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Table of Content

    15 June 2022, Volume 43 Issue 06
    • Manufacture and Application of High Performance Flexible Textile Composites
      Photo oxidative aging behavior and evaluation of polyvinyl chloride membrane structural composites
      GUO Shanshan, HAO Enquan, LI Hongjie, WANG Linlin, JIANG Jinhua, CHEN Nanliang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220104008
      Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (11393KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the different photo-oxygen aging behavior of membrane coated warp knitted and woven structure composites, accelerated aging behavior of polyester warp knitted and woven fabric reinforced polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membrane composites was studied under ultraviolet irradiation. Six types of fabrics were selected for making the composites, and the aging was characterized by the mechanical properties of polyester yarn. The test results show that the coating membrane has a good protective effect on the yarns in the fabrics. The initial modulus of warp knitted fabric is higher than that of woven fabric, but the retention rate of breaking strength is lower. At the irradiation energy of 82.08×103 kJ/m2, the fracture strength retention rate of the single-face warp-knitted membrane structural composite with both 24 course and wale densities is only 62.4%, and the coating of the single-face membrane structural material is no longer effective in protecting the substrate fabric with the coating membrane granulized and clustered. However, the retention rates of breaking strength of the five double-faced samples are all above 85%. Within the irradiation energy range, the coated surface becomes rough, with few grooves appearing, demonstrating good anti-photo oxygen aging performance.

      Preparation of metal phenolic network/zwitterionic polymer coated polypropylene mesh and its resistance to protein adsorption
      WANG Qian, QIAO Yansha, WANG Junshuo, LI Yan, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210804806
      Abstract ( 334 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (6484KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to combine hydrophilic zwitterions with inert polypropylene (PP) mesh and reduce the adsorption of protein on the mesh surface, poly(carboxybetaine methacrylate) (PCBMA) was deposited on PP mesh through Fe(Ⅲ) and tannic acid (TA) layer-by-layer self-assembly of metal phenolic network (MPN). The micro-morphology, surface composition, contact angle, surface potential, mechanical properties, protein adsorption properties and cytotoxicity of the meshes before and after modification were characterized and analyzed. The results show that PCBMA can wrap evenly on the surface of PP monofilament assisted by MPN, and the surface chemical composition of the mesh is changed. Moreover, PCBMA-Fe/TA coating reduces the water contact angle of the mesh to 37° and the surface zeta potential is increased from -55.7 mV to -5.14 mV. In addition, the mechanical properties of PP mesh are not affected by the coating, but the coating brings significant protein adsorption resistance to the mesh. Furthermore, the relative cell viability of the modified mesh reaches 89%, which shows excellent biocompatibility. In general, the study provides a reference basis for the antifouling modification of inert medical devices.

      Structural design and application of wet-laid nonwovens for separating membrane support
      SHI Lei, ZHANG Linwei, LIU Ya, XIA Lei, ZHUANG Xupin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220101407
      Abstract ( 229 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (29484KB) ( 284 )   Save
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      Fabric supports play an important role of the membrane forming, and have an significant influence on the structure and performance of the membrane. In order to obtain a support with the required structure, asymmetric structured wet-laid nonwoven fabrics containing dense and smooth layer and high-mechanical layer was prepared by using wet-laid process and hot-pressing technology for the systematic investigation on the influence of fiber composition on the structure and properties. The results show that the addition of ultra-fine fibers improves surface smoothness, reduces pore size, and improves the processability of the separation membrane. When the porosity and structural parameters of the support were increased, and the porous structure of polysulfone membranes was accordingly regulated by influencing the phase separation forming process of the separation membrane, with the finger-like pores gradually shorten to circular sponge-like cavity structure. The permeance and bovine serum albumi rejection of the polysulfone membranes were also improved, indicating a new research idea for the separation membrane supports.

      Thermal mechanical properties of polyimide fiber-reinforced polydimethylsiloxane flexible film
      HUANG Yaoli, LU Cheng, JIANG Jinhua, CHEN Nanliang, SHAO Huiqi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  22-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220103207
      Abstract ( 273 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4742KB) ( 73 )   Save
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      Aiming at the thermal deformation and thermodynamic problems of fiber-reinforced flexible film in service, polyimide (PI) fiber-reinforced polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) flexible composite film was prepared with polyimide fiber as reinforcement and polydimethylsiloxane as matrix by scraper coating. The thermal stability of the composite membrane was studied using a thermogravimetric analyzer. The universal material tester and the thermomechanical analyzer were used to discuss the influence of the linear density and laying density of the oriented reinforced fiber on the mechanical properties and thermal expansion coefficient of the composite film. COMSOL finite element simulation was used to analyze the thermal expansion and deformation mechanism of fiber-oriented reinforced composite membrane. The results show that the rate of mass loss is only 1.22% at 300 ℃, indicating that the thermal stability of composite membrane below 300 ℃. With the increase of fiber layer density and linear density, the breaking strength and elastic modulus gradually increase and the thermal expansion coefficient gradually decreases, and both exhibit negative expansion characteristics, indicating that the orientation enhancement of polyimide fibers can effectively influence the dimensional stability of composite membrane materials. The correlation between the simulation and the experimental results is good, indicating that the model can be used to predict and optimize the thermal expansion coefficient of PI fiber-reinforced composite membranes.

      Fiber Materials
      Antibacterial fiber membrane with photodegradation function based on polyhydroxybutyrate/polycaprolactone
      QU Yun, MA Wei, LIU Ying, REN Xuehong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  29-36.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210300808
      Abstract ( 215 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (12939KB) ( 39 )   Save
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      In order to prepare a novel fiber membrane with high antibacterial performance and photodegradation function, Ag-ZnO composite particles with different mass fractions were added to polycaprolactone(PCL) and polyhydroxybutyrate(PHB) composite fiber membrane by electrospinning technology. The prepared Ag-ZnO-PHB/PCL fibrous membranes were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, thermogravimetric analysis, and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Mechanical properties, photocatalytic performance and antibacterial property were also investigated. The experimental data shows that the antibacterial rates of fibrous membranes against E. coli O157:H7 and S. aureus within 60 min reach 84.12% and 97.99% respectively. The fibrous membrane has inhibitory effect on biofilm to a certain extent. The degradation of methylene blue solution was significant when the fiber membrane was irradiated under ultraviolet light for 12 min. The fibrous membrane also has excellent mechanical properties and good biocompatibility, which demonstrates a great potential for application in the field of antibacterial packaging materials and medical dressings.

      Construction of air-liquid-solid tri-phase system from bilayer micro/nanofiber membrane and its photocatalytic performance
      FEI Jianwu, LÜ Mingze, LIU Liwei, WANG Chunhong, HAN Zhenbang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  37-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504507
      Abstract ( 120 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (10167KB) ( 38 )   Save
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      To enhance the photocatalytic degradation performance of the graphitic carbon nitride (g-C3N4), a bilayer micro/nanofiber membrane with opposing wettability has been developed via the electrospinning method, where the polystyrene membrane was used as the hydrophobic layer, and the g-C3N4/iron (II) phthalocyanine (FePc) heterojunction was taken for the hydrophilic layer on a polyacrylonitrile/polyvinylpyrrolidone membrane substrate. The morphology, chemical construction and optical absorption of the prepared bilayer membrane were investigated, and the photocatalytic performance for dye degradation was studied. The results indicate that the hydrophobic layer and the hydrophilic catalyst layer, with the water contact angle of 140° and 12°, respectively, can be tightly combined with each other. The distribution of g-C3N4/FePc on the catalyst layer is uniform, and the sensitization of FePc extends the optical absorption up to 800 nm. During the photocatalytic dye degradation, the hydrophobic layer can serve as gas passage to quickly deliver O2 from air to the catalytic interface. This greatly boosts the capture of photoelectrons in conduction band of g-C3N4 by O2 via constructing an air-liquid-solid triphase contact interface, resulting in 3.1 times fold higher reaction kinetics versus a normal diphase system.

      Preparation and property of silk fibroin based hydrogel scaffolds
      LI Aiyuan, SHI Xinyu, YUE Wanfu, YOU Weiyun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  44-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210310306
      Abstract ( 250 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (12074KB) ( 159 )   Save
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      In order to explore the preparation conditions and biocompatibility of silk fibroin hydrogel materials, a controllable hydrogel system consisting of two myristic phosphatidylglycerol (DMPG) and degumming silk fibroin (SF) was prepared. The SF chain was oriented by electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions between phospholipids and SF chains β. The SF hydrogel scaffolds were obtained by folding structure transformation. The cell proliferation rate, cell differentiation rate, the growth rate of animal scaffold cells and animal scaffold degradation rate were compared by different molar concentration of scaffolds. The results showed that the higher the concentration of DMPG was, the shorter the preparation time of SF hydrogel scaffolds. The 15 mmol/L DMPG shortened the preparation time of SF hydrogel scaffolds from 7 d to 10 min. DMPG induced SF hydrogel demonstrated no cytotoxicity, and when DMPG was 10 mmol/L the cell proliferation rate was the highest. SF hydrogel scaffold with DMPG concentration of 10 mmol/L was injected into the subcutaneous tissue of the Hu sheep's ear. The SF hydrogel scaffold containing Hu sheep muscle satellite cells grew muscle in the animal body, and no muscle could be produced by simply injecting scaffolds or cells. SF hydrogel scaffolds possess excellent biocompatibility, and with the increase of SF hydrogel scaffolds in animal, the scaffold gradually degraded and disappeared, exposing the muscle tissue.

      Preparation and properties of nanofiber-based unidirectional water-transport antibacterial wound dressings
      OU Kangkang, QI Linya, HOU Yijun, FAN Tianhua, QI Kun, WANG Baoxiu, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  49-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210503908
      Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (18416KB) ( 68 )   Save
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      In order to deal with bacteria breeding and fluid formation on wound site, polyurethane (PU) with excellent mechanical properties, polyacrylonitrile with high hydrophilicity and sodium polyacrylate with superabsorbent water were used as the substrate, and polyhexamethyl guanidine hydrochloride (PHGC) was used as the antibacterial agent to create antibacterial wound dressings. The nanofiber-based bilayer dressing material composed of hydrophilic outer layer and hydrophobic inner layer with different fiber sizes was prepared by electrospinning. The influence of hydrophobic layer thickness on the unidirectional water-transport effect of bilayer dressing was investigated, and the relationship between the structure and properties of the dressing were analyzed. The results show that the prepared bilayer dressing material can transfer water unidirectionally from inside to outside in 3.9 s, and the water absorption of the dressing is as high as 1 230%. The air permeability is 6.7 mm/s, the moisture permeability is 1 350 g/(m2·d), the breaking strength is 6.5 MPa and the elongation at break is 45%. The addition of 0.06% PHGC to PU inner layer makes the antibacterial rate of dressing against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus reach more than 95%. The prepared bilayer dressings show no cytotoxicity and low cell adhesion.

      Textile Engineering
      Influence of cotton/polyester sheath-core structure roving parameters on structure and performance of spun yarn
      GUO Mingrui, GU Yinhua, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  57-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210402006
      Abstract ( 194 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (10906KB) ( 44 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the influence of roving parameters on the appearance and properties of cotton/polyester sheath-core staple yarns by the two-step spinning process, the effects of factors such as spinning settings, roving linear density, roving twist and core/sheath fiber ratio on the exposure of core fiber and yarn properties were studied. With the help of image processing technology, the core fiber exposure ratio was quantitatively measured. The results show that as the width of fiber bundle output from roving frame increases from 10.2 mm to 16.3 mm, the eccentricity of core fiber bundle in roving decreases from 26.5% to 19.2%, and the exposure ratio of core fiber in yarn decreases by 11.3% (29.2 tex) and 12.3% (19.4 tex). When the roving count increases or the twist coefficient decreases, the core fiber exposure proportion decreases. When the proportion of polyester core fiber increased from 15% to 25%, the exposure proportion of core fiber increased by 35.6% (29.2 tex) and 30.5% (19.4 tex).

      Deformation prediction and simulation of weft knitted fabrics with non-uniform density distribution
      RU Xin, ZHU Wanzhen, SHI Weimin, PENG Laihu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  63-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210701808
      Abstract ( 155 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (10557KB) ( 44 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of obvious deformation of the finished fabric formed by the combination of weft knitted fabric stitches of different densities and the difficulty in predicting the finished product effect, a deformation prediction and simulation method of the weft knitted fabrics with non-uniform distribution of density was proposed. Based on the specific distribution of different constituent fabric stitches in the fabric, the method of determining the initial state of the corresponding fabric spring-mass point model was employed, based on which the stress analysis of the mass point and the corresponding mechanical differential equations were established, and the position of the mass point was obtained by solving the mechanical differential equations numerically. The NURBS loop model was established based on the two-dimensional Peirce loop model, and the relationship between the control vertex and the fabric loop distance and height was determined to further establish the mass point-control point correlation equation. The position of the mass point after the force shift was substituted into the mass point-control point correlation equation to realize the deformation simulation of weft knitted fabrics with non-uniform density distribution of curved loop. The fabric simulation map was compared with the practical knitted fabrics, and the results show that the simulation effect is reliable.

      Finite element simulation of pilling of polyester/cotton woven fabrics using ABAQUS
      XIAO Qi, WANG Rui, ZHANG Shujie, SUN Hongyu, WANG Jingru
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  70-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210703809
      Abstract ( 264 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (19649KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      In order to better understand pilling of polyester/cotton woven fabrics, a geometric model of the fabric showing hairiness was established by using PYTHON language with ABAQUS, on the basis of the measured the distribution characteristics of hairiness during pilling. The finite element simulation model for fabric pilling were validated using experimental data, and the differences in pilling grades between the simulated and the experimental results is about 7.4%, which proves the feasibility of finite element simulation. The effects of elastic modulus of polyester fibers on pilling grades and energy absorption form of pilling were analysed. The results indicate that when the elastic modulus of polyester fibers is increased, the pilling grade of polyester/cotton woven fabric is reduced. Friction dissipation energy is the main form of energy absorption during pilling of polyester/cotton woven fabrics.

      Size prediction of knitted sports pressure socks based on ABAQUS
      LIU Xueyan, JIANG Gaoming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  79-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210601807
      Abstract ( 355 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (4751KB) ( 53 )   Save
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      In order to improve the functionality of sports pressure socks to achieve accurate pressure, a 3-D human body scanner was used to scan the shape of human legs, and the cross-section curves of the ankle, the transition between Achilles tendon and calf muscle, the maximum circumference of the leg and the tibial protuberance were measured. In parallel, finite element software ABAQUS was used to establish the four-section models respectively. According to the standard pressure value, the compression state of the leg section with sports pressure sock was simulated, and the relationship between the pressure and the displacement of each section of the leg was analyzed. Using the size prediction model of the knitted sport pressure socks, the sock test sample was designed, and the pressure test results were measured and compared with the standard pressure. The results show that when wearing sports pressure socks, the compression state of each section of the left and right leg varies greatly, and the pressure on each cross section is related to the displacement. The relationship between the size of the sport pressure socks and its pressure and the circumference of the leg section is linear. The error between the pressure test value and the standard value of the experimental sample is less than 5%, which proves the validity of the prediction model.

      Preparation and mechanical properties of polylactic acid nonwovens via post-drafting assisted melt blown process
      SUN Huanwei, ZHANG Heng, CUI Jingqiang, ZHU Feichao, WANG Guofeng, SU Tianyang, ZHEN Qi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  86-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210203908
      Abstract ( 248 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (5855KB) ( 73 )   Save
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      In order to improve the mechanical properties of polylactic acid (PLA) melt blown nonwovens, samples of PLA melt blown nonwovens with high crystallinity were prepared by a large scale and one step post-drafting assisted melt blown process, based on the experimental analysis of the thermodynamic properties of PLA polymers. The morphology, tensile and bursting properties of the prepared samples were evaluated. The results show that the glass transition temperature and melting point of PLA were 60.69 ℃ and 162.6 ℃, respectively, suitable for the preparation at a high drafting ratio during the post-drafting assisted melt blown process. It was noted that with the drafting ratio increasing from 1.0 to 3.0, the proportion of high-oriented fibers (fiber orientation angle≤20°) was increased from 28% to 100%, and the proportion of the microfibers (fiber diameter ≤3 μm) was increased from 23% to 67%. The drafting ratio increase also caused the crystallinity to increase from 1.22% to 37.43%, the tensile breaking strength in machine direction to reach 4.33 N/mm2, and the bursting force to 36.8 N, demonstrating improvement of the mechanical properties of the PLA melt blown nonwovens due to the post-drafting assisted melt blown process.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Phosphorus/nitrogen-containing flame retardant for flame retardant finishing of polyester/cotton blended fabric
      HUANG Yiting, CHENG Xianwei, GUAN Jinping, CHEN Guoqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  94-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210507707
      Abstract ( 196 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (4463KB) ( 47 )   Save
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      The development of flame retardant polyester/cotton blended fabrics is of great interest. In this study, ammonium phytate salt was synthesized using biomass phytic acid and urea, and applied to improve the flame retardancy of polyester/cotton blended fabric through pad-dry-cure process. The ammonium phytate salt was characterized with the Attenuated total reflection Flourier transformed infrared spectra. The surface morphology, thermal stability, heat release capacity, flame retardancy and mechanism of the treated polyester/cotton blended fabric were explored. The results showed that the treated polyester/cotton blended fabrics had good flame retardancy. The LOI value of treated fabrics was increased to 25.6%. During the vertical burning test, the treated fabrics could self-extinguish and had the reduced char length of 12 cm, meeting the B1 classification according to GB/T 17591—2006 "Flame retardant textiles". Besides, the treated fabrics showed higher thermal stability and lower heat release ability. Ammonium phytate salt improved the flame retardant properties of polyester/cotton blended fabrics through an intumescent flame retardant mechanism.

      Preparation and property of reduced graphene oxide/viscose-based BiVO4 photocatalyst
      QIAN Jiaqi, QU Jian'gang, HU Xiaolin, MAO Qinghui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  100-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210604907
      Abstract ( 185 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (5820KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to overcome the disadvantages of low photocatalytic efficiency and recyclability of BiVO4, silane coupling agent KH-560 and graphene oxide (GO) were used to modify the viscose nonwoven fabrics, then BiVO4 was grown on its surface by stirring hydrothermal method to prepare reduced graphene oxide (RGO)/viscose-based BiVO4 photocatalyst. The materials as prepared were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and ultraviolet visible absorption spectroscopy. The photocatalytic activity, reusability and photocatalytic mechanism of RGO/viscose based BiVO4 photocatalyst for C.I. Reactive Black 5 decolorization were studied. The results show that BiVO4 is successfully loaded on RGO/viscose nonwovens and consequently RGO/viscose-based BiVO4 photocatalytic materials are obtained. Under the irradiation of 1 kW xenon lamp, the decolorization rate can reach up to 95% in 90 min, and over 92% is preserved even after five recycles. Furthermore, free radical capture experiments show that photogenerated hole, superoxide radical and hydroxyl radical participate in the photocatalytic reaction, and among which the hydroxyl radical is the most important.

      Preparation and performance of flame retardant and hydrophobic cotton fabric
      LI Pingyang, FU Can, DONG Lingling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  107-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210304108
      Abstract ( 253 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (20523KB) ( 67 )   Save
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      In order to address high flammability and poor hydrophobic performance of cotton fabrics, the coating consisting of phenylphosphonic acid (PA) and (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (APTES) were synthesized through one-pot method, in which functional cotton fabrics embraced with excellent flame retardant and hydrophobic properties, simultaneously. The thermal stability,flammability, hydrophobicity, and washing resistance of the prepared cotton fabrics were tested. Moreover, the flame-retardant mechanism was further investigated. The results showed that APTES and PA were successfully loaded on cotton fabrics. The weight loading was 15.3%. Limiting oxygen index value of functional cotton fabrics reached as high as 29.4%. The obtained fabrics extinguished immediately after removed from the ignitor. The damage length was 10.4 cm. The thermal stability was remarkably improved. Meanwhile, the release of flammable species obviously decreased. Char layer with higher graphitization degree formed during the fire. On the other hand, the water contact angle of functional cotton increased to 139°, which could not be wetted by several different liquid droplets. Based on the above results, the prepared cotton fabric exhibited excellent flame retardancy and good hydrophobicity indeed. This one-pot approach is convenient and eco-friendly.Besides, this finishing process showed few influences on feel and whiteness of cotton. The enhanced washing fastness was also achieved in this work.

      Migration and distribution of organic silicon and its blends on polyamide/polyurethane fabrics
      QUAN Heng, REN Jingzhi, CHEN Wenlong, YUAN Hui, XIE Nanping, WU Ruozi, NI Lijie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  115-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305206
      Abstract ( 221 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4952KB) ( 27 )   Save
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      The change of relative proportion of element C, N, O, and Si on the surface of polyamide/polyurethane fiber treated by different polysiloxane softener were studied, in order to explore the macromolecule distribution of polyether segmented polysiloxane softener and its modification on the surface of polyamide/polyurethane fabrics. Furthermore, the style effects of treated fabric were forecasted. The results show that the distribution of polyether segmented polysiloxane and its modification on the fiber is not uniform, a significant "vertical hierarchy" can be observed. It's clear that the inter-molecular entanglement of the softener ensures a better compatibility between polyether segmented polysiloxane and modifier. The blending modification effect is explicited, which has significant correlation with thermal treatment process. Rapid forced cooling for the treated fabric is conducive to the forced intersolubility between segmented polysiloxane and modifier molecules.

      Research on treatment of hemp/jute interlaced fabric with sodium pyrophosphate and compound enzyme
      ZHANG Yi, GAO Jinxia, YU Chongwen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  121-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210310207
      Abstract ( 219 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4273KB) ( 32 )   Save
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      The hemp/jute interlaced fabric is stiff in handle and polluted in alkali boiling chlorine bleaching. It is proposed to combined process with the sodium pyrophosphate and composite enzyme (laccase/acidic xylanase), taking the fabric weight loss ratio, fabric tensile strength(warp direction), bending length and wicking height as evaluation index, the single factor experiments and orthogonal test.Under the above optimal scheme,carried out the infrared spectrum test and performance comparison of the fabrics treated.The optimal process scheme was obtained as follows: the mass concentration of sodium pyrophosphate was 9 g/L, the treatment time was 90 min, the treatment temperature was 80 ℃, the mass concentration of laccase was 7.5 g/L, the mass concentration of acid xylanase was 6.0 g/L, the treatment time was 90 min, and the pH value was 5.0. The results showed that under the optimum solution, the fabric weight loss ratio was 18.26%, fabric tensile strength(warp direction) was 780 N,bending length reduced 24.82%, capillary effect increased 46.4%; the process can achieve the effect of alkali boiling chlorine bleaching (or alkali oxygen one bath), ecological and environmental protection,which has the potential of market development.

      Testing method for permethrin content in cotton fabrics based on use of ultraviolet spectroscopy
      WANG Zongqian, CHENG Lüzhu, JIN Xianhua, XIA Liping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  127-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906906
      Abstract ( 192 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3721KB) ( 64 )   Save
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      To establish a more efficient method for detecting the content of permethrin in textiles, cotton fabrics containing different concentrations of permethrin were fabricated by padding process, and a comparative analysis of the permethrin-finished fabrics was presented in detail, using micromorphology, spectral characteristics and the loading of permethrin, scanning electron microscopy, ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectrometer with integrating sphere and the conventional gas chromatography. Further, the indices such as testing time, sample size and the testing cost were compared and evaluated. A strong absorption characteristic peak at 280 nm was observed, corresponings to the ultraviolet characteristic absorption of permethrin molecules. The value of absorbency is proportional to the loading of permethrin within the as-prepared fabric, which is consistent with the permethrin loading within the same fabric tested by using gas chromatography. The relative error and the value of variation detected by using UV-Vis spectroscopy are similar to the results achieved using gas chromatography. However, the UV-Vis spectroscopy testing method has obvious advantages of high efficiency and low cost.

      An improved AlexNet model for fleece fabric quality inspection
      JIN Shoufeng, HOU Yize, JIAO Hang, ZHNAG Peng, LI Yutao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  133-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210602607
      Abstract ( 197 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (6165KB) ( 34 )   Save
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      The traditional image recognition method is difficult to extract the surface features of the fleece fabrics leading to low recognition accuracy. This study proposed an improved AlexNet model for the quality detection method of the fleece fabrics. The convolutional neural network was used to extract the sample features of the fleece fabric, and the experimental method combining SGDM, RMSProp, Adam optimization algorithm was adopted for the study to investigate effects of changing learning rate and the use of two new learning and transfer learning algorithms in training the fleece fabric image dataset. After the completion of training, different depth pooling layers of the convolutional neural network were employed to extract the features of the fleece fabric samples. The extracted fleece fabric features were fitted to the support vector machine(SVM) classifier to analyze the input fleece fabric image. The experimental results show that the use of the convolutional neural network method can increase the ability of the convolutional layer to extract the surface features of the fleece fabric, and obtain image features with higher resolution. The model trained by the data enhancement and SGDM algorithm can extract the network pool5 layer features. With the SVM classifier, the recognition accuracy enhanced significantly. The quality detection method of fleece fabrics based on the improved AlexNet model can extract the surface features of fleece fabrics with high recognition rate.

      Apparel Engineering
      Prediction method of human skin deformation variables for joint position during exercise
      ZHANG Yaqi, LI Xiaohui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  140-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210605205
      Abstract ( 233 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2234KB) ( 129 )   Save
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      Aiming at the common problems of large workload and complex operation in the measurement method of skin shape variables, the geometric models of main joints of human body are constructed through based on the relationship between human body shape and skin shape variables during joint movement. Mathematical principles were used and calculation equations of skin shape variables of shoulder joint, elbow joint, hip joint and knee joint were established respectively, and they were compared with theresults from using the existing measurement methods. The results show that the skin shape variables mainly depends on the joint circumference, movement angle and body mass index. The average error between the calculated results of skin shape variables of each joint and the actual measurement results is 0.51 cm, and there is no significant difference at the significant level of 0.05, which shows that this method can be used to predict skin shape variables and provide reference for garment structurale design.

      Research on 3-D clothing style based on interactive genetic algorithm
      YANG Xiaobo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  145-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210603706
      Abstract ( 176 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2398KB) ( 55 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the customer satisfaction of 3-D clothing design, this paper presents a clothing style design method based on interactive genetic algorithm. In this research, an interactive genetic template was constructed to facilitate the docking between style components and genetic operation. A clothing style component library wass established to support the genetic operation of three-dimensional clothing components by adopting the coding method based on chromosome pointer. The feasibility of the algorithm proposed in this paper was verified by comparative study of examples. The results show that the interactive genetic template can improve the style component library continuously. Using the encoding method based on chromosome pointer, the genetic manipulation of 3-D clothing components with high complexity can be achieved. In addition, the aesthetics of the proposed algorithm is 18% and 35% higher than that of the traditional genetic algorithm and the two-dimensional slice cutting method, which indicates that the user satisfaction can be rapidly improved through interactive evolution.

      A duo-directional recommendation strategy for order-production oriented to apparel supply chain platforms
      CHEN Qingting, DU Jinsong, LIN Xiang, ZHU Jianlong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  151-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210507606
      Abstract ( 207 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (2727KB) ( 64 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of duo-directional recommendation between multiple production orders of clothing and multiple manufacturers on the clothing supply chain platform, the transaction needs of the ordering party and the manufacturer were analyzed as the first step in this research, followed by the construction of the utility evaluation index structure and preference utility function of both parties. Based on preference ranking, the Gale-Shapley (GS) algorithm strategy is adopted to establish a duo-directional matching model for apparel production orders. Data from 6 ordering companies and 6 manufacturers were used to carry out a duo-directional matching model experiment, which verified the stability and acceptability of the matching results. The expert questionnaire survey shows that the average acceptance rate of the ordering parties reached 94%, and the average acceptance rate of the order receiving parties reached 89%. The results show that the duo-directional matching model based on the order utility evaluation system and the GS strategy can fully reflect the ordering party's transaction needs and the manufacturer's willingness to accept orders. Taking into account the transaction needs of both parties in trading, the matching model, as on the third-party clothing supply chain platform, can effectively improve the accuracy and stability of the matching recommendation results for order allocation and order acceptance.

      Empirical study on Beijing residents' emotion of green consumption of clothing
      NING Jun, SHI Jia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  157-164.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210700208
      Abstract ( 242 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2905KB) ( 84 )   Save
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      In order to explore the relationship among Beijing residents' perceptions, attitudes, intention and behavior of green clothing consumption, and to help achieve the goals of carbon peak and carbon neutrality from the consumer perspective, a survey including clothing green consumption perceptions was conducted based on 1 005 questionnaires, involving structured equations on knowledge, attitude, consumption intention of five green clothing brands(material, producting packaging, transportation, post-sales) and five green clothing consumption behaviors(collection, purchase, use, care, disposal). The results show that consumers' cognition of green clothing consumption significantly affects their consumption attitudes, which in turn influences their intention to consume green clothing brands, and their attitudes to transform green consumption behaviors to a certain extent. The consumption intention of green packaging and post-sales clothing brands consumption intention have a positive and significant impact on consumers' collection, use, care and disposal of clothing green information, but it is difficult to influence green purchasing behavior. The consumption intention of green materials, production and transportation clothing brands does not have a significant impact on consumers' five green clothing consumption behaviors. On this basis, strengthening the government's popular education on green clothing consumption knowledge, promoting the green development of enterprises and actively taking social responsibilities, and guiding consumers to practice a variety of green clothing consumption behaviors will help promote green clothing consumption.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Study on spreading behavior of carbon fiber bundles under different fractal flow path conditions
      NIU Xuejuan, XU Yanhui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  165-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210302006
      Abstract ( 232 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (4403KB) ( 74 )   Save
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      This study focuses on the distribution of flow field inside the airflow spreader and the force on carbon fiber bundles in the flow field under different fractal flow path conditions. The discrete element Method was used to model the spreading behavior of the thousands of filaments in the flow field. The characteristics of the flow field and the motion of the fiber discrete elements were modeled. By comparing the magnitudes of the forces on the fiber discrete elements to the magnitudes of the fluid resistance, equations of motion for the fiber discrete elements were finally established. With the particle tracking module of COMSOL, the fluid-fiber discrete element interaction was simulated numerically by setting the corresponding boundary conditions with the spreading process. The effect of the position of the fractal flow paths on the motion characteristics of the carbon fiber bundle was investigated. The results show that with the increase of the distance between the fractal flow paths, the length of the fiber spreading area in the flow field increases, which is beneficial for fiber spreading. It is found that shortening the distance between the rightmost fractal flow path to the fiber exit and reducing the length of the fiber spreading region help the fiber bundle spreading.

      Influence of performance degradation of spinning frames on yarn quality under dependent competition failure
      SHAO Jingfeng, DONG Mengyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  171-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505709
      Abstract ( 203 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3733KB) ( 41 )   Save
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      This study tackles the difficulties in accurate characterization on the influence of the performance degradation of spinning frames on the yarn quality, and the relationship among quality indexes were studied based on data of cotton spinning production. The performance degradation process of spinning frames was characterized by parameter selection, index establishment and sudden failure process prediction. Wiener process and Weibull distribution were adopted to predict the sudden failure process of the performance of the spinning frame, and a copula function based performance degradation dependent competitive failure model of the spinning frame was constructed. The changes of the key yarn quality indexes before and after the application of the model were compared and analyzed. Through exemplar verification, the results show that the dependent competition failure model is able to predict the influence of the performance degradation of spinning frames on spinning quality. After the application of the model, the coarse knot value was decreased by 10.09%, the hairiness value was decreased by 23.5% and the breaking strength of single yarn was increased by 4.26%.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress and status quo of heat-resistant polylactic acid materials
      LIU Yanlin, GU Weiwen, WEI Jianfei, WANG Wenqing, WANG Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  180-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210104707
      Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (5170KB) ( 123 )   Save
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      Aiming at the low mechanical strength, poor toughness, slow crystallization speed, low crystallinity, and poor heat resistance of polylactic acid products, modification methods and mechanisms for improving the heat resistance of polylactic acid materials were reviewed. The review was concentrated on blending modification involving polymer composite modification and filling modification, chain structure modification encompassing copolymerization modification and crosslinking modification, and crystal modification including additive nucleating agent modification and processing technology modification. The advantages and disadvantages of each modification method were briefly analyzed, and the formation of polylactic acid stereo complex crystals and its influencing factors were introduced and discussed in detail. The development direction and prospect of polylactic acid materials were analyzed and prospected. The rereview revealed that the most popular modification method is to adjust and control the heat resistance of polylactic acid materials through crystal modification and modification of processing conditions.

      Research progress of aerogel materials for thermal protection
      GONG Xuebin, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  187-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210308610
      Abstract ( 495 )   HTML ( 38 )   PDF (7147KB) ( 184 )   Save
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      In order to further strengthen the application of thermal protection performance of aerogel materials in various fields, and to clarify the main research direction of aerogel materials for thermal protection in the future. This article first briefly introduces the definition, structural characteristics, performance and thermal insulation mechanism of aerogels. Secondly, the application of aerogel materials is described, especially in the field of high-speed aircraft and high-temperature protective clothing. Then, the aerogels used for thermal protection are classified according to the raw materials, and the research status of various aerogels are discussed separately. Silica aerogels have been researched for the longest time and the results are relatively mature. There is still a lot of room for improvement in the research of other types of aerogels. Research on the unique advantages and disadvantages of various aerogel materials can be carried out to meet the special needs of various aspects. Finally, it is proposed that the future development trend of aerogel materials should focus on increasing the upper limit of temperature resistance, eliminating the dust problem of materials after high temperature, improving mechanical properties, meeting the needs of integrated insulation and load-bearing protection, and improving the performance of protective clothing insulation Waterproof and moisture permeability, innovative production technology to reduce costs and other aspects.

      Advances on antibacterial textiles
      NAN Qingqing, ZENG Qinghong, YUAN Jingxuan, WANG Xiaoqin, ZHENG Zhaozhu, LI Gang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  197-205.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401509
      Abstract ( 510 )   HTML ( 42 )   PDF (3958KB) ( 227 )   Save
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      In order to solve problems that bacterial resistance of antimicrobial agents, the short duration of antimicrobial activity and the complexity of antibacterial finishing process, the properties of fabrics, the functional characteristics, textile applications and antimicrobial mechanism of organic, inorganic and natural antimicrobial agents were systematically reviewed. At the same time, the advantages and disadvantages of different antibacterial finishing methods, such as impregnation, dip rolling and microencapsulation, were introduced and compared through the various antibacterial finishing treatments for functional yarns and fabrics with different antibacterial agents. Finally, it is predicted that multi-function agents and eco-friendly antibacterial finishing technologies will be developed in the future, so that antibacterial functional textiles can be developed in the direction of eco-friendly processing, low development costs, effective performance and comfortable wearing.

      Application progress in cold protective clothing based on multiple intelligent technologies
      MA Liang, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(06):  206-214.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303109
      Abstract ( 297 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (5331KB) ( 146 )   Save
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      Cold protective clothing needs to improve the functionality so as to better meet the thermal physiological requirements to protect various parts of human body. To improve the application of electronic, communication and computer technologies in cold protective clothing, this review article focuses on four types of technical issues to explore the difficulties and constraints of its application based on the development process of cold protective clothing. The review includes dynamic signal acquisition and transmission, application limitations of heating elements, design patterns of temperature control algorithms, and application of human physiological models. It was found that the monitoring and transmission functions of signals have low integration in cold protective clothing, the layout of the heating unit has no solid theoretical support, the design of the temperature control algorithm lacks a mechanism analysis of the physiological needs, and the application of the human body thermal physiological model has many limitations. The review indicates that it is necessary to develop a non-uniform intelligent temperature-control cold protective clothing with high functional integration, which can meet the thermal and physiological needs of different groups, and to build a complete performance evaluation system in future research.