and internal pores of the loofah fiber through in-situ hybridization. The material properties were characterized and analyzed by scanning electron microscope, X-ray photoelectron spectrometer, vibrating sample magnetometer hysteresis loop analysis and electromagnetic parameter analysis. Results show that loofah-based carbon material preserves the special hollow structure, Fe₃O₄ particles are uniformly distributed on the fiber surface and internal pores, and the synergy between dielectric loss, magnetic loss and fiber structure enhances the electromagnetic wave loss of the material. When the solubility of FeCl₃ is 2 mol/L and the processing temperature is 700 ℃, in the range of 2-18 GHz, and the sample has a thickness of 3 mm, the electromagnetic wave loss reaches -24.37 dB at 9.97 GHz, and at 7.33-10.33 GHz the electromagnetic wave loss in the frequency band is less than -10 dB. The loofah fiber can be prepared into electromagnetic wave absorbing material with excellent performance through suitable carbonization and Fe₃O₄ loading process.

Preparation and performance of polyurethane/polydimethylsiloxane waterproof and moisture permeable membrane with star like topological geometry structure

SUN Zheru, ZHANG Qingle, HAO Lincong, CHENG Lu, XIA Xin

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  40-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210403107

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In order to study the waterproof properties of nanofiber membranes and explore the mechanism of the influence of the microstructure of the membrane surface on the membrane properties, polyure-thane(PU)/polydimethylsiloxane(PDMS) nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning method with high spinning PU and fluorinated low surface energy PDMS as raw materials. The PU/PDMS particles were deposited by electrostatic spray on the fiber membrane substrate, leading to the creation of an environment-friendly waterproof and moisture permeable membrane. The morphology, waterproof properties, air and moisture permeability and mechanical properties were tested and analyzed. The results showed that the superfine fiber links formed by electrostatic spray formed a star like topological structure, and formed a stable membrane structure with the PU/PDMS nanofiber substrate, with improved waterproof and mechanical properties. When the electrostatic spraying PU/PDMS mass fraction is 6% and the time is 2 h, the nanofiber membrane shows the best water repellency. Under this conditions, the static contact angle of the water reaches 149.1°, the moisture permeability is 5 566.7 g/(m²·d), the air permeability is 11.50 mm/s, the breaking strength is 8.22 MPa, and the elongation at break is 247.1%.

Textile Engineering

Mechanical property analysis of yarn pull-out from aramid plain woven fabrics based on micro-geometry

MA Ying, LIU Yueyan, ZHAO Yang, CHEN Xiang, LU Sheng, HU Hanjie

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  47-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210405508

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In order to study the mechanical properties and parametric influence of yarn pull-out from aramid plain woven fabrics, an analytical model was proposed to provide the theoretical bases for subsequent numerical modeling. The micro-geometry of the plain woven fabric was generated through weaving process simulation using the digital element approach. On this basis, the yarn pull-out behavior of a single yarn was simulated by ABAQUS. One solid element is used through the thickness of the yarn and the yarn material properties were defined. The effect of transverse pre-loading and yarn-to-yarn friction on pull-out behavior and energy transfer mechanism were obtained. The simulation results show that the differences between the simulated peak pull-out force and the peak transverse force compared to the experimental ones are 5.96% and -8.51%, respectively. The external energy is mainly dissipated in the form of frictional energy. When the transverse pre-loading and yarn-to-yarn friction coefficient increases, the growth rate of the yarn peak pull-out force gradually decreases. The proposed model is capable of predicting the yarn pull-out performance with reasonable accuracy.

Development and performance evaluation of knitted fabric with bionic bird feather structure

WANG Jianping, MIAO Mingzhu, SHEN Deyao, YAO Xiaofeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  55-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504907

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In order to improve the wear comfort of domestic ski warm pants and shorten the gap between domestic ski wear research and development technology and foreign brands, the effect of bionic bird feather structure on the thermal and wet properties of knitted fabrics was investigated. Eight types of bionic knitted fabrics with different structures were developed according to the microstructure characteristics of feathers by combining bionics and jacquard design techniques. Based on the comparison of thermal resistance, heat preservation rate, moisture permeability, air permeability and warp and weft core suction height, the gray near-optimal matrix was established to further evaluate the thermal and wet properties of the fabrics. The application suggestions of each fabric were put forward based on the thermal and wet map of male lower extremities. The results show that groove-like type Ⅰ, bionic feather sheet fabrics have good water absorption, and bionic feather twig, bionic pinnule, and groove-like type Ⅱ fabrics have excellent warmth retention. The air permeability of hollow bubble-like type Ⅰ and type Ⅱ fabrics is outstanding.

Process design of knitted pregnant women's stomach lift supporting belt based on effect evaluation

SHA Sha, CAO Ruiqi, JIA Wen, MA Pibo, ZHANG Tao, GAO Yuqin, WEI Wantong, GENG Anqi, YUAN Xiaohong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  62-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210105106

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In order to improve the abdominal effect of stomach lift supporting belt and the wear feeling of pregnant women, a suitable stomach lift supporting belt for the psychological and physiological needs of pregnant women was designed. The hip joint angle of pregnant women was taken as the research object. The relevant data were collected by three-dimensional motion capture instrument, and analyzed the factors which affecting the hip joint angle. The measured data were subjected to single factor analysis of variance test, and combined with subjective evaluation for comprehensive analysis. The data analysis shows that with the increase of gestational weeks and abdominal circumference, the hip joint angle of pregnant women in activity will also increase. The stomach lift supporting belt gives full play to the advantages of knitted tissue structure. When pregnant women are dressed, it can improve the belly lifting effect, play a role of stability and support, effectively reduce the hip joint angle of pregnant women, and thus play a good effect of abdominal effect. Moreover, it can improve the decoration and permeability of the stomach lift supporting belt by using the loop transfer structure, and improve the dress experience of pregnant women.

Effect of silane coupling agent modification on properties of glass fiber fabric reinforced polyphenylene sulfide composites

SHAO Lingda, HUANG Jinbo, JIN Xiaoke, TIAN Wei, ZHU Chengyan

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  68-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201205106

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To solve the problem of poor toughness of polyphenylene sulfide, glass fiber reinforced polyphenylene sulfide composites were prepared by mixing glass fiber fabrics with polyphenylene sulfide through hot pressing. In order to obtain better interfacial bonding properties, silane coupling agent KH560 was used to modify the surface of glass fiber. By means of scanning electron microscope, pendulum impact tester and universal tester, the changes of surface morphology of glass fiber treated with different concentrations of silane coupling agent KH560 and its effect on the mechanical properties of the composites were studied. The results show that when the mass fraction of the silane coupling agent KH560 is 2%, the glass fiber and the polyphenylene sulfide matrix achieves the best bonding, and the tensile strength, flexural strength and impact strength of the modified glass fiber reinforced composite reach 51.9 MPa, 78 MPa and 39.6 kJ/m² respectively, representing increases of 57.8%, 51.8% and 48.3% compared with untreated.

Multi-objective large-scale dynamic scheduling for weaving workshops based on improved NSGAII

SHEN Chunya, LEI Junjie, RU Xin, PENG Laihu, HU Xudong

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  74-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210502710

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As the number of looms exceeds 300 with more than 1 000 weaver's beams in the weaving workshop, the genetic algorithm is easy to fall into local optimal solution when solving such large-scale scheduling problems, and the traditional dynamic scheduling mechanism is not adaptable enough for complex production scenarios such as order insertion and proofing. An improved NSGAII algorithm was proposed in the paper. Considering the facts that the scheduling of a large-scale weaving workshop involves large numbers of looms, weaver's beams and products, and the unique inverse process scheduling relationship between weaving and drawing-in, a multi-objective large-scale scheduling model for weaving was constructed, aiming at the minimization of overdue loss, makespan, and idle time of loom. The encoding of heuristic rules was improved to reduce the solution space, and a greedy evolution operator was used in local and global correlation optimization to avoid falling into local optimization. A dynamic scheduling mechanism based on dominance relationship evaluation was adopted to improve the poor dynamic response mechanism and low ability against disturbance during production. Experiments show that the scheduling ability of the algorithm remains superior over other algorithms in a situation where there are 500 looms with 4 000 weaver's beams in a weaving workshop.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Preparation and reduction-oxidation process of indigo dispersant

HE Yingting, LI Min, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  84-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210307907

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In view of the low color yield of indigo dyeings, the preparation process of indigo dispersant was improred. The effects of the type and dosage of dispersant on the dispersion stability and dyeing properties of indigo dispersant were investigated. The effects of dye particle size, reductant dosage, temperature and pH value on the indigo reduction rate were analyzed, and the effect of oxidation methods on color fastness of dyed fabrics was discussed. The experimental results show that the dyeing of indigo dispersion with 1.5% dispersant DM-1501 achieves K/S value of 11.92. Under the condition of 1 g/L sodium hydrosulfite, 80 ℃ of reduction temperature, pH value is 11, the absorbance of leuco indigo in the reduction solution reaches the maximum and the half-reduction time of indigo dispersant with particle size of about 280 nm is reduced to 0.2 min. The cotton fabric oxidized by air reach the dry rubbing color fastness of grade 4, wet rubbing color fastness of grade 3, which are better than the fabric oxidized by H₂O₂.

Preparation of amino-modified Reactive Red 195/polymer nanospheres and its application on dyeing of cotton fabrics

WANG Dongwei, FANG Kuanjun, LIU Xiuming, ZHANG Xinqing, AN Fangfang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  90-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210202807

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In view of the problems that hydrolysis of reactive dyes leads to low utilization and environmental pollution, nanospheres were prepared by using ethylenediamine modified Reactive Red 195/polymer. The influence of initial bath pH value, mass fraction of ethylenediamine, temperature and time on the size and Zeta potential of amino-modified Reactive Red 195/polymer nanospheres were discussed, and the K/S values and color parameters of the cationic cotton fabrics dyed with the amino-modified Reactive Red 195/polymer nanospheres under the optimal conditions were investigated. The results show that the amino-modified Reactive Red 195/polymer nanospheres with an average hydration diameter of 96.5 nm, polydispersity index of 0.075 and Zeta potential of -33.7 mV were fabricated after modified with ethylenediamine under the conditions of the initial pH value 11, the mass fraction of ethylenediamine 40%, 60 ℃ for 120 min. The K/S value of the cationic cotton fabric dyed with the amino-modified Reactive Red 195/polymer nanospheres reaches up to 9.3, which is 3.1 times higher than the K/S value of the cotton fabric dyed with same dosage of Reactive Red 195, with improvement of color saturation. The rubbing and washing color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics are both equal to or higher than grade 4.

Preparation of highly hydrophobic dyes and their dyeing of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric

WANG Ju, ZHANG Liping, WANG Xiaochun, YANG Mengyang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  97-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210301705

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Conventional dyes are difficult to add color to ultra-high molecular weight poly-ethylene (UHMWPE) fibers. To address this problem, 1-hydroxy-4-p-toluylaminoanthraquinone and halogenated hydrocarbons were selected as raw materials, and three high hydrophobicity purple dyes, i.e. 1-p-toluylamino-4-anthraquinone hexyl ether, 1-p-toluylamino-4-anthraquinone decyl ether and 1-p-toluylamino-4-anthraquinone tetradecyl ether were prepared through Williamson etherification reaction. The target product was characterized and analyzed by infrared spectroscopy, proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and Chem3D Ultra 8.0 software. The UHMWPE fabric was dyed through a high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing process, and the dyeing properties were discussed. The results show that with the increase of alkyl substituents, the hydrophobicity of modified dyes gradually increases, and the affinity with UHMWPE fabric is significantly enhanced. When the substituent carbon number is 14, the affinity between the dye and the fiber becomes 11.18 kJ/mol, and the rubbing color fastness and soaping color fastness reach grade 4-5.

Dyeing properties of laser modified polyester fabrics with disperse dyes

HE Yang, ZHANG Ruiping, HE Yong, FAN Aimin

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  102-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210304608

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In order to make polyester fabrics have differential dyeing effect, CO₂ laser was used to modify a polyester fabric. Taking the color depth value(K/S) as the index, the effects of laser treatment conditions such as power, speed and step distance on the dyeing properties of the polyester fabric were studied. The laser modification process was determined to be 5 W laser power, 150 mm/s laser speed and 0.2 mm step distance. The thermodynamic and kinetic characteristics of Disperse Red E-FB dyeing modified polyester fabric were analyzed, and the color fastness of the modified fabric was tested. The results show that the K/S value of modified polyester fabric dyed with Disperse Red E-FB was 17.81, 54.24% higher than that of untreated, and the soaping fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed fabrics were both above grade 4. Laser modification can cause etching on the fiber surface, and result in increase in oxygen content, decrease in crystallinity and slightly increase in grain size, with little effect on the dyeing affinity of Disperse Red E-FB for modified polyester fabric. The dyeing heat (exothermic) is increased and the dyeing entropy (negative value) decreased. The half dyeing time and diffusion activation energy of Disperse Red E-FB dyeing modified polyester fabric are both decreased, and the diffusion coefficient demonstrates an increas.

Cyanotype process of cotton fabric under photocatalytic conditions

HOU Qianqian, LI Wenxi, ZHAO Meihua

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  110-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201204307

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In order to identify the influencing factors affecting the process of cyanotype exposure, a photocatalytic reactor with stable conditions was experimented as a new exposure method. The influence of printing factors such as photosensitizer concentration, cotton fabric type, ultraviolet(UV) lamp power and exposure time on the image effect of cyanotype process was investigated, and the optimized printing conditions of the cyanotype process were obtained. The properties of cotton fabrics were characterized by the scanning electron microscope, universal tensile tester and others. The results show that cotton fabrics with an areal density of 180 g/m² has the best cyanotype image effect when exposed to 600 W UV light for 30 min, with much improved efficiency. The lamp power is proportional to the exposure time, and both are found to be the main factors affecting the quality of cyanotype image. Comparing to the raw cotton fabric, the mass of plain dyed fabric (without pattern) and that of the printed fabric (with pattern) under the optimized conditions were 7.26% and 5.57% respectively, and the tensile strength was increased by 66.89 and 46.78 N, respectively. It was concluded that the properties of fabric substrate change with the different amount of Prussian blue pigment precipitation.

Fabrication and interfacial evaporation properties of reduced graphene oxide/viscose multi-layer composite

XIE Mengyu, HU Xiaolin, LI Xing, QU Jian'gang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  117-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210202407

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In order to prepare interfacial evaporator with portability, reusability and scalable manufacturability, reduced graphene oxide (RGO)/viscose multi-layer composite was fabricated, where the RGO/viscose fabric acts as solar absorber, cotton yarn and cotton fabric are used as water supply channel, and polypropylene fabric functions as thermal heat material. The structure, hydrophilic properties and optical properties of the RGO/viscose fabric were analyzed, and the evaporation properties, cyclic stability and application performance of the RGO/viscose multi-layer composite were studied. The results show that RGO is cross-linked with viscose fibers. The water droplets completely permeate into the RGO/viscose fabric in 2.02 s. The absorbance of RGO/viscose fabric is about 90% in the ultraviolet-visible near infrared region. When the thickness of insulation layer is 1.35 cm, the evaporation rate of the RGO/viscose multi-layer composite is the highest under 1.0 kW/m² solar irradiation, which is 3.6 times as high as that of pure water. Furthermore, the RGO/viscose multi-layer composite has good cyclic stability as the evaporation rate remains constant after recycling 10 times, showing excellent potential application prospect for dye wastewater treatment.

Apparel Engineering

Dynamic finite element modeling and simulation of single layer clothing ease allowance

YU Yukun, SUN Yue, HOU Jue, LIU Zheng, YICK Kitlun

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  124-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506109

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In order to investigate the dynamic change of ease allowance of clothing during motion, a dynamic simulation model for single layer clothing ease allowance using finite element method was proposed, simulating the mechanical state and clothing ease allowance generation mechanism. Based on the three-dimensional (3-D) point cloud data, 3-D sub-models of human body and clothing were constructed. Instron universal extensometer and 3-D motion capture system were used to measure the physical properties of clothing and the coordinates of human trunk during dynamic motion, then a finite element model of a single layer clothing ease allowance was established. The finite element simulation software was used for dynamic simulation, finally, the ease allowance obtained by simulation is compared and verified with the ease allowance in real motion state. The results show that the minimum average difference between the simulation and experiment is 0.24 mm, and the minimum relative mean square error is 1.81 mm.The simulation coordinate value is significantly correlated with that in experiment at the level of 0.01 (two tails). It indicated that the simulation results can accurately predict the dynamic garment ease allowance around the chest during motion.

Quantitative study of air layer under multi-opening air ventilation clothing

QIAN Jing, ZHAO Mengmeng, DANG Tianhua

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  133-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500907

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In order to study the influence of clothing with different opening position and wind speeds on the volume, thickness and distribution of air layer under an air ventilation clothing, three-dimensional scanning method was adopted to obtain geometric models of human body and clothing. The model was then processed by reverse engineering software, Geomagic Control, to analyze the difference in thickness and volume of air layer and obtain the distribution regularities of air layer under different conditions. The results show that the influence of wind speed on the average air layer thickness is more obvious than that of the opening mode. The wind speeds of the fans have a significant effect on the overall and local air layer thickness. The higher is the wind speed, the thicker is the air layer in body part, and more evenly distributed is the air layer. From the two-dimensional comparison of the air layer in the chest and waist areas, it can be seen that the thickness of the air layer in the chest does not change significantly with the changes of the wind speed and the opening, while the air layer in the waist is affected significantly.

Balanced optimization of garment hybrid assembly line based on modularization

ZHENG Lu, YAN Weixiong, HU Jueliang, HAN Shuguang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  140-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210707907

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Targeting at multi-variety, small-batch and short cycle features in garment production, a garment intelligent production scheduling algorithm based on modularization is proposed to facilitate rapid production of multiple garments on a hybrid assembly line. On the basis of garment modules, the joint optimization model was established including ordering production tasks and assigning modular garment production process. The target tracking genetic algorithm was designed to set up the model, to achieve the optimization of the production sequence and the automatic arrangement of the garment manufacturing process on the assembly line. Taking two similar shirts for examples, the smoothness index and line efficiency of the designed modular garment hybrid assembly line reach 3.359 and 97.9% respectively. Compared with single-piece flow production of small batch, the modular production has significantly improved the balance of the assembly line, providing theoretical guidance for the promotion of garment intelligent manufacturing and lean production.

Impact of clothing color perceived value on brand loyalty

DAI Yuqian, LIU Xiaogang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  147-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210400906

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In order to analyze the influence mechanism of clothing color perceived value on brand loyalty, through literature review and theoretical basic research, a four-variable theoretical model of color perceived value, proactive improvement, brand identity, and brand loyalty was constructed. Then, relevant hypotheses were put forward. The empirical analysis of the 207 collected valid questionnaires was carried out by regression model. The results of the research show that the theoretical model of clothing color perceived value has good reliability and relevance, and three hypotheses have been verified. The higher the value of consumers' clothing color perception, the higher the brand identity and brand loyalty formed. The proactive improvement actions taken by clothing brands can positively affect the formation of consumer brand identity. Consumers who understand the fashion color trend have higher color perceived value and are more likely to form brand identity, which translates into brand loyalty.

Machinery & Accessories

Research on on-line detection system of broken filaments in industrial polyester filament

ZHANG Ronggen, FENG Pei, LIU Dashuang, ZHANG Junping, YANG Chongchang

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  153-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305407

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The on-line detection process of polyester filaments hinders intelligent manufacturing in the whole production process. In order to solve the problem in inspecting polyester broken filament yarns and to improve the on-line quality detection system, a method of identifying broken filament yarns and counting the number by means of machine vision intelligent detection technology is proposed. Based on LabVIEW image processing technology,the yarn length is taken as the judgment basis. Image enhancement,binarization,digital morphology and other methods are used to obtain the filament image and to extract the length information. Through experiments, the detection threshold of filament length is obtained. When the filament length in the image exceeds the detection threshold,the existence of the filament will be recognized,and the number of such filaments can be accumulated. The experimental results show that the accuracy of the detection scheme is over 90%,the design is reasonable,the cost is low,and it has great practical value for improving polyester filament quality and reducing enterprise cost.

Drawing frame modeling design based on Kansei image

DUAN Jinjuan, XUAN Aiqi, YUAN Bo, LI Na'na

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  160-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210502307

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Based on Kansei engineering and quantification theory I (QTI), the proposed paper took the drawing frame as an example to carry out design and experimental research in order to meet users' perceptual needs for textile machinery modeling and improve modeling design efficiency and optimize recommendation. Representative samples and Kansei antonym words of the drawing frame were selected and determined, and the users' Kansei evaluation data were obtained through experiments. Based on QTI, the mapping models between Kansei image of the drawing frame and the modeling design elements were established. Taking the "cumbersome-simplicity" semantic dimension as an example, modeling design recommendation strategies were obtained. Through design practice and user evaluation, the accuracy and reliability of the correlation model were verified. The results show that the drawing frame correlation model based on Kansei engineering and QTI has prediction accuracy and reliability, and it can provide designers with more accurate and specific design strategy recommendations, improve design efficiency and users' satisfaction.

Sensorless parameter adaptive tension control method of winding yarns

JIANG Linjun, ZHANG Hua

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  167-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210404007

Abstract ( 330 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (5612KB) ( 122 )   Save

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In order to keep the tension stable in yarn winding system, in view of the nonlinear and time-dependent parameters in the system, this paper proposed a sensorless tension control method based on tension monitoring and parameter self-adaptation. According to the principle of torque balance, a mathematical model of the yarn winding system was established, a reduced-order tension monitoring device was designed, and the data obtained were used as the system pre-feedback compensation value to avoid measurement delay caused by the tension sensor. The Landau discrete-time recursive algorithm was then used to identify the moment of inertia of the winding system, and the identified moment of inertia was used to modify the PI parameters of the speed controller, which was used to improve the dynamic performance of the winding system. Comparison between the general PI parameter control and proposed sensorless parameter adaptive control shows that the proposed control method significantly reduces the influence of the change in the moment of inertia on the tension, and has good robustness, dynamic response performance and high steady-state accuracy.

Design of loom shedding control system for interlayer angle interlocking fabric based on use of host computer

CHEN Xiaoming, LI Jiao, ZHANG Yifan, XIE Junbo, YAO Tianlei, CHEN Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  174-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200503506

Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (6387KB) ( 86 )   Save

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Aiming at the problem that the weaving of small batch and multi-type interlayer angle interlocking fabrics needs frequent change of the automatic weaving shedding control program, this paper proposes an loom shedding control system based on the host computer, including data format conversion computer aided manufacturing(CAM)software, host computer communication system and programmable logical controller(PLC) control system. The host computer communication system was firstly designed and a process information data format conversion CAM software module was built based on Python and QT-Designer. Further, a PLC host computer communication software was developed based on Visual Basic to facilitate real-time transmission of process information to the PLC, and monitor the production process. The hardware and software design of PLC control system, and experimental verification of the feasibility of the control system of jacquard loom were carried out based on the use of the host computer. The research results show that the process information data format conversion CAM software module, host computer communication software and PLC control system developed in this research were feasible. The cylinder motion matrix file was edited through Excel and then copied into the host computer to complete the data format conversion and complete the control program change.

Comprehensive Review

Progress in microfluidics preparation technology of micro/nano cellulose materials

LI Xingxing, LI Qin, YUE Tiantian, LIU Yuqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  180-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201203407

Abstract ( 285 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (5578KB) ( 120 )   Save

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In order to gain in-depth understanding of the research status of micro/nano cellulose materials prepared by microfluidic technology, and to promote its application in various fields, the use of cellulose and nanocellulose as raw materials based on microfluidic technology was reviewed. The latest research progress was reviewed and discussed concentrating on the preparations of cellulose microspheres and microcapsules, nanocellulose microspheres and microcapsules, fiber filaments, films, microtubules, and hydrogels combined with rapid freezing method, in-situ interface complex method and other technologies. Aiming at the challenges in the preparation of micro/nano cellulose materials by microfluidic technology, a corresponding strategy is proposed to tackle material defects, to enhance the ability for micro-channel construction, and to explore technology combination solutions. Development prospects were also scrutinized to provide references for the preparation of micro/nano cellulose materials by microfluidic technology in the fields of material science, tissue engineering and regenerative medicine.

Research progress in preparation of carbon nanotubes based wave absorbing composites and its applications in textile field

LU Qianqian, TANG Junxiong, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  187-193.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210201307

Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2997KB) ( 175 )   Save

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In order to solve the problems of weak magnetic loss and impedance mismatch of carbon nanotubes (CNTs) in electromagnetic absorption field, the recent research progress in electromagnetic absorption properties of CNTs and magnetic metal composites was reviewed. The wave absorbing mechanism of carbon nanotubes is briefly introduced, before the preparation method, influencing factors, absorbing mechanisms and absorbing effects of carbon nanotubes, magnetic metals and metal compound composites were summarized in detail. The preparation and application of such materials in the textile field were introduced. It is pointed out that carbon nanotubes and magnetic metal composites can give full play to the synergistic effect of multi-component loss, improve impedance matching, and achieve the absorption effect of light, high strength and broadband electromagnetic waves. The wave absorbing composites prepared by the combination of wave absorbing materials and textile materials can give full play to their advantages and have a good application prospect in the future.

Application research progress in phase change materials for thermal protective clothing

ZHU Xiaorong, HE Jiazhen, WANG Min

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  194-202.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102509

Abstract ( 500 )   HTML ( 48 )   PDF (3576KB) ( 264 )   Save

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In order to understand and improve the thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing with phase change materials (PCMs), the application, influencing factors and future research trends of PCMs in thermal protective clothing were summarized in this review paper. The types and characteristics of PCMs were introduced, and the application methods of PCMs in thermal protective clothing using the sealed bag method, spinning method and fabric finishing of microcapsule technology were presented. In addition, the development process of heat transfer model of thermal protective clothing incorporated with PCMs were reviewed. The factors affecting thermal protective performance were summarized from the aspects of material type, phase change temperature, added amount and configuration of PCMs in a multilayer protective clothing. Finally, the future research trends of PCMs in this field were analyzed from the perspectives of researching and developing new PCMs and reducing heat storage release of PCMs.

Review of digital pattern-making technology in garment production

LEI Ge, LI Xiaohui

Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(04):  203-209.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105507

Abstract ( 494 )   HTML ( 54 )   PDF (2739KB) ( 271 )   Save

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To promote the application and development of digital pattern-making technology, this paper starts by introducing the two-dimensional pattern generation technology including parametric design and application of artificial, and three-dimensional virtual suture technology. The methods to generate garment models, including three-dimensional auto-generation, three-dimensional visual draping, three-dimensional reconstruction, and three-dimensional modular reorganization were discussed. Surface development techniques such as geometric development, mechanical development, the combination of geometry and mechanics were summarized. The paper illustrates that the digital garment pattern-making technology has great potential in pattern-making simplification, experience-independence, and the transformation between visual three-dimensional modeling and two-dimensional pattern. The potential development direction of digital pattern-making is to improve pattern accuracy, modeling accuracy and efficiency while satisfying the personalization and diversification of clothing by combining human innovation potential and computer computing power.